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Ardnamurchan, Moidart, & Ardgour are presently irresistible
The Ardnamurchan peninsula is a land shaped by volcanic activity. The landscape is wild, rugged & austere, lending itself to a feeling of remoteness & unspoilt beauty. It boasts some of the most stunning beaches with silvery sands and turquoise beaches. Its mountains are rugged with views to the Western Isles and beyond. The scenery is diverse, from lochs, open moors and lush woodland.
I cycled here over 6 weeks ago then came back two weeks after to do some walking and a summit camp. This trip would combine both with a wild camp thrown in. My plan was to cycle 80 miles then find a nice spot to take in a sunset looking out to the Western Isles. An exploration day would follow this.
On Wednesday the 12th of July I left Glasgow at 7am. Instead of the usual hop over on the Corran Ferry I decided to drive around, via the road to Malliag, to Lochailort Train Station. My 80 miles cycle would start and end here. I would then find a spot to wild camp for the evening, in the hope of witnessing a lovely sunset
At 11am I began my cycle in glorious sunshine, an almighty grin stretched across my face. And those views...
Ben Nevis - An Alternative View.
The first half of the cycle was fantastic, quiet roads with uninterrupted views all around. I stooped at Strontian for some local sandwiches and juice. If cycling from Corran then Acharacle is better suited as at halfway. The last 40 miles were more strenuous due to undulations and steep hills.
Quick pit stop at Glenuig Bay - Views to Eigg & Rum
I arrived back at the station around 5pm and quickly changed into walking gear - shorts & t-shirt. I had spotted a possible camping pitch back at Glenuig so I jumped in the car and drove back down the coast 8 miles.
The potential spot did not disappoint and I quickly set up camp
I had 4 hours to kill till sunset so I stripped to my shorts, got out the beach towel, and sunbathed
. Incredibly there were no midges around, a surprise given how little the wind was blowing.
At around 10pm I got the camera ready for the sunset...it was rather nice
I watched the sunset for around 30 minutes, very content with my day so far. Being in the wilderness melts away any negativity or stresses from everyday normal life, it invigorates and re-energizes
I popped into my tent at 11pm and drifted to sleep with the soft cascading ripples of the waves nearby.
I woke at 4.30am, popping out in the hope of catching a sunrise. It wasn't to be, so a toilet break and back in my little tent. I woke at 6.30am, the clarity to the isles was pretty good.
My plan for today was to visit some beaches, a castle ruin, a coastal walk, & a woodland walk. I managed them all
My first stop was a short drive around Glenuig to its small sandy beach. I met a couple from Brighton, literally just emerging from their tent. We chatted a while, I provided them with all the print outs I had from this site
The Sandy Bay
Further up the road
Next it was to find the old ruin that is Castle Tioram which was built in the 13th century. It sits on a small rocky island and is only reached by a causeway when at low tide. Unfortunately the tide was high when I arrived.
View on the drive to Castle Tioram
The Castle
From near here is the silver walk. A walk that hugs the rugged shoreline around Loch Moidart. A spectacular linear route with rocky steps and vertical drops. Its absolutely a joy to walk. Luckily I had this to myself, stopping many times with my eye staring across the loch and surrounding wilderness.
Not having a car at the other end of the walk I merely retraced my steps. I met a woman on her bike, back near the castle. She informed me she was doing a tour of Scotland. her bike was fully laden with camping gear. Incredibly she had a broken foot, but this didn't deter her
Feeling hungry I left and made my way to Acharacle for breakfast. There is a shop & small bakery here. I went into both. Cheese & Onion Pasty, Egg Roll, & Cheese Salad Roll. Sorted for the day ahead
Nearby, a drive of 2 miles, is Kentra & Ardtoe. It feels very remote down this single track road. To get here you drive through open moorlands which appears incongruent from the rugged wild landscapes from before. I spent over an hour here and had my lunch.
Next I made my way back down the west coast, parking up at ancient oak woodlands near Loch Sunart. Garbh Eilean would provide a viewing platform for otters, seals, and heron. An elevated boardwalk takes you to a wooded hide. Views out to Loch Sunart provide wildlife sightings.
There's also a woodland route which I decided to walk. The sun was still hot when peaking through the dramatic cloudline, still had to stick on the factor 50! I spotted a gap through the woodland which went down to the shoreline of Loch Sunart. I ventured down and spent some time here. Great spot for a camp I thought
You can see the "hide" from here. Look far left
I had packed a lot into my two days so decided to head for home. The icing on the cake was witnessing a bird of prey ( I really couldn't tell what it was as driving) fly across me with what looked like a little mouse in its mouth! Incredible to witness this!
My mini adventure had now come to its end. But I shall return to this magnificent area of Scotland soon. There is so much I have still to discover, so much adventure,...I also want to do that cycle in reverse