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Since we were starting the walk around the time of high tide (meant to be the most likely time to see dolphins feeding off the point) I drove straight to Chanonry Point to park there. This parking area has expanded a lot since the first time I came which is helpful since its reputation as the best place in the UK to see dolphins can make it very crowded. The water level was up to the sea wall so we took the path to the left of the bungalow.
Fort George from Chanonry Point
Across the bay to Rosemarkie
A new information area has been built for the benefit of visitors with picnic tables and information boards.
Information board
I've been here many times to walk the dogs and have seen dolphins a few times but didn't see any today. Often when I've come there has been a crowd of folk standing with huge camera lenses so it didn't seem a particularly good sign there wasn't a soul on the beach when we got there! One time Chris Packham was there. I didn't see dolphins that day either but it was quite entertaining watching Chris and his film crew waiting for something to happen.
Bottlenose dolphins on a previous occasion
Lighthouse
Beach walk to Rosemarkie
We set off along the sand and then diverted to the path along the dunes. As we neared Rosemarkie we saw a number of Brent geese feeding at the water's edge.
Brent geese
The next photo was taken a couple of weeks later (on Saturday 25th March) which shows a surprisingly empty beach (considering the kind of day it was) and a beautiful sky.
Rosemarkie beach
Road along seafront
We walked to the end of the road and turned left up past the Plough Inn and along the Rosemarkie to Cromarty Road with its pretty row of whitewashed cottages.
Cottages
Before turning left up the Swallow's Den path we had a choice to make. My two companions had never been to the waterfalls in Fairy Glen so since it wasn't much of a detour we decided to take it.
Entrance to Fairy Glen
For contrast here's Moira and dogs on a previous occasion in October 2014
Fairy Glen in autumn
Lower falls October 2014
Lower falls carrying more water March 2017
But the autumn colours are lovely so it's a choice of going when the falls are more spectacular in spring or when the surroundings are more attractive in autumn.
Upper falls October 2014
Upper falls March 2017
Fairy Glen bridge October 2014
For speed of return we crossed the bridge and climbed the steps to the Cromarty road and walked back down to the start of the path to Swallow's Den which was, as predicted, muddy in places. We had planned to stop for a snack somewhere along this stretch with a view over the firth but were out again on the minor road at the other side before we found anywhere suitable!
Chanonry Point from Swallow's Den
The road took us steeply down to the centre of Fortrose where we were easily lured into the very pleasant Fortrose Cafe for Cappacino and Rocky Road to set us up for the final stage of the walk. We took a slight detour off the main road to have a look at the ruins of Fortrose cathedral and then followed the WH route down to the harbour.
Fortrose cathedral and a tree that looks almost human
Fortrose harbour
From the harbour we climbed the hill and turned right, passing Fortrose Academy on the left. I heard from a former pupil there that less than exciting subjects were made bearable by watching the firth for dolphins instead!
There has been a school at Chanonry since the early medieval period but the Academy itself dates from 1791. The earliest part of the present school was erected in 1891 but little now remains of the original part of the present building apart from the clock tower.
Early blossom and clock tower
Opposite the new houses on the left we turned on to a grassy path that led into Fortrose caravan park. We stayed close to the shoreline walking along the edge of the golf course, watching out for flying objects, until we reached the Chanonry Point car park where we'd left the car.
Looking west from east side of Chanonry Ness
Including the detour to the falls and visit to cafe this circuit took 4 hours and is a most enjoyable walk with much to see at every point, with only one short steep, muddy section. Highly recommended.
