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Was yesterday my favourite day on the hills? Probably not. Was it one of the best? Definitely. Was it my best hillwalking experience in D&G so far? Undoubtedly.
Having learned of the New Donalds and Donald Tops after my first Lowther Hills trip in August last year, I was now on a mission to clean up all the loose ends I'd left behind - namely Well Hill (which I didn't see due to the clag the first time around), Rodger Law, Glenleith Fell and Cold Moss (which will need to wait for another day). I planned this trip late the night before after seeing that the weather was to be glorious.
I was determined to get the bus that had got me interested in these hills in the first place (the 102 to Edinburgh), so off I went the next morning; the same bus driver that took me to Tinto last week noticing me once again as I ask for a 'railcard single to Durisdeermill' - I have been getting trains far too often recently!
(All my photos from the day can be found here:
http://ianparkphotography.blogspot.co.uk/2017/06/well-hill-rodger-law-glenleith-fell.html )
After alighting, I had a quick pour over the map and began following the farm road up to Durisdeer. I could feel the heat from the sun already, knowing it was only going to get stronger throughout the day. There was a brief few minutes of shade as I walked underneath the patches of trees.
The road in:
Nearing the end of the road, there is a ford to cross, but a bridge is provided for those of us on foot (I didn't use it anyway!) The village of Durisdeer could not have opened itself up better - I almost felt like I was walking into a 13th century hamlet, with beautifully maintained cottages and flowers of every known colour on both sides.
An Orange Tip butterfly amongst the flowers, before the ford:
As I continued past the main square, I said goodbye to the last shade I would get for the next 4 hours and joined the Well (Wald) Path. I was instantly blown away - within the first minute I was seeing numerous Red Kites, pipits and thrushes. Not only that but I had the entire glen all to myself and could almost spy my first target of the day already.
Beginning of the Wald Path (Spot the Red Kite):
Further along, I took the turnoff that takes you onto the Roman Road, allowing you to visit the fortlet. It was enchanting to think of the minds who must have pilgrimaged through this valley over the centuries.
Further on:
Roman fortlet sign:
After passing the fortlet, the incline rises and the path slowly begins to fade into the boggier glen floor.
Well Hill was entirely in view by now:
There were multiple corrugated iron shelters on the way through.
'Wee Well Craigs' behind one of the shelters:
I had at one point passed a group of 5 Red Kites all in one group. I saw why they were here when I caught a momentary glimpse of a shrew darting in front of me, giving off a faint squeak. This was the first time I'd ever seen a live shrew before - and that was only one of the 4 I saw all day! I began the steep ascent of Well Hill, a quite large murder of crows constantly shuffling around 50m ahead of me, but never actually leaving.
Well Craigs on the slopes of Durisdeer Hill:
I passed by the blaeberry swathes and then a series of rabbit holes more than half way up. This was in fact the steepest ascent of the day, but it was all over in around 20 minutes as the top began to come into view.
Down the glen from the summit:
The views were spectacular; the entire Lowther Range visible as well as over to the Rhinns of Kells and the Moffat Hills. I saved most of the pictures for later on as I knew I'd be a little higher up.
As I made my descent, I was very glad that I came up the way I did, the way down was ruthlessly steep. The 8th highest sub-2k in Scotland (and highest in southern Scotland) doesn't come for free.
A Wheatear on the very steep Well slopes:
The Wald Path following the contours of the glen:
Gate at the top of the glen:
I passed by another corrugated iron shelter and thought I'd take a look inside - 2 Swallows darted out as I entered. I saw that there was a nest on a ledge above my head and I was mistakenly eager for a look. I moved a large stone to get a better view and I felt above my head to see if I could feel any eggs present. There was - I tried to carefully grab one to see it but my careless and callous fingers dropped one. I felt so bad that I put the stone back and left as quickly as I could - at least my lesson is learnt for next time.
My plan was to follow around the back of the sheepfold and follow the Gana Burn up to Rodger Law. I skipped an area of the path and went straight over to the sheepfold. I could hear a few white birds making a 'eeeh-eeeh' sound that I'd never heard before. I took tons of photos in the hopes of identifying them later on - if I had been able to see their unique crest I would probably not have had to wait until I got back home to tell you that they were Lapwings. I think this was the first time I have ever seen them.
A blurry Lapwing:
I decided at this point to put away the camera as the long and boring slog up to Hirstane Rig and then Rodger Law was going to take some time and I wanted to make sure I was going in the right direction - I have a habit of wandering completely off-course whenever I have my camera in hand. I finally made it up to the enormous peat hags as the ground flattens out - most of them are taller than me. The final trod along the ridge up to Rodger Law took much longer than expected but I was finally at the top around half an hour after leaving the sheepfold.
Rodger Law trig; one of the very few trig points in the Lowthers:
Finally I started taking some decent photos of the surroundings.
Wind farms and (I think) Hart Fell:
Lowther Hill and Green Lowther:
Over to Tinto:
Glenleith Fell and Scaw'd Law slopes:
I could actually see the whole route I took in August last year, from Queensberry to Lousie Wood Law (and everything in between). I began the long and straight route over Ballencleuch Law to Scaw'd Law and had a try at rebuilding Ballencleuch's sorry-looking summit cairn. Finally I could see what the top of Scaw'd Law actually looks like, although it's not much to behold. The views were excellent though.
Rhinns of Kells?:
I trundled down onto the path I had been awaiting for so long and eventually passed the site of my first solo camp, just to the side of the path, just before the turnoff to Glenleith Fell. I'm glad I'll never have to go through that again!
The path up to Glenleith Fell was a piece of cake - I was surprised to find a decent summit cairn at the top - unusual for a Donald Top. Joining back onto the path, I made my way down to Kettleton Byre. I saw a strip of grouse butts following down to the other path I would eventually join. It would save me 10 minutes or so so I followed them down to what looked like the bothy. It turned out to be some other building - the door and windows were locked up. My guess is that its a hut for the grouse shooting season.
Kettleton Byre was soon in view however and it was in very good condition. My first time seeing an MBA bothy, I had to go in. I was surprised by just how small it was, although I think this one is renowned for being tiny!
The bothy (extra points for those who can spot the female red grouse!):
I was back to following the path to Durisdeer - some of the glacial formations here were the best on the trip so far; with very narrow but extremely steep spurs, big erratics and a beautiful meandering river. Passing by the lambs basking in the shade under lone Hawthorn bushes was such a relaxing sight. Eventually, the glen subsided and it was just a case of passing the fields back into the village.
End of the glen:
Durisdeer nestled away:
I should take the time to mention that Durisdeer is by a long way the most quaint and charming place I have visited in D&G so far - if it were not for the lack of a shop, I would have happily wandered about it all day. I had a 2-hour wait for the bus back but was offered a lift, so spent the next while wandering around the parish and trying my best to even out my embarrassing suntan.
