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Sub 2k Marilyns: Healabhal Bheag, Beinn Bhaic-ghlais.
Date: 24 and 25/06/2017.
Distance: 8 + 15 km.
Ascent: 660 + 500 m.
Time: 2 hours, 30 minutes + 4 hours, 30 minutes .
Weather: Showery evening, high winds, followed by bright morning (with occasional light shower).
While I had thought briefly on Friday evening about a short Saturday night bothy trip, I hadn't envisaged getting hold of the car. Now I had that, I had more flexibility. It amuses me to say that most of this plan came about while sitting on the toilet and looking at the map on Saturday morning
.
The weather forecast wasn't great - particularly in the west (with strong winds on the high hills), but despite this, I thought I'd take a chance on the far west and some coastline. The following week, I was having to send two junior work colleagues on an end to end trip of the Outer Hebrides while I, erm, manned the spreadsheets back in the office
. I consider going on these sort of trips as one of my major work perks, but more recently I have been forced to get other people to do them; at least a visit to Olisdal bothy would give me the chance to see the Outer Hebrides this summer, if only from a distance!
The coastline around Olisdal had long been on my 'to visit' list - I have maps from 20 years ago where I have sketched a route on in pencil. Skye gets busier every year, and after enduring traffic jams and tailbacks reminiscent of Loch Lomondside on the way through Broadford, I finally pulled up at Orbost shortly after 5pm in a shower.
Meall Greepa by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Loch Bharcasaig by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
I set off down the track to Bharcasaig, before deciding to go in by the high route. I yomped up a steep bank and climbed a deer fence to get onto the open hillside (discovering the next day that there is a signposted path and a gate though the fence a little further on). As I pulled onto the E spur of Healabhal Bheag, the rain became heavier for a short while, ensuring I was fully saturated.
Loch Dunvegan by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Brighter to the east by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
I had done a round of Healabhal Mhor and Bheag a few years back, and remembered the smaller (bur higher) summit to be the more interesting of the two, hence being more than happy to go up it again. As you approach along the eastern spur, the summit is very much in your face up ahead. As I hit the steeper summit slopes, the rain eased off and there were spots of sunshine highlighting other parts of the island. The wind was pretty relentless though. I was glad I had canned my idea to go to Bhearnais bothy via some higher summits!
Healabhal Bheag from the east by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Final approach to Healabhal Bheag by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Harlosh catching the sun by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Back into Loch Bracadale by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
I weaved through steep outcrops to reach the final, shallower ridge to the summit plateau. In the middle of the plateau, the wind was much less ferocious, and although the Western Isles were barely visible, there were some nice crepuscular rays breaking through to spotlight the Minch.
West from Healabhal Bheag by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
I didn't hang around, and dropped down the S ridge, which was satisfyingly well defined and steep, but really easy going underfoot. Next I intended to take in the Marilyn that I had missed previously (Beinn Bhac-ghlais). It didn't look as interesting as Healabhal Bheag, but it was on my route, so why not?
Healabhal Bheag by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
It was a little boggy at the col between the two, but the ground firmed up nicely on the re-ascent, and the summit was as pleasant as any of the other bumps of similar height round and about me. I could now see the bothy in the distance, but there was a strong wind to walk into to get there.
Healabhal Bheag and Ollisdal Lochs from Beinn Bhac-ghlais by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Easy going higher up, then a bit more heathery lower down, but before long I was on the bank of the Ollisdal River, where the overgrown remains of lazy beds could be spotted. While most of the area was treeless, the gorge containing the river was choked with small trees and bushes.
Waterfall in Glen Ollisdal by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Then I was at the bothy. I hadn't done any research, and was a little surprised to open the door and find a rather rough earth floor, before I noticed that the left hand end of the building was clad and floorboarded with a decent fireplace. Some of the panelling and floorboarding was a little the worse for wear, but it was clean and tidy.
At the bothy by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
I had only taken 2.5 hours to get here - a good 30 minutes less than my estimate, and it looked as though I would be the only occupant for the first time this year. This is one of the less frequented bothies - although the bothy book had almost run out of room, it documented the last 8 years of visits, rather than the 2 or 3 years you usually fit into a bothy book.
It wasn't far off midsummer's eve; almost continuous daylight and plenty of time to explore the area. However, further showers and the constant howling wind meant that once I was in, I didn't go outside again until the following morning!
Cosy evening by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Looking out from the bothy by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
The following day, there was less wind and more sun. That's better
. I wasn't in a big hurry to get anywhere, but as I had been tucked up in bed by 10pm the previous evening, even getting up at 7:55am felt like a luxurious lie-in. I was on my way shortly after 9am, aiming first for Cnoc Dubh, a slight bump on the coastline which I thought would give me a good overview of where I was. Things looked good from here. I had briefly wondered if I should have parked at Ramasaig to the NW, as the cliffs looked higher and more abundant in this direction, but my way ahead to Idrigill Point looked just as interesting. Must try the coastline back towards Neist Point sometime as well though.
Cattle at Olisdal by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
There isn't a great deal to say about the walk to Idrigill Point other than it is one of the best coastal walks I've done. The pictures hopefully give a good flavour of the numerous crags, arches, waterfalls, big drops and vistas of the Western Isles that are on offer. Although the path isn't always obvious, the way is, and the majority of it is along well grazed turf rather than bog and heather. Despite the going being so easy, it took me ages to make progress as there was so much to look at!
Long way down by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Looking SE towards MacLeod's Maidens by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Biod a' Mhurain by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Bothy just about in context with the sea cliffs by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Waterfall near Uamh na Luinge by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Looking down by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Waterfall and arch by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Looking back along the crags towards Neist Point by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Beinn Mhor and Hecla of South Uist by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
I tend to see more eagles than I photograph on my travels, because they have usually long disappeared by the time my camera is on and pointing in the right direction. The first one I saw today flew directly towards me along the clifftop, giving me plenty of time to be ready. I don't think any wildlife photographers will be quaking in their boots at the competition, but at least you can tell what it is!
First eagle of the day - it even gave me enough time to get my camera out by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
I was briefly annoyed that I hadn't brought anything more interesting than water to drink, before remembering I had my stove and some tea bags. That was the perfect excuse to idle away half an hour.
Approaching MacLeod's Maidens by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Morning tea stop by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
The 'far west' plan had paid off - back to the east, the Red Cuillin were only intermittently clear, with the Black mostly immersed in cloud. The Rum Cuillin were faring the worst, with the outline of the island barely visible until later on. The distinctive twin whaleback of Canna was more obvious though, and the crags of the closer parts of the Minginish became clearer and more detailed as the day went on. My idle plans to do a multi-day coastal/Marilyn-bagging walk around the Minginish went up the to-do list today, as much of it looked to be of a similar quality to where I was now.
Minginish emerging from the cloud by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
MacLeod's Maidens were well worth the effort to get to. The highest one (at 60m) is almost certainly on some Tump list somewhere, making someone's bagging life difficult
. Some of the cliff edges along here have a sort of cornice of turf and loose rock, and adjacent to the Maidens, a small amount of this has fallen away with erosion - hopefully not with anyone standing on it
.
Cliffs near MacLeod's Maidens by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
MacLeod's Maidens by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
MacLeod's Maidens from Idrigill Point by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Rum covered in cloud, with Canna to the right by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
The path back is a bit boggy at the start, but not too bad. While it makes for pleasant walking, it seems a bit dull after the excitement of the last 2 or 3 miles of sea cliffs. There are more lazy beds at Idrigill (I've never really noticed these outside of the Outer Hebrides before, but I'm just not that observant - they are everywhere!)
What's left of Idrigill by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Ard Beag by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Minginish sea cliffs by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Path out from Idrigill Point by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
The sign announcing trees planted in memory of Joe Strummer surprised me a bit - I vaguely remember reading about this in a music magazine ages ago, but assumed it was somewhere down south.
Wasn't aware of Joe Strummer's connection with Skye by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Across Loch Bracadale to the Red Cuillin by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Healabhal Bheag and Gleann Bharcasaig by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Bharcasaig Beach by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Meall Greepa by
Malcolm Clark, on Flickr
Finally back at the car (having taken a good 90 minutes longer than I expected), it was time to consider what to do next. I had earmarked a number of potential Marilyns among other things, so I decided to head to the other end of the Duirinish Peninsula.