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The last day of 3 in the Eastern Cairngorms and I awoke early in Ballater after a wholly necessary long sleep in the excellent Habitat Hostel, which I had had all to myself. Air temperature was a balmy -7 as I let myself out and drove down the icy A93 with the sun rising over clear skies. The trials of the previous day on the White Mounth had left my legs feeling heavy, and the top of my right foot swollen, but it was nothing a positive mental attitude and lashings of ibuprofen gel could not negate. The plan was to do the Glas Maol circuit, although a spanner was almost put in the works upon arrival at the layby, where I discovered I had made my second schoolboy error in 24 hours by leaving my boots in the car overnight - frozen solid
Unperturbed, I set off, painfully at first, toward the distant Carn an Tuirc, never to see another sole until I returned to the road 6 hours later
Carn an Tuirc from the layby by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1030822 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
In the shade of the sun in the east, it was really cold, but the lack of wind meant it wasn't bitterly so: clear, crisp and sunny: perfect Winter walking conditions. The path climbs gently and steadily, any bog put to the rest by the frost, before arriving at the bottom of the mountain proper past some shielings, where I thought it best to make a bee-line rather than attempt to follow the feint path. Behind me, whisps of cloud were drifting over the illuminated summits of Carn Aosda and The Cairnwell. Ascending further, heavier cloud hung suspended in Garbh-choire.
P1030824 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1030826 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
The Cairnwell by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
allt a gharbh choire by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
garbh choire by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1030836 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
The climb continued apace, steeper now. Legs were tired and foot giving me jip, but I knew this would be the longest climb of the day - 'once you're up, you're up' and all that. 100m from the summit, my toils were rewarded handsomely with this view:
western cairngorms by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
The final section is a bit more rocky, having to watch footing a bit more closely given the ice, but no real difficulties. Elusive mountain hare aplenty, although I have still never managed to get close enough to them despite many attempts. Arriving at the summit plateau, the panorama was perfect. Good time for a break to consolidate this 3 day fling and growing love affair, I thought.
mountain hares by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
cairn toul etc by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
final ascent by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1030846 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
carn an tuirc summit by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
wind shelter and carn aosda by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1030851 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Continuing eastwards over the rocky plateau, I dropped down for a GANDER at Corrie Loch KANDER (thanks), but realised I should have stayed on the higher side as the loch itself was hidden from view from the west side. Oh well. The walk from here follows a track over gently rising ground to Cairn of Claise. To the east, Tolmount, Tom Buidhe and the White Mounth was enveloped in cloud. The sky was really starting to show some lovely colours, and made for some great shots, even from a terrible photographer such as me!
to Glas Maol by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
into corrie Loch Kander by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1030860 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
A drystone dyke is reached and followed to the summit cairn which sits alongside. I had thought about linking Tolmount and Tom Bhuidhe from here, but knew my legs and the sunlight hours would not allow it. The cloud cover over those two made my mind up for me. Another stop for some food and (thankfully not frozen this time) water and it was onward, descending into the freezing cloud and the bealach below Glas Maol. I believe there is a path somewhere here, but I didn't find it.
cairn of claise summit by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
beinn a ghlo...maybe? by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
wall and Glas Maol behind by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1030868 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1030871 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Back above the cloud, the views were still brilliant - no other verbage I can really give it. Heading initially for the distant ski poma, then cutting left, the trig point of Glas Maol, the high point of the day, was reached. I was getting pretty tired by this point, but the view to my final target, Creag Leacach, which looked a lot more characterful than the 3 hitherto, spurred me on - time to suck it up and, most importantly, enjoy it
Glas Maol sumit by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1030876 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
from Glas Maol by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
the way forward by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Descending to Bathach Beag then heading north alongside another drystone dyke, I was feeling great again, literally nowhere I would rather be. I saw some yeti footprints down here, however they could have easily been from snowshoes - one can but dream. Time for a meditation, which I have started incorporating into my solo walks (try the 'buddhify' app if you are interested), and onward up the steep and stony subsidiary top of Cul Riabhach, which hides Creag Leacach behind it.
P1030884 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
yeti footprints by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Cul Riabhach by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Caelochan glen by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
It was a hard push for such a short ascent, 11 munros worth of lactic acid running through my legs, but eventually the 12th and final one was reached. Almost all the cloud of earlier had lifted, allowing for clear views across The Cairnwell pass and beyond, the top sprinkled with remnants of snow. Just great
P1030895 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
Retracing my steps over Cul Riabhach and back to Bathach Beag, a skirt around the west side of Glas Maol was not kind on my ankles at the steeper parts, after which I made towards the ski tow at the summit of Meall Odhar. Sun beginning to set, I was now thoroughly knackered.
P1030897 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
back to Creag Leacach by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
An easy track now winds it's way down the mountain past all the ski paraphernalia all the way to the ski cenre carpark, 2km from my starting point down the road. But this part of the world wouldn't let me leave her without one final gesture - a beautiful sunset bathing Glenshee and setting my heart on fire. What a trip - I will come back for you one day, my love!
P1030910 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
glenshee sunset by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr
P1030913 by
Ross Thomson, on Flickr