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The Cioch Nose @ Applecross

The Cioch Nose @ Applecross


Postby Benaden887 » Wed Mar 14, 2018 9:43 pm

Corbetts included on this walk: Sgùrr a' Chaorachain

Date walked: 18/09/2009

Time taken: 4 hours

Distance: 5.2 km

Ascent: 600m

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The Cioch Nose, Sgurr a`Chaorachain @ Applecross Friday 18th Sept 2009
We had been here before of course, 5 times in zero visibility, gale force winds or driving rain.
I did Beinn Bhan and this Corbett on compass bearings, this time however, it was clear – strong winds but dry at least. Kenny and I can see the Cuillin ridge from here - tops covered in cloud. The KMC are having a Skye meet this w/e. So we left a day early, had an overnite @ Plockton where a snap recce yesterday had shown the way down, thus a quick drop into Coire a` Charurachain - up the scree, along the ledge to the CN mark on the rock and we were there.
The Nose juts out like a pointing finger into the glen below, its sheer slopes beckoning or threatening depending on your strengths - creating steep rock corries on either side - Our climb starts at its tip.
Gear on, rope up. Starts with a layback, then 3 awkward corners over a 40m pitch. It`s hard- too old perhaps – or wrong footwear - well maybe, but it takes us to a 15m offset chimney. The Cioch Nose corner. Too intent, we do not realise until passed, that this is the magical pitch that Tom Patey and Chris Bonnington commit to legend. “Come on man – it’s incredible ”
Pass the nose and up to sit in the famed belay ledge – 210mtr of clear vertical air below us - still 90mtrs to climb. The sandstone is rough on fingers and clothes and a little piece of us is left on every pitch but worth it. So true! The views, the best I’ve seen. This really is some v.diff, an some day. Magnificent scenery - the rough corries and glowering clouds, while far below, white scudded waves chase each other across Loch Coire nan Arr. The gusting winds carry a hint of rain- time to push on. 5m traverse along the face, then 40m up on rounded slabs. The holds are good, yet still a keen awareness of the space below our feet. The route disappears upward easing slightly. Two more airy pitches of 30m then 20m scramble to reach the top and we are there. The rain does not come and sun smiles on a panorama you could not buy.
But the way does not end here – to reach the radio tower and Bealach na Ba where the car awaits we still have some 300m of rock ahead. So drop to the neck for a path up huge blocks, up a groove at a steeper section to a slab and on. Cross a number of false summits, the climbing is good and we breeze them. One tricky down climb, during a rest, as we espy, posing securely on a ledge a white headed Sea Eagle that eyes us with a curious disdain probably wondering what the hell we are doing up in his domain,
A final push as the radio mast comes into view and tired legs walk down the track towards the car. Elation is building- Yeeha finally the Nose is in the bag. What a tremendous day. We did it at last. A team performance - so cross it from the list never needing to climb it again unless perhaps in the area and the weather is reasonable.......
The weather broke that night on Skye giving a w/e of incessant rain.
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Benaden887
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Re: The Cioch Nose @ Applecross

Postby Mal Grey » Wed Mar 14, 2018 9:55 pm

Fabulous description of a classic route. Never did get to this one, even when I was climbing much harder. The description of the main pitches in the damp conditions we had the one time we went near, brought out the wobbliness in me. We did something far shorter in the pass instead.

I reckon the sea eagle was merely pondering how many meals you'd make for him if you fell off. We once wandered up the back of the corrie opposite and, as we took a breather on the steepest part, a huge golden eagle flew in to check us out, flying parallel to us just 30 feet out, looking straight into our eyes. Unforgettable when you see these amazing creatures close up in their natural habitat.
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Re: The Cioch Nose @ Applecross

Postby gaffr » Thu Mar 15, 2018 9:54 am

Yes, a very classical route....one of the VD's, and there are many of them on the off-shore island, to take delight from.
One of the very active explorers at the time, in the 60's, had these very fine classics listed as Delectable Diffs, Vertiginous VD.s and Stupendous Severes.
I first came across the description of this route when first done...it was written up in the book at the Ling Hut in Glen Torridon.
I did not get to the route until the early seventies and again in the 90's. Having first reached the Nose from the bend in the road coming up from Kishorn and then had the descent into the Coire to get back to the transport. On the second occasion, still using the same approach....never learn, we struck it lucky with a meeting with another pair of folks that had their car parked up on the Bealach road and offered us a lift back down to the road bend. :)
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Re: The Cioch Nose @ Applecross

Postby Benaden887 » Thu Mar 15, 2018 10:59 am

Mal Grey wrote:Fabulous description of a classic route. Never did get to this one, even when I was climbing much harder. The description of the main pitches in the damp conditions we had the one time we went near, brought out the wobbliness in me. We did something far shorter in the pass instead.

I reckon the sea eagle was merely pondering how many meals you'd make for him if you fell off. We once wandered up the back of the corrie opposite and, as we took a breather on the steepest part, a huge golden eagle flew in to check us out, flying parallel to us just 30 feet out, looking straight into our eyes. Unforgettable when you see these amazing creatures close up in their natural habitat.


We just hit it lucky that w/e before the weather closed in, just a matter of belief.
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Re: The Cioch Nose @ Applecross

Postby Benaden887 » Thu Mar 15, 2018 11:03 am

gaffr wrote:Yes, a very classical route....one of the VD's, and there are many of them on the off-shore island, to take delight from.
One of the very active explorers at the time, in the 60's, had these very fine classics listed as Delectable Diffs, Vertiginous VD.s and Stupendous Severes.
I first came across the description of this route when first done...it was written up in the book at the Ling Hut in Glen Torridon.
I did not get to the route until the early seventies and again in the 90's. Having first reached the Nose from the bend in the road coming up from Kishorn and then had the descent into the Coire to get back to the transport. On the second occasion, still using the same approach....never learn, we struck it lucky with a meeting with another pair of folks that had their car parked up on the Bealach road and offered us a lift back down to the road bend. :)


Lucky you. def a route to do again.
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Re: The Cioch Nose @ Applecross

Postby dav2930 » Sun Mar 18, 2018 11:43 am

Nice description of a classic route; sounds like you had a great day. I notice it's been upgraded to Severe in recent guides (a couple of pitches given 4a tech grade). It obviously never was a Diff as Tom Patey famously claimed! A friend and myself are hoping to do this one sometime in the coming summer. :)
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Re: The Cioch Nose @ Applecross

Postby Scottk » Sun Mar 18, 2018 10:39 pm

Great climb. Had a fantastic day out last year in glorious weather. Got sunburnt! Definitely not a severe though unless it's wet. Great exposure and a shame a lot of these classic routes aren't climbed much now. Too much effort to walk in I suppose but for me it is part of the adventure.
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Re: The Cioch Nose @ Applecross

Postby Alteknacker » Thu Mar 22, 2018 10:18 pm

Brilliant stuff. I keep looking at this one and thinking I should give it a go - the environment is just so superb. But it looks like it may be a bit beyond V Diff (my solo limit)...???

Where are the pics...??????? :D
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Re: The Cioch Nose @ Applecross

Postby prog99 » Fri Mar 23, 2018 7:33 am

Here are ours from 6 years ago - http://www.prog99.com/Climbing%20in%20Scotland/2012/Cioch%20Nose%20-%20June%202012/index.html

I thought it just sneaked into severe but really who cares when its in such a magnificent area.
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Re: The Cioch Nose @ Applecross

Postby Benaden887 » Fri Mar 23, 2018 10:58 pm

dav2930 wrote:Nice description of a classic route; sounds like you had a great day. I notice it's been upgraded to Severe in recent guides (a couple of pitches given 4a tech grade). It obviously never was a Diff as Tom Patey famously claimed! A friend and myself are hoping to do this one sometime in the coming summer. :)


Like the Creag Dhu he down graded everything he did.
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Re: The Cioch Nose @ Applecross

Postby Alteknacker » Sun Mar 25, 2018 11:21 pm

prog99 wrote:Here are ours from 6 years ago - http://www.prog99.com/Climbing%20in%20Scotland/2012/Cioch%20Nose%20-%20June%202012/index.html

I thought it just sneaked into severe but really who cares when its in such a magnificent area.


Heck, that looks seriously tasty! Fabulous pics :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Re: The Cioch Nose @ Applecross

Postby Benaden887 » Fri Mar 30, 2018 5:00 pm

prog99 wrote:Here are ours from 6 years ago - http://www.prog99.com/Climbing%20in%20Scotland/2012/Cioch%20Nose%20-%20June%202012/index.html

I thought it just sneaked into severe but really who cares when its in such a magnificent area.


Awesome photos- really brings it home, remember the standing block - thought we could bridge our way up it. Common sense won out
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