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After yesterday's cracking jaunt on the the steep sided peaks further down Strathconon, today was to be more of a long trek. I had camped at the road end on the shore of Loch Beannacharain (easy for you to say), only disturbed by the odd snipe and a pair of whooper swans nearby. Overnight temperatures dropped to sub zero so that the tent flysheet was covered in a layer of ice as I emerged. Of course, the clocks had jumped forward too and my 6am alarm call was infact 5am according to my body.
As I headed past the sleepy houses of Scardroy, a tendril of coal smoke emerged from the keeper's cottage. I crunched past on the gravel track and headed southwest along the River Meig. The sun was risen, but not present in this glen due to the steep sides. I looked back and spotted this sight:
- A sleepy old stag below Creag Coire na Feola
Onwards up the glen, the track petered out to a vague ATV depression in the grass and heather. Eventually after crossing the Allt na Criche, it was time to get the feet wet. Knowing I'd have to swap boots for flip-flops, I came prepared. But I wasn't prepared for the bitterly cold snow-melt water that rushed over my toes, feet, up my shins as I splashed across the 10metres of the River Meig.
- My crossing point of the River Meig, not deep, but cold as ice
The ATV track continued up the side of the Allt an Amise into a steep defile to about 470m where it started a zig-zag onto the hill proper. The massive bulk of Maoile Lunndaidh dominated the view here, with wide snow fields stretching up to the summit dome. By 9am I had reached the summit of the first Corbett of the day - An Sidhean. The silence was beautiful, not a sound to be heard. No wind. Just miles and miles of mountains, snow and sun. And a few windfarms. Enjoy:
- Loch Monar, the north Mullardoch ridge, Pait Lodge and all fantastic mountains nearby
- Lurg Mhor (I think)
- I'm lichen this stuff, but it might be moss
- Looking norwest over the route to backache (Bac an Eich)
After a bit of food I reluctantly continued on my journey picking a line across the flatlands ahead. As I crossed the numerous snowfields I felt the sun reflecting bright and the air temperature rise, like walking into a sauna. Near a shimmering mirage in the distance I spied a couple of birds dotting about on the snows. They rose at my approach and called to each other. A pair of Golden Plovers.
- Golden Plover
After the best hour of the day in this sunny wilderness, I descended a muddy slope to the Fox Bridge and took a break at 550m before climbing the aching back of Bac an Eich. From below I could see a large herd of oblivious deer grazing peacefully in the sun spread across the hillside. I tried to keep below their sightline but soon enough they had spotted me (more likely smelt me) and were off racing in a line to sanctuary.
- Bac and Eich summit trig (one of the stone type)
The guidebook routes from here were not appealing - return to the Fox Bridge - why?? Bac an Eich offers two north westerly ridges to descend; I chose the easterly and once it petered out I crossed north to join an unmarked path descending Creag Achadh an Eas back to the River Meig.
- Almost back to the glenfloor
- Crossing the bridge over the River Meig at Corrievuic (dryshod)
As I passed the keeper's cottage, the smoke of a barbecue wafted across the path and a kid fished for frogs in a nearby stream. At the car, the temperature gauge read 18°C. Scorchio!
I have had good days in the hills before but this one will remain in memory for a while.