

Despite the hurricane force winds trying to blow me off the road (I exaggerate only a little


I also had to stop along the beautiful Loch Maree for a view of the mighty Slioch


Arriving at my destination near Laide, I enjoyed a relaxing evening and hit the hay.

Monday 8th August
The new day arrived and brought with it some wonderful sunshine. However the winds were still pretty insane.
I made a quick wee stop at a previous haunt for a photo…



…before meeting up with Keith; we decided to walk to Loch na Sealag for some tremendous views of An Teallach and the Fisherfield corbetts. This was an 11 mile walk, and although it was on a good track the whole way, it would be the biggest I had done in a while and a good test for my knee, the current bane of my life...


We met at the parking place and set off down the track. As all the water in existence had fallen from the sky overnight, there was a lot of puddle hopping, but no disasters.
The walk itself was straightforward but the views were sensational





I headed for Ullapool as I was starving after the most exercise I'd had in some time. The obligatory photo stops along the way…



Stopping for a photo of the Fannichs, I turned round and was treated to this


And a rainbow in Ullapool

Coming out of a pub after a delicious Mac n cheese at about 8.30 I could see the tell-tale glow signifying the beginnings of a spectacular sunset. Jumping in the car and driving like a bat out of Ullapool I chased the sunset all the way to Assynt where it set in between Cul Beag and Cul Mor. Perfection.










Now on the hunt for a camp spot, I set myself up at the base of Knockan Crags as the dusk light set in.

It was then that I had another one of my 'great ideas'....grabbing my camera, I headed up the path to the top of the crags to see how the new camera fared at nighttime photography. I think the results are, in the immortal words of Laconic Surf, "not sh*te"






Tuesday 9th August
After the excitement of waking up in Assynt, I waved goodbye for Polly (for now) and headed up the road to Durness, with a few photo stops along the way.

Some wild waves

The first point of call was the Smoo caves which were pretty cavey…

…followed by a few more photo stops before heading towards the car park for Faraid head.


For reasons best known to myself, I decided this was the best time to de-clutter the boot of my car by attaching my pannier rack to the bike...a lot of fiddling around later I finally got round to packing my bag with all my camping gear and heading along the road...

I got some funny looks walking along a beach with the kitchen sink on my back, but I knew what I was doing


Spotted the perfect spot…


I surveyed my spot with a smile on my face before battling the wind to put the tent up and then settling down in the sun to eat strawberries and see what the evening might bring.








A Jaxter special


Posing a la Dooterbang, a la Mountainstar






Fun with glowsticks and long exposure


And one of the sunrise the next morning…

Cape Wrath, a tale of two bothies
Wednesday 10th August
On my way back to the car, I bumped into a man taking a photo, and in a manner quite unlike myself (



Continuing to Durness, I stopped for a quick freshen up and a paper. The cheapest and most flammable appeared to be the Daily Star. Possibly the best use for it, as I discovered later

It was time to head for the ferry and I packed my bag in the rain before heading to the jetty, where it alternated rain with midges as I chatted to anyone around me. "It'll make it more atmospheric" I said. Less waterproofed people laughed nervously...


Unfortunately only 32 people could fit on the minibus... I was number 37


So as 32 people got onto the minibuses and headed for Cape Wrath, I shouldered my stuffed rucksack and my bag of coal and headed up the road. To say that everyone else thought I was nuts would be an understatement...



On the way along the road, I met a couple walking back who gifted me a cereal bar when they heard my plan - very kind of them as I would be pushing it for rations for the extra day



Shortly before the turning to the Bothy, the minibuses passed me on their way back. I waved happily at the warm dry people and they waved back. Jaxter the hero



I had a wee explore, before settling down with the map to plan tomorrow's movements, a book, the crossword from the paper and then dinner. I then (appropriately) burnt the paper


Thursday 11th August
As this was going to be a tough day over difficult terrain which would be testing for an already slightly sore dodgy knee, I had made the decision to leave Cape Wrath itself for another day as it would add around 8km onto my day. It's only a light house after all....


Not knowing anything about the terrain other than what the map said, I had plotted a route that was fairly direct but using as many landmarks as possible as the forecast was not good. My navigation skills would be severely tested and I only hoped that they were up to the task, especially as I was pretty sure no-one knew my plans other than a vague "heading to cape wrath"...


I had had a good sleep and felt ready to face the challenges of the new day as I had a very scant breakfast. It was pure pelting it doon with rain as I left, but I cheerfully headed back up to the track before taking a bearing across the bleak, wet moorland. Compass in hand, I battled against the rain and the wind across streams, through bog and peat hags and generally upwards. Stopping to check my trusty Etrex 10 I ascertained my location - absolutely spot on! Bingo!


It was here that I suspect overconfidence got me, or perhaps I just made a mistake, but well before my next checkpoint something felt wrong...checking, it seemed I had gone in a circle...


Arriving at said river, I had a bad feeling. It was an absolute torrent of water


Making sure that everything important was in dry bags, I walked into the river. It was strong and fast moving. Too far in to change my mind now, I continued



I hung all my wet things up in front of the fire and started to warm up. We were joined briefly by 3 more walkers from the south but the river had dropped and they decided to continue to Kervaig. I hope you got there ok guys! The remaining 4 of us spent a very enjoyable afternoon and evening in Strathchailleach (the haunted Bothy!) eating, laughing, feeding the fire and learning that if you put a toilet paper wick into a tin of sunflower oil tuna it makes a cracking candle


Friday 12th August
Waking up after a great sleep, Ant and I packed our things, tidied and swept the Bothy and then realised that we had run out of reasons not to get going....


The B*astard river, now dropped

I saw Ant across the river unscathed (except for the loss of one flip flop


The next river crossing I knew was possible having watched Steve (Yorjick) do it in his bare feet, but it was much higher today. Carefully selecting my route, I headed across slowly and carefully, coming out the other side unscathed and no wetter than I was already

The hard bit now done, I headed along the beach and picked up the path out towards Blairmore.

I met a few people coming in, one on the CW trail heading from Strathchailleach so I was able to enlighten him on river crossings, and others heading for the beach. I probably looked a fright so wasn't offended that the beach brigade weren't too chatty

Starting to brighten up a wee bit



Reaching Blairmore I headed along the road, hoping for a lift. Getting enough signal, I phoned my brother; "happy birthday...I think...is it Friday today?" He though I was nuts until I explained I'd been in the wild for days...



Finally at my car, I was able to change into dry shoes at last! Heading for Durness I had a sneaky wee shower at the campsite (there was no one around otherwise I would have happily paid) before heading for the chocolate shop for a well earned drink and flapjack for lunch/breakfast. Yum!!
I was heading back to my beloved Assynt for the final 2 days, so I headed down the road in search of the perfect camp spot.
Assynt, I’m back!





I found such a bonnie spot with one downside - the rampant midges....


Saturday 13th August
Despite my early night, I managed to sleep late (ish) and once awake enjoyed a lazy morning finishing off the strawberries and my book with hot chocolate. It was very cosy, and I wasn't hugely enthusiastic about moving, despite the rain stopping and the midges being replaced by a light breeze (yass). The visibility was non existent and Polly did not want to be seen...


Eventually I packed my things and headed to Lochinver to refuel Blondie and also myself. The pie shop was up to the usual high standard and I had a delicious lunch of pork, chorizo and manchego pie. After the absence of proper dinner (through sheer laziness) the night before it was doubly welcome!!

Re-packing my rucksack with Bothy stuff, I drove a few miles round to the Glencanisp lodge car park where I set off for my target - Suileag Bothy.

Suilven itself remained elusive throughout the walk and the rain was coming on and off, it was a very pleasant walk to the Bothy. As I arrived I got a lovely treat - an almost view of Suilven!!



I had a flick through the bothy book and found an entry from a certain Mountainstar

Sunday 14th August
I woke after a cracking sleep and made my way back to the car. Hoping for a shower I headed for the Lochinver leisure centre only to find that they are closed on Sundays! New plan: I was planning to have pie for lunch but at 11am it was too early even for me, so I headed to Achmelvich beach for a bit of chill time overlooking the sea to enjoy (what I thought was) the last day of my holiday.....


However....regaining signal I received a message from Doots saying he was heading for Strathfarrar tomorrow if I was still around.... This was one of those moments where the answer should probably have been no




Next stop, Lochinver. Pies for lunch and pies to take home. Relieved that I had my cool box with me, I stocked it full of pie and headed down the road, taking a leisurely tour along the coast and down to Glen Strathfarrar.




Someone hilarious had put googley eyes on some of the road signs


I finally found myself a camp spot (just inside the gate by the river), snapped this sunset and went to sleep to await the arrival of Dooterbang in the morning.


Monday 15th August
The stars were out overnight meaning it was very cold, but it did bode well for the blue sky day I’d been promised. The news that Andy Murray had won the gold medal added to my good mood



Released into the glen, we dodged pot-holes down to the end point, where we left one car, picked up new friend Mike who was planning to cycle (




I knew that I needed to be very careful with my knee if I was to make it around without a serious amount of pain, but we battered on through a lot of bog and finally made it to the first summit.

I’m sure Doots will write his own award-winning report for this, so I’ll just share some photos of the fabulous views of previous conquests Torridon and Monar, and even Big Ben Nevis was clear!








We arrived back at my car and went for a wee sunbathe and a dip in the river to enjoy the beautiful weather and scenery before heading to Beauly for an ice-cream and then the long drive home. Other than a few niggles, my knee stood up to this test pretty well, but the next few days will tell more….



The sun was setting as I drove over the Drumochter pass and the colours in the sky were unbelievable.

A wonderful end to an amazing holiday!!

