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At long last, on the second last day of my easter trip back home we had good conditions ahead of us and could finally get up Goatfell, which would be a first for Y, who had chosen this to be her first big hill on Arran, and only her second (third if you count walking to just below the Cobbler summit years ago) Corbett she had climbed after Ben Vrackie last year.
Knowing it was easter Monday and wanting to avoid the standard route from Cladach, which was not only longer but would also be mobbed, we set off for Corrie and I planned to head along Stacach to bag Mullach Buidhe (having been up North Goatfell a few years back via the ridge) before returning down Coire Lan back to the start.
The only issue here was that Stacach isn't exactly easy for a relative novice and Y hadn't managed to finish climbing Beinn an Lochain a few weeks back, accusing me of trying to kill her as she couldn't get past the steep path at the shoulder! She could have but we played it safe and I made the summit alone. I knew she wouldn't fancy scrambling over the large granite tors on the ridge leaving the bypass path option which is pretty exposed in places, but I was also confident that with caution and guidance she could do it. Plus i'd be the mountain goat/mule for this walk and be carrying my large rucksack with all of our gear, lunch, spare everything etc. (thanks Rockhopper!) so she would be free of that burden.
I nipped along to the Co-op for sandwiches in the morning and the summit of Goatfell was still covered in clouds as it had been when I woke up and looked out the bedroom window. Not ideal but the forecast said it would be a nice afternoon and clear up.
20170417_101142 by
Chris Mac, on Flickr
No worries, we'll just take our time and if we start the walk around midday then we should be in a summit clear of clouds!
After getting organising it was a quick 10 minute drive to park outside Corrie Hall where we set off along the road to the start of the hike, which showed Goatfell free of cloud cover in the distance, result:
20170417_115814 by
Chris Mac, on Flickr
Up the single track road it's an easy start and well signposted:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
It's always good when your target is visible in the distance:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Turn right from track to path:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Start heading up the hill, go through deer fence number one, then on at a steeper gradient towards fence number 2:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
The path is excellent the whole way, good work Rangers of the NTS:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
The Corrie Burn cascades down the hillside and further round to the left the crags of Maol Donn are in view:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Behind us the view quickly opens up and it's a great day for it, the Firth of Clyde very still and Ben Lomond and some bigger hills to the north starting to appear:
20170417_124913 by
Chris Mac, on Flickr
As we reach the top of the hill path, Goatfell, Stacach and North Goatfell are more visible, with Mullach Buidhe summit hidden to the right and Am Binnein far right:
20170417_125550 by
Chris Mac, on Flickr
Keep heading up the path and you'll soon reach the crossing point over the burn to then head up towards the shoulder of Goatfell:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
We spot the Isle of Arran sailing into Brodick Bay on the left, beyond Maol Donn's scenic crags:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
As we climb the nicely made bouldery path up the shoulder Y only has a few breaks and I take advantage to admire the surroundings, Holy Isle and Mullach Mor, Clauchlands Point and Dun Fionn all now visible to the south:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
There is a steady stream of ant-like walkers making their way up to Goatfell's summit:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Stacach looking good with someone traversing along the top...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Along with a few people on the summit of North Goatfell, good work!
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Mullach Buidhe is now almost in view to the right and you can see the path going down Coire Lan which we will be taking for the descent:
20170417_131827 by
Chris Mac, on Flickr
Looking back down:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
On the left, as we climb further up towards the top of the shoulder, the Ferry is almost in Brodick:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Doing great Y, now bounding ahead as I fanny about taking photos!
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
After an hour and a half of walking we've come fairly far and the views across the Clyde are great:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
We're quickly up to the top of the shoulder and the view opens up to Brodick down below on the left, the Mull of Kintyre south east and mighty Goatfell/Windy Hill up ahead. I prefer the old gaelic translation of Gaoithe Bheinn as it's more accurate than the newer Norse translation, there aren't any mountain goats up here apart from me!
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
We stop for a breather, time to enjoy the views...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Holy Isle and Clauchland Hills:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Brodick, Brodick Bay, Whiting Bay in the far distance:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Dun Fionn which I climbed last year, a cracking viewpoint!
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Fishermans walk down below at the mouth of the Rosa Burn, a sore point for locals after Charlie Ford sold half the beach to Arabs for their golf courses and the erosion is now awful...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
I spot my house down below then we continue on:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
After another panorama opportunity... or two!
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
On the right as we ascend, Mullach Buidhe's pointy summit is now visible, the final peak i've yet to bag on the range before we head for the descent down Coire Lan, if I can get Y through Stacach that is...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
I pose for a pic on the large rock just down from the cairn where the main path meets the path from Meall Breac (the shoulder):
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
We continue on as the climb gets steeper and two walkers ahead of me are taking photos, then as I approach they ask if I can help them take their anvil down the hill!! I laugh and they ask why on earth an anvil is on the path to which I explain that last year a guy took it up Goatfell for charity, a noble cause, but then left it at the summit essentially littering our main mountain top! I say it looks like the passing walkers have been moving it down bit by bit and we chat briefly about the hills and walking on Arran. They head off and I do my part and move the anvil... about 5 inches along... it's very heavy!! If you are up there soon then please take a shot, if we all do then it will soon make it back to lower ground!
20170417_135730 by
Chris Mac, on Flickr
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Onwards we go as the boulders and rocks get bigger and ahead we can see streams of walkers making their way up and down....
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
The ten to two ferry has now left...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Might have to tweet these to CalMac, they do enjoy such shots, although being old fashioned and getting on a bit now i'm still a bit resistant to the massive Oban style Ferry Terminal being built... I remember the tiny one and getting on and off the ferry on a tiny wooden gangway...
20170417_140201 DSCF9457 by
Chris Mac, on Flickr
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
The Firth of Clyde is still like glass making for some great shots. We continue on... erm, after a quick break!
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
It's great fun making your way up this final steep, boulder strewn section, chatting to lots of tourists, one a Munro bagger who was saying that he rated the view from the summit of Goatfell as one of the best he has seen! I tell him of my 4 Corbetts in one day adventure a few years back and that Caisteal Abhail summit is an even better view in my opinion, especially for the north face of Cir Mhor... to which his partner glares at him as if to say no we're not doing that one tomorrow after his eyes lit up!!!
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Stacach and Mullach Buidhe are edging closer on the right as we get higher up, and the view south over Brodick and the east side of the island is only getting better.
Despite a fair few breathers Y is doing grand and we're edging ever closer to the summit...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
We take the path that leads a bit left and south of the summit. Y has another quick break to admire the view over to the Mull of Kintyre to the south west, with A'Chruach, the boggy, lump of a Marilyn in the middle of Arran in view too although you can't make out the summit in this photo, it's too flat and round at the top! Ard Bheinn has a much clearer profile but misses out on main Marilyn status by just 6 ft/2m! A shame really but in saying the A'Chruach, despite no path and peat hag/bog trapse to reach the top, is one of the finest viewpoints on the island:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
We skip back round to take the main path to the top:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
It's pretty busy as expected...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
...but oh so worth the effort and the visibility is brilliant today! I start with some close shots of the neighbouring peaks, first Beinn Nuis and Beinn a' Chliabhain:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Beinn Tarsuinn:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
A'Chir and it's brilliant ridge which i'm saving for another day, with Beinn Bharrain/Mullach Buidhe and Beinn Bhreac behind it, Arran's only Graham which the Weasels will have compleated the Grahams on earlier today!
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Unlike the last time I was up here, the Paps of Jura are almost fully visible, beyond Cir Mhor's summit and Meall nan Damh:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Cir Mhor:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Caisteal Abhail:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Ceum na Caillich:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Paps:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
The summit is pretty mobbed so we decide to head to the side and I spend a while taking
multiple panoramic shots, this one being one of my favourites, well done Y, you made it!
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
We have our lunch as I snap away, thoroughly soaking in the views. Beinn Bhreac is just a top of Beinn Bharrain/Mullach Buidhe but like A'Chruach has one of the best views on the island, taking in all of the Pirnmill Hills to the south and the Corbetts where we are now. Recommended. Below is the north section of the A'Chir ridge looking formidable:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Cir Mhor again, on the bottom right is the very steep path down the the Saddle, one to go down instead of up if you ask me!
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
And the superb summit... of which you can see the chimney directly off it which Iain and I both downclimbed when we left it a few years back and the likes of Alteknacker and many other scramblers have thoroughly enjoyed. Not for the faint hearted though...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Caisteal Abhail summit tors, simply beautiful and more scrambling fun:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
The Witches Step, I have a feindish plan on doing this and several other tops i've not been up yet in one big day out and hope to do so later this summer...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
To the north, North Goatfell, with Stacach to the right and Suidhe Fhearghas in shadow behind it:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
To the right of it is Mullach Buidhe with the Arrochar Alps in the distance beyond:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Done with lunch, by now the crowds have cleared a bit so we return to the summit and take advantage of some clear photo opportunities:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Y is enjoying herself... for now!!
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
It's hard not to take photo after photo since my last time up Goatfell was at the end of a 4 Corbett epic day out and I had little energy left to do so, along with less light, so i'm going nuts at this point as the light, conditions and visibility are just perfect!
Mighty Beinn Tarsuinn with all of it's ridges, a Corbett top and 2 Graham tops, in full glory:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
The other 2 Corbetts:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
I get Y to re-enact the same shot Iain took of me 2 years ago...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
While she returns the favour of me on the trig point:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
We've finally had our fill so we decide to move on as it's a little bit chiller now, time to tackle Stacach, this should be interesting, i've a feeling I might get into trouble for taking her this way!
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Almost immediately, as we descend the boulder field to the north of Goatfell's summit, i'm being chastised for the lack of path and boulder hopping involved.... this is mountain goat territory, no place for a princess Pomeranian!!
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
I assist on route finding, not realising the path is probably a little easier just over to the right but we make it down... and still have the large granite tors to negotiate...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Summit boulder field:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
The first part of Stacach is easy...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Then it gets a bit steeper:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
For the first big tor the path veers right as you can see below, with a fairly steep drop down to the right and a little bit of scrambling up the side. North Goatfell looks great from the south on the left hand side while Mullach Buidhe is on the right:
20170417_153526 by
Chris Mac, on Flickr
Dissatisfaction is again expressed at this point but just the once before the first bypass path is easily tackled. Maybe this will go better than I expected...
I take another pic of Beinn Tarsuinn in full, definitely it's best side from this angle as all the tops are clearly visible, and it has a plethora of them, one of the most underrated Arran Corbetts if you ask me plus some of the rock architecture on it is amazing:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
I don't see a clear bypass path to the right, in post picture analysis I see it from some earlier zoom shots and recall having the same problem coming the other direction with Iain the last time, so I opt for the left bypass of the final massive tor:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
You get to a point where you can scramble up and along some rocks which i'm well up for but I reel in my own fun and return to the task at hand, getting Y across here safely...
Knowing this way I feel she can do it and the path drops down slightly into Dearg Choirein, a little bit loose too and again dissatisfaction is expressed along with a second statement in recent weeks of "you're trying to kill me"!
I'm not of course, i'm just building character and experience and the path, although a little steep to begin with and exposed to some degree, isn't exactly the worst. Plus i'm the one carrying the big rucsack!
We take our time and I assist with a helping hand where required, Y is soon on the easier final section of path and before you know it we've negotiated the final hurdle and pop out between the final tor and North Goatfell:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Despite the accusation of trying to kill her (again!) Y was an absolute trooper and managed to navigate Stacach ridge very well, building up a heck of a lot of experience while doing so and I applaud her efforts and also apologise for taking her that way, but it wasn't that bad really!
We press on, I have Mullach Buidhe to summit before we can head down into Coire Lan for the descent. We take the North Goatfell bypass path, i'm not bothered about doing it again and also don't want to disappear after what Y had just gone through, it's all about the team!
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
The way back, a nice easy finish to what has been a very enjoyable walk so far, easy going for me and a big outing for Y:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Mullach Buidhe approaches, it should only be a 10 minute pop up to the top:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
On the left the view is still spectacular, we spot a nice stone slab seat which is unfortunately already occupied! We slow our pace a little and Y says she's happy to wait while I summit the Corbett top.
At this point i'm already planning in my head a future traverse starting at Cioch na h'Oighe heading south from Glen Sannox, where we were a few days ago, to finish in Brodick for the complete Goatfell massif experience...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Luckily by the time we reach the stone slab seat the couple there have already started down the path into Coire Lan, leaving me to head up to Mullach Buidhe...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
I quicken the pace, much like I did when Y left me to summit Beinn an Lochain a few weeks back. The sleeping warrior of the Caisteal Abhail massif in full effect:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Almost there, that's not actually the summit ahead, it's a little bit behind and higher up, unfortunately at this point, as I found out to my annoyance later on, Viewranger decided to have a GPS connection issue so from the track I recorded it doesn't actually show me making the summit, instead it stops short then picks up again on the return!
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
This is the summit rock of Mullach Buidhe, pointy and overhanging Coire nam Fuaran:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
I stand atop and take some shots all around me while waving to Y way down below to the left, she would later say she wasn't happy seeing me on the summit outcrop as it is very small and exposed, but I was in my element.
Looking north east to the rest of the ridge on the way to the Devil's Punchbowl and the Maiden's Breast (Coire na Ciche and Cioch na h-Oighe) which i'll return for to do a proper traverse of in full another day:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Directly north is Suidhe Fhearghas, Creag Ghlas Laggan, Loch Fyne and the Kyles of Bute:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
To the south east, the ridge down to Am Binnein, the Firth of Clyde and Holy Isle again:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Goatfell from the north... unfortunately it's ugly side by far, looking like a big Ben More lump, so much nicer from the other angles:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
North Goatfell's ridge from the Saddle, a very enjoyable and exposed in parts traverse with Beinn Tarsuinn and it's amazing collection of tops and ridges behind it:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Apologies for the ridiculous number of photos in this report, but it had to be done:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Satisfied to have my remaining Goatfell Corbett top in the bag, I head back down...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Soaking in the splendid view for one last time...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
North Goatfell ahead, then turn left:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Down into Coire Lan:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Once on level ground progress is fast along the excellent path:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Already we're basking not only in sunshine but in the fun we've had doing this walk and taking this route, it may not be the biggest or best but it has had a little bit of everything and Y is still smiling, so i'm not in the bad books for the ridge traverse which is great, I had a feeling it would turn out alright!
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
On the path down the side of the Corrie Burn, we decide to stop off for a break at a lovely wee rockpool with views across the Clyde and towards Maol Donn:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
A large sail boat appears, adding to the atmosphere:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
It's a great wee spot, definitely one to come back to and go for a dip in on a hot summers day.
Behind us is the pointy summit of Goatfell, sun blazing behind and starting to set:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
After a good 20 minutes or so of chilling and enjoying the surroundings, looking north to Ben Lomond and other hills, we set off again and try to escape the approaching shadows from the setting sun...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
This image can't quite convey how beautiful the sunlight through the branches was...
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
Fairwell Maol Donn's nice northern crags:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
The descent back down the excellent path is very fast, through the woods and we're soon on tarmac again:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
A few more bends to go:
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Chris Mac, on Flickr
At the final bend we meet the couple who had been a wee bit ahead of us sitting for a rest and start chatting, they are from the Lake District and have thoroughly enjoyed the same route we did. We blether for a bit about walking and the guy has a back problem which means he needs the occasional rest but he's soldiered in impressive fashion and has done a pretty decent walk with a pending operation still to come to sort out the problem.
We say cheerio and soon reach the main road, heading left and back towards the car next to the Corrie Hall, where i've DJ'd at several 21st's and 30th's in years gone by.
The couple pass us as i'm peeling my socks off and they laugh at this comment, then we pass them in the car on the way to the Corrie Hotel again, just along the road. We decide to stay local again and head in to get some well earned grub to refuel and say hi to Lottie the local dog as we did a few days before after our walk up Glen Sannox. The Lake District couple come in for a pint and I get chatting to them again, more hillwalking blethering as I read out the stats from Viewranger and recommend it, apart from it not recording my Mullach Buidhe summit which I would discover later!
I say how we've been down to their neck of the woods a few times over the last couple of years to do 4 Wainwrights and they say they have done them all but that they are not all worth doing!
I'm sure i'll give it a good shot over the years though, regardless, it's like a mini-Scotland down there! They were a good laugh and I wish we had met up with them earlier in the walk, maybe our paths will cross again another time, we didn't even exchange names as often happens when casually blethering about mountains and walking!! So if you are reading this, hope to see you both again another time.
As usualafter a big walk we downed our grub in record time before the quick drive back to Brodick. So after attempt number 2 at "trying to kill Y" i'm still unsuccessful!
Maybe she's getting the hang of this mountain walking malarkey after all...