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This year I've been looking at all sorts of cycle touring possibilities in the Highlands, after not doing any for almost 20 years. One of my routes took me down to Fort William via Skye and Mallaig, which I thought would fit in quite nicely with the Kinlochleven meet. Time to make a week of it!
Originally I had hoped to do more walking along the way, and also head down through Sunart, Ardnamurchan and Mull. This was clearly a bit over-ambitious, and the weather wasn't really lining up for it. A potential bothy night with Alan and Steve on the Thursday in Glensulaig sealed the deal - I would chop off the more south-westerly parts of the trip and leave them for another time.
Map of complete cycle:
The reports are split up by the walks I did, so I have shoehorned the first 3 days of the cycle into this Peanmeanach report.
Day 1 - Tuesday 18th April. 62 miles on the bikeThe theme for my week appeared to be Lazy Buggers, so accordingly I didn't get up early, and it took me ages to pack. I was finally on my way shortly before 12:30pm. The aim today was to get over to Coulags, where I hoped the current hydro works would make getting the bike to Coire Fionnaraich bothy fairly easy.
Packed up (although I left the chairs behind in the end):
…and we’re off over the Beauly Firth:
Bloody heavy load I seemed to have packed onto the back of my bike - a fair bit more than on my practice run a few weeks back! Still, it was fine once I was moving. I crossed the Kessock Bridge and made for the quiet backroads along the north shore of the Beauly Firth and through the Fairburn Estate. Although the day seemed grey initially, the sun was occasionally out and it was nice cycling weather.
After a brief section on the Ullapool road through Contin, it was time to leave the tarmac altogether and follow forestry tracks to the east of the Rogie Falls, then the north shores of Loch Garve. The surface deteriorated a bit after crossing the railway, but it was nice to be on some new ground.
Carn Faire nan Con across Loch Garve:
Further west along Loch Garve was more pleasant, as I pulled away from forestry plantations and into more natural woodland, before crossing the old bridge at Little Garve and popping back out on the Ullapool road.
There wasn't really any alternative but to follow the main road through to Achnasheen here, which is what I did. It's a pleasant enough route anyway, and not overly busy. Things started well, but by the time I passed the end of Loch Luichart, I was cycling directly into the wind along long, wide, straight sections of road. I was making progress, but it became more and more of a grind as I approached Achnasheen - I'm used to flying along this road in 10 or 15 minutes from Garve!
A glimpse of Liathach and Beinn Eighe at Achnasheen:
I was glad I'd had a quick stop at Loch a' Chuilin, as the coffee shop in Achnasheen was shut. I'm sure the Ledgowan would have had food, but I decided to press on instead. I've always felt that as soon as I leave Achnasheen it is straight downhill into Strathcarron, but in reality there are another couple of miles of gradual uphill, still battling into the wind (which didn't appear to be moving any of the leaves on the trees, but was definitely affecting me!). Even on the initial downhill sections, the gradient was so shallow that I had to pedal quite hard to keep moving!
The last stretch from Achnashellach was more pleasant, with the sun making more of an appearance, and I felt like I'd properly started my trip, rather than just going out for a day cycle around the usual roads. There was a bit of a mini rush hour on the narrow section of the road, and I was finally at Coulags for around 17:45. Not a bad afternoon's pedaling.
The big question was whether to carry my stuff up to the bothy or wheel the bike up? There was so much stuff and it was so badly packed for carrying by hand that I decided to try and make use of the temporary track built to construct the new hydro scheme in this corrie - the top weir is close to the point where the path crosses the main burn, so not too distant from the bothy.
As ever on these hydro schemes, time is money (if they aren't installed and generating by the pre-agreed date, they won't get the agreed level of subsidies), so even at this late hour the contractor was busy. As expected, I got a telling-off for trying to walk through the construction area, but in addition to that, the foreman told me that the new track went nowhere near the existing path higher up, so it would be of no help to me. So there was a rather painful 50 minutes of bullying the fully laden bike up the stalker's path. Took me just over an hour in all from the road, and almost every moment of it was tedious. Safe to say I won't be taking a road bike up here again!
Finally at Coire Fionnarach
Fortunately, there were already a couple of folk at the bothy, and they had a lovely fire going. They were both regular bothiers for down Ayrshire way, and we had a pleasant evening of drink and chat
.
Day 2 - Wednesday 19th April. 66 miles on the bikeThere was mist right down to the bothy first thing in the morning. That and the thought of having to drag all of my stuff back out again (I hadn't even lightened the load by using my firelog, as there was so much coal the night before) meant that I was a bit later getting on my way than I had wanted. I should add that the site foreman was a complete liar, and the hydro track would have taken me most of the way to the bothy with minimal effort required to get back on the stalkers path. However the site was busy again in the morning, so I resigned myself to pushing the bike back down the stalkers path again. At least the mist had cleared by this point, with the promise of some sunshine.
Leaving Coire Fionnarach:
Today's plan was to nip over the Sleat peninsula on Skye, then back to the mainland by the Armadale ferry. I wasn't sure about the first bit of the route, between Strathcarron and Achmore. This was the same road as yesterday, but with some very steep climbs and narrow sections, along with moderate traffic. In the event, I really enjoyed it, and didn't find the traffic offputting at all. but the best bit of the early journey was the single track roads from Achmore to Plockton, which are quieter and lovely for cycling, with surprise views out through the trees to small islands in Loch Carron.
Creag Mhaol and Bad a’ Chreamha from Achmore:
Eilean na Creige Dubh and Applecross hills from the road to Plockton:
Due to my slightly late start, I actually skipped out on Plockton itself, as it is down a short dead end. More lovely cycling took me to the coast facing Skye, then into Kyle. To my annoyance, I could hear a squeaking coming from my pannier rack which turned out to be one of the bolts working itself loose. Did I have the right allen key to tighten it. Well actually I did, but I didn't find it until got home, so ended up spending 17 quid on a rather nice but heavy and extensive set of allen keys in a hardware shop in Kyle
.
By the time I had done all that, it was time for lunch so I nipped into a café in Kyle. One of my plans had been to skip out the first day and get a train straight to Kyle to get to the good stuff sooner. However I had decided that a night in Strathcarron and an early start the next day would get me to Kyle sooner, and leave more time before my preferred ferry from Armadale. Having eaten lunch, I was at least an hour later than I would have been if I'd got the train over
.
Leaving the mainland:
Quite a steep hill!
Never mind - no rush required. I had my tent with me so could potentially stop off anywhere. On Skye, it was back to cycling along wide straight roads into the wind again, until I got to Breakish, where I was able to divert onto a more scenic road closer to the sea. Then at Skulamus, a complete change of direction as I hit the Sleat road.
The Sleat road is again long, fast and straight, but for the next 3 miles or so, the old road beside it has been preserved as a footpath/cycleway. That made crossing the vast empty moorlands a lot more pleasant and intimate feeling than the main road. If only the old Achnasheen road could have been kept as a cycleway.
Beinn na Caillich from the old Sleat road:
Eventually I dropped down to the sea again, where the road follows the edge of the Sound of Sleat very attractively. Skye can be a bit lacking in trees in places, but this end of the island is much more vegetated.
Across the Sound of Sleat to Beinn Sgritheall and Loch Hourn:
One of the highlights of today's journey was approaching - the Ord - Tarskavaig road. It was a bit longer than the direct route to Armadale, but I had a feeling there would be good views of the Cuillin from it, not to mention some fun ups and downs. I also hoped to nip up one of the Marilyns on Sleat from the road - Sgorach Breac and Sgurr na h-Iolaire are both handy little ascents that would be an hour each away from the bike. The weather was at its nicest as I turned onto the minor road, and I didn't think I'd have enough time to go up a hill and get the 17:10 ferry to Mallaig. So I started formulating another plan to forget the ferry and camp down at the Point of Sleat instead.
Blaven from Ord, near Tokavaig:
The road was great fun, if a bit tough for a fully laden bike, with endless steep ascents and descents. Between the point where I hit the west coast at Ord, and the climb back up over the moorland at Achnacloich, there were two steep climbs and descents back to the coast again. The first of these defeated me, and I had to push the second half of it, but I was pleased to be able to pedal the rest of the road.
Dun Scaich castle with the Red Cuillin behind:
Now that I had planned to camp out, the poor weather began moving in, although it didn't ruin my enjoyment of the cycling. I had another break at the beach at Achnacloich, after which the first drops of rain began to fall.
Tarskavaig:
Looked like some upended Basalt columns on the beach at Achnacloich:
Suddenly, it was back to plan A. Neither of the Marilyns appealed unless views were available, and by this time they were disappearing. So instead it was a grind back over to the east side of Sleat and an attempt to make my ferry.
I could almost have made the 16:35 crossing, which is done by the Lord of the Isles, and takes 25 minutes. However, although I could see it sitting there, I was never going to make the last mile in time to buy a ticket and get on. Shame, as this was its last run of the day before heading back to Lochboisdale. Instead I would be on the inferior Loch Fyne, which is an old clunker and takes twice as long to cross, as well as having not so much as a coffee machine on board.
Lord of the Isles doing a turn on the Skye run:
Never mind - it was nice to have a rest, and I had plenty of my own food along with me anyway.
By the time I got to Armadale I had to make do with the clunky old MV Loch Fyne, which takes twice as long:
Mallaig looking less than inspiring this evening:
Finally off the boat at Mallaig, and it was drizzling. By the time I had picked up some beer in the co-op, it was 18:20, and I was keen to get moving. My briefly-considered camp out at the Point of Sleat wouldn't have been much fun in these conditions.
Another hill I had hoped to go up on the way past was the rocky but diminutive Sgurr na Dubh-chreige. I have missed out on this a couple of times before, so I pedaled round to Loch Morar, stopping off at the jetty where Matt and I had started our somewhat dangerous pack-and-paddle trip up Loch Morar 3 years earlier. The weather was still uninspiring, so again I didn't bother with the hill, and rapidly pedaled back to the coast. At least this little diversion took me along the River Morar, which is impressive as it squeezes through a short gorge and out to the sand dunes of the coast.
Shortly after picking up the old main road down the coast, I stopped off at Camusdarach beach. The weather had improved a little, and at one point I had thought about finding a secluded little pitch in the dunes along here to stop for the night. While this no longer appealed, it was still nice to have a look at Camusdarach, before pedaling along the machair past other bays. This could almost be South Harris.
Fancy house down the coast at Morar:
Camusdarach beach:
I had plans for accommodation that didn't involve camping in this general vicinity, but I can't really let on where. All I can say was that another good night was had in good company, and I finally got rid of my firelog
.
Somewhere or other…
Day 3 - Thursday 20th April. 29 miles on the bikeSub 2k Marilyns: Cruach Doir'an Raoigh.
Date: 20/04/2017.
Distance: 11 km.
Ascent: 500m.
Time: 3 hours, 50 minutes.
Weather: Grey and misty, even at low levels.
Today I would finally get around to some walking. I hadn't exactly rushed away from my overnight accommodation, as it was worth a bit of exploration around it. Also the weather wasn't tempting me towards the higher hills - at one point I had hoped to go up Rois-Bheinn today, but it didn't look worth the effort.
I eventually got moving, cycling through Beasdale and along the shores of Loch nan Uamh. I've always loved this part of the Mallaig road - just a shame it was so gloomy today otherwise I would have stopped more.
Nice bay near Arisaig:
Gives good boulder:
I decided that regardless of the low cloud, today I would go up a hill of some description. Cruach Doir'an Raoigh appealed, as did a wander out onto the Ardnish peninsula to visit Peanmeanach. This is probably one of the first bothies I became aware of, yet I had never visited. I think the rest of my family have all walked out there - probably multiple times, but for some reason I've always been doing something else. After hiding my bike in a small quarry near the layby, I crossed the railway and descended to the bay in Loch Beag.
No **** Sherlock:
It's a lovely walk on a good (if occasionally boggy) stalkers path, and had the weather been better, I would have taken loads more photos. Peanmeanach had been in consideration as an overnight stop on my trip, but in the end I decided it was too far from the road, and both the carrying panniers in or pushing the bike in options were impractical. Still, one of the guys I met the previous night had been extolling the virtues of the Ardnish Peninsula, and I could see his point - you could easily spend 2 or 3 days exploring the low hills and coastline in this little area.
Loch nan Uamh from the walk in to Peanmeanach:
Fort William to Mallaig line:
On the climb back up to the peninsula from the railway crossing, I passed a group of 15 or so teenagers, in various states of moaning. Probably best that I hadn't been at the bothy the previous night!
There was some lovely woodland before the final drop down to the bothy, and I could appreciate how pleasant it would normally be, even if everything looked a bit grey today.
Peanmeanach at last:
I stuck my head in for a look around, and as luck would have it, there were 3 guys setting up for an evening there. The kettle had just boiled as I came through the door, and I was kindly offered a brew
. The guys mentioned the singing sands of Peanmeanach, which sounded interesting, but with the tide high, I decided there would be little to see, and wandered back out to the road.
Hills behind Peanmeanach:
Cruach an Fhearain Duibh:
The cloud hadn't lifted much, but I decided to throw a Marilyn into the bag. Cruach Doir'an Raoigh was close to the path, so I veered off across the moorland to go up it. Even at less than 300m high, it was in the cloud, but the moorland was made up of satisfying gneiss boulders and slabs between the heather, and reminded me of the rocky hills in the middle of South Harris.
More good boulders:
I dropped out of the cloud down towards Loch Dubh and rejoined the path shortly before it crossed the railway. A short ascent took me back to the bike.
Loch Dubh and Polnish from Cruach Doir’ an Raoigh:
Despite the short amount of cycling in today's itinerary, time was now getting on. Now the wind was firmly behind me, and the pedal down to Lochailort, along Loch Eilt and through Glenfinnan was enjoyable, and mostly free of big lorries (probably pays to check the Mallaig - Lochboisdale ferry timetable to avoid the busy lorry times). Again, there was little to detain me in terms of scenery (mist and low cloud most of the way) - a bit of a shame, but no surprise really. More annoying was the lack of a shop in Glenfinnan, as I had hoped to re-stock on beer and whisky.
Across Loch Eilt:
Before too long, I was turning off the main road and heading up to the little carpark at Fassfearn. All that remained was 3 miles or so of forestry roads which would bring me to within spitting distance of Glensulaig bothy. I wasn't too sure what to expect from the approach - nicely surfaced track or lots of rubble and potholes? The cycling turned out to be pretty good - initially following the An t-Suileag up through pleasant mixed woodland, then a more functional forest road to the bothy. The last 5 minutes to the bothy was a push through bog, but compared to Coire Fionnaraich, this was luxury.
Glensulaig bothy:
...and again it was inhabited with a lovely fire going. Not really a surprise this time, as I had arranged to meet Alan and Steve (mountainstar and Yorjik) here. So another good bothy night followed
.
…with roaring fire as lit by Steve (Yorjick):
Link to Part 2