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Following a Tuesday of wind, rain and cloud, the next day's forecast was much more promising. The main concern, to me, was indications of strong winds, maybe 40mph, but those should be easing through the afternoon, especially further east and inland. That made me decide on a late start, which would rule out bigger groups of hills.
Putting all of that together, I decided to try some of the Black Mount group, starting with Stob a'Choire Odhair. There's steep ground and a ridge walk to continue this route, but hopefully things would have settled down by then. If not, then it'd need a decision whether conditions felt safe or to return.
All that delay, intentional this time, meant that I only set out from the carpark shortly before 11:30, after the usual inspiring drive through Glencoe, across Rannoch Moor and down the curving road to Loch Tulla. I started to appreciate what a glance at the road atlas hasn't quite conveyed. These hills are very close to Glencoe as the raven glides (or wind blows), but further away for cars, let alone boots, to reach.
Boots were out aplenty, since some of the minor road from Bridge of Orchy to Victoria Bridge coincides with the West Highland Way. The groups hiking along may have been even happier to see the bright, dry morning than I was. And, leaving the car, there was only a breeze, something to appreciate in the sunshine with plenty of altitude to gain.
- Parking near Victoria Bridge
I was soon off the tarmac, though that was followed by a nearly-level track. But that runs alongside the river Tulla, with hill views in every direction, so was about as fine an approach as you could wish. And, soon, the Clashgour Hut came into sight, though it seemed strange to think that could have been a school during its previous use.
The Hut was also the sign to turn right, leaving the hard vehicle tracks for a wet path, whose eroded ruts and dips held water from the recent downpours.
- Track up from Clashgour
But that did nothing to dampen my enthusiasm (and only splashed my boots superficially), while the burn was flowing well and a fine waterfall came into sight, flowing down a shoulder of Stob Ghabhar ahead and on my left.
- Creag an Steallaire
I was intending to continue from the second Munro, if all went well, to visit two Tops out to the west. So I wouldn't be descending from the ridge behind the waterfall and this would be my closest view of the cascade. The path ahead had slightly less to draw the eye, though it grew drier and firmer underfoot while gradually gaining height. There were some high clouds over for this stage, which felt quite welcome since toiling uphill beneath the sun would have grown very warm. After a couple of walks with poorer weather, I was out in a long-sleeved top, but at least one where the arms rolled up to catch more of any breeze.
- Above Allt Toaig
I paused, not just to confirm my path (which should head up the southern shoulder of Stob a'Choire Odhar) but for a drink and bite to eat. But I'd caught a glimpse of two walkers further up that same ascent, so decided to press on and find whether I could meet them at the summit. This felt quite a task in the warm midday conditions and I was soon wishing for more cooling breezes, mixed with a slight concern whether strong winds would manifest once exposed to northerly directions.
The path up Stob a'Choire Odhair was slightly rougher than the one I had left, with plenty of wear from foot-traffic, more a use-path than something constructed. But it improved, zigging and zagging up onto a shoulder of the hill, while I tried to gauge my progress with glimpses of Beinn Toaig to my left. Rounded slopes meant that I'd had no more glimpses of the other walkers, so I promised myself a lunch stop and breather on reaching the top.
- Stob Ghabhar
The ground became stonier near the top, but not what I'd call really bouldery. The other walkers were at the summit, a Scottish mother and daughter deciding whether to continue onto Stob Ghabhar. They mentioned having see one other walker out, probably headed around towards Creise for a longer route. I took a stop for some oatcakes and to enjoy the breeze, while they headed down the west ridge for a more sheltered lunch stop.
There were good views down to Rannoch Moor, though feeling overshadowed by the height of Stob Ghabhar in the opposite direction. So I was soon away, descending westwards by a mixture of the path and my own wanderings. There's some rougher ground, but in dry weather it was a joy to be out, especially getting to see my surroundings rather than be battered by the weather as I was the walk before.
I caught up and accompanied the other two, for some chat while heading down to the bealach. Then continued on the path that I'd seen (as on the O/S map), which ascends gradually at first towards a much steeper section. The path there was rough and rubbly in parts, so I'd think much better to ascend than try descending, but twists and turns to find its way up.
- Zigzags onto the Couloir buttress
Atop the Couloir Buttress, views opened out again. I noticed a tent camped within Corein Lochain, nestled high between two ridges of Stob Ghabhar. And that the other walkers had also started along the path leading to the ascent. I glimpsed them a few more times later, so confirmed that they reached the upper ridge onto Stob Ghabhar, though my own route took a different turn after that.
- Buachaille Etive Mor and Nevis in the cloud
The next part of the ridge is called Aonach Eagach, but despite the name is a pleasant, albeit slightly narrow and exposed, ridge walk rather than akin to its more famous namesake. So I could enjoy the sunshine, returned after some not-unwelcome shade for the ascent, with stunning views now stretching further in every direction
There's a broader shoulder after the narrow ridge, then a short stonier climb to the untidy cairn itself. I paused here for another late installment of lunch and to feast on the surrounding panorama.
- Stob a'Choire Odhair and Rannoch Moor
I'm getting to recognise more hills, whether from walking them or the maps, but it's always good to see something that you've walked in more "interesting" weather. In this case, the Ballachulish hills where I had been slogging through the wind and cloud just over 24 hours before.
- Beinn a Bheithir behind the Creran and Etive hills
While other hills tend not to show themselves. The retiring Bidean nam Bian, with its many ridges and Tops, looked quite magnificent. This might have had influenced a decision to push my luck with the next day's forecast, but that's another walk report ...
- Bidean nam Bian
Another of the many directions drawing my attention was the "Rannoch Wall" of hills behind Bridge of Orchy. I'd had some views when walking these last June, but never so bright or far as this. I could just about see (though not photograph) the faint sheep-path that I'd managed to wander onto and so find my way around to the summit of Beinn Dorain as the weather came in later on that day. For now, though, conditions were wonderful, such that I was almost kicking myself for not starting earlier and having time to extend this walk further north.
- Bridge of Orchy Munros behind the other Aonach Eagach
Instead, my route went west along a gradually-descending ridge to visit two further Munro Tops. This is easy walking, mostly grassy after the first descent from Stob Ghabhar. The ridge is long and broad, sloping gradually away with minimal reascent to either of the tops, though those spread more of the sprawling web of ridges centred upon Stob Ghabhar itself.
- Sron a'Ghearrain and Stob a' Bhruaich Leith
There was a slightly peaty area across Bealach Coire Laoghan, then some stonier ground and outcrops, but nothing arduous. So I was already planning my descent (and, for that matter, dinner). Rather than retrace my steps too far, I could traverse some of the shallow corrie east of Lurg Bhan to join a path towards the Allt Ghabhar. There was even the prospect of tagging on an extra bump, to console myself for the easy walking. That'd add slightly to the distance, more significantly to the ascent and descent, as well as involve some peat hags and the rough ground where I always seem to wander.
- Meall an Araich (on the left)
I headed down across the corrie as intended, taking advantage of the burns to top up on water during a snack stop. And my customary flower photo for the walk.
- Spotted orchid
I did spot another walker, with a substantial pack, some way behind me at this stage. Far enough off that I didn't turn towards them but continued to an area of dry peat-hags between the main slopes and the outlying top of Meall an Araich. There were some golden plover calling and staying in view, though I kept to my route, away from them, in case they were concerned about a nesting area.
My last little hill started to look more substantial and rocky the closer that I got, with some rocky areas towards the summit, though those would have been easy enough to work around if so inclined. Instead, I ambled up and over the lumpy area to find what felt most like a summit.
- View back to Stob Ghabhar
Everything was downhill from then on. As the map warned, steeply downhill, especially rocky to the east above the path that I needed to join. Rather than retrace my steps (something that I avoid when there's much alternative), it looked viable to descend the still-quite-steep southern side, then traverse around after I was beneath the worst of the outcrops and craggy bits.
There was still a lot of height to lose, over not a lot of distance, but enough space to pick my way around bits of slabby sloping rock, if not avoid wetter areas. That might explain my disturbing some frogs along the way; luckily, we were able to prevent any squashy meetings of boot and amphibian, leaving both of us intact to hop away with a clear conscience.
- Shy frog
As the slope eased, I veered more to my left, aiming towards the path before things became too boggy. That also helped to minimise the amount of fern and deeper heather along the way, as I'm quite cautious about acquiring ticks nowadays. I also caught another glimpse of the backpacker from earlier, so lengthened my stride along the path towards some forestry.
That path, or track, had some wet sections, though nothing managed to grab my ankles or cause any delay. I had a choice of crossings and used a wooden bridge that had seen better days to get over the Allt Ghabhar.
- Bridges over Allt Ghabhar
Soon after this, I caught up with Malcolm who had been out camping and walking for several days, including yesterday's rain and wind. We shared the last few miles back, past the farm at Clashgour, then through woods and along the river. I admitted my own tendencies as a fair-weather camper and bothy-user when it rained, but enjoyed the chat and it did help prompt me to get some use of my tent later during this trip.
Malcolm was deciding whether or where to camp for a final night and considering stopping by Bridge of Orchy for the evening. So I offered a lift along the short minor road, to spare a couple of miles and save his energy for finding a good site that evening. He accepted, which also gave me a chance to tell of the time I'd been given a lift after walking the Arran Corbetts, letting me reach Lochranza in time for the last ferry that evening.
Any good karma from the lift might not have lasted long, since the next day's weather was back to being interesting. But, as I say, that's another walk report (needing to be written).