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After quite a few years going up and down the hills of Scotland and Northern England, it was about time I got round to visiting another superb British mountain region, one I'd perhaps been away from for too long. So it was, "Croeso i Gymru", and I was welcomed by some scorching Welsh weather. I arrived at a small cottage near Mynydd Llandegai, Bethesda, where I had booked a week, Friday to Friday. There was space to squeeze in two more people, and my friends Pam and Emily had arranged to join me on Saturday afternoon, leaving on Tuesday. I settled in on the first evening, with a beautiful view across the Menai Strait to Anglesey.
Saturday 17/06/2017: Y Garn and Elidir FawrDistance: 16.8 km
Ascent: 1368 m
Time: 6.6 hoursSaturday morning gave me a chance to get going on the Welsh 3000 footers, so I went for the two western ones of the Glyderau range, adding in another couple of Hewitts. Climbing from the Nant Peris side meant I shouldn't be down too late to meet my friends when they arrived, and I went for Y Garn first to avoid the slog up Elidir Fawr. I'd heard about the parking charges in the Llanberis Pass area, so I was happy to find a free layby on the A4086. After a short road walk, I was ascending next to the Afon Las. This was a nice walk in warm sunshine, with nice views of the Snowdon range and Llanberis valley in retrospect.
- Ascending by Afon Las, looking back to Llyn Peris and Llyn Padarn
After fairly rugged surroundings lower down, the route emerged onto gentler gradients on grassy terrain, but drama was added by the sudden appearance of Tryfan over the skyline.
- Tryfan from near Llyn y Cwn
I could have made a short cut to start the final assault on Y Garn, but chose to visit Llyn y Cwn, a nice spot below Glyder Fawr. Then I began the move to the summit. Rather than take the direct path up Y Garn's flank, I chose to follow the escarpment above Cwm Clyd, and was rewarded with great views.
- Llyn Clyd, Llyn Idwal, Llyn Ogwen and Pen yr Ole Wen from above Cwm Clyd
There were a few other people on the summit, which was basking in a rather higher temperature than I was used to on Scottish and English 900 metre peaks!
- Crib Goch, Snowdon and Crib y Ddysgl form Y Garn
A nice ridge walk (quite broad and grassy, but with good views) followed to Foel-goch. There were no other walkers here, but it was nice to see a few goats.
- Goats on Foel-goch
I spent some time wandering around this summit area taking in the views.
- Tryfan and Glyder Fach from Foel-goch
- Y Garn from Foel-goch
The main path between Y Garn and Elidir Fawr was quite well populated with walkers, but as I made my way up over Mynydd Perfedd things became quiet again. I reached Carnedd y Filiast, with a fine vista looking towards the sea.
- Menai Strait from Carnedd y Filiast
Then I was ready to double back and head for Bwlch y Marchlyn and Elidir Fawr.
- Elidir Fawr and Marchlyn Mawr Reservoir from Carnedd y Filiast
It was a very enjoyable final ridge walk up Elidir Fawr. Quite narrow and rugged, but nothing exposed or technical. Quite a few walkers were enjoying this bouldery summit, the weather still sunny and hot.
As I began my descent towards Nant Peris, I met three Welsh lads coming up that way, and seeming rather out of breath. They would be - they were attempting all their country's 3000 footers in one day. As I moved further down, a few other walkers were coming up that way too, slogging through the heat. One of them assured me, "The weather's like this here all the time", in a Welsh accent. "I'm sure it is", I answered.
- Descending from Elidir Fawr
This was generally not a bad way to go down, although there was one boggy section, even in this weather. I reached the road at Nant Peris and made my way back to the layby.
Back at the cottage, it wasn't long before Pam and Emily arrived. We had a very pleasant evening sitting outside the cottage in the June sunshine drinking wine. But not too much - we had big plans for Sunday, and an early start was called for. But not an early enough start for our 'plan A', as it turned out.
Sunday 18/06/2017: Tryfan, Glyder Fach and Glyder FawrDistance: 11.3 km
Ascent: 1046 m
Time: 8.2 hoursSetting off from the cottage at 7:45 am was early by Emily's standards; Pam and I didn't want to put too much pressure on her to get up earlier than she likes! But, on a sunny Sunday, we should have known it wouldn't have been early enough to have the privilege of a £10 parking space at Pen-y-Pass. All the laybys within a sensible distance were full too. So the Snowdon Horseshoe would have to wait until Monday. I should also have known to bring 'plan B' maps with me, as Llyn Ogwen was a relatively short drive away. But my route maps for Tryfan and the Glyders were back at the cottage

Only one thing for it - back to Mynydd LLandegai, then through Bethesda and on to Llyn Ogwen.
Pam said it might be for the best that this had happened. Snowdon would be extremely popular on a weekend like this and we'd probably be queuing to get on the summit. She was right. It turned out to be a really great day. We Arrived at Llyn Ogwen with plenty of available parking space along the A5, and no fee
- Emily and Pam by Llyn Ogwen
And so our scramble up Tryfan began.
- Ascending Tryfan, looking back at Llyn Ogwen, Y Garn and Foel-goch
Again, it was a hot day, and such a steep ascent was fatiguing. Plenty of other people were taking it on as well, though.
- Moving on up Tryfan
I wouldn't say we took the easiest alternative all the way up. We made a direct scramble over the north top, quite tricky in places, which led to a fairly awkward descent into a gully (although easier than it initially looked), before making our final climb towards the summit. Once we reached the summit area, of course, the real fun began! Thankfully the hot weather meant the tops of the two summit boulders, Adam and Eve, were completely dry. But dare we make that jump between them? I climbed onto the easier of the two stones, looking at that gap between them. The jump should be easy, but that sheer drop on the left hand side, and the fact that you only have a small landing area to hit without slipping, does make the situation somewhat hairy

It did take a while to summon up the courage, but I went for it. Job done! I also have to thank some 'jump veterans' who were there at the time, and able to give tips about the best way to climb on and off the boulders, as well as giving encouragement.
So, next it was Pam's turn.
- Pam ready for the Adam and Eve jump - will she, won't she?...
- ...there she goes - freedom of Tryfan won!
Nice one, Pam
Emily chose to give Adam and Eve a miss. After a rest on Tryfan, we set off towards the Glyders.
- Heading towards Glyder Fach and Glyder Fawr from Tryfan
- Descending from Tryfan, looking over to Llyn Bochlwyd, Llyn Idwal, Y Garn and Elidir Fawr
We were all feeling the heat, and the climb up Tryfan had been tiring. So we all chose to give Bristly Ridge a miss. The bypass up to Glyder Fach was still going to be a slog, though.
- Looking back at Tryfan while ascending Glyder Fach
The way up was loose and eroded in places, with plenty of scree, but zigzag paths with firmer footing can be found if you look for them. When the gradient eased, we had a reencounter with three lads from Cheshire we'd met while climbing Tryfan. They'd taken on Bristly Ridge, and it sounded like it had been and ordeal, particularly climbing onto it in the first place. Although Pam had found the bypass a trial in the heat, both she and Emily were glad we'd gone that way after listening to these boys.
We moved onto the summit area of Glyder Fach, and found the Cantilever Stone.
- Cantilever Stone, Glyder Fach
The actual summit requires a bit of a scramble over boulders to reach.
- Emily reaches the summit of Glyder Fach
After another rest, we began to make our way to Glyder Fawr. We had a look at Castell y Gwynt, but decided to bypass it on the south side. This involved a bit of descent, a boulder field, and reascent, but for a large part of the way there was a clear path.
- Castell y Gwynt
Before too long we were joining a few other walkers on the summit of Glyder Fawr, the day's highest mountain, in warm sunshine over 1000 metres above sea level.
- Snowdon from Glyder Fawr
So then our descent began, over quite steep sections with loose stones to begin with, but nothing too difficult, down to the flatter section near Llyn y Cwn. The steep section which followed near Twll Du (the Devil's Kitchen) was largely on made paths which eased the going, but hands were needed on one or two short sections. We made a slight detour to look up at the impressive gully of Twll Du.
- Twll Du, the Devil's Kitchen
A pleasant walk by Llyn Idwal took us on our way to Idwal Cottage - some lovely spots by the stream around here - and then it was a short stroll along the A5 back to the car. We'd all ended up with quite a suntan by the time we reached the layby.
Back at the cottage again, we had another really nice evening with a bit of wine. But once again, we had to think about next morning's early start and the day to come - we weren't going to be late this time!