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The intertwined lassoes of time, effort, health, fitness and wateriness conspired again to constrain my choice of destination. You may not buy into determinism but surely hillwalking planning yields many counter examples. Only joking!
I'd been to Beinn Ghobhlach once before, on a bitter winter's day with warm friends and a lot of ice on the road but wanted to return for another wander along the northern part of its horseshoe.
This time round the temperature dipped low enough on the way (minus four at Garve) but there was little evidence of ice on the road.
I collected a hitchhiker from the Braemore junction who was bound for either Badcaul or Badrallach, ostensibly a quantum hitchhiker if ever there was one. However, after observation of the Badrallach road end our quantum states collapsed into the mono-verse that includes the hitchhiler ending up at Badrallach. They were, of course, actually bound for Scoraig so not any kind of quantum hitchhiker at all. Full of an interesting story of life at Scoraig though but also life away from Scoraig -they were returning from a trip to Siberia of all places.
My temporary companion bade farewell and I set about faffing with my rucksack. I then set off too along the coastal path to Scoraig but doubled back five minutes later, realising that my hat wasn't on; possibly lulled into this error by the now balmy plus four Celsius. Couldn't find the bloody thing though. And no, it wasn't a case of a Schrodinger's hat that was only still in the car as long as I didn't look inside. It did feel like that though because I spent a good fifteen minutes looking for it but to no avail. Damn, I had to get going and my only option was to rely on the closeable hood on my new jacket. Felt up to it so set off again in slight trepidation and ear fear.
First 2km nice and smooth but a wee bit of indecision over a suitable ascent point (there is actually a very feint path up the first gully past the crags above the coastal path but I missed the start of this on the way up).
Going was ok -grass and heather on a steepish first 250m. But what is steep really -just put in enough turns and any slope is lessened I say.
Anyway a wee bit out if puff after that first bit but then a nice leg stretcher crossing the flatter ground between the lochs ahead after that.
Was interesting to see from this area the "backside" of Cnoc a' Bhaid-rallaich that I'd been to in February.
The map said head right and east of the top but the legs said go up the grassy, heathery slope in the middle. More huffing and puffing but not too bad considering. Pretty benign conditions until just below the summit ridge. Then hit by a bit of a cold breeze but still ok when on the move.
Very fine views from the top then onto frozen ground on the way down to the northern bit of the horseshoe.
Pretty cold now but I found my jacket was performing well so quite happy with that. My hydration plan was also working well and my hernia was behaving. All good!
Next came the real goal of the walk, the re-visit to the slopes overlooking Loch Broom; my hillwalking ideal -ridge backed by loch and/or sea and/or ocean. So a really enjoyable stroll along there for me but time was ticking and it was getting colder so down was the new direction of choice.
Cut a south west slant to skirt the base of the southern prow and this time was aiming for the western facing outflow of the westernmost loch. Which turned out to have handy stepping stones.
I thought I'd crossed those stepping stones without a soaking but jumped the last gap with too much of a self-satisfied spring and, like the Balrog's tail tip catching Gandalf, a splash of freezing water caught me right down the right calf. Didn't suck me into a fiery pit or anything, just gave me that horrible cold, wet shivery feeling. A quick wring out and I was off again and back at the car in decent time.
DSCN9324 by
John Little, on Flickr
Feels like Spring in the +4 Celsius.
DSCN9328 by
John Little, on Flickr
An easy first 2km along the coastal path to Scoraig.
DSCN9333 by
John Little, on Flickr
Near my turn off north up the first gully past the crags above the coastal path.
DSCN9344 by
John Little, on Flickr
Target ahead.
DSCN9347 by
John Little, on Flickr
In the direction of Cnoc a' Bhaid-rallaich if not of the latter.
DSCN9348 by
John Little, on Flickr
Approached up the left hand / east shore of the right hand loch.
DSCN9359 by
John Little, on Flickr
View into Fisherfield.
DSCN9374 by
John Little, on Flickr
An Teallach.
DSCN9376 by
John Little, on Flickr
Dearg?
DSCN9379 by
John Little, on Flickr
Scoraig peninsula.
DSCN9388 by
John Little, on Flickr
Fisherfield Deargs.
DSCN9389 by
John Little, on Flickr
Ullapool.
DSCN9393 by
John Little, on Flickr
Self timer after the surprisingly pleasant saunter over the last rocks before the top.
DSCN9408 by
John Little, on Flickr
At the main point of interest -the rugged northern slopes. Ears getting cold but fine with hood tied up.
DSCN9422 by
John Little, on Flickr
DSCN9425 by
John Little, on Flickr
Ben Mor Coigach.
DSCN9427 by
John Little, on Flickr
Ullapool again.
DSCN9434 by
John Little, on Flickr
Looking along the fine north arm of the horseshoe, if horseshoes have arms that is.
DSCN9442 by
John Little, on Flickr
My ideal -the sea or loch or ocean backed ridge.
DSCN9447 by
John Little, on Flickr
DSCN9450 by
John Little, on Flickr
The down is ok; just needed to pick a way avoiding the few boggy runnels but also took advantage of one for a water refill.
DSCN9453 by
John Little, on Flickr
This time going off to the right to cross the outflow via stepping stones.
DSCN9454 by
John Little, on Flickr
Scrambly options?
DSCN9456 by
John Little, on Flickr
Light fading.
DSCN9460 by
John Little, on Flickr
Outflow.
DSCN9463 by
John Little, on Flickr
I was transfixed by the gloaming.
