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When Anne announced that the WH Summer Meet was going to be in Tongue, like most people, the first thing I did was Google it. Where on earth was Tongue?!
Location of Tongue confirmed, the next emotion was excitement – Ben Loyal! I had seen this mountain from both Ben Hope and Ben Klibreck and had been excited to climb it ever since.
But Tongue was an awfully long drive
Originally I’d had a plan to take a few days to get there but weather and health had conspired against me, so I drove up on Friday. Roadworks on the A9 and an accident where a canal barge had come off a trailer and blocked both carriageways held me up further, and then there was the small matter of 40 miles of single track roads from Lairg to Tongue.
Ben Klibreck
But at last I was there! There were some old faces as well as some new and a lovely evening was had
The Magnificent 7 take on Ben LoyalBen Loyal
Saturday 29th July 2017
15.68km
909m ascent
6 hours 35 minutes
The following morning 7 of us set off from the hostel; Sue, David, Heather, Lynne, Ross, James and myself. We drove the few miles down the road, passed the parking spot, watched as Ross drove into a ditch, rescued Ross and parked up.
The team readying itself
It was an easy walk down the track initially; we passed Ribigil Farm and went through a couple of gates. Eventually the track became boggier and then it just became a bog. But the banter was flowing freely and Ben Loyal was rising impressively ahead of us.
The footbridge marked on the map did not exist (and didn’t appear to have for some time) but the crossing wasn’t difficult and despite there being several cameras around nobody fell in
Once across the worst of the swamp it was a decent path up a steep section. The sun was shining and there was no rush.
The team taking a break
Looking back to Tongue
The path seemed to peter out and after various consultations with maps and GPS and a lot of finger pointing and shoulder shrugging we eventually picked a line up in between crags. It was pathless and steep and we took our time.
Another breather or “photo break”
Soon a lochan came into view with the striking Beinn Stumanadh behind
And then we were finally on the ridge! The summit is on the left, but first we wanted to take a diversion to Sgor Chaonasaid, a top.
As we approached this top, the rain arrived, along with this rainbow
The others approaching Sgor Chaonasaid
There was a wee scramble up to the top (and some of us climbed up an awkward slab just for funsies
) but the views were awesome
Waterproofs were quickly donned.
Ben Loyal
Heading for the summit
We could see Martin, George and Parminder on the summit ahead of us and as we made our way over we met the terrible threesome. George’s trousers were fortunately intact today (if you weren’t there you don’t want to know
)
We all decided to be a bit silly
The path led us to the summit of Ben Loyal; An Caisteal. It was a stunning viewpoint! The rain had only lasted a couple of minutes and waterproofs were removed.
Ross and Sue approaching
Group shot
We met The Rodmeister on the summit
And the traditional Jaxter pose
It was very windy and unfortunately my hat blew off over a cliff. It was gone forever
I made up for littering by picking up a hula hoops packet
David trying to look pensive
Onwards along the ridge
Back towards Tongue
As we left the summit Ben Hope cleared
Beinn Stumanadh
Morven and friends
A decision was made not to continue along the ridge – the weather was set to come in and it was supposed to be a bog-fest. I would return another time and do the full traverse.
We headed down, cutting off the corner and heading directly downwards. Apparently this is a cloudberry
The promised weather seemed to be going the opposite way…sunny Tongue
It was a steep descent but wasn’t as bad as we had imagined. However there were some slips and it was pretty entertaining viewing
Ben Hope in glorious sunshine
The river crossing was safely negotiated – the team here looking relieved
Waiting for the others to catch up; moody weather threatening
Back at the hostel without incident it had turned into a lovely afternoon. Some people headed for showers others for booze. I had a wander down to the beach where there were some lovely views of Ben Loyal and out to sea.
I had an accidental dip in the sea which wasn’t as cold as it looked; the photos of which will remain hidden
John treated us to a fabulous quiz and “The Big Holes” were victorious
(Thanks David for the photo!)
The Worst Timing EverCrankstackie & Beinn Spionnaidh
Sunday 30th July
14km
1081m ascent
5 hours 15 minutes
The following morning was a slow one; I was in no rush to leave as I wasn’t heading home so had a leisurely breakfast and saw people off. The entertainment of the morning consisted of John’s missing wallet that turned up in “a very safe place” much to everyone’s relief
Eventually I said my goodbyes and headed off. It was a beautiful morning and I stopped for photos along the way.
Ben Hope
Loch Eriboll and Foinaven & friends
Cranstackie and Beinn Spionnaidh
Beaches – could easily be the Caribbean
Beinn Spionnaidh and Cranstackie
The weather was still looking good so I stuck my boots on and headed off along the track. Lovely afternoon for a few hills
As I walked down the track towards Rhigolter Farm I could see excellent views of Foinaven
There was a new track that took me further up than marked but eventually I was on grassy and indistinct paths alongside the Allt Chalbhach Coire. The weather was coming in and it was beginning to look like I was in for a shower….
Looking back….ominous
Rhigolter Farm
As I climbed into Chalbhach Coire I had to stop to add waterproofs. And hide my friend’s very expensive DSLR camera in several layers of drybags
I made my way along the base of the coire – very boggy in places and very little path. By the time I was climbing up to the bealach at the head of the coire it was raining very heavily and I was beginning to regret my “quick afternoon hills” idea
It was steep, grassy and boggy but eventually I reached the bealach. The views were non-existant.
The map was already partially disintegrated after last summers Cape Wrath adventure so a quick check in the pouring rain made little difference
I followed the grassy ridge upwards then steep boulders up to the summit plateau where I found a large cairn. Huzzah
Cranstackie summit!
I had spectacular views of the inside of a cloud…
and retreated quickly as it was unlikely to change. As I dropped down to the bealach I gained a bit of visibility and could see the ridge rising up Beinn Spionnaidh
A brief moment of clarity before the powershower was turned back on
The climb up onto Beinn Spionnaidh was easy enough until I reached the boulders which were slippery in the wet. Despite trying to take care I managed to slip near the summit and went over painfully on my ankle
I’m sure most of us have had those “oh S***” moments and this was definitely one of mine. After a few minutes of language that would have made my mother hand me a bar of soap, the pain subsided and I was able to walk. Phew….
I made it the few metres to the summit and celebrated my damaged ankle by balancing on a trig point…
Lovely views again
Despite the conditions I paused for a sandwich and to let my ankle recover….
For a moment it did look like clearing. But it didn’t.
I started getting cold so it was time to scoot. I found my way onto the descent ridge and did some very careful boulder-hopping.
It was decent walking on the ridge and once I dropped a little lower I could see glimpses of views
It was a very steep descent off the ridge down to Rhigolter Farm and I found myself being very careful on my newly gammy ankle and old gammy knee. What an old crock
Safely on the track it was an easy march back to the car. Things did seem to be clearing….
In fact, after one more very heavy shower it did clear completely and turned into a gorgeous evening. Typical
Colonel Mustard, the pot of gold
Foinaven
What wouldn’t I have given for a wide angle lens here…
Of course they’re clear now
I drove back up the road a few miles, checked the Cape Wrath Ferry times…
…before finding a wonderful camp spot to watch the sun go down.
Cape Wrath – the easy way!Monday 31st July 2017
Last year’s ill-fated Cape Wrath attempt meant that I never actually made it to the Cape. It was time for another attempt. I had breakfast at Cocoa Mountain and treated myself to the best hot chocolate in the world, recharged camera batteries and checked in with Facebook
I headed down to the Ferry in plenty of time to avoid the issues of last time. There was a bit of cloud around but it was a bonny day.
The minibus ride to Cape Wrath was long and bumpy but very interesting. It had felt like a long walk last time and I hadn’t even gone all the way
Arriving at the lighthouse we were allowed some time to explore…
Kearvaig Bay just visible
Cliffs
I decided to have a wee wander uphill as I wanted a view of the lighthouse with the sea
Down the cliffs to Kearvaig
I saw a cairn and then a trig point and got a bit carried away
Checking the map later I discovered this was Dunan Mor, the most Northerly trig point
A stone circle
Sandwood Bay
There was time for a quick piece of cake before the ride back. This is the Cathedral stack
The Kearvaig bridge
As we got the ferry over the rain arrived and everything became very atmospheric
I decided that my ankle would be fine by the next day so drove down to Laxford Bridge, took a left and found a camp spot by Loch More. The midges were in fine form but the spot was lovely.
Ben Stack
Loch Stack
Arkle reflections
Bonny camp spot views
It was time for some scran and making use of my loaned camera
The sun gone, it was time for sleep as the weather suggested an early start the next morning.
That one with the long nameMeallan Liath Coire Mhich Dhughaill
Tuesday 1st August 2017
16.86km
959m ascent
5 hours 40 mins
I was awake bright and early and decided to get going. I left the tent up, wanting to get the best of the good weather on the hill and not sure of my plans for later. I drove a mile down the road to the parking area, booted up and set off. It was a gorgeous morning!
Down Loch More to Ben Stack
Just before reaching Aultanrynie Farm the track took off uphill, zig-zagging its way uphill. It was already warm and the track was hot work.
Looking back towards Kinloch
Ben Stack again
Dhugaill ahead
Ben Stack from a bit further up
The track crossed a conveniently placed stream which was welcome to replenish water supplies. The track continued uphill and swung around the imposing 513 spot before reaching a cairn. From here traces of the track continued for a while and there were a few bootprints, evidence of people here before
Ben Hee had now become visible – this was a possible hill for the next day
Loch Merkland
The Meallan Liath Beag ridge, with a friend
In the glorious morning conditions there were no routefinding issues and I was able to meander my way across rocky lumps and bumps and around (and sometimes through
) the more boggy sections
Is this a cairn or just a pile of rocks?
The impressive Quinag had become visible
Looking back to Loch Merkland and an erratic on the far right
Quinag again
Loch Ulbhach Coire and Carn an Tionail
Reaching the final steep climb up onto the ridge, it was a lesson in Geography! Weathering in action
Quinag
I found this climb quite tough – I was definitely starting to feel my legs and my goodness it was warm
But coming out onto the top, the views opened out and the views out to Foinaven and Arkle were stunning
Foinaven
Quinag – I couldn’t stop looking at these hills!
The ridge continued to the summit. I was tempted to go out to Carn Dearg as the ridge looked great. But I was conscious of the weather coming in at lunchtime and I could feel my ankle again. So the summit it was.
Ben Hope
The awesome Ben Loyal
Hope and Loyal
Back to Loch Merkland
Nearly at the top, Foinavon and Arkle looked fabulous
Foinaven
The summit reached, the views of Loch Stack and Ben Stack were awesome
Quinag
Even Suilven was peeking out to join the party
Foinaven
I sat myself down in the shelter as it was pretty windy and tried to get some mobile signal. I needed a weather forecast
I sat around for a while enjoying the views and checked in with base camp (my Mum
) The weather didn’t seem to have changed, which meant that I needed to get off the hill quickly to avoid getting wet
However with gammy ankle, nothing was happening fast, other than possibly face-planting into a bog
I headed down the ridge of Meallan Liath Coire Mhic Dhughaill, across boulders and grass before it became steep and sloshy.
This is Ben Leoid
There were some cool slabs in the river
Looking back to Dhughaill
Across the boggy Poll an Reinidh, I hopped safely over the burn and made way through more bogs before picking up the outward zig-zags.
New friend
I could see the weather coming down the loch – it was a race against it to get back to the car and get the tent down in the dry…
I made it to the car in the dry, however the heavens opened as I arrived at the tent. Doh
I was feeling a bit gross anyway so just jumped in the loch for a wee wash
Bit chilly but very refreshing
Tent down at last I headed back down the road. It was time for a wee outing in Assynt
Suilven was looking spectacular
When in Assynt….a visit to Lochinver was in order
The stoneware pottery shop is always worth a look
Then I went to the pie shop and ate pie
Before heading for the beach
And a camp spot
I was able to sit and relax; had a good book and a pretty decent view for the evening
Luckily there was a breeze to keep the midges at bay, but it started getting chilly
As the sun disappeared I crawled into my sleeping bag to watch it from there
I was so comfortable than I must have nodded off
I woke up about 11.30 to find silence and a beautiful night. Fortunately all that had got into the tent were a few beetles and a slug
The Canisp Circular – a Jaxter special!Canisp
Wednesday 2nd August 2017
20.47km
1030m ascent
7 hours 20 mins
I had a wonderful sleep that night (after banishing the slug
) and was in no hurry to get going as the forecast was for cloud until 11.
The locals were watching
I headed down the road towards my start point for the day and got my things together. The forecast was so good I decided to take extra lenses with me. More weight but hopefully worth it
I headed down the path towards the bridge and could see out to Loch Awe
Loch na Gruagaich with Cnoc an Leathaid Bhuidhe behind
Canisp ahead
It was very boggy, definitely a day for waterproof socks
I passed a family who were looking enviously at my gaiters having left theirs in the car
The path kind of petered out and I made my way up, keeping as far left as I could for the views. Cul Mor was looking impressive
And then wee Polly started to peek out
Cam Loch and South towards Ullapool
With some serious height gained and finding a spot with enough breeze to keep bugs at bay I had a play with the camera
Suilven appeared, rising above Loch na Gainimh
Looking back to the Ben More Assynt, Conival and Breabag ridge
The climb itself wasn’t hugely interesting – it was steep in places, boggy lower down before becoming rockier towards the top. But what an absolutely amazing viewpoint
I couldn’t take my eyes off Suilven – what a hill!
The approach from Lochinver
And zoomed to Suileag bothy where I stayed last summer
Stac Pollaidh
Suilven summit
Sunny Suilven
It was most definitely lunchtime so I enjoyed some excellent views with my sandwiches. The family I’d overtaken earlier arrived – their wee boy had done well
An Teallach
I dislike an out-and-back route and I’d made a plan. Unable to do a traverse through to Lochinver without another car, I had considered the possibility of coming back over Suilven but figured that may be too much for gammy ankle that was already making itself known. So I settled for the Canisp circular – I could drop down the other side before looping back along the lochans.
An Teallach on the right
It was a really nice descent – much easier than retracing my steps would have been. It was amazing to see how the rock changed on the summit. Grey shattered boulders on the way up, red Inverpolly rock on the Lochinver side.
I met a couple of people coming up here – it was nice to hear about their adventures; they had camped on Suilven the night before. I lost the path in amoungst the bogs soon after and made my way steadily downwards.
Back to Canisp
I did manage to pick up the path again and it made for an easy descent down to Loch an Gainimh
There was even a crash barrier in case I picked up speed…
Here I picked up the track along the loch and headed on the long trek back. Suilven continued to dominate
The path was very boggy in places and was easy to lose. I found myself scrambling along the side of the gorge that was Gleann Dorcha
I then realised that there was actually a path above which made for much easier walking
Coming out at Lochan Fada the path became even sketchier
Eventually I realised that there was no path at all and started making my way up and over as I was needing to curve back around towards the car. It was very hot and I was tired but the scenery was just wonderful.
The Canisp ridge
Looking behind – Suilven and Lochan Fada
I think this is the Fisherfield hills
Canisp
Cul Mor
Suilven
Ben More Assynt ridge
Suilven and Canisp
Lochans
Looking back up Canisp
I soon found myself bog-hopping again and I dragged myself the last few metres towards the car. Back towards Canisp
My feet were a bit too sodden to appreciate the irony of this sign at the time
Loch Awe
It had been a long day and it was 6pm when I made it back to the car! With the wind picking up and the weather set to break any minute I had decided to head home. As I drove down the road I had to stop when I saw this in the rear view mirror….
It was a very long way home and I was tempted to stop for the duck race….
South of Inverness the weather became horrible and it was a very tired Jaxter that arrived home after midnight and collapsed into bed after another wonderful Northern Adventure
