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Beinn Damh has been at the top of my list since seeing Anne C's crystal clear photos taken on the 'mountain of the stag'. But I've had my eye on it longer than that - since seeing its shapely reflection in Loch Torridon when I climbed Beinn Alligin in 2011.
Maol Chean-dearg and Beinn Damh reflected in Loch Torridon
So when our plan to climb Carn Mor Dearg was scuppered by a bike race we headed for Beinn Damh instead.
We parked by the Torridon Inn and followed the sign for the hill path, which soon crosses the main road and climbs steeply through majestic old Scots Pines. This Corbett is only 12 metres short of Munro height but starting at sea level it feels more like a Munro to climb than a lot of Munros do. I also think it would have a more celebrated status if it wasn't just across the way from the big Torridon three: Alligin, Liathach and Eighe.
Good path through woods
The path follows the west side of the Allt Coire Roill which can be heard below and at the head of the gorge makes a spectacular 30m plunge over a sandstone cliff. Just beyond the waterfall, at the edge of the woods, the path divides, the right fork climbing SW into the corrie of Toll Ban.
Moira and Beinn Alligin framed by Scots Pines
Where path divides
Path leading to Beinn Damh's ridge
Parts of the path are badly eroded as it nears the ridge
Cairn marking where path meets ridge
Once we reached the cairn the gradient eased and we took a left turn SE along the ridge on an initially good path, skirting the stony north peak and onto a section of quartzite boulders where it became less distinct. A helpful succession of cairns have been built indicating the best line over the boulders to the low point on the ridge which lies south of the northern top.
Loch Damh, distant Loch Carron and Beinn Bhan
Turning west along the ridge leads to Sgurr na Bana Mhoraire
The ridge narrows quite dramatically and gives excellent views of Beinn Damh's cliffs, NE to Torridon and SE into the Coulin Forest.
Beinn Damh's cliffs
Sheer drop into Toll nam Biast (steeper than it looks!)
Rocky going to the summit
There was a point on the path traversing the side of the ridge I became aware of the exposure and decided this would not be a good place to trip or have a stumble! While ruminating on the logistics of my precarious situation I was also aware of the persistent sound of an animal that sounded distressed - or at least agitated if not distressed. I took it to be a sheep although it wasn't quite your standard domesticated sheep baa - a bit more harsh and manic - not that I'm an expert on ovine vocals!
Then I saw them. Two goats and a kid who stood and eyed me as if in disbelief anyone other than them should have stumbled into their habitat. And stumble is an apt word here as compared with their nimbleness on that steep rocky terrain, stumbling is what I was doing. The pyschological moment passed, they broke their gaze and disappeared fast down steep scree and I didn't see or hear from them again.
Goats with kid
The summit cairn of Spidean Coir'an Laoigh sits on the brink of a very steep east facing corrie, commanding panoramic views SE to the Coulin Forest and north to the giants of Torridon.
Summit cairn
Zoomed to Beinn Liath Mhor and Sgorr Ruadh
Maol Chean-dearg and Ruadh-stac
Maol Chean-dearg will always be special as it was my first Torridon peak, climbed with Andrew and James a few weeks after moving north in 2001. I'll always be indebted to Andrew for introducing me to these wonderful hills which have drawn me back again and again since that first climb.
Moira at summit
We sat for a while drinking coffee and eating pieces, absorbing the grandeur of the place until my need to get back early and the fact the ascent took longer than expected made me want to get going. I was feeling uncharacteristically twitchy, perhaps because of the time and also that moment of feeling exposed on the way up. I guess it does no harm to have these moments to focus ones mind on the need to be careful. I don't know exactly where it was Kath lost her life but I know it was somewhere on a hill we could see and not far from where we were walking. I often think of her.
Rocky descent
We made better time on the way down and once in sight of Sgurr na Bana Mhoraire I could see the right fork in the path heading for the path off the ridge, so when I reached the fork I took it. I assumed it was a short cut, but Moira wasn't convinced. Whether it was quicker or not I don't know but from above it looked like it should have been.
Right fork in path
View of Loch Torridon and out to sea
This shows difference in colour of rock that makes up Liathach and Beinn Eighe
Village of Torridon strung along the foot of Liathach
For us Beinn Damh lived up to its glowing WH reputation - even if we met goats instead of stags. It's a rugged hill of character and completely worthy of being up there with the big boys of Torridon, if a little shorter in stature.
