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Day One - Sat 17th Sept - The Saddle and Sgurr na Sgine
Distance - 13.7km
Ascent - 1459m
Time - 6hrsHigh hopes for this trip remained lofty with a forecast of 2 dry days out of 3 - potentially the third trip to the NW Highlands in a row that wasn't going to be a washout. That's not supposed to happen, right? The aim was to do The Saddle and Sgurr na Sgine, the South Glen Shiel Ridge and the Five Sisters in 3 days. Again, I guess 2 out of 3 ain't bad!
An earlyish drive up from Glasgow meant we were at the west end of Glen Shiel for 11am, ready to tackle the Forcan Ridge in what we hoped would remain dry conditions. Early signs were promising.
P1030286 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
The path which cuts northwest to Bealach na Craoibhe is in excellent condition, and we were there, albeit drenched in sweat in no time, where the mighty ridge finally reveals itself.
P1030291 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Strolling around Meallan Odhar, we were suddenly at the bottom, with blue skies appearing. Will let the pictures do the rest of the talking...
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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The dreaded downward pitch!
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
All of it was just a joy from start to finish. Up there with my top experiences in the hills so far, if not at the very top
We had managed to catch a break in the clouds too, and the sun which shone for us on the ridge had disappeared not 15 minutes after we left the summit. Views from the summit were sublime, only Skye to the west was covered in clag.
P1030361 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Would have happily attempted descending the way we had came, but after some lunch and a wee meditation we were bound for Sgurr na Sgine. The climb to Sgurr na Sgine should not be underestimated (I underestimate all the hills after the first one usually!) - there is still a good 300m of ascent to go.
P1030369 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Legs burning, we gained the ridge between Faochag and Sgurr na Sgine as the clag came in. Met a really nice bunch of walkers here of differing ages and patter quality
The cairn is reached easily over a small knobbly plateau, then it's back the way you came towards Faochag to start the descent (that's the one that looks unclimbable from the road
)
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
The descent is a punishing one on the knees, but is over remarkably quickly. Euan always complains that I practically run down hills. I find it fun (unlike him I have not come a cropper yet, but I'm sure that time will come!), but my knees would not thank me the next day! We took a wee shortcut at the river back to car so as not to risk our lives on the A87.
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Just a great day. With the added bonus it was only a 5 minute drive to our digs for the next 2 nights, which other members will I'm sure be familiar with
Day 2 - Sun 18th Sept - Falls of Glomach & A'Ghlas-bheinn
Distance - 22.2km
Ascent - 1411m
Time - 6.75hrsDay 2's forecast was less encouraging, but with a good sleep under our belts and a slight hangover we made the sensible choice not to do the South Glen Shiel ridge (definitely the best option given what later transpired) and had a lesiurely morning milling about Eilean Donan castle, before settling on the Falls of Glomach for a walk (with added A'Ghlas-bheinn if conditions so favoured).
The rain was spitting as we started the walk from Morvich, but didn't really get going. It was warm and humid. The route to the falls is a fairly lengthly but pleasant one, flat at first before crossing the Abhainn Chonaig and passing a bothy which has long since been uninhibated. From here, the route follows a track through Dorusduain Wood, before beginning to climb east for a few kilometres to reach the Bealach na Sroine at about 500m, which has a real feeling of wilderness.
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
From the bealach, there is a good path which descends about 150m to the falls on the left, which you can hear long before you see. As others have said, it is well worth the walk, absolutely breathtaking
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
After spending a while here marvelling, we painfully re-ascended to the bealach to have lunch and make a decision. The rain was now coming down quite a bit, and clag covered the pathless north ridge of A'Ghlas-bheinn (probably).
We decided to go for it, and what followed was an hour and a half of climbing pretty much aimlessley through blasting wind and rain. The final 100m of ascent in particular was a real slog. At one point I believe I shouted to Euan (barely audible even although he was right next to me) 'this is what it feels like to be alive!', which was met with a look of disdain at best and hatred at worst. We did not hang about at the summit, and so began the long descent to Bealach an Sgairne 400m below.
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Cloud did clear for a while, allowing decent views down to Loch a'Bhealaich, and by the time we reached the Bealach the rain and stopped and the wind had dried at least some of our clothes.
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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The route back to start down Gleann Choinneachain was long but very pleasant over a good path. Glad to be back though on a day which felt like an adventure, just in time for a cracking dinner at Kintail Lodge
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Day 3 - Mon 19th Sept - The Five Sisters of Kintail
Distance - 14.8km
Ascent - 1574m
Time - 7.75hrsEver since started hillwalking, i'd wanted to do this classic and revered walk, and today was the day! Luckily, our fellow bunker had agreed to give us a lift along the road first thing (thanks Colin, and sorry for keeping you waiting!) so we didn't have to get the bus.
From the bottom, the 550m climb to Bealach an Lapain is every bit as tough as described, an absolutely relentless and boggy climb, lactic acid coursing through our legs - a real sense of achievement to get to the top, sadly not rewarded with any views. Safe, however, in the knowledge that, just over an hour in, the hardest part of the day was complete.
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Forecast had suggested (I was now answering to the name Michael Pish) the mist would clear before lunchtime, so we waited around for a while and chatted to some gents from London who were here for revenge after being turned back earlier in the year
Eventually we set off on the well-walked ridge towards the first peak of the day, Beinn Odhar, then the first munro top, Sgurr nan Spainteach - the peak of the Spaniards. The mist was clearing, giving hints of awe-inspiring views, and dulling any lingering leg pain.
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Once, eventually, at the first massively cairned munro - Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe - we stopped for a while and had a sandwich. The mist started to clear, and the route to the north lay enticingly ahead - Sgurr na Carnach with Loch Duich far below and the massive looking Sgurr Fhuaran behind. Bring em on!!!
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Excitement almost over, we were out of food and pretty fatigued. Unperturbed, we slogged over the 2 remaining sisters - the steep-sided and scrambly Sgurr nan Saighead and the little pathless bump of Beinn Bhuidhe. By this time we had had enough, dreaming of a warm bath and bed, so began the boggy descent to the west, then north into the hanging valley of the Allt a'Chruinn, where a path is picked up.
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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The path follows the burn to the top of the hanging valley, then descends steeply down a good path to the hamlet of Allt a'Chruinn, where we folowed the main road back to the car at Kintail Lodge. Another bloody brilliant weekend - back to work the next day with a new sense of perspective
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr
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Ross Thomson, on Flickr