walkhighlands

Share your personal walking route experiences in Scotland, and comment on other peoples' reports.
Warning Please note that hillwalking when there is snow lying requires an ice-axe, crampons and the knowledge, experience and skill to use them correctly. Summer routes may not be viable or appropriate in winter. See winter information on our skills and safety pages for more information.

A kayak trip and wild camp to Sgurr Mor across Loch Quoich

A kayak trip and wild camp to Sgurr Mor across Loch Quoich


Postby Mountainlove » Tue Dec 06, 2016 7:31 pm

Route description: Sgùrr Mòr and Sgùrr an Fhuarain, Loch Arkaig

Munros included on this walk: Sgùrr Mòr (Loch Quoich)

Date walked: 03/12/2016

Time taken: 7.15 hours

Distance: 16 km

Ascent: 834m

25 people think this report is great.
Register or Login
free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).

Paddle across Loch Quoich, wild camp and climb Sgurr Mor for sunrise…doesn’t it sounds perfect?

In reality I squelched through silt, took 90 min to repair a kayak, arrived in darkness, lost my GPS and…ok I shall start from the begin.


our_route.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts




Loch Quoich will always be my favorite loch in Scotland. I have camped numerous times on its shore, swam across it and the only thing missing was an adventure in my inflatable kayak. :thumbup:
Just over 4 hours after setting off from home, I passed Loch Garry and magical mist covered the countryside around it. Stopping for a photo I breathed in the fresh air and hoped that the fog meant that I would have an amazing invasion during the next morning! Full of hopes I continued.


Image
Foggy Loch Garry

Image
Across the other side

The further I drove into the glen the sunnier it got and by the time I arrived only a few clouds covered the highest peaks.

Image
Gearr Garry

Image
Magical Loch Quoich

Image
Slow moving traffic :lol:

Image
The locals relaxing

I parked at one of my favorite spots and inspected the water level. It was very low. I am guessing a good 2-3 meters’ difference in height in comparison to summer.
Once I unpacked my car I carried my gear down to a dry area close to the shore and started to pump up my boat. But for the first time it would not inflate evenly. Looking at it the material it was twisted in places where it should not twist. What followed was numerous deflations and inflations mixed with a growing rage until I found the problem.

Annoyed of having lost valuable time I carried the kayak down to the water and crossed a sand/silt bank. It was soft and I walked on hastily, but the closer I got to the water the further I started to sink. Panicky I let go of the boat and aiming to free my welly I took another step and sank even deeper. Freezing cold water gushed into my welly and taking another step I was knee deep in water. :shock: No no no I did not want to go for a swim!!! :lol: Once I freed myself and poured 2 pints of water out of my wellies, I looked for a more suitable place to enter the water. I found one a bit further down the loch and once I carried all my gear and packed the boat, I was caked in silt but finally able to go.

Image
Time to set off

Image
My muddy wellies

Once I left the shore behind I started to relax. The water was calm and even though the boat was heavy with all my gear in it I was able to cover the 4 km distance in around 1.5 hours. (Inflatable kayaks are a lot slower than rigid ones)

Image
Back to my happy self

Image
On the way towards Sgurr Mor

The sun had set by the time I had found a suitable spot to ‘land ‘my kayak (I had learned my lesson to avoid silt) and once I had set up camp, it was dark. Equipped with my head torch I went for a short excursion and saw the land rover track I would have to follow the next day. Happy that I had found the start of my walk, I settled and had dinner.
While I waited for my dinner to cook, it was time to take the waterproof trousers and wellies off I had worn to kayak and tend to my now frozen feet…wet sock-less feet in wellies in winter aren't a great idea. Just as well I had brought a hot water bottle! :thumbup:
The hot water bottle had been the best idea I had in ages! Sounds of Ahhs and Ohhs escaped my lips when I slipped the bottle in my sleeping bag and my feed underneath it. I shall never camp without one I vowed. :angel: The heat was blissful!
Reading my book while cuddling my hot water bottle, I was happy and was able to laugh about the misfortunes of the day. By 8 pm I switched the switched the light off and settled to sleep.

Image
My campsite (taken during the next morning) You can just see the path behind my tent across the burn

I would love to say that I fell asleep in an instance, but that wasn’t the case. I had camped next to a small water fall and had not realized how loud it was. Have you ever listened to running water for a long period of time?…needing a pie is unavoidable 8) :lol: . My ear plugs numbed the sound a bit, but I tossed and turned waking up numerous times throughout the night.
I woke with a start, what time was it? My mobile read 5:50 am …whoa…. for the first time ever I did not hear my alarm.
Never mind I had to get going and in record time I was dressed and on my way by 6am. Looking up the night sky was amazing and twinkled with millions of stars. Forcing my eyes on the spot of light in front of me I had to cross the hurdle…. a river in the dark. :shock: I don’t particular like river crossing, but crossing one in the dark is even worse than in daylight!

Luckily I managed without falling in and once I was on the other side, I followed the great land rover track which I had seen the previous evening. The path climbed gently up the hill and I knew that at some point, I would have to follow a fainter path towards my right. Walking in the pitch black is always a strange experience. A deep black shape made out the mountain to my right, but otherwise everything else was the same shade of black. Following the small beam of light my head torch cast in front of me, I walked in a world in which time seemed to stand still.
Around half an hour into my walk the path stopped climbing and I stopped to dig my GPS out of my bag. GPS…where was my GPS? :shock: I turned out pockets and emptied the bag where is it? Slowly had to admit the truth, I had lost my GPS. :wtf: :cry: :shock:
Frantically I was recalling what I had done when I set off. I had put the GPS in my bag the night before, had grabbed the bag when I set off and ‘oh’ I had searched for my gloves. My GPS must have fallen out at the same time and still be around my tent.
I looked up the pitch black mountain. Should I try to climb it in the dark without a map or GPS to guide me? There are times when safety has to come first. I needed to return and find my GPS.

Back at my tent, I was relieved to see if laying on the grass. Otherwise I was angry, here goes the chance to see the sunrise. Saying that I knew I could try the direct way. A path would lead me halfway and with the approaching daylight surely I could managed the last bit!
I raced off, crossed the burn a third time (it gets easier with practice) and made my way up the path.It was slowly getting lighter and by the time I left the path, I was able to make out the countryside around me. Just as well as it was impossible boggy and a relentless crossing of small grassy bumps and endless burns (not recommendable in complete darkness)

Image
On the way up once it got light around 8am

By 8am I was able to switch off my head torch and I was sweating buckets in the cold morning air. Far too much exercise on a Sunday before breakfast! 8)
At exactly 8:40 I approached the bealach between the Corbett and Munro. The views were lovely, but my much awaited sunrise was shielded by a thick layer of clouds. :? One can’t have it all I guess. It was too cold to linger and I had to reach the top.

Image
How the world looks like on a Sunday morning in December

Image
View towards the Corbett

Image
There is a sunrise behind the clouds

It’s a steep path to the summit and the ground around me was frozen solid. Once I reached the cairn, the views out towards Knoydart, Loch Quoich and down south were stunning.

Image
The summit in the distance

Image
Towards the Corbett and Gairlich

Image
Lochan mam Breac

Image
Towards Loch Quoich

Image
Panorama

Image
Knoydart





Close to starving I evaluated my need for breakfast, with the possibility to freeze to death if I stayed to unpack and eat it. With a deep sigh I decided that a frozen Rolo bar on the way down would have to do. Sucking my frozen Rolos, (one way to make chocolate last), I made my way down back to my tent. Not fancying the same way I opted for the shoulder called Meall a Choire Charnach. I must say it was a fantastic way down and one of the best pathless walks I have had down a mountain. Very much recommendable!

Image
The way back down Meall a Choire Charnach

Image
I need to return at some point!

Image
The end of Loch Quoich

Image
Myself

Image
Further down

Image
My campsite and 'garage'


Back at my tent I looked around my chosen campsite, which I was able to see for the first time in daylight. A shed stood on the other side, but apart from a cosy bothy interior, it held a small vehicle…I should have checked for keys :lol:

Image
On the way back. Evidence that Loch Quoich must have been covered by trees before the dam was build

Unfortunately, it was time to go and pack up. On my way home with blisters on my hands and aches from kayaking I was knackered…but what an adventure it had been.
I might have climbed all the Munros around Loch Quoich in some usual ways, but I left out the Corbetts on purpose…for a time to return for more adventures around my favorite loch in Scotland. :thumbup:

Image
What the local wild life had to say :lol:

Image
Until the next time
User avatar
Mountainlove
Munro compleatist
 
Posts: 1345
Munros:88   Corbetts:54
Fionas:7   Donalds:10
Sub 2000:3   
Islands:10
Joined: Feb 2, 2010
Location: North Ayrshire

Re: A kayak trip and wild camp to Sgurr Mor across Loch Quoi

Postby jacob » Tue Dec 06, 2016 7:36 pm

Haha, great read mountainlove, sounds like a real survival story. :lol:
Some nice atmospheric pics there as well. Nice one.
User avatar
jacob
 
Posts: 521
Munros:19   Corbetts:9
Fionas:4   
Hewitts:19
Joined: Mar 4, 2015
Location: East of Felixstowe ;)

Re: A kayak trip and wild camp to Sgurr Mor across Loch Quoi

Postby Borderhugh » Tue Dec 06, 2016 8:23 pm

Grand views, frozen rolos and silt. You wont forget that one in a hurry. Great stuff ML :clap:
User avatar
Borderhugh
Munro compleatist
 
Posts: 330
Munros:282   Corbetts:118
Fionas:47   Donalds:70
Sub 2000:14   Hewitts:104
Wainwrights:100   Islands:23
Joined: Feb 4, 2012
Location: Stirling :)

Re: A kayak trip and wild camp to Sgurr Mor across Loch Quoi

Postby litljortindan » Tue Dec 06, 2016 8:46 pm

The second pic, the stag silhouette and the summit pics are excellent. What a rude stag at the end though.
User avatar
litljortindan
Ambler
 
Posts: 2369
Munros:153   Corbetts:67
Fionas:29   Donalds:1
Sub 2000:47   Hewitts:12
Wainwrights:10   
Joined: Dec 11, 2011

Re: A kayak trip and wild camp to Sgurr Mor across Loch Quoi

Postby weaselmaster » Tue Dec 06, 2016 9:00 pm

Enjoyed that ML - good to see others braving the winter in a tent (and a kayak, I suppose)
Love the second picture in particular.
I think you need to find another method of getting across Loch Quoich now - swim, airbed, kayak...something more challenging is called for :lol:
weaselmaster
Hill Bagger
 
Posts: 2423
Munros:277   Corbetts:216
Fionas:178   Donalds:73+30
Sub 2000:391   Hewitts:33
Wainwrights:15   Islands:28
Joined: Aug 22, 2012
Location: Greenock

Re: A kayak trip and wild camp to Sgurr Mor across Loch Quoi

Postby DaveH82 » Tue Dec 06, 2016 9:28 pm

Great report and photos. I am now looking at inflatable kayaks, looks like the best way to do this hill and some others. :)
User avatar
DaveH82
Mountain Walker
 
Posts: 155
Munros:182   Corbetts:15
Fionas:3   Donalds:1
Sub 2000:25   Hewitts:1
Islands:3
Joined: Jul 18, 2015
Location: Monifieth

Re: A kayak trip and wild camp to Sgurr Mor across Loch Quoi

Postby Marty_JG » Tue Dec 06, 2016 9:51 pm

DaveH82 wrote:Great report and photos. I am now looking at inflatable kayaks, looks like the best way to do this hill and some others. :)


This German packrafting store does a good comparison chart of the various options.

http://www.packrafting-store.de/images/content/CC_EN.pdf

Personally I'm looking at the Supai Matkat, as it's below 1kg, but it's also very fragile. Lots of options in the 2-3kg range though.
User avatar
Marty_JG
Backpacker
 
Posts: 1223
Munros:10   Corbetts:2
Fionas:2   
Sub 2000:3   
Islands:3
Joined: Sep 12, 2016
Location: Glasgow

Re: A kayak trip and wild camp to Sgurr Mor across Loch Quoi

Postby DaveH82 » Tue Dec 06, 2016 11:27 pm

Marty_JG wrote:

DaveH82 wrote:Great report and photos. I am now looking at inflatable kayaks, looks like the best way to do this hill and some others. :)
This German packrafting store does a good comparison chart of the various options.http://www.packrafting-store.de/images/content/CC_EN.pdfPersonally I'm looking at the Supai Matkat, as it's below 1kg, but it's also very fragile. Lots of options in the 2-3kg range though.


Thanks Marty_JG. This really could open a new approach to me tackling some hills.
User avatar
DaveH82
Mountain Walker
 
Posts: 155
Munros:182   Corbetts:15
Fionas:3   Donalds:1
Sub 2000:25   Hewitts:1
Islands:3
Joined: Jul 18, 2015
Location: Monifieth

Re: A kayak trip and wild camp to Sgurr Mor across Loch Quoi

Postby rockhopper » Wed Dec 07, 2016 1:03 am

Some of us look for the most straightforward and/or efficient ways up hills - you seem to seek out the opposite and look for the most challenging ! :wink:
Good result though and well done - 'tis a great area for this sort of trip :thumbup:
Think I'll leave this sort of thing to you youngsters and take it easy :wink: - cheers :)
User avatar
rockhopper
 
Posts: 7444
Munros:282   Corbetts:222
Fionas:136   Donalds:89+20
Sub 2000:16   Hewitts:2
Wainwrights:3   Islands:20
Joined: May 31, 2009
Location: Glasgow

Re: A kayak trip and wild camp to Sgurr Mor across Loch Quoi

Postby Marty_JG » Wed Dec 07, 2016 1:29 am

DaveH82, if you're only planning on parking a car one side of a loch and paddling to the other you can save a lot of money by getting a cheaper but heavier inflatable. I have a couple of Intex boats (Challenger 1-man Kayak, Seahawk 2-man dinghy) and I've had a lot of fun with them, they're just too heavy to hike with. But for £20-60 they're great value.

I've been promising myself a camp-out on Eilean I Vow, I really should get round to that...
User avatar
Marty_JG
Backpacker
 
Posts: 1223
Munros:10   Corbetts:2
Fionas:2   
Sub 2000:3   
Islands:3
Joined: Sep 12, 2016
Location: Glasgow

Re: A kayak trip and wild camp to Sgurr Mor across Loch Quoi

Postby Mountainlove » Wed Dec 07, 2016 1:02 pm

jacob, litljortindan Many thanks :-)

@ Borderhugh: Thats for sure and I do look forward to the next trip...saying that my kayak is still blocking most of my spare room in order to dry out :roll: (much easier in summer)

@ weaselmaster: I don't think I will ever beat the camping devotion of you and sick kid in any kind of weather 8) . I think as well that I am slowly running out of alternative ways to reach mountains.

@ Dave82: Mine is a Hydro-Force Ventura Kayak. Its 20 kilo, but folded up it fits underneath my bed for storage and in my small car with all my camping gear. It is a 2 man one and can carry up to 200 kilos (something to watch out for) I have used it a lot this year in lochs and in the sea and it did great.
Based on online reviews and being £200 it was the best value for money one.
By the way if you are looking into boats don't forget to look into paddles...they are your 'boots' in the water and need to be long and light enough.

@ rockhopper: You are taking it easy? I remember reading about some crazy long routes you did :D
User avatar
Mountainlove
Munro compleatist
 
Posts: 1345
Munros:88   Corbetts:54
Fionas:7   Donalds:10
Sub 2000:3   
Islands:10
Joined: Feb 2, 2010
Location: North Ayrshire

Re: A kayak trip and wild camp to Sgurr Mor across Loch Quoi

Postby Woodsy Boy » Sun Jan 23, 2022 11:09 pm

Why can i not see the photos ?
Woodsy Boy
Mountain Walker
 
Posts: 70
Munros:282   Corbetts:20
Fionas:12   Donalds:8+3
Sub 2000:8   
Joined: Feb 21, 2011

25 people think this report is great.
Register or Login
free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).




Can you help support Walkhighlands?


Our forum is free from adverts - your generosity keeps it running.
Can you help support Walkhighlands and this community by donating by direct debit?



Return to Walk reports - Scotland

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 27 guests