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Almost four years to the day I, along with various other WalkHighlanders took on the Aonach Eagach on a fairly dull, at times claggy day above Glencoe. Despite the conditions, it was a thrilling scramble and my fears beforehand, not to mention stupidity in googling various terrifying photos and videos (never do this) of it would be largely unfounded, save for a couple of "interesting" route-finding errors.
So, fast forward four years and finally a calm, dry forecast along with me finally having enough flexi for the day off and my pal Rob wanting to have a go at the ridge all came together and we duly headed through to Glencoe for an 8:30am-ish start. Early starts on the AE are useful imo, much later on a good day can see people queuing up at the pinnacles.
We started from the usual small layby, and headed up the instantly steep path. It's a good climb though as the path is stepped for a good distance and gains height well, with the angle of ascent ranging from "steep" to "f***ing hell, this is steep". However early views were very promising.
Loch Achtriochtan
The gradient eventually relents on the final approaches to Am Bodach, and despite having a bit of manflu and Rob not feeling great either, we reached the broad summit plateau of this munro top in little over an hour and a quarter. We decided to stop here to fuel up before tackling the ridge. The clag was moving through the glen and for a short while I was questioning the bizarrely optimistic MWIS forecast.
We also got a good view of the Chancellor, briefly raising the possibility of heading down to it. This was swiftly dismissed once we'd seen the path down to it
The ChancellorWe stopped a chatted to a couple of young lads who were doing a recce on the ridge with a view to repeating it in winter conditions.
The two young lads heading off to the ridge
We soon came to the downclimb from Am Bodach, which I well remembered from the first time I did this route. It does look awful from above but is surprisingly manageable. Rob was feeling pretty **** by now so sensibly decided to head back down and we arranged to meet at the far end of the walk. Once down from Am Bodach I did look back and still have the "How the **** did I get down that?!" moment.
Back to Am Bodach
The section from here to the Meall Dearg is pretty easy with no nasty scrambles or large re-ascents. There's a couple of wee gullies that give fine views of the steep plunge into Glencoe though.
Down into Glencoe
I soon reached the first munro summit, Meall Dearg. Fine views had opened out, especially across to the Mamores. Ahead, the ridge had that wonderful visual effect of cloud hanging onto one side of it, looking menacing and thrilling at the same time.
Summit of Meall Dearg
The ridge ahead
The first introduction to the ridge is the wonderful chimney, which is mildly awkward to actually get to the base of, but is brilliant fun to ascent, with excellent holds all the way.
The Chimney
Following this, you then have to deal with a series of exposed scrambles both up and down, but the situation is nothing short of magnificent, with glorious views into Glencoe, across to the Mamores and back towards Rannoch Moor.
Shortly after the Chimney
Looking back towards Meall Dearg
Garbh BheinnI'd remembered most of the route from my last trip (it must have been firmly etched in my mind), however I struggled on a couple of sections, one was a tricky downscramble from which I genuinely could not remember from last time, however I eventually figured it out, I also had to briefly leave the crest shortly afterwards and bypass another scramble to the left due to a combination of very polished rock and placement of my boot sole with was rather worn
I just couldn't reliably put my weight on it so took a brief drop out to the left and re-ascended to the crest 20m further along.
Back on the ridge, the views were clearing nicely.
A narrow section of ridge with Glencoe far below.
I soon came to another section that I just couldn't remember from last time. Eventually though I scrambled up what seemed like a pretty hairy route just to the right of the crest. I suspect I'd have been better on the crest, but wasn't sure I wanted to commit to something I didn't know or would possibly struggle to get out of. This next photo was taken basically hanging onto a rock before scrambling back up to the rest. There's a drop of at least 1500 feet to the left
Precarious photo position
After getting back to the crest, and on surer footing I took another shot looking back. Prob easier without the shaking hands
I took a short breather here to enjoy the views, particularly down into Glencoe.
Glencoe and Loch Achtriochtan
After this there was only one other section I couldn't remember properly, which I eventually figured out was because I'd taken one of the shady bypass paths to the right hand side last time, not the best of ideas. This time I tackled the longish scramble up the face before more tricky downscrambling to the last of the difficulties.
Stob Coire Leith and Sgor nam Fiannaidh
A long way down...
The scrambling proper now over, it was time to tackle the day's last two ascents, a steepish one up to the Munro top of Stob Coire Leith, followed by the much easier one to Sgor nam Fiannaidh. I had a brief chat with the two young lads from earlier before heading up. It is indeed steep in places, but over very quickly. It's also an excellent viewpoint.
Back to the ridge
Summit of Stob Coire Leith
Following a brief descent from this top, it's a nice level-ish broad ridge to the foot of the final ascent to the second munro of the day. Looking back also gives you a fine perspective on the immense ridge you've just scrambled.
One of my favourite views of the day
The ascent to the munro from here is minimal and I soon reached the shelter cairn, which itself gives a great view back across the route.
View from Sgor nam Fiannaidh
I didn't hang about long as I'd phoned Rob and arranged to meet him on the Pap path for a quick climb of the Pap itself. I'd also forgotten how long and tedious the descent from here is. Annoying quartzite boulders litter the path (i fell on my arse over one of them) and progress is slower than I'd have liked. Great view to Ballachulish though.
View to Ballachulish and Ardgour beyond
Another phone call to Rob on the way down and we reached a consensus that neither of us could be arsed with the Pap and finding a shop that sold cold drinks and ice cream was a much better plan. Perhaps it's my imagination but the Pap path has really deteriorated since 2013, and indeed one long stretch of it has basically become a burn. However we eventually got down and along to the car park, before heading into Glencoe village to buy ice creams where were pretty much inhaled
In summary an utterly brilliant day on a route which has pretty much everything. A quick ascent, epic and exposed scrambling, amazing views and a god-awful descent. I'm definitely going to repeat this one a lot.
