Completing the Grahams on Arran
Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 12:09 amArran - August 2012 - Goatfell was the start of our mountain adventures. A life transforming four and a bit years later it was to be Arran again for the last of our Grahams. Seemed a fitting full circle and as the numbers of Grahams remaining were whittled down there was no doubt it would be our last one. I had thought about delaying completion til we returned from Ireland in June, of maybe having some folk along to be with us - but in the end, I just decided to go for it at the earliest opportunity. Allison had managed to secure getting away from work on time Thursday afternoon with her boss - 2 hours to get to Ardrossan and onto the ferry seemed likely to be ok - however when I phoned to book a place on Wednesday evening, the boat was full. Now what to do? A look at timetables and maps - the Claonaig-Lochranza boat sailed at 7pm, should be plenty time to drive the 120 miles to Skipness. I had no idea how busy that ferry might be (having never taken a car to Arran on either of my 2 visits there my knowledge of the island was poor). It looked like there were plenty of spots for wildcamping near the jetty, according to google street view, if the ferry was full by the time we arrived- we'd get over the next day. As it transpired, I needn't have worried as there was only one other car on our sailing.
DSC03181 by Al, on Flickr
DSC03182 by Al, on Flickr
DSC03183 by Al, on Flickr
Got into Lochranza at 7.30 and headed for the campsite. Pitched and ate, then set off for a wander in the gloaming to the ruined castle, waves lapping peacefully on the shingle. settled down for what was a windy night in the tent - campsite nice and quiet. Friday morning - dry but windy, clag down over the tops. The forecast wasn't great, but I hoped that it might lift when we got up there.
DSC03184 by Al, on Flickr
DSC03185 by Al, on Flickr
DSC03188 by Al, on Flickr
We'd glimpsed Beinn Bharrain coming over on the boat - a long lump of a mountain dominating Arran's northwest coast, We'd read about the choice of approaches and had decided to take the left-hand ridge that promised a wee scramble then make a full traverse of the hill and finish up with the Marilyn Meall nan Damh at the northernmost end. We drove to Pirnmill and parked outside the school then set off to the start of the track. There is a concrete surfaced track for a short while that cuts off to the right through trees and becomes increasingly sinuous and muddy before opening out onto the hillside and following the Allt Gobhlach to a small weir. We could see the outlines of the two ridges enclosing Coire Roinn peeking out of the clag from time to time and made for the left hand one.
DSC03190 by Al, on Flickr
DSC03191 by Al, on Flickr
DSC03194 by Al, on Flickr
As we gained height the boulders/heather gave way to blocks of granite and we were on the ridge proper. Steep in places and also narrow - not ideal with a strong crosswind buffeting you. Anyway we progressed along without undue difficulty - there was only one slightly awkward scramble over a couple of rounded boulders with little in the way of holds, but the exposure wasn't great. It was unfortunate to have the experience hampered by clag and wind as it appeared that you could amuse yourself taking a variety of routes to the top - if you could see what you were doing. The terrain eased as we neared the summit of Mullach Buidhe (the Graham). I decided we'd head to the Simm top of Beinn Bharrain first in the hope that when we returned to Mullach Buidhe the clag would have cleared - unfortunately all that happened was that the rain started
We trotted along to claim the Simm - I was feeling quite satisfied that we'd be completing our Grahams at last in a few minutes.
DSC03196 by Al, on Flickr
DSC03198 by Al, on Flickr
Beinn Bharrain summit
DSC03200 by Al, on Flickr
Returning along the ridge to our Graham summit the weather worsened, annoying claggy rain that mists up your glasses. It was a bit of a scunner, but I've not had good weather yet when completing Munros, Munro Tops, Corbetts or Donalds, so why should it be any different. Snapped some photos of us at the trig point, then my camera drowned in the rain, so no more photos of our hill exploits I'm afraid. We walked northwards along the ridge, dropping into Bealach an Fharaidh where we found a little shelter from rain and wind to have our lunch. From here we continued along the ridge back to Beinn Bhreac and along to the east of Coirein Lochain down to the bump of Meall Bhig. Up ahead I could see our Marilyn rising steeply across Lodan Ruadh - I set off and waited for Allison at the summit cairn - her back was giving her a bit of gyp again which wasn't great.
Completion
DSC03203 by Al, on Flickr
DSC03204 by Al, on Flickr
DSC03207 by Al, on Flickr
We retraced our steps to the Meall Bhig then joined the footpath descending alongside the Uisge Soluis Mhoir down to Mid Thundergay. By this time it was sunny and blue skies - bloody typical. We walked the couple of miles back to the car, stopping for a celebratory go on the swings, rather randomly sited beside the road. Drove back to Lochranza and made a visit to the distillery to get a suitable bottle to mark our occasion. We were both hungry and set about an early tea. It was a lovely looking evening and I decided we'd take a drive down to the standing stones at Machrie Moor - Allison had been before, but I hadn't seen them. A fabulous place - there are so many sets of stone circles in a concentrated space. The stones themselves looked superb bathed in the low evening sunlight, the various mountains (Bharrain, Ard Bheinn and of course the wonderful cluster of Corbetts) surrounding us. The sky had some pyrotechnics to send our way in the shape of psychedelic clouds and glowing afterlight. I really warmed to Arran on this visit, won't be too long before we're back I think.
P1150351 by Al, on Flickr
The two ridges leading to Beinn Bharrain - fine weather now we're back at the car!
P1150352 by Al, on Flickr
On the way to Machrie Moor
P1150354 by Al, on Flickr
Beinn Bharrain from the south
P1150359 by Al, on Flickr
Fingal's Cauldron
P1150362 by Al, on Flickr
P1150363 by Al, on Flickr
P1150366 by Al, on Flickr
P1150368 by Al, on Flickr
P1150371 by Al, on Flickr
P1150373 by Al, on Flickr
P1150376 by Al, on Flickr
P1150380 by Al, on Flickr
P1150383 by Al, on Flickr
Back to the campsite, no other cars on the road. Time to crack open the whisky and have a couple to round off our day. I reckoned that we'd do another hill in the morning then set off in the early afternoon for Kinlochleven - although had it not been for the WH Meet there, I'd have stayed on Arran til the Sunday. A chilly night bit no wind, and fine sunshine when we woke. First cuckoo of the year.
P1150384 by Al, on Flickr
Packed up the tent and set off from the campsite, just past the distillery where a footpath leads into Gleann Easan Biorach. This follows the western bank of the Allt which I assume is where the distillery draws its water from - the river runs noisily through a deep channel. Our target was Beinn Bhreac (another one) which isn't visible initially walking down the glen - it's Caisteal Abhail which catches the eye. The footpath becomes wet and boggy - we cut up onto higher ground and Beinn Bhreac, speckled with lumps of granite in amongst the heather - came into view. Would be a fine spot for a summit camp - great vista of the jagged Corbetts ahead.
P1150385 by Al, on Flickr
P1150387 by Al, on Flickr
Caisteal Abhail
P1150388 by Al, on Flickr
Beinn Bhreac
P1150390 by Al, on Flickr
P1150394 by Al, on Flickr
P1150395 by Al, on Flickr
Summit Bhreac, looking to Beinn Bharrain
P1150398 by Al, on Flickr
P1150400 by Al, on Flickr
We headed off the north of Bhreac, making for Beinn Biorach and Meall Mor which gave a very enjoyable short circuit. Good views of Loch Ranza from Meall Mor, including of the ferry coming over the smooth sea. We descended steeply from Meall Mor to rejoin the footpath. Back to the campsite, collected the car and drove to the ferry terminal to wait for the next crossing. Sat in the sunshine and ate our lunch looking out over the waters.
Beinn Biorach & Meall Mor
P1150401 by Al, on Flickr
Yesterday's Marilyn - Meall nan Damh
P1150402 by Al, on Flickr
Lochranza
P1150406 by Al, on Flickr
P1150407 by Al, on Flickr
P1150410 by Al, on Flickr
The route to Oban took us along Kilmartin Glen, which Allison hadn't visited, so we made some stops - the wonderful cup and ring marked sandstone slabs at Achnabreck which have a special kind of cosmic resonance and remind me of looking out into deep space; then Temple Wood and the adjacent standing stones and linear chambered cairns; then finally Kilmartin Church with its Knights Templar engraved stones and carved ancient crosses inside the church. Well worth a visit.
Achnabreck slabs
P1150413 by Al, on Flickr
P1150414 by Al, on Flickr
Temple Wood
P1150416 by Al, on Flickr
Kilmartin Stones
P1150417 by Al, on Flickr
We arrived at a busy Kinlochleven at around 5.30, made our tea then ventured into the bunkhouse to spend an enjoyable, not very sober evening with the usual suspects. Didn't get to bed til almost 2am - far too late for an old yin like me. As a result had a lie in til after 9, getting us as most folk were leaving. The forecast seemed to be for rain from the afternoon, with most folk we spoke to doing no hills or something short. Not driving for a couple of hours after last night was probably wise, so our hill selection was made for us - Na Gruagaichean's west Top for Allison, which we could walk from the campsite to.
The tops of the hills were in clag and it was a bit of a plod for me initially - we had considered a direct assault of the southern flank, but that seemed rather steep, so an easier way - along the track towards Coire an Lochain then cutting up onto Sgurr Eilde Beag was sensibly selected instead. The wind was strong and chill, but the tops gradually cleared, and we ended up having a good weather experience.
Sgurr Eilde Mor
P1150422 by Al, on Flickr
From Sgurr eilde beag we went to the southern Top of Binnien Mor. It seemed positively rude not to nip along to the summit of Binnien Mor from here, so we did, then returned and set off along the ridge to Na Gruagaichean. First time we did this (at WH Meet in Nov 13) it was serious snow and cornicing to be negotiated - today it was an amble. Down from the summit onto loose scree to climb the west Top of na Gruagaichean and back before heading off in the standard manner and making for the track to Mamore Lodge thence back to Kinlochleven. Passed a number of foreign folk on the WHW, which I'm supposed to be walking next weekend....we'll see. A pleasant drive down the road, without a backlog of traffic on Loch Lomond shores.
P1150426 by Al, on Flickr
Binnien Mor
P1150427 by Al, on Flickr
Binnien Beag
P1150430 by Al, on Flickr
Na Gruagaichean
P1150432 by Al, on Flickr
West Top
P1150434 by Al, on Flickr
P1150436 by Al, on Flickr
P1150439 by Al, on Flickr
P1150440 by Al, on Flickr
So that's the Grahams done - have to say they've been my favourite class of hill out of those climbed so far. Although I am enjoying getting up Munros again, there was something very appealing about these smaller hills with bucketloads of attitude.
DSC03181 by Al, on FlickrDSC03182 by Al, on FlickrDSC03183 by Al, on FlickrGot into Lochranza at 7.30 and headed for the campsite. Pitched and ate, then set off for a wander in the gloaming to the ruined castle, waves lapping peacefully on the shingle. settled down for what was a windy night in the tent - campsite nice and quiet. Friday morning - dry but windy, clag down over the tops. The forecast wasn't great, but I hoped that it might lift when we got up there.
DSC03184 by Al, on FlickrDSC03185 by Al, on FlickrDSC03188 by Al, on FlickrWe'd glimpsed Beinn Bharrain coming over on the boat - a long lump of a mountain dominating Arran's northwest coast, We'd read about the choice of approaches and had decided to take the left-hand ridge that promised a wee scramble then make a full traverse of the hill and finish up with the Marilyn Meall nan Damh at the northernmost end. We drove to Pirnmill and parked outside the school then set off to the start of the track. There is a concrete surfaced track for a short while that cuts off to the right through trees and becomes increasingly sinuous and muddy before opening out onto the hillside and following the Allt Gobhlach to a small weir. We could see the outlines of the two ridges enclosing Coire Roinn peeking out of the clag from time to time and made for the left hand one.
DSC03190 by Al, on FlickrDSC03191 by Al, on FlickrDSC03194 by Al, on FlickrAs we gained height the boulders/heather gave way to blocks of granite and we were on the ridge proper. Steep in places and also narrow - not ideal with a strong crosswind buffeting you. Anyway we progressed along without undue difficulty - there was only one slightly awkward scramble over a couple of rounded boulders with little in the way of holds, but the exposure wasn't great. It was unfortunate to have the experience hampered by clag and wind as it appeared that you could amuse yourself taking a variety of routes to the top - if you could see what you were doing. The terrain eased as we neared the summit of Mullach Buidhe (the Graham). I decided we'd head to the Simm top of Beinn Bharrain first in the hope that when we returned to Mullach Buidhe the clag would have cleared - unfortunately all that happened was that the rain started
We trotted along to claim the Simm - I was feeling quite satisfied that we'd be completing our Grahams at last in a few minutes. DSC03196 by Al, on FlickrDSC03198 by Al, on FlickrBeinn Bharrain summit
DSC03200 by Al, on FlickrReturning along the ridge to our Graham summit the weather worsened, annoying claggy rain that mists up your glasses. It was a bit of a scunner, but I've not had good weather yet when completing Munros, Munro Tops, Corbetts or Donalds, so why should it be any different. Snapped some photos of us at the trig point, then my camera drowned in the rain, so no more photos of our hill exploits I'm afraid. We walked northwards along the ridge, dropping into Bealach an Fharaidh where we found a little shelter from rain and wind to have our lunch. From here we continued along the ridge back to Beinn Bhreac and along to the east of Coirein Lochain down to the bump of Meall Bhig. Up ahead I could see our Marilyn rising steeply across Lodan Ruadh - I set off and waited for Allison at the summit cairn - her back was giving her a bit of gyp again which wasn't great.
Completion
DSC03203 by Al, on FlickrDSC03204 by Al, on FlickrDSC03207 by Al, on FlickrWe retraced our steps to the Meall Bhig then joined the footpath descending alongside the Uisge Soluis Mhoir down to Mid Thundergay. By this time it was sunny and blue skies - bloody typical. We walked the couple of miles back to the car, stopping for a celebratory go on the swings, rather randomly sited beside the road. Drove back to Lochranza and made a visit to the distillery to get a suitable bottle to mark our occasion. We were both hungry and set about an early tea. It was a lovely looking evening and I decided we'd take a drive down to the standing stones at Machrie Moor - Allison had been before, but I hadn't seen them. A fabulous place - there are so many sets of stone circles in a concentrated space. The stones themselves looked superb bathed in the low evening sunlight, the various mountains (Bharrain, Ard Bheinn and of course the wonderful cluster of Corbetts) surrounding us. The sky had some pyrotechnics to send our way in the shape of psychedelic clouds and glowing afterlight. I really warmed to Arran on this visit, won't be too long before we're back I think.
P1150351 by Al, on FlickrThe two ridges leading to Beinn Bharrain - fine weather now we're back at the car!
P1150352 by Al, on FlickrOn the way to Machrie Moor
P1150354 by Al, on FlickrBeinn Bharrain from the south
P1150359 by Al, on FlickrFingal's Cauldron
P1150362 by Al, on FlickrP1150363 by Al, on FlickrP1150366 by Al, on FlickrP1150368 by Al, on FlickrP1150371 by Al, on FlickrP1150373 by Al, on FlickrP1150376 by Al, on FlickrP1150380 by Al, on FlickrP1150383 by Al, on FlickrBack to the campsite, no other cars on the road. Time to crack open the whisky and have a couple to round off our day. I reckoned that we'd do another hill in the morning then set off in the early afternoon for Kinlochleven - although had it not been for the WH Meet there, I'd have stayed on Arran til the Sunday. A chilly night bit no wind, and fine sunshine when we woke. First cuckoo of the year.
P1150384 by Al, on FlickrPacked up the tent and set off from the campsite, just past the distillery where a footpath leads into Gleann Easan Biorach. This follows the western bank of the Allt which I assume is where the distillery draws its water from - the river runs noisily through a deep channel. Our target was Beinn Bhreac (another one) which isn't visible initially walking down the glen - it's Caisteal Abhail which catches the eye. The footpath becomes wet and boggy - we cut up onto higher ground and Beinn Bhreac, speckled with lumps of granite in amongst the heather - came into view. Would be a fine spot for a summit camp - great vista of the jagged Corbetts ahead.
P1150385 by Al, on FlickrP1150387 by Al, on FlickrCaisteal Abhail
P1150388 by Al, on FlickrBeinn Bhreac
P1150390 by Al, on FlickrP1150394 by Al, on FlickrP1150395 by Al, on FlickrSummit Bhreac, looking to Beinn Bharrain
P1150398 by Al, on FlickrP1150400 by Al, on FlickrWe headed off the north of Bhreac, making for Beinn Biorach and Meall Mor which gave a very enjoyable short circuit. Good views of Loch Ranza from Meall Mor, including of the ferry coming over the smooth sea. We descended steeply from Meall Mor to rejoin the footpath. Back to the campsite, collected the car and drove to the ferry terminal to wait for the next crossing. Sat in the sunshine and ate our lunch looking out over the waters.
Beinn Biorach & Meall Mor
P1150401 by Al, on FlickrYesterday's Marilyn - Meall nan Damh
P1150402 by Al, on FlickrLochranza
P1150406 by Al, on FlickrP1150407 by Al, on FlickrP1150410 by Al, on FlickrThe route to Oban took us along Kilmartin Glen, which Allison hadn't visited, so we made some stops - the wonderful cup and ring marked sandstone slabs at Achnabreck which have a special kind of cosmic resonance and remind me of looking out into deep space; then Temple Wood and the adjacent standing stones and linear chambered cairns; then finally Kilmartin Church with its Knights Templar engraved stones and carved ancient crosses inside the church. Well worth a visit.
Achnabreck slabs
P1150413 by Al, on FlickrP1150414 by Al, on FlickrTemple Wood
P1150416 by Al, on FlickrKilmartin Stones
P1150417 by Al, on FlickrWe arrived at a busy Kinlochleven at around 5.30, made our tea then ventured into the bunkhouse to spend an enjoyable, not very sober evening with the usual suspects. Didn't get to bed til almost 2am - far too late for an old yin like me. As a result had a lie in til after 9, getting us as most folk were leaving. The forecast seemed to be for rain from the afternoon, with most folk we spoke to doing no hills or something short. Not driving for a couple of hours after last night was probably wise, so our hill selection was made for us - Na Gruagaichean's west Top for Allison, which we could walk from the campsite to.
The tops of the hills were in clag and it was a bit of a plod for me initially - we had considered a direct assault of the southern flank, but that seemed rather steep, so an easier way - along the track towards Coire an Lochain then cutting up onto Sgurr Eilde Beag was sensibly selected instead. The wind was strong and chill, but the tops gradually cleared, and we ended up having a good weather experience.
Sgurr Eilde Mor
P1150422 by Al, on FlickrFrom Sgurr eilde beag we went to the southern Top of Binnien Mor. It seemed positively rude not to nip along to the summit of Binnien Mor from here, so we did, then returned and set off along the ridge to Na Gruagaichean. First time we did this (at WH Meet in Nov 13) it was serious snow and cornicing to be negotiated - today it was an amble. Down from the summit onto loose scree to climb the west Top of na Gruagaichean and back before heading off in the standard manner and making for the track to Mamore Lodge thence back to Kinlochleven. Passed a number of foreign folk on the WHW, which I'm supposed to be walking next weekend....we'll see. A pleasant drive down the road, without a backlog of traffic on Loch Lomond shores.
P1150426 by Al, on FlickrBinnien Mor
P1150427 by Al, on FlickrBinnien Beag
P1150430 by Al, on FlickrNa Gruagaichean
P1150432 by Al, on FlickrWest Top
P1150434 by Al, on FlickrP1150436 by Al, on FlickrP1150439 by Al, on FlickrP1150440 by Al, on FlickrSo that's the Grahams done - have to say they've been my favourite class of hill out of those climbed so far. Although I am enjoying getting up Munros again, there was something very appealing about these smaller hills with bucketloads of attitude.
