The direct route to Waterstein Head

[dbogosian]

There is a route for Waterstein Head on WH, but it is a long one with a very remote starting point. I opted to do get there in a much more obvious and straightforward fashion. This is a short little route but with some good moderate slopes, and keeps you on the edge of a most dramatic cliff with spectacular views towards Neist Point and beyond. Being on the edge of a 300 meter cliff for the latter half can be either exhilarating or terrifying. On this fair-weather evening, it was somewhere in between, the strong winds being the only reason for anything other than exhilaration.

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As you are approaching Neist Point by car, you suddenly go over a small ridge and a great view opens up. There's a car park there, quite a sizeable one too. From there, you see a mighty hill on your left and you think, aha! This is Waterstein Head!

The hill before Waterstein Head, Loch Mor on the right

But you'd be wrong, it is only a minor and nameless hilltop, beyond which lies the true objective. There is a beautiful little loch on your right (Loch Mor), and the entire landscape is very peaceful. There is a clear path to follow at first, and you'll see a fence about 200 m ahead which will make you wonder, how will I cross it? But fortunately there is a gate in the fence allowing easy crossing. Pretty soon, you are starting to see Neist Point and the lighthouse.

Glimpses of the Point

Eventually, the true head of Waterstein is visible ahead, and it's quite impressive. There is no path, so you just stay as close to the edge of the cliff as seems comfortable.

This is Waterstein!

Neist point peninsula

The higher you get, the more wonderful the view of the peninsula becomes. It's like a long bony finger sticking into the sea, with a very large knuckle rising way up high. There's just no way to describe this superb view.

Neist Point

The last portion of the route is the most interesting. There is a sheep fence along your left which leaves a comfortable portion of the clifftop for walkers. At its narrowest, perhaps this becomes as small as 4 ft, but it's usually 6-8. The cliff edge is not as abrupt as you would think, either, so it's not a terrifying walk at all. But being up at that height with that sheer drop below, and being unable to go inland due to the fence, does get a little uncomfortable at times.

You can tell you've reached the summit when you reach the trig point. From there, the view of Neist Point is simply surreal. The views in the other directions as well offer excellent rewards on a day like this one.

Trig point at the Waterstein summit; beyond, Rubha Ban to the north, and far away behind the waters of the Minch, the Outer Hebrides.

Neist point

Dramatic view of Neist Point

Looking south to Ramasaig Cliff and Hoe Rape

Ramasaig Cliff

I headed back exactly the way I came; there was no alternative. I didn't quite appreciate the impact of where I had been, till I got to Neist Point and had a look at Watestein. All I could think was, "Did I really stand up there, at the top of that 300 m sheer drop?" It's then that you can gauge the magnitude of your accomplishment.

Waterstein Head, from Neist Point parking. I stood up there!