Not the Lochaber Traverse. (plan D?) Meagaidh & friends

[mrssanta]

We we had planned for the Lochaber Traverse but delayed for a day to warm up on Geal Charn and hope for better weather. Unfortunately last night's weather forecast had deteriorated and it looked like the good weather would be unlikely to reach us before we got back to Yorkshire. We thought the Grey Corries and Aonachs worth saving for better weather and decided on an overnighter starting at Roughburn and finishing at Aberarder. I think we might now be on Plan D

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Quite a considerable amount of time was taken faffing about, having breakfast, packing up and deciding things and we did not get to the start till nearly 11am. We dropped off one car at Aberarder in the Creag Meagaidh car park and drove to Roughburn finding a spot in a muddy puddle to leave the other car. Polite notices on the gate requested that we take care because of stalking but gave no specific instructions.

the start

The first obstacle to ford the river at 363822. It looked like we might get wet but actually the river was broader here than further up, and not so deep and we managed across fine.

Ford the river and go up between the trees and the river.

We followed the track up the river where it quickly turned into a very boggy ATV track. Once past the forest we aimed pretty much straight up the hill, stopping for our first lunch at about 550m where we met a burn in a sheltered spot. There were some views to be had over towards the Fersit hills and Grey Corries and we thought we had made a good decision as we could see plenty of weather.

Mobility scooter on steroids? A track laying scooter with two gun rests on the handlebars. But we did not see any people.

Easans on the left, stob Ban poking up in the middle, Grey Corries in cloud on the right

Looking over to Loch Treig

weather and sunlight over Loch Treig

There are two cairns on Beinn Teallach, the WH route visits both, but we only went to the one we thought was the summit, which is the more northeasterly one. It was in cloud by then and we were in cloud and/or rain for most of the rest of the walk. The other cairn has a 910m ring contour on the 1:25 000 map which is missing on the 1:50 000.

Rudolph on Beinn Teallach

Looking over the shoulder of Beinn a'Chaorainn to the Window of Creag Meagaidh

From the summit an intermittent path takes you down to the bealach at just above 600m and we came out of the cloud for a while. Up the other side we followed an ATV track for a short while before it started going in the wrong direction, then just went straight up the slope a looong way but gradually easing all the time till we reached the north top of Beinn a'Chaorainn. I left my bag here (remembering to take the GPS and the camera!) for the wet and windy trudge to the summit.

Field Scabious at about 750m which surprised me

the Window of Creag Meagaidh from the shoulder of Beinn a'Chaorainn

Me on Beinn a'Chaorainn

We (all right then, I) had sort of thought that it might be possible to camp at the Bealach a'Bharnish at 800m but when we reached it the wind was whistling through and it looked an inhospitable kind of place. We had to get our skates on to get to the next suitable spot before dark, which was the west side of the Window, over the top of Creag Meagaidh.
We set off straight uphill and soon came upon an ATV track which made the going much easier straight up the slope. It disappeared at the flat area at 1020m which might have been quite tricky to navigate were it not for the line of fence posts which appeared, guiding us in the right direction up the ridge towards Creag Meagaidh.
We reached the summit in good time and then had the fun of navigating in the clag and rain to find the way across the plateau to descend to the Window.

lovvely fence posts

Top of Creag Meagaidh! Can't you tell!

Mad Meg's Cairn

Amazingly as we set up camp the clouds lifted a bit and we had a short clear spell when the rain stopped, but it did not last. We set up our tent with the feet end of the tent both downhill and into the wind which was great!

Camp

Morning came and the clag was down and it was certainly a bit dreich to say the least. Quick brew and breakfast and off we went.

The Window in the morning

It's a short straightforward climb up to Stob Poite Coire Ardair and along the ridge towards Carn Liath but it was in clag and it was fun to practise navigation by pacing and timing.

Look at the fabulous cliffs over there! Stob Poite Coire Ardair

Hello Sheep! you don't bother with a compass!

We picked up water and had a brew at Uinneag Coire a'Chaorainn where there was a sheltered spot, and actually when we reached the final summit the cloud was lifting a little.

happy mugs doing their best

Carn Liath. I think that counts as a cloud-free Munro.

Coming down off Carn Liath was fun - we took a direct route down the steep heathery slope - a bit of bum sliding was involved - reaching the path with complete jelly legs!
We spotted treecreepers in the woods on the way down, but no photos sorry.

Looking down to Aberarder.

Looking up into Coire Ardair from our steep way down

Alien invasion in the woods

Lovely woods

Reaching the car park we planned our next adventure - potentially three days of holiday left - will we make it to Lochaber - ? - find out in the next instalment!!

[gammy leg walker]

One day

[mrssanta]

One day

oh yes. As they say, the hills aren't going anywhere

[Alteknacker]

Glad that you got at least some decent weather on your hol. The mugs were smiling! And you got a bit of nav practice (that's the thought I also console myself with when the clag descends...).

This has been a really useful read for me, because I've never hitherto looked at this area; but it looks from the contours and some of your clag-free pics, that it will be a superb ridge walk in good weather. For some reason I didn't clock the ridge when I was on Beinn a'Chlachair or Geal Charn in August. I've already started looking at possible routes (probably involving a bike to close the round). So thanks for that.

I am quite surprised you managed the river crossings in only boots - it looked quite deep. I always now take a couple of rubble bags with me for this purpose since reading about the technique in (I thought) a Black Panther report a year or two, and I've found it very useful indeed - most recently for a knee-deep crossing the Allt Cam in the Alder Forest.

Awaiting the next installment....

[Alteknacker]

Ref my earlier reply on the subject of river crossing, I then read this...

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=75730

[Mal Grey]

Fair play for managing to enjoy yourselves in the dreich weather!

[spiderwebb]

A fine traverse, and great report

[mrssanta]

Ref my earlier reply on the subject of river crossing, I then read this...

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=75730

that was fun!

Fair play for managing to enjoy yourselves in the dreich weather!

thanks. we don't get to pick and choose the days being several hours drive away from the nearest Munros. so you just have to grin and bear it!!

A fine traverse, and great report

thanks. I think Creag Meagaidh is definitely worth coming back to in good weather, and that was an excellent place to camp.

[malky_c]

Nice last photo

Camping high in the rain does appear to be your standard thing for the Highlands

[mrssanta]

Nice last photo

Camping high in the rain does appear to be your standard thing for the Highlands

Thanks.
Camping high does help avoid midges. I find rain is conducive to sleep, although I prefer it not to start till after I am in bed, and to stop by morning! We have forgotten what good weather is this year - but had some memorable trips nonetheless.

[Roger n Sue Fellows]

Anybody into moths will probably expect some good finds on Creag Meagaidh and co. Warm calm weather is a bonus for moths and for walkers. Some good birds too.

[mrssanta]

Anybody into moths will probably expect some good finds on Creag Meagaidh and co. Warm calm weather is a bonus for moths and for walkers. Some good birds too.

we saw a lot of birds including a treecreeper. I am not good at birds as they move before I get a decent look. I'm better on flowers.