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Arresting Ardnamurchan - The Picturesque Peninsula!

Arresting Ardnamurchan - The Picturesque Peninsula!


Postby dooterbang » Tue Jun 19, 2018 1:02 pm

Route description: Castle Tioram and the Silver Walk circuit

Sub 2000' hills included on this walk: Ben Hiant

Date walked: 26/05/2018

Time taken: 24 hours

Distance: 36 km

Ascent: 1000m

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It was birthday time again, which meant an extended adventure :) I usually head for Assynt, however this year a booking was made for a hiking trip abroad to Gran Canaria with Fiona. We had already spent a wonderful few days in Assynt back in April, so we took a punt on the Scottish weather being horrible...

My heart sank when checking weather forecasts for Scotland and the impending forecasted heatwave, which was warmer than Gran Canaria :shock: All was not lost, we could do both with some precision planning :wink: We would fly out Tuesday morning the 29th May, this left Saturday 26th - Monday 28th May as I finished work Friday evening the 25th May :D

I was knackered after 3 long days working but the lure of some unfinished business in Ardnamurchan had me buzzing like a duracell bunny :lol: Fiona came up late Friday evening and we sorted all our gear for both trips, surprisingly more gear required for 3 day up North than 7 days abroad :crazy: :lol: We left early Saturday morning and caught the 08.30hrs Ferry from Corran.

Day 1 - Saturday 26th May
We would drive up the high winding road to Loch Sheil car park in Polloch for a 4.5k circular walk. The drive over is described as treacherous but we found it a complete joy, kept thinking how fantatsic a cycle it would be. At 9am we parked up and started our first walk, the sun was blazing 8)

After a couple of kilometers the view opens up
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Felt very remote, however we did chat with one man and his dog who had pulled up for the evening in his VW Camper.

Bench Viewpoint
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We spent some time down at the shoreline before returning to the car park, and chatting to one of the local residents. She used to run a gift shop from one of the old log cabins but it had long shut due to lack of visitors now.

Back in the car we haeaded back up and over the winding road to pick up the main road from Strontian and headed West, Ard Airigh and the Garbh Eilean hide our next destination. No big hills planned for this mini tour, just lots of short walks :)

This walk visits an excellent wildlife hide on the shores of Loch Sunart. This is a great place to watch for otters, whilst seals and herons are likely to be seen on most visits. A wondeful wooden walkway leads to the viweing platform.

Platform and viewpoint behind
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We didn't see any wildlife so grabbed a photo opportunity :)
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From the hide we ventured through the woodland and down to the shore of Loch Sunart

Viewpoint/Hide far right
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Looking South East
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Walk over, and feeling hungry now, we headed for the brilliant bakery in Acharachle :) After filling our faces we headed for Castle Tioram in the hope of making it across the water to explore it. Last year the tide was high and I didn't get across.

Arriving at the car park our luck was in, low tide meant we could get across :D

We would incorporate exploring the castle with a circular 6k walk named the silver circuit. This is a classic short hillwalk; the Silver Walk being one of the special paths of the Highlands, a fascinating if very rough route through stunningly beautiful scenery. The return walk over the hill visits some attractive lochans and has a fabulous descent with views to the Isles.

The way across
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Inside the castle ruins
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The Castle, looking magnificent :)
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Fiona and I, thwarting that magnificent view :lol:
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Leaving the castle behind...
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And starting our circular walk :)
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The first part of the walk is pretty spectacular as it hugs the lochside from a high rocky position, affording great views across Kinlochmoidart.
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After 2k we headed South over the hill for another 2k, stopping at some ruins. The ruins are near the top of the hill, by this time our heart rates were pumping hard :D
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Nice lochan in the distance whilst descending, before heading West.
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Now heading West a damned Lochan is reached
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Head over this and follow a pipeline down into the ravine, views to the isles ahead of you.

Views to the Isles
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At the bottom of the ravine you hit the road from here its a short walk North to Castle Tioram car park. This was a fantastic diverse walk that literally took your breath away, plus we never seen anyone on route 8) Back in the car it was now time to find a camp spot for the evening, I was hoping to bag the one I used in Glenuig last year.

Unfortunately that spot was taken but we found a better one :) This was a piece of grass perched on top of some rocks on the shoreline, mostly hidden by higher rocks from the road. To the left of our pitch was an old static caravan, inhabited by an old fella who appeared to have dropped out of society. He had some starnge ideas about the world but was generally nice.

Our little spot :D Thankfully that wasn't a Japanese whaling vessel middle left or I was in deep trouble :shock: :lol:
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View to the Isles
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Unfortuantely my gas canister was broken so we had to improvise to get some hot water for our noodles. I suggested heating water over a fire, Fiona got cracking on with starting one - top girl 8) The old fella was kind enough to provide some wood and newspapers. We enjoyed our noodles immensely :)

Fiona Firestarter :crazy: :lol:
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After a wash/swim in the sea we sat down and enjoyed a beer whilst waiting on the sun setting.
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It was a lovely bright orange sunset, a spectacular finish to our first days adventure...only 10 more to go :D
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Day 2 - 27th May
We enjoyed a great nights sleep, and in the morning we swam in the sea before packing up our gear and firstly heading back South to Salen then West to Ardnamurchan Point. But first we would take in sub 2000 hill Ben Haint, I had summit camped here last year :)

It was super windy and slightly dull, we didn't hang around...up and down in just over an hour.

Stag do :lol:
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Views from the summit
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And from the road whilst heading to Ardnamurchan Lighthouse
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Whilst back at the car park, before heading to Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, my friend Jill and her sister passed on their bikes.They where doing a mini tour from Oban>Mull>Glencoe....I should've brought my bike :roll:

Ardnamurchan Lighthouse is 36 metres high, and was built in 1849 by Alan Stevenson of the famous Stevenson family of lighthouse builders. It is the most Westerly point on the mainland. It's a great spot to spend a couple of hours, do some light scrambling and take in the views to the Isles.

The Lighthouse
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On route to the lighthouse we had stopped at a shed which sold bread and the likes, you just left the cash in a box. At the lighthouse staff at the cafe kindly sold us a big block of cheese, sarnies now sorted :D

After lunch we headed for Portuirk to do a circular route which would take in Sanna Bay. Fiona was looking forward to this as her parents had been here over 40 years ago. Fiona had a photo in which her mother, now sadly departed, was in which she would try and re-create. I think we managed it, as we did for another on route home.

Clear waters
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It was extremely windy when reaching the sandy beaches of Sanna Bay, we had sand going in our eyes, our trail runners, clothes...you name it! But we still managed a swim in the cold turquoise waters 8)

Pre Swim
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Amazing colours of the sea
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Sanny bay
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Walking back to Portuirk we wallked along the village road looking for a camp spot for the evening, we identified one possibility.

Back at the car we drove back to Kilchoan Hotel and had some yummy food, afterwards using the public showers for a wash...getting rid of all that sand!

We then drove back to Portuirk car park as I'd spotted another potential camp spot in a farmers field perched high up on ahill with great views. This turned out ideal as there was a nice wind that kept any possibility of midgies at bay.

Our camp spot 8)
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Waiting on the sun setting
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Here it comes...
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Some experimental images :lol:
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Finally setting, and almost gone.
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After witnessing this spectacular event we sat outside the tent and enjoyed a beer. In a couple of hours I would turn 47 years young :D A fantastic way to spend my birthday, great company & great views 8)

Day 3 - 28th May
We woke early to find the farmer in his field, he was very pleasant and was fine that we stayed the evening. We left no footprint of our stay :)

Early morning view
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We headed back down to Kilchoan and this time used the community hall showers. We then drove back to Strontian and sunbathed for 2 hours whilst enjoying some ice lollies. Finally before catching the Corran Ferry we found a little secluded lochan,out of view near Torr an Fuich, and enjoyed a last swim and sunbathe :) 8)

Ardnamurchan is truly astounding, a very richly diverse Peninsula that offers plenty for all. We sure made the most of our mini adventure, setting us up nicely for 7 days in our mountain retreat in Gran Canaria. We arrived back in Glasgow late Monday evening, we flew out Tuesday morning. Could Ardnamurchan be surpassed... :wink:

Thanks to Fiona firstly for starting that fire, and secondly for being great company - top girl :) 8)

Link to Gran canaria Report - https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=81850
Last edited by dooterbang on Wed Jun 20, 2018 3:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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dooterbang
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Location: Isle of Skye from Feb 2019 (Originally Glasgow)

Re: Arresting Ardnamurchan - The Picturesque Peninsula!

Postby dogplodder » Tue Jun 19, 2018 5:20 pm

Those west coast sunsets and turquoise waters are sublime - and beautifully captured. We're off camping to Camusdarach next week so here's hoping it's half as good weather as you got!! :mrgreen:
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dogplodder
 
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Re: Arresting Ardnamurchan - The Picturesque Peninsula!

Postby mountain thyme » Tue Jun 19, 2018 7:52 pm

Nice wee report. Im looking forward to getting back over there. I fancy sanna bay

I never knew you normally go to Assynt for your birthday :D
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mountain thyme
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Re: Arresting Ardnamurchan - The Picturesque Peninsula!

Postby pollyh33 » Tue Jun 19, 2018 9:12 pm

Absolutely wonderful Paul, really enjoyed that.

Lovely to see Fiona again- she's a top girl indeed. :D
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pollyh33
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Re: Arresting Ardnamurchan - The Picturesque Peninsula!

Postby Collaciotach » Fri Jun 22, 2018 9:23 pm

Polloch ... great wee spot and just over the hill from me and part of my work beat Glen Hurich :) .. Don't tell to many folk about this area eh? ...theres a good lad ;)


btw that gift shop wifie is Marilyn ;)

And a happy birthday a' bhalaich .
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Collaciotach
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