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Spring hols are usually a lottery when it comes to weather. We had good ones (multi-Munro bagging spree in sunny, crispy conditions), so-so ones (a few hills here and there in low cloud) and disastrous ones (broken car, flu-like infections, weather from hell). Therefore, we were ready for anything this year... Didn't expect loads of snow on higher ground, but hoped it would not rain constantly... We got something in-between. It wasn't a total disaster but weather was far from good for hillwalking. It was either very strong winds and heavy showers or low, milky cloud and no views. Only one day was sunny but very gusty on the summit
Plus with the current snow meltdown, all rivers are in spate, as a result, a couple of remote Corbett excursions had to be postponed. Of course, we always have plans A, B, C, D for different circumstances, and this time it was plan C in most cases
I'm still asking myself, looking at my statistics, how the hell did we manage so many summits, in all that wind and rain?...
Stats for March hols:
Corbetts: 3
Grahams: 7
Km walked: 92.4
Ascent total: 5098m
Most of our trips covered easier hills, but even climbing up a Graham in 30-40mph wind can be a struggle, especially if your companion is constantly complaining about his boots rubbing or his rucksack falling apart
But in the end, we are very happy about what we had done, we enjoyed every single trip despite some foul conditions. No new Munros, but some really good lower hills
I once heard somebody say "If you are ready to drive 100 miles in bad weather to bag an obscure Graham, climb to the summit, see no views, get wet and cold, but still feel happy about it - you are a true addict."
It's what we are, me and Kevin. Hillwalkoholics.
Now to the first dose of the drug...
The first trip, on Saturday the 11th, was to the far north, where the weatherman said, we could expect some sunshine in the afternoon. We wanted a new hill, so the two options were Beinn Direach and Carn an Tionail circuit or a slightly longer walk to Sabhal Beag. Decided on the former and I must say, we hit the jackpot. "Our" two Grahams cleared nicely for us, whereas Sabhal Beag stayed cloudy. Lucky us
The route we took was a classic traverse of the two hills, starting from West Merkland. Apart from some boggy ground Spongebob Squarepants would be proud of, they presented no problems - and what we got in return was priceless views and some superb ridgewalking on Carn an Tionail.
Parking in West Merkland can be a pain in the £$^&*, there is some space by a gate just left of the farm. When we arrived, one car was already parked and the owner was just leaving, heading for Ben Hee (we saw him later again, climbing up the Corbett). We managed to squeeze in nicely:
To begin with, it's easy walking on a good track. I was a bit disappointed to see cloud so low, but we kept fingers crossed that the weatherman was not lying about the sunny spells later on...
Allt an Albannach was high and it would be tricky to cross, but I did my research the day before and I knew there was a bridge somewhere up the glen... if we could find it
In fact, the bridge can hardly be seen from the track as you walk in. After about a mile, we spotted another track branching left and here it was, our river crossing:
The bridge is at NC 393346.
Allt an Albannach from the bridge:
As we gained height on the wet, yucky slopes of Sail na Glaise, we noticed more cloud pushing towards us from the south. They carried showers as well, so at some point we stopped to dig up waterproofs. Kevin was swearing at his old rucksack, adjusting the weight on his shoulders every five minutes, so I suggested he should shut up and get a new one (we had the Webtogs voucher after all!). It took us longer than expected to climb the initial 300m, but somehow, being slow worked to our advantage!
Waterproof Panther gazing at cloudy Ben Hee:
We followed a wet ATV track up into the clag:
Loch an t-Seilg and Loch an Tuim Bhuidhe:
At about 600m, the ground became rocky and less Spongebob-like, easier walking now, plus some interesting shapes began to emerge from the mist:
...the suddenly, like with a wave of a magic wand, the clag lifted over the summits and we were walking along a fantastic cliff, with some superb views around. At the same time, wind strengthened up, but we were in "who cares about gusts" mood at the moment
Hooray, it will be clag free today!
Looking back to Loch Merkland and the Assynt Munros behind:
Ben Hee and the view down to the glen from the edge of the cliffs:
Panther studying the overhangs
View back along the vertical ridge:
Panorama to the south, cloud not so eager to lift from the higher hills at the moment:
Ben Hope:
The ridge of Carn an Tionail and the round shape of Beinn Direach in the middle:
Beinn Direach and Ben Hee:
Ben Loyal, very dark today:
Beinn Griam Mor and Beg:
Having spent good 15 minutes wandering along the cliffs and snapping photos, we headed for the first top, A'Ghlaise. The summit of the Graham is another kilometer north and it's a superb high walk with views to remember! Even on a windy day with scattered cloud we still enjoyed it!
The summit of Carn an Tionail from A'Ghlaise:
Loyal and Hope:
As we continued along the wide ridge, my attention was drawn to the NE face of Carn Dearg (a lower top of Corbett Meallan Liath Coire Mhic Dhughaill). We had climbed this Corbett a couple of years ago, but this was a totally different perspective, especially with snow still clinging to the step face:
A'Ghlaise from near the summit cairn:
Ben Hee:
Ben Klibreck peeking from behind:
Kevin and Lucy on the summit of Carn an Tionail:
The summit was far too windy for a longer break, so we descended about 50m to a rocky outcrop (looked to me like one of Avon tors). After warming our bodies up with hot tea, we continued the circular by descending SE to Bealach nan Rath. Views were even better now, especially back south towards the starting point:
Surprisingly, snow was quite deep in places and we were hit by very strong gusts of wind - it was pushing us sideways and we struggled all the way down. The glen and the col acted like a wind tunnel!
Wind itself cannot be seen but note the waves on the puddle!
I'm not sure how Beinn Direach qualifies to be a Graham, I'm suspicious about the 150m reascent from Bealach nan Rath
It didn't take us long to hop up the bouldery slopes to the second target Graham, where we could stay for a bit longer as wind, though still strong, was much lower than in the air tunnel between the hills.
Happy me posing with Ben Hope behind:
Cloud clearing from Cranstackie:
Lucy on her 27th Graham
Beinn Direach, though insignificant in shape and ascent, is still a great viewpoint. I was fascinated with the surrounding landscape. Funny, so many times I have walked the hills of Sutherland and Assynt, but they never cease to amaze me. There is something not-of this-earth about them...
This pano shows the whole length of Carn an Tionail ridge:
Kevin's 62nd Graham:
Eastern pano:
Zoomed Ben Loyal:
To return to the track, we descended to the col between Beinn Direach and Meall a'Chleirich, and then skirted around the lower slopes of the latter, aiming for what we thought was the driest line. Soon we discovered, there is no such thing as a"dry line" in case of this area, we had to jump over quite a few peat hags and boggy puddles, but landed back on the track without sinking in a swamp. Weather has improved indeed and the forecast sunny spells turned into proper, bright afternoon.
Oh what a nice, sunny day!
I loved these two wee Grahams, especially Carn an Tionail, and I would happily return to them for more Sutherland mountain porn
A good route for anybody, just don't forget you gaiters
We started our March adventures on a high note, hoping it would get better from now... We forgot it's Scotland
and anything can happen. The next day we were forced to take plan D and climb a half day Graham in the far west. Might sound boring, but it was far from it. TR to follow soon
