Amazing Ardgour

[Jaxter]

Link to day 1

I woke up to the sound of the cuckoo still going and poked my head out the door out my tent. It was a beautiful sight; I love waking up and seeing a mountain

Loch Ailort at 5am


It was very cold and although I poked my head out and had a wee wander around, I retreated back to my sleeping bag and managed to very carefully brew myself a cup of tea. No forest fires on my watch







The sun began to rise and light up the hills and the loch. I eventually crawled out of my cocoon and started packing things away, aware that I had quite a drive to get to the start point of today's masterplan.



There were some weird bubbles rising from the water where the tide had come in. Any ideas!?










Further down Loch Ailort




I had a few stops en route, including Glenuig for a quick use of the facilities at the very pretty village hall. Someone had been sticking googley eyes on the road signs. I’ve seen these in other places too


I could see into Moidart from the other side, equally lovely.


This road took ages, partly because I kept stopping and also because a lot of it was single track with passing places and I didn't have a death wish unlike some drivers I met I passed Beinn Resipol which looked fantastic and I almost changed my plans, but today was all about Ardgour

Loch Sunart


Coming down Loch Linnhe I could see my target ahead


Finally arriving at the car parking I changed straight into my shorts, suncreamed up and off I went. I could see some of my route ahead - the glen with the two Grahams Sgorr Mhic Eacharna and Beinn Bheag looking impressive on the right and the mighty Garbh Bheinn hiding behind the descent ridge on the left. It was very sheltered and extremely warm



I went almost immediately straight uphill, winding my way in between crags and gaining height quickly. There were again smatterings of path and I followed bits of them and my nose as I climbed up to Druim an lubhair.

Looking back the views were a bit hazy but still amazing. Finally on the ridge, I looked back and could see all the way to Ballachulish over the Lochan.



Loch Linnhe and out to sea


I wound my way around crags, outcrops and avoided the occasional boggy patch to reach the final pull up to Sgorr Mhic Eacharna, and the views were awesome.

Ahead to Beinn Bheag


Garbh Bheinn now fully visible looked an absolute monster and it was hard to see the route up it from the bealach....






From the summit I headed steeply down, clambering over some obstacles and diverting around others, trying to be extra careful not to aggravate my knee, especially after the tough day in Moidart the day before

Safely at the bealach it was time to go up again, and it was very steep! I took my time and zigzagged my way up over false summits and finally arrived at the top.


Looking back to Sgorr Mhic Eacharna


The summit wasn't as rounded as it had appeared on the approach and the best views actually came from just beyond the summit.

Down the glen


The mighty Garbh Bheinn


My journey so far


The wind was picking up and the sun was playing peekaboo behind the clouds, sometimes bathing me in a baking hot glow, other times leaving me to the mercy of the wind chill

From this point it was still quite difficult to see how you'd ascend Garbh Bheinn although it was looking slightly less like a rock climb and more like a scramble now. All would become clear I was sure... but there was one more steep descent before that...plenty of time for my knee to rebel

Continuation of the ridge to the bealach. Garbh Bheinn would be attempted from there


I followed the ridge along and worked out a route up the other side before dropping very steeply down directly to the bealach complete with Lochan. The fact that there are no photos of this section gives an idea of the concentration required

Hoping I wouldn't need any of my newly acquired rock climbing skills I set off up initially incredibly steep grassy slopes before it became more rocky. There were traces of humans around, but nothing I'd describe as a path and I was thinking that this would be hellish to come down

Scrambling up the rocks, I eventually returned to grass before coming out into a coire. The difficult bit was over!



As I walked further into the coire I was surrounded by absolutely huge rocks! There were traces of path and I followed this up the left hand side. I'm not sure what the textbook route was here, but I came out at the top of a gully; the sort that gives you wobbly legs when you look down and if you stepped over the edge the first thing you'd touch was about 2000ft below

So I scrambled up some rocks the other direction, following my nose and eventually came out just short of the summit with an easy stroll to the big cairn and yet another fabulous view. This mountain was serious

Loch Linnhe, Ballachulish and Beinn a’Bheithir


Loch Sunart and Beinn Resipol


Beinn Bheag & Sgorr Mhic Eacharna looking far less impressive from here




This hill looked amazing but it was off the side of my map – I now know it to be Creach Bheinn and I will certainly be heading there




A sizeable cairn


I realised I hadn't actually eaten anything since breakfast, and I'd forgotten to make sandwiches (always seem to forget about food for day 2!) so I munched on a cereal bar and had a wee rest. I could see a guy descending - he definitely wasn't ahead of me so must have come up and down the same way.



After a while of admiring the views, I was starting to get a bit chilly. Having a last look I followed the path along the tops of the crags (went very close to the edge at times ) and then met up with a slightly less exposed path, doh... Just practising for the Inn Pinn

It was a clear path down to the bealach from which a bit of re-ascent was required; I'd seen the guy ahead of me cut off some of it, but I like going up things! Again I'm not sure how textbook my route was as I ended up climbing scree, but it was so much fun

Looking back towards the summit I could see the epic cliffs!!


From here it was a pretty brutal descent. There was a path most of the way, I managed to lose it a bit in some of the grassy sections and found some interesting scrambly routes down big rocky things just to take a bit of pressure off my knee



It got hotter and hotter as I got further down and had to have a few sun cream stops along the way, as well as knee recovery breaks

Back at the car I was able to dump stuff and sit on a rock to relax for a bit. My only deadline was to get through bridge of orchy before 9! Eventually I decided I'd soaked up enough sun, so clothes back on I headed off stopping for a few photo stops....



Nevis almost in summer mode


Glencoe




Before arriving at Corran Ferry. This was very exciting as I'd never taken my own car on a ferry before... it's the small things







Ardgour from North Ballachulish


Back on dry land, I only got as far as Ballachulish before I had to stop for ice cream and a wee wander

The Pap


And a quick stop at the Black Mount


But then it was time to get on the road, drawing to a close one of the best "weekends" I've ever had. A 325 mile round trip, absolutely fabulous hills and areas and although I arrived home completely exhausted, I actually felt really refreshed and it was totally worth it

Ardgour.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

[Mal Grey]

Now that looks even better than Moidart!


So. What percentage of your average week are you NOT;

a. Planning a hillwalking trip
b. On a hillwalking trip
c. Writing a report on a hillwalking trip?

[Sunset tripper]

Two great reports and pictures in one of my favourite areas. I was there on Sunday myself heading back to Inverness from Mull via Ardnamurchan, Lochailort etc. Ben Resipole looked beautiful on Sunday night and I was tempted myself

[BobMcBob]

Thanks for that, this hill's on my to-do list for the very near future. In fact I almost went up there 2 days after you did but I didn't because of my knees. Sounds like I made a good call from what you say about the descent. Looks like a great hill though, in fact you've whetted my appetite nicely to spend a few days over in Ardgour next month I reckon. Cheers.

[rockhopper]

Great weather and couple of days to pick for this area - enjoyed your Modart WR too. Haven't got to this corbett yet - interesting route choice to add on the grahams - cheers

[Cairngorm creeper]

Great report , and useful too as it on our to do list for this summer. Now I can't wait

[Collaciotach]

I live 10 mins from Garbh Bheinn she is a grand mountain altogether. But i let you into a secret My favourite hill over here is Creach Bheinn .For me best done from Glen Tarbet via Allt Coire nam Frithe allt and Meall a Choirein Luchraich then over Maol Odhar .... A1 scenic route. Mind you the horseshoe is no to shabby either. Best kept secret in the Gàidhealtachd the hills over here

[Alastair Maclean]

Just so not fair , Not jealous in the slightest!

[Jaxter]

Now that looks even better than Moidart!


So. What percentage of your average week are you NOT;

a. Planning a hillwalking trip
b. On a hillwalking trip
c. Writing a report on a hillwalking trip?

A lot of train hours commuting put to good use

Two great reports and pictures in one of my favourite areas. I was there on Sunday myself heading back to Inverness from Mull via Ardnamurchan, Lochailort etc. Ben Resipole looked beautiful on Sunday night and I was tempted myself

Thankyou - isn't it just a stunning area!!

Thanks for that, this hill's on my to-do list for the very near future. In fact I almost went up there 2 days after you did but I didn't because of my knees. Sounds like I made a good call from what you say about the descent. Looks like a great hill though, in fact you've whetted my appetite nicely to spend a few days over in Ardgour next month I reckon. Cheers.

Can heartily recommend spending time there, hope your weather is as good as mine (don't forget to put suncream on your ears ) Lots of brutal descent but ok if you take your time

Great weather and couple of days to pick for this area - enjoyed your Modart WR too. Haven't got to this corbett yet - interesting route choice to add on the grahams - cheers

Cheers rockhopper - it's a fab hill! I can't take credit for the route, stole it from a couple other folk but it makes for a much better day out that the out and back WH route - you get to really appreciate the scale of Garbh Bheinn as you go around and build up to it And the 2 Grahams are brilliant hills too!

Great report , and useful too as it on our to do list for this summer. Now I can't wait

Thankyou - hope your weather is as good as mine

I live 10 mins from Garbh Bheinn she is a grand mountain altogether. But i let you into a secret My favourite hill over here is Creach Bheinn .For me best done from Glen Tarbet via Allt Coire nam Frithe allt and Meall a Choirein Luchraich then over Maol Odhar .... A1 scenic route. Mind you the horseshoe is no to shabby either. Best kept secret in the Gàidhealtachd the hills over here

Thanks - I'll check that out next time I'm there, which won't be long I'm sure. Amazing place

[jacob]

Great report, of a beautiful rocky place. Before I read Mal Grey's comment, I was asking myself the same question
You seem to be on a day and night shift bagging summits. Incredible.
The bubbles I would guess are methane bubbles. Rotting plants do that. Next time hold a lighter to them (a lit one ofcourse, otherwise little will happen) and see if they burn. If yes, it's methanegas.
I used to do that when I was young, to bubbles in the ice, either the seethrough or the nonseethroughwhite bubbles, can't remember. Hack a hole with my iceskate and hold a lighter next to it. Great fun when you're young.

[malky_c]

Another favourite . Definitely better done as a full horseshoe than just a quick up and down from the road. Basically you can just look at the map and pick any hill around here - you can't go wrong (although it might be hard going).

[Alteknacker]

Garbh Bheinn looks just sensational. That's what I call a hill with attitude!!! Most enjoyable report and set of pics. (no surprise there).

Now on the "must do" list, together with the intention to check out the Collaciotach recommendations

[Jaxter]

Just so not fair , Not jealous in the slightest!

Jammy

Great report, of a beautiful rocky place. Before I read Mal Grey's comment, I was asking myself the same question
You seem to be on a day and night shift bagging summits. Incredible.
The bubbles I would guess are methane bubbles. Rotting plants do that. Next time hold a lighter to them (a lit one ofcourse, otherwise little will happen) and see if they burn. If yes, it's methanegas.
I used to do that when I was young, to bubbles in the ice, either the seethrough or the nonseethroughwhite bubbles, can't remember. Hack a hole with my iceskate and hold a lighter next to it. Great fun when you're young.

Ooooh I'll try that next time - thanks for the info, I was puzzled muchly

8)

Another favourite . Definitely better done as a full horseshoe than just a quick up and down from the road. Basically you can just look at the map and pick any hill around here - you can't go wrong (although it might be hard going).

Cheers malky, aye I hate out and backs so that wasn't ever going to be a thing can't wait to get back to that area. What's a munro?

Garbh Bheinn looks just sensational. That's what I call a hill with attitude!!! Most enjoyable report and set of pics. (no surprise there).

Now on the "must do" list, together with the intention to check out the Collaciotach recommendations

Cheers! Aye it's one hell of a hill that one. Mind you, you'd probably tag on Collaciotach's rcommendations to the same walk

[bigkeith]

Great report with plenty of laughs 👍. Thanks for sharing the GPX, hope to get out there this year.