free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
How to tackle the Skye Munros had been on my mind for ages. Looking at them from Glen Brittle for the first time over a year ago, they seemed so difficult and completely different to any other Munro I have climbed before. Listening to stories and reading trip reports also did not help, as everyone seemed to have at least one horror story to tell.
I really did not wanted to hire a guide, but I liked the idea doing them with a friend more.
The answer to my question came in back in Spring, when I was contacted by Craig who I had met previously on the Forcan Ridge. ‘Do you fancy doing the Cuillins together this summer? ‘ OMG that sounded perfect and Craig was the perfect person, experienced in rock climbing and confident on tricky ground.
We stayed in contact until summer and discussed suitable dates and gear until a perfect weather window allowed us to set a final date. Craig had done the ridge with a friend before and was confident enough that he should find most of the ways.
Sgurr nan Gillean via Pinnacle Ridge, Am Basteir and Bruach na Frithe9.15 hours
High clouds gave hazy , but dry views towards the Cuillins when we met during Saturday lunchtime at Sliaghan.‘ I think we should do Pinnacle Ridge up Sgurr nan Gillean’, Craig suggested once we had sorted our gear out and shouldered the heavy backpacks. Looking up at the 4 massive pinnacles in the distance and I gulped a OK. Like myself Craig does not do easy routes up the hills, but I would never had dreamed starting with Pinnacle ridge.
Pinnacle Ridge...certainly the most awesome way up!
The walk towards the Pinnacles was easy and I felt a mix of excitement and terror. I was finally here, but had no idea what to expect. The scenery was beautiful and we made good progress until we stood in front in front of the first pinnacle. We had a quick bite to eat while checking out the description from the excellent Skye Scrambles book and got ready.
Ready to climb the Cuillins
Once we were ready Craig led the way and I followed. It was hands on straight from the start and the marvelous gabbro was more than reassuring that this would be an amazing climb. My nervousness disappeared completely within the first 5 minutes, this was simply awesome. Huge drops to all sites, but the hand and foot holds were so grippy that I felt really save.
Probably too much for Craigs liking , because while I had no issues with steep drops to either side (as long as I had good hold) he preferred to stay clear of them and use less scary drops with worse handholds, which I found rather scary.
Looking back the way we came up
When Craig suddenly stopped and uttered a ‘wow’, I climbed the next few steps towards him to see what the matter was. Looking over the edge of the rock was a huge drop. The only way to see the ground was to lean right over and Craig guessed it was a good 25-30 meters. Confused we looked around, did it mean we were on the 3rd pinnacle already? Seemed like it
Chuffed we unpacked the bags (not easy on the small ledge we were standing on) and unpacked the climbing gear…time for an abseil. While we got ready two other climbers approached and we had a chat. 'Right' Craig proclaimed, I will go first and then you can follow me. The only slight issue I had was the fact that even though I had abseiled in the past (a good 6 years ago
) I could not remember how
‘Ehm how do I abseil again?’
I had to ask. He looked at me in disbelieve…’Do don’t know how to abseil?’
Once I had reassured him and received a super quick how to, he was away. Nervously I fumbled around with the rope until he shouted up that he was down and I should follow. Once I followed my past experienced flowed back and I remember how much fun it had been.
Craig abseiling
Looking back to the third pinnacle. You can just about make out the other 2 climbers and their rope
That was easy I said with a grin on my face when I reached the bottom next to him. We packed the rope away and continued the down climb through a gully and up to Knights Peak .
Myself on Knights Peak...with my 'gardening gloves' for which I got good slagging off
Craig showing how it should be done
Amazing views towards the Red Cuillins
Taking some photos we were close to Sgurr nan Gillean and continued towards the first Munto of the day. It was an awesome feeling – I had finally climbed the first black Cuillin. We took some pictures and enjoyed the views before we continued towards Am Basteir.
Craig on Sgurr nan Gillean
We did the first one
The walk towards Am Basteir. The 'needle' one has to squeeze through is just about visible on the right hand side
The section between Sgurr nan Gillean and Am Basteir requires a head for scrambling that’s for sure. Craig told me to leave my harness on, just in case I would need it down the bad step, but he was pretty determent to do it without any ropes.
We reached the steep down climb and he lead the way. ‘ Will you be ok without a rope’? , he asked, looking down I said sure. I climbed down the steep part , while Craig stayed close to help me if needed. Two other walkers with a rope bypassed us and I felt like superwoman as I had not needed a rope
! Once we completed the scramble we climbed up Am Basteir and yet again enjoyed the views before retracing our steps and walked around the tooth in order to avoid another abseil.
For the Cuillins you need to be happy to scramble up and down rocks like that
Am Basteir summit
Craig in action
Am Basteir and the Tooth
Amazing views
Summit of Bruach na Frithe
Craig on the way down...to the pub
Once we were back on the ridge we continued to Bruach na Frithe which was a spectacular view point. We sat and took in the views when while walking around I touched some rather unpleasant which I hoped animal feces urgh I shouted out and was happy that I had taken some wet wipes. Craig just cracked up that I had indeed wet wipes me with (totally unnecessary weight in his opinion) and told me that he would thoroughly go through my backpack for the day to follow.
I laughed and that was certainly not the last time I heard about my wet wipes
We returned down the scree and reached the pub at Sliaghan by 9:15pm. I think we are ready for tomorrow, Claig told me while we finished a pint in record time and set off to Glenbrittle campsite, where I still had to set up camp and have a shower.
Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr Dubh Mor, Sgurr Alasdair, Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, Inaccessible Pinnacle14.5 hours
My alarm woke me at 6:20 during the next morning. Getting ready and having breakfast I waited for Craig to arrive who had slept in his van somewhere along the Fairy Pools. Dividing the gear for the day ahead between us, we finally set off at 7:20. It was a beautiful and rather warm morning and I could feel the previous day in my bones. We continued along the excellent path, until we reached Coire Ghrunnda which was rather impressive.
Deer on the way up
Stopping at the loch we filled up the water bottles and gulped down a full bottle, as this would be the last chance to gather water for the +12 hour day ahead. The climb up towards the top was rocky, but did not provide any difficulties, perfect for a warm up.
We dumped the bags close to one of the sleeping shelters and continued towards Sgurr nan Eag the first Munro of the day.
The lochan, sleeping shelter and the impressive ridge ahead
It was relatively easy and when we reached the summit we sat for a while chatting to a couple who had driven up from Edinburgh the previous night, before retracing our steps and picking up the bags.
On the first summit of the day Sgurr nan Eag
On the way to the second Munro
A rather steep way down
Sgurr Alsdair and amazing views
First proper view of the In Pin
Sgurr Dubh Mor the second Munro of the day , is off the main ridge. We climbed Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn and continued with some tricky route finding towards our next target. Craig had found a path towards the left, while I was convinced it was the path towards the right. Both were possible, but as usual I had chosen the slightly more difficult one, which I had to admit to when we returned Craigs way on the way back.
On top of Sgurr Dubh Mor
In the distance on the TD gap.. .ropes seem to be rather overrated
The next Munro on the list was Sgurr Alsdair. Craig told me that that if you follow the ridge we would have to climb up the TD gap, but instead we would be taking the walk along the left hand side. A bit disappointed I agreed…from far away it simply looked awesome (close up it was a different story
) We made our way across and soon reached the wee cave which offered another overnight opportunity. I explored it while Craig studied the rock above us.
The cave below Sgurr Alsdair...what a view from it
Craig wondering whats the best way up could be...the way was up the chimney which he found soon after.
Moving along we stood in front of an impossible steep wall. Looking up I wasn’t quite so sure how to get up there. Looking at Craig for guidance he pointed out a chimney back the way we had come up. ‘ I think this is the way up’ The chimney looked anything but inviting, but Craig was sure that was the way and as usual he was right.
Standing in front it was a simple grade 3 climb and after an exposed climb we stood on Sgurr Alsdair which must have been one of my favorite ones. The views were stunning and after all the adventures, the In Pinn looked rather harmless in the distance.
Craig on Sgurr Alsdair summit
The view towards Collies Ledge
Me rather chuffed on top of Sgurr Alsdair
The ridge
Looking around the views were simply out of this world. , Sgurr Mhic Choinnic looked rather small, but what had our attention was the ridge walk and Collies Ledge in the far distance. The path looked simply amazing, yet rather impossible. We climbed down the main summit of Sgurr Alistair and made our way towards Sgurr Thearlaich.
On the way towards Collies Ledge
The ledge...it was hard to believe that this was a path!
As usual the scramble up was easy, but the down scramble was pretty hard going. If you fall, fall towards the left, were one of Craigs many instructions
and clinging to barely there hand holds while while making my way down, I had to admit that this was one of my least favorite parts of the walk so far.
Climbing down this bit was my least favorite
When we finally reached the bottom and looked up the bit we climbed down it seemed pretty impressive. With slightly shaky legs I moved on…Collies’s ledge was next. The walk across the high ridge was great and the ledge was far less intimidating than I had expected. Great handholds, but the drop is quite something.
I was leading as Mr Otherwise not scared, was less impressed with the drops than I was. Imagine a field with cows behind us, I told him. I think he must have thought I am nuts, but from that moment our description of scary parts were measured in cows
. Once we had successfully passed the ledge we climbed up to the small summit of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich.
On top of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich
We had climbed for well over 10 hours and I could feel the bur in my legs, but I was also excited to see the In Pin.
The In Pin was next on the list
Its a steep climb to the top
The way up the In Pin
The way up
Leaving the summit we made our way up the steep slope. It was tough going, but quicker than I had thought and once the In Pin came into view and stood in front of us in its full glory I could not believe the size. Somehow I had always imagined it smaller. We sat down and had a well earned break, before getting ready to climb. We had excepted a queue of people, but we were alone which made things a lot easier.
Craig went first and placed some protective gear while I belayed him from the bottom. In no time at all he was out of sight and standing alone at the bottom of the rock with the rope in my hand, ready to catch him, I looked up at the in pin, trying to figure out the best way up.
It had felt like ages , but I finally got the south that he was save and I could climb. I climbed up, it was easy, but I was still glad that I was attached to a rope, as plenty of loose rocks and the steep drop off could lead to disaster if something should happen . With no one telling me where to go and what to do , I really enjoyed the climb. Somehow I had expected that Craig would be on the top, but the ridge itself is too long to do it with a 50-60m rope. Instead he stood on a tiny ledge, saying that we had to change the belay. Clipping himself and myself into protector slings while changing the rope around felt scary and I clung to the rock. Once Craig was done he told me to continue to belay him, not that easy, as I had to let go of the rock for that and trust the slings. I am up came the south soon after and un-clipping myself from the 3 protectors I added the gear to the other gear I had removed on the way up. Continuing the climb. I reached the top with a wide grin across my face. I had done it!
The In Pin is done
Second time for Craig
Lovely evening views
Looking around the views were amazing and we sat for quite some time enjoyed the views, before abseiling down the short side. I went first, followed by Craig who was down in no time. Fancy doing it again he asked…I grinned
…any time I said …but checking the time we realized that if we wanted to be back before 22:00 hours we should get a move on.
Craig on the way down
2 Mountaineers
Evening shadows
We walked to the top and took some more photos, before we headed down the scree slope. Dear God I have done a lot of scree , but never had I come across a scree slope like that. As soon as we moved , everything else moved with us, burying feet under layers of rock, if you made the mistake to stop. But better down than up we agreed and once we were back on the track, what was left was the what felt like endless walk back to Glen Brittle.
The walk back looking back
14.5 hours after setting off I got back to my tent. I had walked and climbed 24 hours during 2 days and I was in a lot of pain. We sat together outside the van sharing a bizarre dinner of cheese, gherkins, crisps and bits of sausage, as no one of us could be bothered with cooking and once Craig had left, I crawled into my tent and tried to sleep which was hard, as my body was in so much pain.
Sgurr a'Mhadaidh, Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh, Sgurr na Banachdich8 hours
I woke up during the next morning with the noise of cars driving past the gravel. Annoyed that I could not sleep anymore, I got up and with aching bones hobbled to my car. Sod that I thought I am driving to the shower block.
Once I was showered and purchased one of the great croissants they had in the shop for breakfast, Craig appeared in probably the same amount of pain I was in. We discussed some logistics and the option of just having a day in the pub
, but agreed that we would meet again at lunch time to do the final 3 Munros.
Its incredibly what a body can achieve if you put your mind to it, as by noon I was back in my walking boots and we were on the way towards Sgurr a'Mhadaidh. It was a cracker of a day with blue skies and only a few fluffy clouds and we walk in was rather pleasant. With rather light backpacks due to the fact that we decided we would not need any ropes or gear, we followed the path until we reached Coire a Ghreadaidh where we filled up our water bottles.
On the way to the first Munro
Coire a Ghreadaidh...Lets choose the hardest way up
Craig being Craig refused to do any easy walk up the first Munro and suggested the scramble up towards the south ridge which was a 2-3 scramble. I agreed and we made our way up. It would have been pleasant, but the past two days of only wearing my gloves for about 2 hours, had left my fingers and palms rather tender and I bypassed some parts to save my hands. 'Are we taking the chicken way out ' Craig asked me and I grumbled a response.
Once we reached the top it was an easy walk to the first Munro Sgurr a'Mhadaidh. Neither of us could believe how quick it had been and we lingered for a while to enjoy the sunshine.
View towards Thuilum
On the scramble up
Amazing views
Back on the ridge
Myself on the summit
Ben Nevis in the distance
What a beautiful day it was
Next we walked past An Dorus Gap and the incredible looking Eag Dubh, a cleft in the mountain. Neither of us would not have fancied walking down it and once we passed the Wart …which upon closer inspection fitted its name, we reached Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh the second Munro of the day.
Eag Dubh
The ridge looked so easy from here
Another great sleeping platform
Stopping to check the route in the book, we read about the difficult traverse to the second peak of the Munro. A bit worried if it woudl have been a mistake to leave the rope and gear, we passed the razor sharp ridge, certainly the craziest ridge I have seen and reached the reached the south top without any problem. So much for thinking it would be difficult. Scrambling along we knew that there was supposed to be a bypass around the 3 teeth, but yet again we were on the ridge and before we knew it and climbed two of the 3 teeth, before we spotted by bypass
The final part of the climb was up Sgurr Thormaid. A doddle after the past few days. One more to go said Craig and seeing Sgurr na Banachdich in the distance, I hardly could believe that we nearly made it .
All the way its up
Looking back
and ahead to the final summit
Walking the towards the final of the 11 summits, I felt a mix of emotions. The past 3 days had been one of the most exciting walks I have ever done and I did not wanted them to end...although my poor legs had other ideas. Craig let me go first and by the time I reached the summit I was over the moon.
With a high 5 and a hug we congratulated our self and sat in the warm sunshine. No wind and no midges made the experience incredible for Skye. Looking along the ridge I knew I had to return, this had been amazing and I wanted more time in these incredible mountains.
Completion of the Skye Munros
The part of the ridge we had just walked
The heart of the mountain
The end of the walk
Looking back I don’t understand how I could have ever been nervous, or even scared about doing the Cuillins. They are incredible and for me the best Munros out there. For those of you who have not done them and feel the same fears I have only one advice... throw your heard on top of them and follow, you won’t be disappointed.
Day1
Day 2
Day3