by walkingpoles » Tue Oct 04, 2016 8:05 pm
Date walked: 26/09/2016
Time taken: 15 days
Distance: 400 km
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There are many walk reports, so I concentrate on the bits where there is no report on and add a lessons learnt and some photos later.
I was naive about not bringing a tent. It needed some luck (Mostly that hostels aren't overbooked. Usually there is no signal so you cannot reserve in advance. Booking everything from home isn't ideal either as your schedule will get upside down anyway). There were long days interspersed with rest days. Compromising on distance is not possible without a tent. Going light was mandatory also. The longest stretch was about 40km. September is probably ideal for going without tent, as it is late in the season but the days are not too short yet. I like munros, so there were some plans off track (or putting the track over summits). Didn't succeed completely, but got to climb 8 of them during the CWT.
I've seen Knoydart before, so that I decided to start along the Great Glen way
Day 1
High noon train from Glasgow to Fort William, pit stop in Morrisons and easy walk to Banavie. Hostel "Chase the wild goose" is nice. Food in the bistro next door (Calling in and reserving advised. They let me wait for more than hour due to missing capacity). Even though it says "Restaurant" in big friendly letters on the outside of the building, inside is only a pub without food and the bistro.
Day 2
Along the Great Glen Way to Invergarry, Saddle Mountain Hostel.
Walking along the Great Glen Way is hard: lots of tarmac and hard paths. I walked too fast, got blisters all over. In hindsight I should have stayed at Laggan and made the next day a very easy one to Invergarry. The hostel is a great stop. The caretakers are hikers themselves. Bring your own food or walk to the pub (about 10min walk).
Day 3
Cluanie Inn
30km is long distance at the beginning of the trail. At the end of it, I'd found it a perfect distance. With the condition of my feet I didn't dare to go the way Harveys map suggested and followed the A87. Walking alongside the road is fine. Traffic not too heavy and enough space so that you don't need to fear for your life. Surprised how much litter was lying along the road, though. Absolute disgrace. I made sure not to leave any rubbish behind and car drivers with motors under their *ss throw it out of windows.
When phoning Cluanie they told me that they are fully booked. I was too afraid to walk for over 40km to Glen Afric youth hostel so I hitched along the road (12km. I made up for it the next day.) to the Cluanie Inn and walked to Glen Afric hostel.
Day 4
"Rest day", spent munro bagging. You can't buy food at the hostel. (EDIT: I was there again in 2017. Now they sell dehydrated food.) But at the end of season the free food shelf is better equipped than any supermarket. The hostel itself closes over winter. If you arrive too late in the year, there is a bothy nearby.
Day 5
Bendronaig Bothy
Very nice walk. I should have stayed at Maol Buidhe, given the condition of my feet, but pressed on (anticlockwise. Don't go clockwise, or you will regret!). Arriving at Bendronaig after dark. I crossed the dodgy (and abandoned) footbridge because it was too dark to see that next to it is a proper bridge for cars. Also very lucky to check in the dark that the fence around the bothy is barbwired. That could have meant the end of the trip. Bothy itself is top (with toilet). The rat turned out to be a big bug.
Day 6
Gerry's hostel in Craig (now run by Simon)
Amazing place. Powerful drying room. Little shop with food. Record player and fire. We listened to Scottish Folk, RocknRoll and Erik Satie. I will go there again to climb all the munros I had to walk past. Unfortunately I was limping badly, using my poles like crutches. The reason I pressed on the night before was that I was afrad that Gerry's might be full, so that I had to continue to the Teahouse bothy. With a start at Maol Buidhe that would have been a stretch in my condition.
Day 7
Kinloch Ewe hostel/hotel
Easy day. It's a bit tricky navigationwise: At the start, shortly after the Gerrys, there is a path leading up the forest which is not in the OS-maps (but on Harveys). Later, due to hydroscheming, there are a lot of new roads. But the general direction is obvious and all the roads lead to Kinloch Ewe. I walked the last stretch on tarmac, which is not too bad. Pubfood in the evening. Met 3 CWTers.
(edit 2024: I was back in Kinlochewe. Even though the sign "bunkhouse" is still up, the bunks have gone for good. This time I stayed at Simon's BnB in Incheril and enjoyed it very much. Simon is very happy to host CWTers. You can reach him at simalexruadh "at" gmail.com or by contacting the Stag hotel.)
Day 8
Rest day, buying chocolate and compeed in the store and walking only in my bothy boots. The thistle stop cafe is much nicer than the pub. In a shed behind the church you can find a great gallery by a wildlife photographer.
(edit 2024: the thistle stop cafe has now a different owner and calls itself the Old Hall Cafe. The pizzas are great. The store is now community owned, still sells compeed and is much nicer than before. I can recommend the home made crystalised ginger.)
Day 9
Lochivraon Bothy
It felt great being able to walk properly again. After this I never had any problems anymore with feet or knees. I'll write a bit in more detail about the next few days, because the path I chose deviates from Harveys. I got a monthly subscription to OSmaps (4 pounds), which allows you to print A3 maps all over. The path from Kinlochewe is the same as to Shenavall but before Loch an Nid, you continue straight ahead and follow the river/path to the big Loch. Unfortunately, one of my poles broke. There are two houses. A nice one and the bothy. The bothy got a toilet which is great (it means, that there is no human waste in the river next to it). Rather cold, but nice and very scenic.
In the evening I climbed the nearest munro, just to try out my new freedom.
Day 10
Glenbeg Bothy
That was my favorite leg of the trail. Follow the loch. After it, it is 5km on tarmac. At a tourist stop you can follow a path down to the spectacular Corrieshalloch gorge. On the other side there is no path anymore, but it is an easy climb to the mainroad. No fence. Then upwards, through the trees, and find a way through the lodges and upwards to Beinn Dearg (1083m). Somebody built a ginormous stone wall on the mountains. Smelled like slavery to me. No idea whether sheep are impressed by it. It's a fine mountain. I climbed a second easy munro on the way down and descended to the Lochs Tuath and Prille. It is better to stay on the south side of Loch Tuath. Loads of stags everywhere. After this it is an easy descent to Glenbeg Bothy. Unfortunately it is not maintained by the MBA anymore (ask google if you want to dig into the story). The bothy is still in good conditions (some nettles defending the entrance and some paint cans should be moved from the bothy to the shed). It would really be a shame if this place is left to rot. The scenery is amazing and water source top quality.
Day 11
Schoolhouse Bothy
Easy walk over the rather remote Seana Bhraigh. Very scenic again. The northface of this mountain ridge present itself as a spectacular cliff.
Schoolhouse Bothy complete with blackboard and a volume by Shakespeare (go to the end of "what you will"/"twelfth night" which goes "for the rain it raineth every day" for a particular Scottish experience. Great place. I didn't trust the water coming from the private lodges in Corriemulzie estate, but there is new wire bridge on the north side over the river Einig which leads to some top quality water streams. According to the MBA website, the bothy was meant to be closed, which made me a bit nervous. Luckily it was open. Since Oykell Bridge Hotel was fully booked, the Plan B was walking on tarmac into the night and staying at the Motel further north. Glad, that Plan A worked.
Day 12
Inchnadamph Lodge
7km to Oykell Bridge Hotel and then a proper breakfast. Comes in at 16 pound, but was worth it. They serve breakfast after 8:30. Felt welcome even though I was dirty and didn't look like their regular guests. Got a healthy piece of cake for lunch with me.
After Benmore Lodge I got overcondifent and ascendet Ben More Assynt by the southridge. It's very spectacular. I didn't know the weatherforecast. And when the wind gusts hit you sideways on that narrow ridge, the ratio danger/fun is not so favorable anymore (backpacks double as sails). Only attempt this in good weather! Even if you have experience you won't enjoy it when the **** hits the fan. Occasionaly people die on that ridge. After Ben More Assynt, the ridge to Conival is OK, even in dire conditions. Descent to Inchnadamph is easy again.
My raincover flew off when I was on the ridge. Very lucky that my sleeping bag didn't get soaked. I'll write more about it in the lessons learnt. Inchnadamph Lodge got bunks, a big kitchen and a drying room. They sell food, but if you don't want to carry around some pasta and sauce the next days, it will be instant noodles.
Day 13
Glendhu Bothy
Easy. Very scenic plateau and waterfalls on the way to Glencoul. It takes a bit of navigation if you don't follow the paths, but the rockfaces are easy to avoid. The bridge at Glencoul bothy got rebuilt, so no crossing rivers there. Both, at Glencoul and Glendhu the bothy is not in the nice house, but both bothies are great places. Also felt great to finally smell some sea water. I had high tide, unfortunately. On low tide you can try and pluck some mussels. Take care when walking along the fence leading to Glencoul. Some bits of the wire are lying well hidden on the ground, presenting possibly nasty traps.
Day 14
Old School, B&B at Inshegra, Kinlochbervie
Probably I could have made it to Strathan Bothy. But proper food once in a while is not to be undererstimated. I took the clockwise direction around Ben Stack. Extremely scenic, very interesting geologywise, amazing views and an atrocious wind on top of that little hill. It didn't come in gusts, so it was kind of predictable, but I had to make sure to stay away from cliffs. It was raining a lot previously so that I had to ford a torrent (rather than a small river) when walking along Loch a Gharb-bhaid Beag. Walking poles help. Speaking of wind, on the shore of that loch there is a boat hut with the roof lying next to it. Rhiconich hotel was fully booked and the pub hadn't opened yet when I was passing, but the Old School B&B was waiting anyway. The most potent heating device is in the toilet. Food was good.
Day 15
Cape Wrath/Kearvaig Bothy
First to London Stores at Badcall (that's apparently where people live who lost everything at poker:). The shop is great. Even Green and Blacks Chocolate and Ginger cake. Got resupplied and walked north into the bog. Top quality bog I have to say. At Strathan bothy I stashed some gear to lighten my pack.
Phone the MOD in advance! It's a bad surprise when you see the red flags in the wind at the border to the "Danger Area". Even though they display the phone number, there is no phone signal at the border, so you have to phone them when still in Kinlochbervie. I knew that the manoeuvres were only meant to start 2 days later. But the red flags were already flying in the wind. At the cape they told me that the military put them out early because of bad wheather forecasts. That's not how you win a war, MOD!! If they are shooting, though, it's definitively better to know what you're doing or stay in safety. Bombers, ships, choppers, artillery... proper war zone I suspect. I saw some craters.
At the cape, if you ask nicely you can stay there. I just stayed for the sunset (it was warm. Together with a nice couple who also just finished the CWT we sat outside, barefoot, drinking beer and watching the sun). With the last light I made it over to Kearvaig bothy. Amazing beach. In the morning I was watching seals swimming. Just around the corner to the right is a seastack which is even more scenic than the one at sandwood beach.
Day 16
How to escape the cape/Back to Strathan Bothy
Getting off the cape is actually harder than getting there. The bus and ferry service are not very reliable. Walking out felt much better anyway. Back to Strathcailleach Bothy where I had a late lunch. A fire was going and the bothy is generally nice with its paintings. Then I took the wrong decisions to walk to Strathan bothy to collect my gear. In the good hour it took, I got hit by atrocious rain and wind. Heavy weather just got redefined. Apparently the MOD didn't start the manouvres due to bad weather. Again, that's not how you win the war, MOD!!
Day 17
Easy walk over Sandwood Bay to Old School B&B. The beach and its seastack is amazing. I met up with the couple from the day before (who made the right decision and stood at Strathcailleach). Too much wind and waves to go for a swim (also rather cold) but getting off the trousers and walking with the feet in the water felt like holiday anyway.
Day 18
By car to the Rhiconich Hotel, where a National Express Bus should take me to Inverness. But the bus never came. I spent the day with the lovely couple and her mom who dropped me off at Inverness. Train back to Glasgow. Escaping the cape is hard.
I didn't meet the 3 CWTers from Kinlochewe again. Disappeared without a trace. I assume that they didn't make it in the end. If you don't reach the goal, you reach your limit. It's the richer experience.
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Last edited by
walkingpoles on Fri May 03, 2024 10:30 pm, edited 11 times in total.