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A'Mhorbhairne or Morvern is a much overlooked corner of the Highlands and the area is largely ignored by hillwalkers in pursuit of more lofty mountains there being no Munro's or Corbett's to tick off on the journey. There is however a profusion of sub 2000's to be explored ,remote and which afford grand views being largely situated on the near coast.
It is a hidden and very quiet area which is largely devoid of people due to "an fuadach nan Ghàidheal" .The district is rich in history and at one time was the epi-center of the Gàidhealtachd politics and power.
In or around 1113 Somhairle MhicGillebride was born to Gillebride MhicGilleadaman in Morvern . Although the records do not record exactly where in the sea-gap he was born, history does record that the Somerled or the "Summer Warrior" would expel the Lochlannach (Norsemen) from much of the Gàidhealtachd and become Ri Innse Gall or the 1st Lord of the Isles.
One tradition has this famous warrior born at Ceann Loch a' Linnhe or Kinlochaline where the route for this walk begins.
An Sleaghach was the target and this sub2000 sits way out on the edge of Morvern above Eilean Lios Mor (lismore) and the Linnhe Seileach (Loch Linnhe).I have been out here many times but for some reason never climbed the hill always saving her for another day !
We started at Achranaich on Ardtornish Estate where a new hydro track keeps the feet dry for much of the route to Loch Tearnait . I have connections here and was able to take the car a wee bit further than would usually be permitted
- Achrainich rathad
It is a straightforward and pleasant stroll past the newly created loch at Luib an arbhair where land that once grew corn is now drowned to provide power for the hydro scheme.
A few kilometers of easy walking brings you to Loch Tearnait and the Leac Raneach bothy situated on the shores.
- Bothan Leac Raneach
The bothy carries the usual tales of "hauntings" that these quiet places create usually by those who spend a night in unaccustomed quietness. That said i have heard good tales from older folk in the District about Leac Raneach bothy that would make the hairs on your neck stand up, believable supernatural occurrences linked to previous well known and reliable occupants. These involved shepherds who used the bothy reporting the outside door opening on a dark Autumn night with the subsequent hearing of footfall in the room, growling sheep dogs and on investigation no one else but the occupants inside. The incidents are linked to a drowning in Loch Tearnait back in time when the area was populated and worked by the Gàidheal prior to our ethnic cleansing.
Once Loch Tearnait is reached you link onto the old track under Guala an Tuir which leads over to Eagnaig on the coast. It is a wet and boggy affair with hags ,burns ,fords and rocky craggy moorland to negotiate and at around the 240m mark strike of for an obvious burn Allt Dubh Dhoire Thèarnait. Here a craggy we jumble of rocky Tòrran leads you up onto the moonscape heights of Meall a ' Chaorainn the neighbour summit to An Sleaghach.
- Loch Tèarnait
Here you can get your first sighting of the Linnhe Seileach and Eilean Lìos Mor. In the Gàidhlig world we split Loch Linnhe in two at the Corran narrows. The Loch above that point is known traditionally as An Linnhe dubh (the deep dark pool ) below that An Linnhe Seileach (the salty pool).
- An Linnhe Seileach
There is a wee sprackly hollow between this summit and An Sleaghach called Lagan a' bhuic (hollow of the buck or perhaps billy goat). From here the target can be seen quite well...
- An Sleaghach
Its a rocky wee hill and an enjoyable scrabble up to the summit which gives you extensive views out over the Linnhe Seileach
- An Càrn (Tuath)
- An Càrn a ribhist
You find a trig point as well ,not sure which is the highest mind ! ...
- Trig
We spent a good hour on the summit which affords extensive views to the islands and inland . The weather was a bit grey but still a grand viewpoint and not difficult to believe this would have been a prominent warning hill in the days of Ri Innse Gall and the Lochlannach .
- Muile agus Dun da Gaoith
- An tir
- An cù
From the summit we then headed West toward Glas Bheinn via An Dunan over the haggy , peat moor of the Garbh Slios, the rough side it is with much maneuvering through bog and Glac
- An Garbh Slios
An Dunan is a remarkable rocky tòrr that hanging over Srath Shuardail and is compose of basalt rock which leads out under the summit of Glas Bheinn , another fine viewpoint on a clear day.
- Glas Bheinn creagan
- An Dùnan
We reached Glas Bheinn summit and with weather starting to move did not linger to long
- Glas Bheinn
- A' Mhorbhairne
It was then down onto the wet Bealach a Goirtean Dheirg to another new hydro track which follows the Allt na Socach over Monadh nan Còrr and back to the days starting point at Lochan Lùb nan Arbhair .
We can recommend the Morvern hills to anyone but beware they can be hard going , wet and tough. There is a palpable sense of sadness in this district with the remains of past lives all to evident, even deep in the interior but the views from the coast are grand . It is worth the effort if you get the chance.
Cheerie a nis