Not In at Sgurr Dearg

[Cairngorm creeper]

Our walk up Sgurr Dearg was battle between impetuousness and caution. Caution won just and a bit more practice is required before we go back to bag the Inaccessible Pinnacle but it was a grand walk just the same. I would highly recommend walkers and scramblers take time to explore this part of the Cuillin Ridge whether or not they intend to climb the In Pinn.
We followed the walk the Highlands route backwards with a bit of a variation up Sgurr Dearg Beag.

The Route

It has always been our intention to tackle the Inaccessible Pinnacle under our own steam but we knew good preparation would be required to achieve this without causing a que of guides and clients stretching back to Glen Brittle as we bumbled our way up at snails pace or worse, got flustered by the absail. But, there we were staying in Kintail, with an impeccable weather forecast for the rest of the week, so, we decided the time to face the Inaccessible Pinnacle had arrived. Throwing caution and any form of preparation to the wind, we made a dash home for our climbing gear, cut our rope down to 40m (the minimum length recommended), had a quick absail practice of the coat pegs in the hall and crossed our fingers that it would not be too busy midweek this early in the year.
After a cursory look at possible ascents routes to Sgurr Dearg we decided to go up by the west ridge and descend by Coire Nan Bannidich.
Wednesday, 8:20 am, we were parked outside Glen Brittle Youth Hostel and ready to go. Now where's the path? A quick check of the map showed it would have been closer to park at the Glen Brittle Hut, but this early error worked in our favour as all there were no parking spaces left at Glen Brittle Hut.
Despite all the cars there were very few people around, as we followed the path to Coire Laggan.

The Walk in and path towards Coire Laggan

Our map did not show a path leading up the west ridge so we just struck of the path at a likely point to make our way over undulating ground and then started climbing up the steep grassy stair case..

Making our way up the steep grassy slopes of the west ridge

As we gained height we eventually met up with a path. As I looked back I could see a small troupe of people heading our way, perhaps it won't be so quite after all
The path led to some very easy scrambling up a rocky chimney and then out onto the nose of Sron Dearg.

Short rocky chimney

Looking down from the Nose of Sron Dearg

Loch Brittle

The path up to Sgurr Dearg Beag was quite loose in places and so we made haste not wishing to be overtaken, however the other party had disappeared, they were probabley hanging back not wanting to be just behind people on loose rock either.

Ths stoney slopes of Sron Dearg

Sgurr Dearg Beag

The scrambling guidebook had suggested you could choose either a left or right route up Sgurr Dearg Beag and both were a grade 1 scramble. Walkhighlands Route indicated the easiest route and the path went to the left. We headed for the middle but came to a dead end with no easy way out. We then tried the route to the left, but there was still no obvious easy scrambling. After a bit of huffing and puffing and walking backwards and forwards we decided to climb up a groove, to some easier ground above. I would have said it was more grade 3 than grade 1, it's only saving grace was that it looked like you could slither back down it if you got stuck.

In The Groove

We may be going the wrong way

Over the shelf

Above the groove there was a bit more scrambling before we reached the path leading to Sgurr Dearg. Whilst we were finding our way the party behind had caught us up by following the path around to the right.

Sgurr Dearg Beag

Round the side

From here the path runs some distance below the ridge leading to Sgurr Dearg, I found it rather loose and very exposed

Feeling exposed

and I was quite glad to reach another short section of easy scrambling which led to the top of the ridge, with the path then running much more securely on its other side.

Easy scrambling

By now we could see the In Pinn and were becoming very excited but as we approached the gearing up area we observed the seriousness of the absail and the number of teams climbing or waiting to climb the In Pinn our excitement turned to apprehension.
We decided to have lunch and watch how other people were getting on.

The Inaccessible Pinnacle in all its glory

So that's how it's done

Everybody and their dog, but not us

Although not teeming there was a constant que of people waiting to absail, some very competent and others looking positively bumbley. The more we watched the more we became convinced that we were not slick enough to climb the In Pinn whilst it was that busy. Oh dear back to the original plan of more practice. It is a shame the decent routes are so complex or perhaps we could try it on a moonlit night .

Slinking away down the scree

After the initial scree and despite our disappointment we really enjoyed the decent which was varied and interesting in a splendid situation.

Along the ridge

Easy scramble to Bealach Coire Nan Bannidich

Looking out from the Bealach

Walking across the scree

Coire na Ba

Coire na Bannidich

Final Look Back

There looked like there was endless variations of scrambling and easy climbing on Sgurr Dearg and I would really like to return to explore further and to follow the ridge rather than the by pass path to the In Pinn, whether we will have the confidence to try for the ultimate summit, who knows, but I like to think we might.

[Petr Dakota]

Another excellent report from you !
Looks like great adventurous day in the finest area
Good effort from you and it's a good idea to explore the place before you will go for the In Pin
It will make you feel more confident and prepared for the day "D"
Beautiful photos and action shots

...and yes, no doubts that you will climb the top of In Pin soon, after all your practice and scrambling experience on scottish mountains !

[jamesb63]

Excellent report and super weather for it ,when I done the traverse last week
I was apprehencive about the Pinn but after going through some of the other bits on the ridge
the Inn Pinn is a very easy climb and abseil
Set out about 6 if you can next time you will have it to yourself

[Cairngorm creeper]

Another excellent report from you !
Looks like great adventurous day in the finest area
Good effort from you and it's a good idea to explore the place before you will go for the In Pin
It will make you feel more confident and prepared for the day "D"
Beautiful photos and action shots

...and yes, no doubts that you will climb the top of In Pin soon, after all your practice and scrambling experience on scottish mountains !

Thank you for your kind comments and encouragement Petr, and you are right the exploring was useful, as we now know what to expect so hopefully more prepared when we go back.

Excellent report and super weather for it ,when I done the traverse last week
I was apprehencive about the Pinn but after going through some of the other bits on the ridge
the Inn Pinn is a very easy climb and abseil
Set out about 6 if you can next time you will have it to yourself

Thank you James, , I appreciate the moral support and very good advice about an early start. The absail looked quite daunting, so did throwing the rope, in the right direction from the top of Pinnacle, .

[Sunset tripper]

Crackin day. Great pictures.

[prog99]

If your profile is correct and you are in grantown then Huntlys Cave would be a decent place to practice an abseil. You'll need to rig your own anchor as I don't think theres anything in-situ (Inn Pinn has a big chain).
Check there are no climbers below you first of course.

[rockhopper]

Good on you for reconnoitering first and planning ahead - must confess, like many I took the easy option and followed a guide. Great day for it and all the best when you do get up there - cheers

[Cairngorm creeper]

Crackin day. Great pictures.

Thank you, we enjoyed it , hope lots more sunshine is on the cards for us all.

If your profile is correct and you are in grantown then Huntlys Cave would be a decent place to practice an abseil. You'll need to rig your own anchor as I don't think theres anything in-situ (Inn Pinn has a big chain).
Check there are no climbers below you first of course.

Good suggestion, and we could benefit from the practice with anchors as well. We just need to find a time when it is not too busy with the outdoor groups.

Good on you for reconnoitering first and planning ahead - must confess, like many I took the easy option and followed a guide. Great day for it and all the best when you do get up there - cheers

Thank you Rockhopper, Glad you had a good day for it, not sure many people would see the In Pinn as an easy option, guide or not