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Finding a quiet corner on Skye

Finding a quiet corner on Skye


Postby malky_c » Thu Jun 29, 2017 2:45 pm

Sub 2000' hills included on this walk: Beinn Bhac-ghlais, Healabhal Bheag

Date walked: 25/06/2017

Time taken: 7 hours

Distance: 23 km

Ascent: 1160m

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Sub 2k Marilyns: Healabhal Bheag, Beinn Bhaic-ghlais.
Date: 24 and 25/06/2017.
Distance: 8 + 15 km.
Ascent: 660 + 500 m.
Time: 2 hours, 30 minutes + 4 hours, 30 minutes .
Weather: Showery evening, high winds, followed by bright morning (with occasional light shower).

While I had thought briefly on Friday evening about a short Saturday night bothy trip, I hadn't envisaged getting hold of the car. Now I had that, I had more flexibility. It amuses me to say that most of this plan came about while sitting on the toilet and looking at the map on Saturday morning :lol: .

The weather forecast wasn't great - particularly in the west (with strong winds on the high hills), but despite this, I thought I'd take a chance on the far west and some coastline. The following week, I was having to send two junior work colleagues on an end to end trip of the Outer Hebrides while I, erm, manned the spreadsheets back in the office :? . I consider going on these sort of trips as one of my major work perks, but more recently I have been forced to get other people to do them; at least a visit to Olisdal bothy would give me the chance to see the Outer Hebrides this summer, if only from a distance!


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The coastline around Olisdal had long been on my 'to visit' list - I have maps from 20 years ago where I have sketched a route on in pencil. Skye gets busier every year, and after enduring traffic jams and tailbacks reminiscent of Loch Lomondside on the way through Broadford, I finally pulled up at Orbost shortly after 5pm in a shower.

ImageMeall Greepa by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageLoch Bharcasaig by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

I set off down the track to Bharcasaig, before deciding to go in by the high route. I yomped up a steep bank and climbed a deer fence to get onto the open hillside (discovering the next day that there is a signposted path and a gate though the fence a little further on). As I pulled onto the E spur of Healabhal Bheag, the rain became heavier for a short while, ensuring I was fully saturated.

ImageLoch Dunvegan by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageBrighter to the east by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

I had done a round of Healabhal Mhor and Bheag a few years back, and remembered the smaller (bur higher) summit to be the more interesting of the two, hence being more than happy to go up it again. As you approach along the eastern spur, the summit is very much in your face up ahead. As I hit the steeper summit slopes, the rain eased off and there were spots of sunshine highlighting other parts of the island. The wind was pretty relentless though. I was glad I had canned my idea to go to Bhearnais bothy via some higher summits!

ImageHealabhal Bheag from the east by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageFinal approach to Healabhal Bheag by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageHarlosh catching the sun by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageBack into Loch Bracadale by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

I weaved through steep outcrops to reach the final, shallower ridge to the summit plateau. In the middle of the plateau, the wind was much less ferocious, and although the Western Isles were barely visible, there were some nice crepuscular rays breaking through to spotlight the Minch.

ImageWest from Healabhal Bheag by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

I didn't hang around, and dropped down the S ridge, which was satisfyingly well defined and steep, but really easy going underfoot. Next I intended to take in the Marilyn that I had missed previously (Beinn Bhac-ghlais). It didn't look as interesting as Healabhal Bheag, but it was on my route, so why not?

ImageHealabhal Bheag by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

It was a little boggy at the col between the two, but the ground firmed up nicely on the re-ascent, and the summit was as pleasant as any of the other bumps of similar height round and about me. I could now see the bothy in the distance, but there was a strong wind to walk into to get there.

ImageHealabhal Bheag and Ollisdal Lochs from Beinn Bhac-ghlais by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

Easy going higher up, then a bit more heathery lower down, but before long I was on the bank of the Ollisdal River, where the overgrown remains of lazy beds could be spotted. While most of the area was treeless, the gorge containing the river was choked with small trees and bushes.

ImageWaterfall in Glen Ollisdal by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

Then I was at the bothy. I hadn't done any research, and was a little surprised to open the door and find a rather rough earth floor, before I noticed that the left hand end of the building was clad and floorboarded with a decent fireplace. Some of the panelling and floorboarding was a little the worse for wear, but it was clean and tidy.

ImageAt the bothy by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

I had only taken 2.5 hours to get here - a good 30 minutes less than my estimate, and it looked as though I would be the only occupant for the first time this year. This is one of the less frequented bothies - although the bothy book had almost run out of room, it documented the last 8 years of visits, rather than the 2 or 3 years you usually fit into a bothy book.

It wasn't far off midsummer's eve; almost continuous daylight and plenty of time to explore the area. However, further showers and the constant howling wind meant that once I was in, I didn't go outside again until the following morning!

ImageCosy evening by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageLooking out from the bothy by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

The following day, there was less wind and more sun. That's better :D . I wasn't in a big hurry to get anywhere, but as I had been tucked up in bed by 10pm the previous evening, even getting up at 7:55am felt like a luxurious lie-in. I was on my way shortly after 9am, aiming first for Cnoc Dubh, a slight bump on the coastline which I thought would give me a good overview of where I was. Things looked good from here. I had briefly wondered if I should have parked at Ramasaig to the NW, as the cliffs looked higher and more abundant in this direction, but my way ahead to Idrigill Point looked just as interesting. Must try the coastline back towards Neist Point sometime as well though.

ImageCattle at Olisdal by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

There isn't a great deal to say about the walk to Idrigill Point other than it is one of the best coastal walks I've done. The pictures hopefully give a good flavour of the numerous crags, arches, waterfalls, big drops and vistas of the Western Isles that are on offer. Although the path isn't always obvious, the way is, and the majority of it is along well grazed turf rather than bog and heather. Despite the going being so easy, it took me ages to make progress as there was so much to look at!

ImageLong way down by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageLooking SE towards MacLeod's Maidens by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageBiod a' Mhurain by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageBothy just about in context with the sea cliffs by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageWaterfall near Uamh na Luinge by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageLooking down by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageWaterfall and arch by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageLooking back along the crags towards Neist Point by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageBeinn Mhor and Hecla of South Uist by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

I tend to see more eagles than I photograph on my travels, because they have usually long disappeared by the time my camera is on and pointing in the right direction. The first one I saw today flew directly towards me along the clifftop, giving me plenty of time to be ready. I don't think any wildlife photographers will be quaking in their boots at the competition, but at least you can tell what it is!

ImageFirst eagle of the day - it even gave me enough time to get my camera out by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

I was briefly annoyed that I hadn't brought anything more interesting than water to drink, before remembering I had my stove and some tea bags. That was the perfect excuse to idle away half an hour.

ImageApproaching MacLeod's Maidens by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageMorning tea stop by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

The 'far west' plan had paid off - back to the east, the Red Cuillin were only intermittently clear, with the Black mostly immersed in cloud. The Rum Cuillin were faring the worst, with the outline of the island barely visible until later on. The distinctive twin whaleback of Canna was more obvious though, and the crags of the closer parts of the Minginish became clearer and more detailed as the day went on. My idle plans to do a multi-day coastal/Marilyn-bagging walk around the Minginish went up the to-do list today, as much of it looked to be of a similar quality to where I was now.

ImageMinginish emerging from the cloud by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

MacLeod's Maidens were well worth the effort to get to. The highest one (at 60m) is almost certainly on some Tump list somewhere, making someone's bagging life difficult :lol: . Some of the cliff edges along here have a sort of cornice of turf and loose rock, and adjacent to the Maidens, a small amount of this has fallen away with erosion - hopefully not with anyone standing on it :shock: .

ImageCliffs near MacLeod's Maidens by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageMacLeod's Maidens by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageMacLeod's Maidens from Idrigill Point by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageRum covered in cloud, with Canna to the right by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

The path back is a bit boggy at the start, but not too bad. While it makes for pleasant walking, it seems a bit dull after the excitement of the last 2 or 3 miles of sea cliffs. There are more lazy beds at Idrigill (I've never really noticed these outside of the Outer Hebrides before, but I'm just not that observant - they are everywhere!)

ImageWhat's left of Idrigill by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageArd Beag by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageMinginish sea cliffs by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImagePath out from Idrigill Point by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

The sign announcing trees planted in memory of Joe Strummer surprised me a bit - I vaguely remember reading about this in a music magazine ages ago, but assumed it was somewhere down south.

ImageWasn't aware of Joe Strummer's connection with Skye by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageAcross Loch Bracadale to the Red Cuillin by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageHealabhal Bheag and Gleann Bharcasaig by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageBharcasaig Beach by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

ImageMeall Greepa by Malcolm Clark, on Flickr

Finally back at the car (having taken a good 90 minutes longer than I expected), it was time to consider what to do next. I had earmarked a number of potential Marilyns among other things, so I decided to head to the other end of the Duirinish Peninsula.
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Re: Finding a quiet corner on Skye

Postby bootsandpaddles » Thu Jun 29, 2017 3:07 pm

I did this walk back in April and agree that it is great route. The coast is spectacular and I didn't see anyone until I was walking back up from Macleod's Maidens. The cattle, however, paid me quite close attention but in a very friendly way.
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Re: Finding a quiet corner on Skye

Postby BlackPanther » Thu Jun 29, 2017 4:09 pm

Fantastic! Oh how it makes me want to go back to Skye :D

It's been a while since we visited the Maidens... The coast here is amazing, I'm a huge fan of high cliffs and weird rock formations :D I'm actually glad that there are still quiet places on Misty Isle, where you can run away from the crowds... We had recently met the hoards of "Quiraing loonies" on the way to Bioda Buidhe, I was relieved to leave them behind :lol:

I remember there used to be a wooden bench somewhere in Rebel Woods, by the path, with great views to the bay below and the mountains on the horizon.
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Re: Finding a quiet corner on Skye

Postby Mal Grey » Thu Jun 29, 2017 6:34 pm

Looks like a wonderful, wild, bit of coast, with a bothy to boot. Thanks for sharing...added to "the list".

Great eagle shot.
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Re: Finding a quiet corner on Skye

Postby Sgurr » Thu Jun 29, 2017 7:39 pm

NIce to discover that there is still SOMEWHERE quiet on Skye. Interesting report.
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Re: Finding a quiet corner on Skye

Postby Alteknacker » Thu Jun 29, 2017 10:22 pm

Really interesting insight into a bit of Skye I've never been to. Because of the Cuillin I've neglected the coastal walks rather, but this shows that the cliffs are really spectacular. The first time I did the Cuillin I met a Canadian guy in the bunk house we spent our first night in who was on his 8th consecutive annual holiday on Skye, and he came primarily for the cliff walks!

Fabulous eagle pic. The only one's I've seen have been little more than dots in the sky (no pun intended).

Pity about being forced to give up your "perks" trips. I worked for a couple of years on a project on Anglesey that necessitated driving through Snowdonia, and I always considered that stopping off for a few hours in the mountains was THE perk of the job!
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Re: Finding a quiet corner on Skye

Postby bootsandpaddles » Fri Jun 30, 2017 10:44 am

Since compleating the Munros I have done lots of coastal walks both on the Scottish mainland and on the islands. Not only is the scenery usually spectacular but it is generally very quiet. They are not always easy walks though, often rough and pathless and involving quite a lot of height gain and loss. And there is always the possibility of some interesting wildlife such as otters and seals. I always keep a look out for cetaceans as well.
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Re: Finding a quiet corner on Skye

Postby johnkaysleftleg » Fri Jun 30, 2017 12:19 pm

Quite sad that finding somewhere quiet on Skye is now a surprise, looks a cracking walk however with some lovely coastal shots. Great shot of the Eagle as well.
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Re: Finding a quiet corner on Skye

Postby bootsandpaddles » Fri Jun 30, 2017 4:08 pm

Finding a quiet spot anywhere is becoming increasingly difficult during the summer unless you are prepared to walk quite a long way.
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Re: Finding a quiet corner on Skye

Postby Huff_n_Puff » Sun Jul 02, 2017 3:33 pm

What a lyrical temptation, thank you. This part of Skye is the setting for one of my favourite children's books so perhaps a nostalgic visit is in order :D :D
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Re: Finding a quiet corner on Skye

Postby litljortindan » Sat Jul 15, 2017 11:19 am

Good idea to combine a hill with a coastal walk I think. I've been on the coastal part many times in my mind so will have to go one day. Probably will be from the north and maybe via The Hoe with a highlight hopefully being to see that waterfall. That does sound like reasonably easy walking over Healabhal Bheag too though so got me thinking.
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Re: Finding a quiet corner on Skye

Postby Collaciotach » Sun Jul 16, 2017 10:44 pm

Superb stuff :clap: :clap: :clap:
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