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Did you hear about the explosion at the cheese factory?
by Jaxter » Fri Aug 03, 2018 7:56 pm
Route description: Rum Cuillin traverse
Grahams included on this walk: Trallval
Sub 2000' hills included on this walk: An Sgurr (Eigg)
Date walked: 28/07/2018
Time taken: 23 hours
Distance: 67.82 km
Ascent: 3621m22 people think this report is great. Register or Login free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
“Can’t….well, maybe if the weather is good…..actually, yes because the alternative is chores”
And so it was that Malcy gave in and prepared himself for another weekend of putting up with me. The weather was looking a little iffy (bloody awful ) but we figured we could always hang out in the bothies and watch the rain
The drive to Mallaig was decidedly interesting with thunder, lightning, a lot of rain and my car singing. It was so wet approaching Mallaig that we couldn’t face putting the tent up so we ate a lot of food, played a game of Top Bothy and slept in my car which wasn’t the most comfortable
However, Saturday morning dawned and despite the crap nights sleep and discomfort we made our way to the ferry terminal in high spirits (possibly something to do with the fact we were off to Rum – wahey )
So far our islands looked clear….
In fact, even Skye was clear
And after a cup of tea and Calmac fry up we were both feeling a bit more alive We had a wee bit of a map session and a weather forecast check and we had a collective brainwave – follow the weather and split the ridge
Arriving into Rum
We dragged ourselves and our ridiculous amounts of stuff off the ferry and we were on Rum! What followed was me trying to bat away midges while Malcy unpacked and repacked his bags (several times )
Finally we were ready – we picked up the path towards Dibidil and we were on our way Almost immediately we were heading uphill and we were both regretting carrying so much stuff
Looking back towards the ferry terminal with Skye poking out behind
As we continued along the path parts of the ridge came into view. We both got fairly excited about this
Despite the heavy loads we were carrying it was impossible not to be utterly thrilled to be where we were – looking back to the mainland:
It was tiring work but I managed to keep us entertained with my witty banter and amazing cheese jokes (the explosion at the cheese factory? De-brie everywhere )
Malcy explores a new career in advertising highland water
Looking back to Skye
Malcy got his camera out every time I crossed a river
A glimpse of Askival
Eigg makes an appearance
Malcy modelling our gear transportation plan – Bag-on-a-bag
The ridge again
“It’s just around the next corner” was uttered several times before we met a man coming the other way who informed us it really was around the next but one corner He was also wearing wellies which seemed a wise plan given the condition of the path
Malcy admiring Sgurr nan Gillean
Dibidil bothy comes into view – what a perfect spot!
We settled into the bothy, had a wee dip in the river and tried to have a wee nap while the weather did its worst. We were joined by a group passing through and then a couple of guys who had come over part of the ridge. They were soaked
Soon enough, Eigg was returned to view and we prepared ourselves for the off….
Leaving the bothy just before 5.30 we rejoined the path. Conditions were looking better already
We followed the path up onto the ridge before we went off-piste and headed uphill across deep grass. It was steep in places but we found a big rock for a breather
Looking to Askival
As we climbed higher the views only got better Tiny wee Muck
Looking ahead to staggy mcstagface
The steep ascent meant that we needed more cheese jokes – What do you call cheese that isn’t yours? Na-cho cheese
More height gained meant we could see the awesome light shining on the sea
And then we were on the ridge We were both pretty much lost for words (a surprise for us both )
Ainshaval and Askival
It was a stunning evening and we were both so ecstatic that we agreed that even if the weather came in it wouldn’t matter now we’d had that view
Eigg with a wee rainbow
We followed the ridge – looking back to Sgurr nan Gillean
Malcy walking around Nameless Corrie
The ridge narrowed and the cloud came in, making it very atmospheric
Unfortunately the cloud heralded some rain and we had to stop to add waterproofs. Despite having said that we would be happy with that first view of the ridge, we had decided we wanted a clear summit So we started walking very slowly towards Ainshaval hoping it might blow through
Sadly it never properly cleared
Askival peeking out from the cloud
A wee Eiggy rainbow
Light breaking through the cloud to the west
We hung around a while but the weather didn’t seem to be blowing through so we decided to carry on. The next section was dropping down Grey Corrie towards the bealach before Trallval.
There were some really interesting sections on this descent as the rocks were damp and slippery Fortunately for both of us we were too busy trying to hang on to get cameras out
Look at the size of those rocks
Malcy contemplates doing something daft
Looking down Glen Dibidil
Ahead to Trallval – looking pretty vertical from here
“I’m gonna stand on that outcrop”
Down at the bealach, we scoped out the route and set off – this was a case of it not being as bad as it looked fortunately and there was actually a path most of the way up.
Looking back down….
Looking back to the descent down Ainshval
We made it onto the Trallval ridge and it was pretty windy but clear!
Back to Ainshval
Some mild scrambling (made a little more interesting by damp grass and lack of grip on my boots ) and we were at the summit.
Malcy recreates his previous time here….
I was more daring
Malcy enjoying manly pursuits
Me trying to hold on
We dropped down the ridge; a few awkward scrambles then we were back onto easy walking.
More jokes kept us occupied – what sort of cheese do you use to hide a horse? Mask-a-pony
Ainshval and grey corrie
The showers were long past and it was a beautiful evening as we walked down a very damp Glen Dibidil
Back at Dibidil it was time for a fire and some rum on Rum
Sunday 29th July
It was a wild night at Dibidil; the winds reached around 85mph (and that’s without taking Malcy’s ass into account ) and a weather check suggested a lazy start would get us the best weather
As the winds were set to drop throughout the day we thought it a better idea to do the flat walk first before heading up on the ridge later on.
Looking back to Dibidil as we headed off at midday
Gaining height we saw Skye
We left the path and headed for Loch Coire nan Grunnd
Our initial plan had been to make for the bealach between Hallival and Askival but had another change of plan when we decided that it looked nicer climbing up the other side and doing a full traverse.
As we reached the loch I got closer for a better shot…
….and then called Malcy’s bluff by suggesting he climb the big rock
Malcy on Malc Rock
Eventually we were on the move again and hopping over some really weird looking moon rocks
Heading up the ridge we could see back to our wee paradise and Eigg in the background
We were planning to head across to the usual ascent up Hallival but looking up we thought we could try a new route. ‘Hallival Direct’ was on
After a wee bit of scrambling around on damp rocks we realised that it was grassy and flat the other side and we were sorted
Looking back down
Kinloch and Skye
Jaxter on Hallival
Our island paradise
Look happy Malcy
Askival and Ainshval
We had a wee munch on some food (Malcy was stopped and therefore needed to eat ) and then we headed off down the ridge, actually going the wrong way initially (shh don’t tell anyone )
Looking back to Hallival
Contemplating the pinnacles
And ahead to Askival – looking pretty impressive
We were in need of e-dam good joke, so I pulled out my repertoire of cheese jokes again
Fortunately the path led easily to the left of the pinnacles and there were no issues!
The path was fairly clear most of the way, although during one moment of indecision Malcy, usually so easy-going and indecisive took control and grabbed proceedings by the balls
We jumped onto the ridge above the pinnacles and it was worth it for the view
Malcy on a pinnacle
Me on the summit
We sat and enjoyed the sunshine and beautiful surroundings – so happy to be there
Ainshval and Trallval
Eventually it was time to get going – initially following the path…
...before losing it again and heading downhill off-piste
On this occasion we stuck to the left of the burn which turned out to be slightly drier! Back at the bothy we had more company but managed to jump in the rock pools and have a lovely evening (even though our fire lighting skills weren’t up to much )
Monday 30th July
The next morning we had a relaxed start and left the bothy before heading off with our super heavy packs again
It was a stunning morning – our view of Eigg was even more awesome because that’s where we were headed next
As we climbed up the path it was hard work so we could stop for plenty of photo stops
We were caught up by our pals from the bothy as well as a few rain showers. We were pretty glad to see the ferry terminal as we headed down the final descent into Kinloch
We headed along the track towards the Community Centre, passing by the castle…
….before arriving at the Community Centre. We are not good at decisions so it seemed easier to have all three cakes
A few games of pool and some amazing lunch later, we grabbed a shower on the way to the ferry terminal and managed to dodge the showers!
The ferry on its way…
On the ferry we left our boots in the sun and went and stood out on the deck….both Rum and Eigg looked absolutely amazing and the weather was saying YES to our next mad plan
Ahead to Ardnamurchan
Eigg in my face
Sgorr an Fharaidh
We were on Eigg
Eggs on Eigg
Anyone else noticed how the word “egg” sounds really funny? Nah…just me then Didn’t stop me saying “Eigg” at random intervals
We dumped most of our things at the pub and headed off for a wander to Laig Bay to see the singing sands
Around 5km down the road (the one road, despite having got the wrong one initially ) Rum came into view and it was stunning
Less dramatic Malcy
An Sgurr looking inviting
Back at the pub we shuffled our stuff around again, filled up our water and headed off for our camp spot
An Sgurr direct?
I think it was somewhere around here I asked Malcy how to keep an idiot in suspense….I said I’d tell him later
As we climbed higher Rum came back into view…it was shaping up to be an incredible evening
Malcy contemplates life
Me trying to work out how to keep an idiot in suspense
We made it to the summit and selected our camp spot before jumping around like idiots with big smiles on our faces
We got the tents pitched before heading back to the summit for photos
It was quite a tricky trig point to get on top of but I managed it
Malcy is taller and had fewer problems
We got dinner on and sat down to enjoy a stunning evening from an amazing viewpoint
Malcy walking off his dinner
If anything, things got better
With the sun gone, the temperature dropped and we brought out the sleeping bags and sat out on the rocks enjoying a perfect evening
The moon made an appearance
And I busted my phone screen getting this shot
It was quite windy overnight so we decided to get up early to get the tents down before it got ridiculous….however, when the alarms went off for sunrise neither of us was keen to get up One more hour
And one more hour after that…
It was a little overcast so we did get the tents down about 7 and headed down – no point staying up there for the sake of it
What sort of cheese do you use to hide a pony? Mask-a-horse….oh…hang on, that’s not right…. Clearly I wasn’t totally awake yet
Back at the pub we had a shower, cup of tea and an Eigg roll…the weather got progressively worse; we didn’t really care as we had been ridiculously jammy with the weather all weekend
Obviously I had to get one of these
It was a choppy crossing back to the mainland, but the cups of tea survived and although I came close, I never actually fell over
What a weekend eh….
by malky_c » Fri Aug 03, 2018 8:17 pm
Great write-up, but my ears are still ringing
by Sgurr » Fri Aug 03, 2018 8:38 pm
BTW, you'd better patent your summit pose asap, looks as if someone else is getting in on the act
Scroll down to number five.
by LeithySuburbs » Fri Aug 03, 2018 9:13 pm
by Graeme D » Sat Aug 04, 2018 11:43 am
What's the best kind of cheese for getting a bear out of a tree?
by past my sell by date » Sat Aug 04, 2018 9:03 pm
by tomyboy73 » Sun Aug 05, 2018 9:56 am
by Collaciotach » Sun Aug 05, 2018 12:06 pm
by Huff_n_Puff » Sun Aug 05, 2018 7:07 pm
by Mal Grey » Sun Aug 05, 2018 8:48 pm
Photos are stunning, what a place Rum looks to be. To my shame, I've not got there yet.
by weaselmaster » Sun Aug 05, 2018 11:20 pm
by apollo0815 » Mon Aug 06, 2018 1:24 pm
Now I have definitely set Rum and Eigg on my todo-list
by Sunset tripper » Wed Aug 08, 2018 4:54 pm
It was a really rough crossing with several nervous passengers and watching the locals having to anticipate the waves to drive off was entertaining
Great Islands to visit - It's been too long
PS What is Caberfeidhs favourite cheese?
- Posts: 2090
- Joined: Nov 3, 2013
- Location: Inverness
by David-Main » Wed Aug 08, 2018 5:44 pm
by Alteknacker » Sun Aug 12, 2018 3:53 pm
Both islands looking wonderful, but especially the Rum Cuillin - they're on the list....