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The Stob Ban and Mullach nan Coirean circuit

The Stob Ban and Mullach nan Coirean circuit

Postby Barnety2000 » Sun Aug 15, 2010 10:22 pm

Route description: Stob Ban (Mamores) and Mullach nan Coirean

Munros included on this walk: Mullach nan Coirean, Stob Bàn (Mamores)

Date walked: 10/07/2010

Time taken: 8 hours

Distance: 13 km

Ascent: 1100m

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The Stob Ban and Mullach nan Coirean circuit
These two Munros lie at the western end of the Mamores, a magnificent mountain range that stretches along the southern side of Glen Nevis. This walk takes in two ridges: the East Ridge of Stob Ban and the long ridge connecting Stob Ban with Mullach nan Coirean, both part of the main “Mamore Ridge”. The former is steep and involves some easy scrambling towards the top and a sense of exposure, whereas the latter is a fine stroll along solid granite with a short section of easy scrambling and fine views down Glen Nevis and towards Kinlochleven and Loch Linnhe. The time taken indicated here is based on walking at a moderate pace, with fairly frequent breaks to admire the views. Here is my walk report from 10/07/2010:

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Achriabhach to Coire a’ Mhusgain
Dull grey brooding skies hung over the Mamores as we parked the car at Achriabhach on this Saturday morning, and walked the short distance up the road to the Lower Falls of Glen Nevis. After heavy rain during the previous day had stunted our progress on the West Highland Way, the forecast for more rain later on did not bode well. Nonetheless, the cloud base was well above the summits of the Mamores, with only the highest summits of the Nevis Range shrouded in a veil of grey. A quick glance at the rainfall radar on my mobile, thanks to a trusty WAP connection in lower Glen Nevis, revealed that in fact there was no rain in the immediate vicinity, and that the rain was some distance to our SE and didn’t appear to be moving at any great pace.
The three of us (my father, mother and myself) started off up the path just to the right (west) of the Lower Falls. The pace at this point was dictated by my father, who had suffered from problems with his knees for a number of years and now required the use of walking sticks (especially for the descent). An eager walking party passed us, enquiring as to where we were headed. At this point, we didn’t have a concrete plan (time and weather dependant), as this was originally intended to be a family walk up along the Allt Coire a’ Mhusgain to see how far we could get, as this was unknown territory to each of us. However with the increasing likelihood of a dry day ahead, plans had been mooted to do the circular walk over Stob Ban to Mullach nan Coirean. This would inevitably involve leaving my father behind however, as whilst still having the stamina, the stiffness in the knees (and also the shoulder) during the summer of 2010 sadly curtailed his chance of conquering any Munros on this visit. Only 4-5 years ago, we were all pictured at the summit of Carn Mor Dearg in clear weather by a couple of Glaswegians, even contemplating attempting the CMD arête. A picture that now holds pride of place in the kitchen at home, but sadly a feat that was not possible to emulate this year.
The walking party suggested that the East Ridge up to Stob Ban would cause no problems and was a fine route to the summit of the pointed white quartzite peak. They then headed off without indication of their intended route, however as they progressed uphill and veered off to the left, it became obvious that they were heading up the steep southwestern flanks of Sgurr a’ Mhaim and probably onward across the Devil’s Ridge and the Ring of Steall.
We carried on up into the increasingly tight confines of Coire a’ Mhusgain, ascending progressively higher above the grassy meadows of lower Glen Nevis. The path contours high above the Allt Coire a’ Mhusgain, clinging to the steep yet grassy southwestern slopes of Sgurr a’ Mhaim. After some time we came to a wooden gate, passed through and stopped for a break. The time was past 11am and we had to make a decision there and then whether to go for the full walk, thus leaving my father behind at this point. Another quick glance at the rainfall radar on my mobile showed that the rain had not moved any closer, in fact it had disintegrated to some degree and moved further away. So much for the day of persistent heavy rain and risk of thunder as indicated by the forecast at Nevisport on the previous day, no doubt a classic example of how fickle the weather can be in mountainous Lochaber. With faint holes of brightness attempting to punch through the leaden grey sky, and the cloud base still high above the neighbouring summits, we decided to go for it. After a packet of crisps, a few sips of Irn Bru and some fresh mountain spring, my mum and I were off up the path at a fast pace eager to gain our first Munro of the holiday, and bag Stob Ban by a different route up. We had already climbed Mullach nan Coirean and Stob Ban the previous year, however in reverse order, climbing the Mullach first, and then descending down Stob Ban’s steep and narrow North Ridge. My dad meanwhile would take his time descending back through the valley of the Allt Coire a’ Mhusgain, before meeting us back at Achriabhach later in the day.
The middle section of Coire a’ Mhusgain is a delight, another hanging glacially-scoured U-shaped valley, which once supported a small mountain glacier ~10,000 years ago. This small glacier would have carved its way down to a large valley glacier filling the bulk of Glen Nevis, much like the confluence between the Allt Coire a’ Mhusgain and the River Nevis today. The erosion and transport of fine rock flour downslope by the slow erosive action of the glaciers would have culminated in eventual deposition across Glen Nevis, creating the fertile Glen that we know today.
Crooked and stunted trees cling to the steep yet grassy western slopes of Sgurr a’ Mhaim, who’s immense bulk fills the view to the east.
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Stunted trees cling to the steep western slopes of Sgurr a' Mhaim, through the middle section of the Allt Coire a' Mhusgain Valley
The slopes plunge to a narrow gorge, through which the Allt Coire a’ Mhusgain flows in a series of cascades and waterfalls. Meanwhile across the western side, the impossibly steep and grassy eastern slopes of Stob Ban’s North Ridge block you in, conjuring a distinct feeling of claustrophobia. Yet, as you progress up the valley, your eventual target comes into view, as the tiny twin pointed summits of Stob Ban rise majestically high above to your SW, the southernmost being the highest. Large crags abut onto the summit cairn and hang precariously off the eastern face, steep scree rivulets cascading down the intervening gullies, no doubt holding snow well into Spring.
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The pointed summits of Stob Ban from high up in Coire a' Mhusgain
Beyond this, filling your view to the south is the watershed of the Allt Coire a’ Mhusgain, a level grassy ridge at the head of the valley, soaring to increasingly steep and scree-covered slopes up the East Ridge of Stob Ban. To the SE, the pinnacled crest of the Devil’s Ridge runs parallel, yet high above you, to the summit of Sgurr an Iubhair on the main spine of the Mamore Ridge, sadly demoted from Munro status in 1991.
To our disappointment, a grey mist had slowly descended onto Sgurr a’ Mhaim whilst the summit had been out of view, and steep scree shoots guarding the upper slopes disappeared upward into a grey void. The wind was gentle, the temperature was mild and the air was humid, no doubt perfect weather for midges, which were probably out in their hoards in the low altitude valleys below. A fine drizzle began to fall, however this did little to dampen our spirits.
Several tributaries draining the steep slopes of Sgurr a’ Mhaim and the Devil’s Ridge must be forded en route, some of which form impressive cascades as they tumble down the subvertical slopes in a series of terraces.
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Several streams draining the western slopes of Sgurr a' Mhaim and the Devil's Ridge have to be circumvented en route
Ferns and mosses are abundant in the damp and shady ravines at the base of these falls.
We kept right on an increasingly rough path along the river, which suddenly came to an abrupt stop at cliffs along the Allt Coire a’ Mhusgain itself. This was no doubt the former path up the valley prior to being obliterated by the ongoing erosive action of wind and water, which all too frequently batter this wild mountainous terrain. Annoyingly, I had put my trusty waterproof map in my Dad’s rucksack, so we were mapless. However I remembered seeing a junction a few hundred metres back, where a path had climbed steeply away to the left. I assumed at the time of passing, that this path was ascending up towards the summit of Sgurr a’ Mhaim or maybe the Devil’s Ridge. However, in hindsight we should probably have taken that path. It is also worth pointing out that this is the last place to refill the water bottles before the high altitude ridge walking commences ahead.
Turning to the left, we climbed up the relentlessly steep, grassy and mossy slopes looking for an alternative route towards the bealach at the head of the valley. After at least 50 metres of ascent, we came across a well-worn path contouring along the hillside, high above the Allt Coire a’ Mhusgain. The path headed in the right direction (towards the south), which was good enough for us, and was probably the path that had veered off left at the junction earlier.
The valley sides become increasingly steep and close in on you higher up, as roaring waterfalls along the Allt Coire a’ Mhusgain become ever more frequent.
Scotland 2010 029.JPG
Higher up in Coire a' Mhusgain, the valley sides become steeper and waterfalls along the Allt Coire a' Mhusgain more frequent...
The path progressively climbs to the head of the valley, full of wild untamed and undulating topography, the site of the former head of the mountain glacier ~10,000 years ago. The route then climbs in a couple of wide zigzags across peaty terrain to attain the bealach at the head of the valley between Sgurr an Iubhair and Stob Ban. The craggy east face of Stob Ban towers straight ahead to your west, the complex tangle of pale quartzite crags, buttresses and scree shoots commanding an air of superiority over your lowly position at the bealach some distance beneath the mountain. Looking to the north, you can look along the line of lower Glen Nevis, occupied by grassy meadows, deciduous and coniferous forest, to the right of which increasingly steep slopes rise to the summits of Meall an t-Suidhe and Ben Nevis.
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Looking down Glen Nevis from the peaty bealach between Sgurr an Iubhair and Stob Ban
To the south, the well-walked and well-built track of the West Highland Way runs almost as straight as a Roman Road along the northern bank of the Allt Nathrach towards Kinlochleven and the longitudinal water body of Loch Leven.

The East Ridge of Stob Ban to the summit (999m)
Turn due west and follow the peaty slopes up towards the East Ridge of Stob Ban. At this point, we met a couple who had been having a peaceful lunch below the towering east face of Stob Ban, enjoying the tranquil view south to the mountains of Glencoe. They informed us that they had not attempted the East Ridge, as it looking desperately steep and rocky, but that did not deter us one bit. By this point, banks of cloud had intermittently started to drift in across the summit of Stob Ban and we paused as the cloud lowered over the highest summit and then the lower northern summit of the mountain. Cloud hugged the Glencoe mountains to the south as well, the steep scree-ridden lower slopes rising straight up abruptly into a grey nothingness at the same elevation on each mountain. A cool but gentle easterly breeze started to pick up as we climbed to the start of the exposed East Ridge.
Scotland 2010 041.JPG
The East Ridge of Stob Ban, rising up to the cloud-covered summit

The East Ridge quickly turns steep and becomes increasingly narrow and rocky towards the top. Steep but not vertical grassy and boulder-strewn slopes lie to the left (south) whilst the ridge falls away in a series of subvertical crags and corries to the right (north) into the heart of upper Coire a’ Mhusgain. Therefore it is important to never stray to the north of the ridge crest. Higher up the ridge becomes more vertigo inducing, as a section of relatively exposed scrambling is involved to keep to the crest, or loose scree paths can be traversed which wind around the southern side.
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Higher up on the East Ridge, the crest becomes increasingly rocky with abundant quartzite scree
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The East Ridge narrows to a shattered rocky crest towards the top, with a loose scree path on the southern side
This was not a problem for me, however my mother found it a little unnerving climbing steeply on loose scree with a steep drop down to the West Highland Way far below to the south. There are far easier ways down to the Allt Nathrach on foot from the bealach below, rather than tumbling head over heal down the steep mountainside. Many of the angular quartzite boulders are also quite sharp, and a fall on these would certainly cause some discomfort. This is the final section of the East Ridge however, and in no time, you are climbing the finishing step to the summit, which you arrive at from the south.
The summit of Stob Ban is a fine viewpoint, nowhere near as pointed when you are up there as compared to when you view the peak from distance. The summit area consists of boggy, grassy and peaty terrain, with scattered quartzite boulders dotted over the summit area and clustered around the summit cairn and slopes guarding the summit. Low cloud kept flirting with the top of Stob Ban, slowly drifting in from the vicinity of Sgurr an Iubhair to the east, accompanied by a gentle, cool and moist easterly breeze, before lifting again to reveal the spacious views.
The summit offers fine views to the east down the tortuous shattered quartzite crest of the East Ridge to the subvertical craggy and scree-covered western wall of Sgurr an Iubhair. Immediately beneath these steep slopes, the small and isolated Lochan Coire nam Miseach nestles into the grassy contours high above the head of Coire a’ Mhusgain.
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The East Ridge, bealach, Lochan Coire nam Miseach, Sgurr an Iubhair and the Devil's Ridge from the summit of Stob Ban
The jagged crest of the Devil’s Ridge makes it’s way painfully north to the scree-covered summit of Sgurr a’ Mhaim, beyond which the stupendously steep southern slopes of Ben Nevis rise high above serene and tranquil Glen Nevis to the vast summit plateau. To the south, the West Highland Way runs like a tramline straight towards the small village of Kinlochleven, now just coming into view, at the far end of the linear Loch Leven.
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The West Highland Way and Loch Leven from the summit of Stob Ban
The Glencoe mountains form a stunning backdrop behind, leading out eastward to the heathery, boggy and Loch-ridden wastes of Rannoch Moor. To the west, our onward route becomes apparent. Initially heading north to descend over Stob Ban’s subsidiary quartzite Top, then following the undulating granite ridge that curves easily around the head of the hanging valley of the Allt a’ Choire Dheirg, traversing a number of unnamed tops, to the grassy slopes and rounded summit of Mullach nan Coirean.
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The onward route from Stob Ban over the predominantly granite ridge to Mullach nan Coirean, and the subsidiary white unnamed quartzite peak

The ridge to Mullach nan Coirean (939m)
Descend south from the summit of Stob Ban on a relatively steep gradient across quartzite scree. Again the angular blocks have many sharp and pointed surfaces, so care should be taken not to slip up on these. Subvertical gullies and scree shoots are embedded into the craggy east face of the mountain, and abut the summit ridge immediately to the east. Therefore care should be taken not to venture to the east of the summit ridge in poor visibility or snow. Staring down these gullies, you can see your route up through the tranquil valley of the Allt Coire a’ Mhusgain many dizzying hundreds of metres below.
Scotland 2010 069.JPG
Looking down one of the steep scree shoots cutting into the east face of Stob Ban, Coire a' Mhusgain and the route up can be seen far below...
The subsidiary lower northern summit of Stob Ban is reached, still on the sharp angular quartzite boulders, the ridge almost reaching a level gradient at this point and projecting to the NNE.
Scotland 2010 068.JPG
The subsidiary northern Top of Stob Ban, and the grassy North Ridge leading down towards Glen Nevis
Continue to descend, veering a little to the left (west) towards the base of this second descent to pick up a well-worn small path that contours westward along the grassy southern slopes of the ridge to Mullach nan Coirean, before picking up the ridge crest once the North Ridge of Stob Ban has been passed. The rock has now changed to solid smooth blocks of red granite, and this reliable igneous rock will be beneath your feet for much of the remainder of the walk. Descend to a small low point on the ridge, then climb over a pleasant mixture of solid weathered granite blocks and patchy rough vegetation to a small unnamed Top composed of the same pale angular quartzite blocks as Stob Ban. This unnamed little white peak stands out clearly from the remainder of the red granite ridge towards Mullach nan Coirean, the white quartzite appearing like a persistent cover of residual winter snow clinging to the summit cairn at first sight. From this peak, a fine profile of the North Ridge of Stob Ban is attained, the subsidiary summits descending progressively towards the north. The first two summits are coated in the infamous angular quartzite scree, however the lower summits become increasingly grassy and vegetated, connected by narrow grassy ridges and steeper smooth rock faces.
Scotland 2010 075.JPG
The granite ridge back towards Stob Ban and Stob Ban's North Ridge from the white unnamed quartzite peak, with the cloud-covered Sgurr a' Mhaim Massif behind
Stob Ban itself appears almost as impressive from the west as from the east, the clinging quartzite buttresses and crags may be absent, but stupendously steep scree-covered slopes plunge hundreds of feet south and west toward the valley of the Allt Nathrach far below, the pale white quartzite appearing like a thick coat of snow, especially when lit by a ray of sunlight. Beyond, the immense mass of the Sgurr a’ Mhaim Massif fills the view, capped in a passive grey veil of persistent cloud on this particular day. Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe, nicknamed the “Halfway Lochan”, nestles into the high boggy bealach between Meall an t-Suidhe and Ben Nevis, the loch reflecting the brooding pale grey of the overhead sky.
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Glen Nevis, Meall an t-Suidhe and Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe from the unnamed white quartzite peak
Immediately below, the Allt a’ Choire Dheirg crashes in a series of torrents and cascades down towards a confluence with the River Nevis in the tranquil glen far below, before winding away north then west towards Loch Linnhe and the North Atlantic.
Continue on westward over the granite ridge, much of the crest involving easy walking over patchy vegetation and solid smooth blocks of intensely weathered granite. There are a few sections where easy scrambling is required to keep to the crest, but these are few and far between. In these cases, a faint scree path contours along the southern side of the crest removing the exposure.
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The summit of Stob Ban from the granite ridge to Mullach nan Coirean, with the section of easy scrambling along the ridge illustrated
Steep slopes fall away in a series of granite crags to the north, revealing numerous remote lochans suspended in boggy depressions high above the valley of the Allt a’ Choire Dheirg, small streams issuing from the water bodies and plunging down the subvertical granite slopes to the Allt a’ Choire Dheirg far below.
Scotland 2010 085.JPG
Granite crags abut the steep north face of the ridge to Mullach nan Coirean
Low cloud started to descend onto the ridge as we progressed on towards Mullach nan Coirean, with the blue shimmering waters of Loch Linnhe making a cameo appearance during a temporary lifting of the cloud, the loch reflecting the blue skies above the Scottish west coast away from the high mountain summits.
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Loch Linnhe makes a cameo appearance through the clouds

The ridge becomes wider, and the terrain increasingly peaty and boggy as the SE Top of Mullach nan Coirean is reached (917m).
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The summit of Mullach nan Coirean appears through the clouds from near the grassy Mullach's SE Top
We discovered to our amazement swarms of large tadpoles swimming in several small ponds carved into the rich peaty ground in early July. No doubt, the cold temperatures at such a high altitude have delayed the Spring and Summer seasons up here, but it is hard to see how the tadpoles will manage to mature before the snows and freezing temperatures return to haunt this high ridge once more during the Autumn months.
At this point, the cloud completely closed in and an eerie silence descended, as we continued to follow the ridge to the low point and then up the final relatively steep climb to the summit of Mullach nan Coirean over scattered small granite blocks. Some nice quartz veins are preserved in the granite on this part of Mullach nan Coirean, similar to those found on the northern side of Carn Mor Dearg, and are well worth taking home as a souvenir of the walk, or as an ornamental rock feature for the garden. The cloud started to lift again as we arrived at the large granite summit cairn to allow intermittent fine views down Loch Linnhe to the distant sea, no longer sparkling in pleasant July sunshine as high cloud was thickening all the while, a sure sign of the belated approaching rainstorm.

The descent from Mullach nan Coirean and back to Achriabhach
We hurriedly started our descent down the NE granite ridge of Mullach nan Coirean, which forms the NW side of the valley of the Allt a’ Choire Dheirg and the watershed between the Allt a’ Choire Dheirg and Allt a’ Choire Riabhaich. The descent is initially relatively steep over granite boulders and scree along a relatively narrow ridge, guarded to the right (south) by subvertical granite cliffs and crags, which plunge into the head of the Allt a’ Choire Dheirg.
Scotland 2010 092.JPG
Descending the top of the narrow rocky NE ridge of Mullach nan Coirean
Further down, the ridge widens and becomes increasingly grassy as the gradient slackens. By this point, visibility was decreasing towards the Aonachs and the eastern Mamores as increasingly dark grey skies slid in from the east, a sure sign of imminent rain, and a few minutes later the first few spots of rain were felt.
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Heading down the wider and grassier lower part of the Mullach's NE ridge, with the first signs of rain approaching from the east

Follow the line of the ridge as a fence joins you on the (right) south side, before the ridge swings to the NNE and a very rough stony path starts to descend very steeply down heathery and bouldery terrain. (An alternative descent route to the one I describe here involves descending very steeply adjacent to where the wire fence first joins the Mullach’s NE ridge into the valley of the Allt a’ Choire Dheirg. Then follow a boggy path through dense coniferous woodland and past several impressive waterfalls to gain the track through the forest just above Achriabhach. However this route is much harder to follow compared to the one I describe here.)
Descend very steeply NNE along the extremely eroded and rough path. It is possible to cling to the wire fence on the right-hand side and clamber along using this to avoid the steepest sections. Either way, this is very hard on the knees after the long walk. Follow the line of the wire fence down to the base of the steep slope and EXTREMELY boggy terrane, as all the water draining the NE face of Mullach nan Coirean accumulates on the slack gradient. Inch your way carefully through the waterlogged ground to reach a large stile, cross the fence and continue on the rough path also over EXTREMELY boggy and peaty terrain. Thankfully a dense, dark coniferous forest is soon reached and a faint path winds through the trees over a thick dry bed of pine needles. This was not only a comfort from below, but also the dense pine thicket provided us with some shelter from above, as the rain was now starting to set in and turn heavy and persistent. A freshening easterly wind was also becoming increasingly noticeable, driving the rain hard into the NE face of Mullach nan Coirean. We had made it off the mountainside just in time.
Continue downhill through the pine trees. The faint path can be hard to follow, but as long as you keep the Allt a’ Choire Riabhaich within hearing distance to your left, within a few minutes you will emerge at a wide forest track. Turn right and follow this track as it zigzags and slowly heads downhill at an easy gradient through predominantly thick coniferous forest. Be careful to bear left at the first junction, then sharply right at the second junction, to emerge through a wooden gate back to the car park at Achriabhach in lower Glen Nevis.
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Re: The Stob Ban and Mullach nan Coirean circuit

Postby Graeme D » Sun Aug 15, 2010 10:36 pm

A wonderfully detailed and thorough piece of reporting there Barnety2000. Nice one. 8)
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Re: The Stob Ban and Mullach nan Coirean circuit

Postby monty » Mon Aug 16, 2010 10:21 pm

Incredible detail Barnety. I done this walk with Kevsbald last year. We went up through the dense forest and up the steep side to the fence :lol: It wasn't fun. nice pictures. shame about the mist. :D

Re: The Stob Ban and Mullach nan Coirean circuit

Postby Barnety2000 » Mon Aug 16, 2010 10:45 pm

Thanks guys- yes this was actually one of the better days of my holiday up there in July- at least it didn't rain until the end of the day!

I did the route up through the forest then the fence the first time I went up the mountain, but I did it by mistake! That slog up by the fence is murder! Defintely not doing that again.....:)
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Re: The Stob Ban and Mullach nan Coirean circuit

Postby Scotjamie » Mon Aug 16, 2010 10:46 pm

Very enjoyable report folks, thanks for this
monty wrote:We went up through the dense forest and up the steep side to the fence

we did likewise many years ago on a round to Sgurr a Mhaim (climbing the demoted Sgorr An Iubhair twice) - good to have this encyclopaedic detail for any return visit.
ps the quote from the report.... "The erosion and transport of fine rock flour downslope by the slow erosive action of the glaciers would have culminated in eventual deposition across Glen Nevis".........................I knew that :?
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Re: The Stob Ban and Mullach nan Coirean circuit

Postby Barnety2000 » Mon Aug 16, 2010 10:52 pm

Haha I'm a geologist, have to get it in somewhere :D
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