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One of the most exciting things about multi-day hillwalking trips away (for me anyway) is planning the thing. Late last year myself and usual hillwalking companions Graham and Rob made plans to head up north for a few days. The "main event" would be a stay at the Coire Fionnaraich bothy, near Coulags with an ascent of Maol Chean Dearg, which promised excellent views of the Torridon giants. However with a load of annual leave to play with, any hint of a decent forecast would see me away for several days. The aforementioned decent forecast materialised (for 3 of the days at least) and I duly booked us into Forestway's fine bunkhouse for three nights, before the intended trip south to the bothy.
Plans were complicated slightly by Graham's intention to compete in the Strathpuffer, a 24 hour MTB event, followed by illness and Rob crashing his bike at 35mph the day before the trip
However we all sorted ourselves out, and after an eternity of back and forth planning, consulting of maps etc, we decided Rob and I would do an "easy" hill on the way up on Friday, before settling into the bunkhouse, then the bigger day of the Beinn Dearg Four on Saturday, with a presumably knackered Graham joining us for another easier day on Sunday, likely to be Am Faochagach. We'd then head to Coulags to walk into the Coire Fionnaraich bothy, after having walked Moruisg and Sgurr nan Ceannachean, stay for two nights to walk Maol Chean Dearg, and something else TBC on the Wednesday. Well it seemed simple
Anyway, after spending most of Thursday night sorting my gear out, I had the obligatory dismal sleep and got up in the middle of the night to force down porridge and coffee.
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- Dear God NO
Friday 20th Jan
Sgor Gaoith
14.3km
920m ascent
4h 48mFriday's "easy" hill was to be Sgor Gaoith. The forecast had improved and MWIS promised a superb day. We met up at the usual SG start point after a couple of road navigation errors due to the dualling roadworks, and the forecast didn't seem to be living up to it's billing....
A dull start
However the walk-in is on an excellent path and gains height fairly gradually. Before long we were in the open corrie, across the burn and climbing out of the cloud. We had a full-on cloud inversion
Above the clouds
After a while the path cuts right and heads for (I assume) the bealach with Carn Ban Mor, however we decided to head straight for the summit up the steep heathery slope. This was hardish work and sheltered from any breeze, it felt like we were walking in mid-summer. As more height was gained, the views continued to improve.
Our intended descent route and the monadhliaths beyond
I'd known the views off this mountain's summit were pretty special, even so, nothing really prepares for the change from the somewhat benign final approach to what looks like an uneventful bump in the plateau like this:
Before....
To the incredible summit views of Sgor Gaoith's cliffs plunging a couple of thousand feet right down to Loch Einich.
After
Summit view down to Loch Einich
Conditions were absolutely perfect at the summit. There was hardly a breath of breeze, glorious sunshine and glorious views with a cloud inversion to top it off. Not surprisingly we spent quite some time there.
View back south from the summit
Towards Mullach Clach a'Bhlair
Eventually we dragged ourselves off the summit and head back down via Meall Buidhe and Geal Charn (a previous munro). We couldn't be bothered with Sgoran Dubh Mor. These two hills are pretty rocky affairs with little sign of a path for long stretches, however they afforded us continually good views
The return route, Meall Buidhe and (yet another) Geal Charn
Geal Charn's summit shelter, looking North.
After this summit, it's pretty much a case of heading NW, then SW down a pathless steep slope to eventually regain the outward path, although it's not as bad as it sounds, with the terrain being perfectly manageable (even for someone with a dodgy knee). Only the final couple of hundred metres to the path were anywhere near boggy or unpleasant.
Heading down into the cloud from Geal Charn
Once back down, it's a simple couple of K back to the car park on the excellent outward path. The low cloud and sunshine combination made for some lovely scenes in the forest however. This one is probably my favourite.
Invereshie Forest
Sgor Gaoith really is a wonderful mountain and one of the finest of the cairngorms. It's definitely worth saving for a good day.
Afterwards we made for Inverness to stock up on supplies (alcohol) and then onto the Ullapool road to get to the Forestway Bunkhouse. Although it's capacity is only 8 people, it's an excellent base and Ian, the proprietor knows the surrounding hills very well.
I stopped off to catch the sunset on a still Loch Glascarnoch, which in the right conditions has a lovely view of An Teallach.
Sunset on Loch Glascarnoch
After unloading what seemed to be enough kit to last a fortnight at the bunkhouse, it was time to completely annihilate a pizza courtesy of Inverness Tesco and enjoy the free beer supplied to guests
Later on the skies were crystal clear so I headed round to Braemore Junction to try the new camera out on night skies. This is looking towards Dundonnell, with the outline of a distant An Teallach.
An Teallach & Milky Way
Saturday 21st Jan
Beinn Dearg, Cona' Mheall, Meall nan Ceaprachean, Eididh nan Clach Geala
28.1km
1757m
10h 26mThis was to be the weekend's biggie. A late check of the forecast on Friday night confirmed a good, if somewhat windy day in prospect, so an early start was required and we duly made the short drive down to the start point at Inverlael at 8am, meeting up with another walker, Dan, who'd arranged to join us for this circuit. Looking forward to a straightforwards walk-in, there was slight concern when the sign at the car park warned us of an aggressive Highland Bull which might charge at walkers
However we safely made it to the forested section without the need to take up temporary short-lived careers as matadors, and then eased our way out and up into the long Gleann na Sguaib itself. It was still pretty dark and we were blocked from sunrise by the bulk of Beinn Dearg's outlying ridges, it was shaping up to be a lovely morning though.
Gleann na Sguaib
The path, as described by almost everyone who walks it, gradually eases it's way right up to the bealach below Beinn Dearg at just over 800m. On the way it passes some nice waterfalls and a couple of lochans, before emerging at the spectacular boulder-strewn bealach.
One of several waterfalls
Heading to Coire Mathair Lathail
Lochan Lathail
Bealach an Lochain Uaine with Cona' Mheall behind
After a brief food stop, we decided to climb Beinn Dearg first. It was the biggest and steepest ascent and promised excellent views. We also got a close look at Destitution Wall, a haunting reminder of the harsh treatment and conditions endured by starving crofters who built it. It's certainly quite a humbling thought that whilst we were slowly ascending Beinn Dearg in comfortable, warm clothing, the wall we were climbing beside was built in the 1840s by people who had to do so in order to actually eat some food.
Destitution Wall on the ascent of Beinn Dearg
The Assynt Hills appear....
Rob in particular was struggling, eventually realising that the sleeping pill he'd taken the night before was most likely still in his system, and probably the reason he had a heart rate of 60bpm whilst climbing a steep hill
We did however make the summit in fairly good time. The views, as hoped, were absolutely awesome, in all directions.
An Teallach
The Fannichs and Fisherfield
Seana Braigh and inversions to the north
On the summit!
More food (and views) were enjoyed, before we headed back down. We decided to skirt the 884 point en-route to Cona' Mheall, and dumped the rucksacks at it's foot before heading up what a was a fairly easy boulderfield.
Passing Loch a'Choire Ghranda
Back to the magnificent Beinn Dearg
Cona' Mheall's bouldery slopes, looking towards Meall nan Ceapraichean
There's a path most of the way up, however we broke off from it to make a bee-line for the summit, spotting a small group of Ptarmigan on the way. The mild spell having made things a bit trickier for them as they were now in white plumage, with virtually no snow to hide away in.
Ptarmigan
We soon summited Cona' Mheall, the day's second munro, and again with wonderful views in all directions, took a few photos and nipped back down to the bags as more food was calling. Large boulderfields are my favourite type of ascent, descending them however is a little less fun
Cona' Mheall summit
We were soon back at the bags and after a short scran break headed off for Meall nan Ceapraichean, the third munro of this excellent quartet. This involves a small ascent of an intervening bump before gaining the slopes of the munro itself. Thankfully Ceapraichean looks, and is the easiest ascent of the day, and we were soon on the summit, with fine views of the day's efforts so far, and a cracking vista out over Loch Broom to Ullapool and beyond. The whole area had been bathed in almost golden light throughout the day, and I was unsurprisingly in my element. Pleasingly we'd now done about 80% of the ascent, displeasingly we'd only done just over half the distance
Meall nan Ceapraichean
Views to Ullapool and beyond
On the downside it was now pretty cold so we decided to get a move on to the bealach below Eididh nan Clach Geala for a final food stop before pushing on to the last ascent. Following the route recommendations to head along to the other summit then take a NE line to the bealach, we eventually picked up a path and followed it to the low point, between two lochans.
Un-named Lochan below Eididh nan Clach Geala
Sitting down for a snack was easy, getting up again not so much
We pushed on however and for some weird reason about halfway up I felt fitter than I had all day and made a quick ascent to the first of the first of the two summit cairns (I believe this one is actually the munro summit). We headed over to the other one "just in case" and because it offered tremendous views.
All four of today's summits in one shot
Later afternoon light on the Assynt mountains
It was tough to tear ourselves away from this final summit as the views were quite sensational, however we wanted to hit the path while there was still light. We followed the ridge line as far as a wee lochan before dropping down further across heathery terrain to find an excellent path.
Eididh nan Clach Geala bathed in light from the setting sun
The early stages of a long, long walk out.
The walk out from the last summit is a long way, by my reckoning nearly five miles, and having walked the previous day the soles of my feet were a little tender to say the least
Progress was hampered as the path was frozen sheet ice in many places, though I miraculously avoided a comedy-cuts fall and eventually made it back to the car, desperately looking forward to some food and a few beers. This was a superb outing and one that will live long in the memory.
Sunday 22nd Jan
Am Faochagach
14.8km
756m
5h 12mWe were joined by Graham for this one, "fresh" from staying up all night to support his team-mates at the Strathpuffer. After picking him up on an absolutely baltic morning in Contin, we decided to get Am Faochagach (from now on referred to as AF as it's not only difficult to say, it's a right bugger to type) out of the way
We parked up at the suggested start point at Torrandhu Bridge, before following a fairly easy path. Thankfully this part of the walk was almost entirely frozen, as doing this walk after a thaw would be nothing short of purgatory. Then there's the fun of the river crossing. The stepping stones were completely iced over, so we headed west in a futile search for an easier crossing, eventually arriving at the outflow of Loch a'Gharbhrain, where although not shallow enough to keep the boots on, it at least looked OK for a barefoot crossing
Obviously this was ridiculously cold and I think I may have set a new world record for the number of utterances of "F***'S SAKES" within a 60 second period whilst crossing this river, nearly in tears. After quickly drying my feet, and getting some heat back into them again, I realised I hadn't noticed there was a lovely view of the Deargs from here.
Reflections on Loch a'Gharbhrain
In terms of views, that was as interesting as this got. The rest of the walk is pretty much a case of picking up an at time muddy path up onto the ridge and following a faint ATV track pretty much right to the summit dome of AF. Again, thankfully, most of this terrain was frozen, making for easier and dryer progress.
Gaining the ridge
Nearing the summit dome
View from the summit to the Deargs
We reversed the route until at the bottom of the ascent/descent from the ridge, instead following the more trodden path to the eastern part of the Abhain Gharbhrain, then losing it in peat hags, somehow crossing the river with dry feet using partially submerged stepping stones and making it back to the car.
In all honesty, I'm unlikely to be rushing back to AF
We celebrated our final night in warm and comfortable accommodation by drinking some beer and stupidly eating Stagg Dynamite Chilli, a tactical error which could have had grave consequences in the middle of nowhere the following day
Monday 23rd Jan
Maol Chean Dearg
9.74km
828m
4h 08mIt was now time to leave relative luxury and head to the Coire Fionnaraich Bothy. We had originally planned to tackle Moruisg and it's demoted neighbour first, but after seeing an excellent forecast for today, decided to get into the bothy quickly and climb Maol Chean Dearg instead. The forecast was expected to be dreadful for the following couple of days.
After a taxing walk-in carrying a LOT of stuff we settled into the bothy for a quick bite to eat, then headed back onto the path to Maol Chean Dearg. Other than a short boggy section, it's an excellent path pretty much all the way to the 587m bealach. On the way we saw Con-Fionn, the huge rock used by a giant to tether his hunting dogs.
Con Fionn
The path ascends at a reasonable gradient, all the time offering increasingly fine views, especially of Sgorr Ruadh.
Sgorr Ruadh
Fuar Tholl
Maol Chean Dearg comes into view
It was again, for the third day in four, absolutely glorious weather, and our target for the day, bathed in sunshine, looked very inviting. Even then, the view when arriving at the bealach is pretty jaw-dropping. An Ruadh Stac almost jumps out at you, walk ten yards along the path and there's a great view of Ben Damh. What a place to be on such a day. Not surprisingly we stopped here for a bit.
Ben Damh
I've stopped for lunch in worse places
The ascent. Do we have to?
Yes we did
The ascent from here was initially punishing on steep scree (not my favourite surface), and the change in conditions only 120m higher was marked. It was now extremely windy, the rocks covered in a thin snow covering and absolutely freezing. We'd also noticed hazy/clag on it's way so had to push on at a decent pace.
A bit wintrier now...
I almost didn't notice, but on turning around to have a look behind me, An Ruadh Stac looked utterly sensational, as if the dramatic winter light wasn't enough, the cloud and a shaft of sunlight conspired to give a great view.
An Ruadh Stac looking dramatic
I climbed a bit higher, and still the corbett looked incredible.
An Ruadh Stac and it's shaft of sunlight
North to Glen Torridon
I'd have happily watched that for hours, but time and the fact that it was freezing and I was struggling to feel my fingers using the camera were a bit of an issue so I got the winter gloves on and pushed up the final bouldery ascent. Not as enjoyable as my usual bouldery ascents as the rocks were very icy and slippy. I immediately thought what fun descending was going to be
Eventually we made the flatter summit plateau and made for the massive shelter cairn. The views, as promised, were pretty awesome. An entire panorama of Torridonian mountains laid out before us in perfect and dramatic late afternoon winter light.
Liathach and Beinn Eighe
MCD summit cairn
Torridon Village with Beinn Alligin and Beinn Dearg behind
Liathach
As incredible as the views were, it was time to make a move. The summit was being whipped by strong gusts of icy cold wind, and the thought of a warm fire in the bothy were also pretty encouraging. We managed to descend without incident, despite the combined will of strong wind gusts and icy rocks presenting a wee challenge. Once on the path we made very quick time back to the superbly maintained Coire Fionnaraich Bothy.
Unfortunately I made the tactical error of drinking too much coffee and therefore not falling asleep before the two snorers. I think i got about two hours of sleep
The weather the following morning was pretty grim so we decided to call it a day and head home, to bring an end to five absolutely wonderful days in the north west. I can't wait to come back here for a week in May
