Sgurr a'Mhuillinn – a hill I admire every time I drive past and would play a part in the story later....

I think these are the hills above Kinlochewe

The usual stopping point….

Lovely Loch Maree and Slioch

Saturday 24th February
11.38km
926m ascent
4 hours 45 mins
We parked up in the parking area just by Loch Bad an Sgalag and a certain amount of faffing went on as last minute things were packed into already heavy packs but at last we were off.
Baosbheinn in the distance

The track made for easy walking but given heavy packs we were almost wishing it was a bit colder! Slioch was looking majestic and I could hardly wait for the views once we had gained some more height


As we rounded the corner we could see the glen start to open out and Beinn an Eoin became visible although it looked miles away


I loved how the Abhainn a’ Gharbh Choire was sparkling in the sunshine


This is the grouse stone – where grouse-hunters would leave their catch for the Ghillies to pick up. Obviously Colin isn’t a grouse….


The glen really started to open out and we had a much clearer view of Baosbheinn as well as some very recognisable old friends


Baosbheinn, the wizard's hill; pronounced “Booshven” and I loved how awesome that sounded that I couldn’t stop saying


Colin suggested heading off early to head up Beinn an Eoin towards Coire Loch na Geala but I suggested that crossing at the stepping stones would be a good idea as I didn’t really fancy wet feet at such an early stage….It turned out to be a wise decision; although there was ice on the stones it was easily knocked off and safe passage was made across the burn



The burn safely negotiated we headed across ground that was gloriously frozen – in warmer conditions I could see it being a bit of a bog-fest

Modelling Alison’s winter trousers


Baosbheinn with Colin

Baosbheinn without Colin

I discovered that weird shadows and perspective made tall Colin and short-arse me look the same height – a close friend of mine couldn’t tell us apart


The snow was wonderfully hard to walk on but once the gradient increased we had to stop to put on crampons (Colin thought he could manage with microspikes and had to wait while I fully cramponed up

Easy with the security of crampons



Soon we were on the ridge of Beinn an Eoin and we could see the full ridge of Baosbheinn across Loch na h-Oidhche

We made it a short distance along the ridge before we ran out of snow and we had to stop to lose the crampons again. This involved me accidentally punching a rock causing blood everywhere (slight exaggeration



The Beinn an Eoin ridge – Colin struggling under the weight of his pack


We reached the bealach before the final ascent to Beinn an Eoin – this is where we would descend from in the morning. This was flat enough for a camp spot but I was sure that the map suggested we could camp higher, and I really wanted that view into Coire Mhic Fhearchair

Beinn Dearg, Beinn Alligin and Loch na h-Oidhche – it was so warm that it could be July if it wasn’t for the snow!

A final sting in the tail….

Some “mild scrambling” turned out to be completely non-problematic and as I reached the top I let out a whoop – a perfect camp spot just a few metres before the cairn! By the time poor Colin had caught up I had bagged my camp spot

Now that’s some view from the summit – the wonderful ridge line of Liathach

Colin posing in front of Baosbheinn….

….and again slightly precariously in front of Coire Mhic Fhearchair & Liathach

Slightly less precariously balanced Jaxter pose modelling new hat!

This was the view I had been looking forward to – Coire Mhic Fhearchair and it’s amazing triple buttresses


Beinn Dearg & Beinn Alligin

Beinn Eighe, Liathach, Beinn Dearg, Beinn Alligin & Baosbheinn – that’s some skyline!!!

Slioch with the Fisherfield hills behind

A first round of photos taken, it was time to set up camp before sunset. There was barely a breath of wind and we were able to erect out tents without any problem….until we attempted to get the tent pegs into frozen ground.
“Have you got a hammer?” asked a slightly perplexed Colin….
“I’ve got a rock!” I said, using a perfectly hand-shaped piece of Torridonian sandstone to thwack my tent pegs through snowy ground.

And so it was that our campsite was ready.

I popped my phone on as it was kick-off time for the Calcutta Cup. Signal ensured, I waited for updates from my rugby correspondent as I got the “big lens” out

Coire Mhic Fhearchair

Look at the size of that


Superb Slioch

Debates raged throughout the evening about which particular Fisherfields these were


Gairloch I believe

Am Fasarinen – The Pinnacles

More debates raged here – Colin thought the spiky one for be An Teallach but it looked a bit close.

Beinn Damh

Beinn Alligin

Looking from the summit to our campsite

Some view eh – evening light on the Fisherfield, Slioch and wee Beinn a’ Chearcaill

As the sun began to set we could already feel the temperature dropping and so began the awkward of process of adding all my layers

Michelin man






Encouraging noises had been coming through about the rugby score as I’d been enjoying the views and we sat down to melt some snow to heat up dinner. As Colin hadn’t brought a stove

As the water was beginning to boil, word came through that a £90 bottle of Glenlivet had been opened



There is something wonderful about being on top of a mountain as the evening draws in; exposed to the elements and happy in the knowledge that there’s nowhere you’d rather be. The rugby score was bonus

It was very cold and so we both retreated to our warm cocoons relatively early hoping for a good night’s sleep.

Although it was very cold I was nice and cosy inside my sleeping bag and after reading for a while I drifted off into a blissful sleep. When nature called I had to stand outside enjoying the feeling of being there; the sky was clear, the stars were twinkling and the moon was reflecting off the snow. Just awesome

A few hours later I was awakened by the wind battering my tent….this continued for around 3 hours during which I got up to peg in a few extra guys on my tent!
Sunday 25th February
17.4km
832m ascent
7 hours 50 mins
I awoke ahead of my alarm and poked my head out the tent – the wind had dropped some time before and I had a wonderful view!

“Colin are you alive? Your tent looks mighty funny”


He and Jura had resorted to spooning but they had survived their first summit camp!
I got out of bed and in my excitement didn’t bother putting my boots on – one of the advantages of waterproof socks! However one of the disadvantages is that they don’t have any grip

Liathach

Ruadh-stac Mor & Coire Mhic Fhearchair

Our mystery spiky hill

Slioch & the Fisherfield

It was freezing so it was back to the tent where I cosied up in my sleeping bag to brew up some hot chocolate utilising an ice-axe to loosen some snow…

…and watch the sun rise behind the Sgurr a'Mhuillinn hills that we had seen from the road on the drive in.


Hello Torridon!

Me in my socks


I did a wee bit of running around to catch the light hitting the Torridonian giants as my water slowly heated up…





As the sun rose higher the orange light was reflecting off the icy snow

Me holding up the sun!

Enjoying my hot chocolate

Camp was struck and as we tried to fit all our belongings back into our packs the day was already amazing!



Finally we were on the go, making our way down to the bealach. Reports suggested it was possible to get down the prow but we decided that it would be safer and easier from the bealach with heavy packs and an uncertain amount of very hard snow.

It was steep with every step a potential ankle-breaker thanks to the heather and hidden rocks. I looked to the snow fields leading to a snow-filled gully and suggested donning crampons and walking down that. Colin with his microspikes deemed it too slippy but with my crampons I was able to easily walk pretty much straight down all the way to the track before slipping them off for a short walk along to the Poca Bhuidhe bothy.
Baosbheinn reflections in Loch na h-Oidhche

The bothy was in a stunning location – such a shame that it’s been closed to the public (apparently due to the bothy code not being followed) although we tried to work out how many Neds had managed to get to such a remote bothy to trash it


I ditched some more layers and applied suncream before we headed off on a feint path around the tip of the loch.

It was disappointing, especially given the reason for the bothy being closed, that the old roof which had recently been replaced had been dumped all over the ground near the bothy

We elected to head for the ridge below Ceann Beag before following it up to the minor top. This was much tougher than it looked with tired legs, large packs and the sun beating down on us!
Looking back to what we had come down


It was a steep climb as we picked our way through slabs of Torridonian sandstone and the top of Ceann Beag was hard won. But it was so worth the effort – even Colin agreed despite having suggested traversing around the side

Beinn Dearg with Liathach behind

Sgurr a’Mhuillin

Loch a’ Bhealaich with Northern Skye in the distance

Wonderful Torridonian skyline

Looking ahead to our next target – the SE summit of Baosbheinn – this ascent looked brutal until I broke it down into 5 small sections which made it much more manageable


I occupied the time by trying to come up with a word for the sound of walking boot on Torridonian sandstone – such an amazingly satisfying thunk

Reaching the SE summit with far more ease than expected we wandered out to stand on the wee outcrop before turning our attention to the final climb.

We had a wee breather and while I scoped out our route down, Colin sat on a rock and sucked on some snow – definitely ice lolly weather


As we descended carefully towards the bealach we met our first human for two days! He was surprised to see us and probably thought we were mental

Looking back from the final ascent – Loch a’ Bhealaich and Alligin

And finally we were there – the top was surprisingly flat after all the drama of the hill so far!


Days like these


Liathach

I think this might be Kintail in the distance

SKYE


I think this is Harris and An Clisham

What surely must be An Teallach

Slioch

Loch Torridon and out to the Cuillin

Turn up the sound and listen to the silence – there’s no place I’d rather be

It was such a stunning day that we found some rocks to relax on while we munched on some very welcome scran. We were able to sit there in shirt sleeves as it was so warm! I could hardly believe it was February

Levitation skillz


Colin set up a self timer (this was the second or third attempt as Jura was being a pain in the ass)

Colin & Jura being dramatic

As our descent would be heading into the shade I suggested putting on crampons before we started – this turned out to be wise as we crunched our way a short way along the ridge before finding our way down. And man it looked steep


Big boy pants on, I went first…. It was insanely steep and I made sure to keep three points of contact and digging my crampons firmly into the hard snow



Once down the steepest section I looked back up and could hardly believe what I’d just come down



We looked for Colin’s wee plastic thingamy but could see no sign of it…finders keepers I guess

Looking back to the ridge – Colin confirmed that I had bigger baws than him


Looking down to the tip of Loch na h-Oidhche where we were hoping to cross. I suggested following the snow all the way down as it was so easy to walk on and with the aid of amazing crampons we got to within about 50m of the loch before having to take them off.

Beinn an Eoin, Loch na h-Oidhche and Baosbheinn

Reaching the tip of the loch we couldn’t get across so followed the river downstream looking for a suitable crossing point.


Colin with his longer stride managed to hop easily across whereas I had to use my bin bags (and nearly lost one downstream which Colin managed to rescue

Looking back

Baosbheinn – you can see why it’s known as mini-Alligin!

Safely back across the stepping stones

It was very hot as we dragged our tired bodies and heavy loads along the track. The scenery was well worth the effort and I blame the views for my epic faceplant onto some ice 5 minutes from the car

All that remained was a 4/5 hour drive home…. (hold that thought…

The sun setting as we headed towards Achnashellach

….as we got to Tarvies and found the road closed due to an accident. The Police on the scene informed us that the road would be closed for 4-6 hours and that our options were to go via Ullapool and Lairg or Kyle of Lochalsh and Kintail…. Doh


What a fabulous weekend - Torridon; a love affair that will last a lifetime


