free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
Sometimes in life you get a memory, a happy one. A recent occurrence sent me looking for my walk report on that same memory, but I had never written one, a memory of nearly 4 years back. I’m unsure why I never wrote a report on this trip before, but having been recently reminded of it, bringing a huge smile to my face, it seemed a worthy trip to report, not least as it was somewhat of an epic.
It was decided to tackle Beinn Liath Mhor from Achnesllach, then descending its tricky slabs at its NW end to the head of Coire Lair and then picking up the path that heads down to the bothy at Coulags for an overnight stop, walking out the next day. As a result overnight gear would be needed, so packs were somewhat heavier for the stop over.
Now not ones for early starts, we set off, and my first photo walking in through the woods above Achneshallach is timed at 1148hrs, jeez !!! But its December
The ladies set of at brisk pace.
With the huge bulk of the Fuar Tholl and Sgorr Ruadh to our left as we ascended.
After the initial ascent beyond the woods, the path levels out as we head towards the base of Beinn Liath Mhor.
Until the full scale of Beinn Liath Mhor comes into view, looking stunning in its winter clothes, our route tackling the ‘path’ that leads up on to the right hand flank, just out of view in this pic.
Not apparent from the earlier photos, the Marine and two other 4 legged companions, Bob and Travis were out in front, as the ladies brought up the rear (could have worded that better
).
Now the Marine is always up for a more interesting route, up any mountain and he hatched a plan to ascend by the snow field just to the left of the rocky buttress on the right in photo, which would bring him out on the summit ridge between Beinn Liath Mhor’s two subsidiary tops, East of its main summit. Myself, Hazel and Debbie with Bob and Travis would ascend by the usual path up the Eastern flank. That was the plan ! We would all meet up at the top of the snow field between the two tops.
Now it’s a fairly unrelenting ascent at the best of times, the snow covering making for hard work up the heathery slopes. Several breaks were taken, coffee, fags etc. Not to mention that it was now just before 2pm.
Come on ladies, still a way to go.
More breaks, but we're getting there.
Until finally we break out from the steep ascent, into the pristine snow, phew !
The views opened up
But we are still going up, albeit at a gentler slope now.
Until finally as we approach the first top at 876m the whole of Beinn Liath Mhor’s ridge lies before us, except that its now coming up on 1500hrs.
The first top.
After dropping off the first top, we were expecting to see the Marine waiting patiently for us, his higher level of fitness and not to mention the reduced mileage, in terms of age, would surely see him already here at the pre-arranged re-grouping, but no
A quick peak over the top of the slope he was to ascend but nothing. With no sign, a degree of worry obviously set in, where was he, had something happened ?? Phones were of no use, and time was getting on, we still had to cross the ridge, descend and get over to the next glen to drop down to Coulags, we had no choice, an agonising one, but it had to be, we pressed on.
As we traversed the ridge we looked down to our left, Loch Coire lair below, looking for some sign.
We reached the summit, but still no sign.
On descent a brief stop for a photo, a lovely one at that, all smiles Debbie and Hazel beaming, despite the anguish, the anguish to return shortly when faced with the descent
. Bob resting and Travis, oblivious to what is yet to come, sorry Travis.
We didn’t hang about as we still had a tricky descent, one to be avoided in the dark, as we dropped off the summit.
With the last of the sun we made our way to the descent point, the slabs
.
That was the last photo. We found the descent route, a tricky one even without the winter snow. The first part of the descent was a snow gully, steep in itself, but beneath it the slope continues, a fall here would not end well
With the worry over the Marine, it was clear from the voices that both Debbie and Hazel were worried over the descent, the tone had changed, especially when they saw it
. At this point I hadn't coined one of my now frequent phrases, aimed more to the youthful amongst us, here we were equals. well ok, I'm a wee bit older (except in the head
)......'This is a serious mountain environment and there is no place for such tomfoolery in the hills'...it would have been wasted on them and impossible to retain a straight stern face
but that's why its still fun, especially if you feel at home in the hills, its kind of my church I guess
.
I descended the first part to try and find a suitable safe stance as they followed down, along with Bob and Travis.
Once I had descended I opted to put on crampons to aid the grip on the small pocket of flattish ground that I had made my spot.
Now its often the case in times like these that a single comment on the day can bring back memories, that whilst pretty serious as was the situation at the time, now reduce you to laugher when the moment is relived. Whilst securing my own position Bob had run up and down this initial gully several times, as Debbie and Hazel looked on. Hazel then says ‘I’ll slide down and you can catch me’ lol. Looking back it made sense, but with some certainty would have carried us both down the slope at some speed, and we would now be together eternally… in the afterlife lol. She managed on her own phew, although I was ready to catch her (see the Post on what would you do if a friend or pet was injured in the hills for my answer
)
Now it was the turn of Travis, a cuddly lovable Alsation, that has some baggage in these situations, given he broke a leg as a pup, and confidence thus greatly reduced, he was looking over the lip, not exactly happy. I left Hazel at my stance and climbed back up to try and encourage Travis down the slope. Now bearing in mind I’m below him, holding his collar with my face within striking distance of the sharp end, of a very nervous dog, the size and appearance of a wolf. This could end in tears. Another plan was needed as Travis was having none of it and I was not about to pull any harder…. I could see the news from Mountain Rescue, found dead of his injuries, plus teeth marks to the face !!
There was no choice but to re-ascend and take an alternative route, a longer route, but darkness was falling and we still had some distance to cover. Map and GPS to the rescue.
We would have to head North off Sail Gharbh to find the head of Coire Grannda and then South to pick up the track coming in from Coulags, a distance of 6km in total, the first part being over rough ground, but safe ground. Headtorches went on as soon as we had climbed back up.
It was with much relief to finally be on the track which at the head of the Coire is obvious despite the snow and all that remained was the long walk out to Coulags, it was also detected in the ladies voices, the tones had returned to normal
As we started the descent on the Coulags side, we could see distance torch lights, which raised hopes that one at least would be the Marine, but it would be some time before we could know. As we eventually got nearer one was visibly getting closer, our worries over the Marine, together with his worries over us, especially his mum, Debbie. With an immense sense of relief, it was the Marine, and with weary legs, we made the last part of the journey to Coulags and the sanctuary of the bothy.
The bright torch that we had also witnessed turned out to be none other than Kevin and Rupert the dog, his loving companion, now very sadly passed
We exchanged stories whilst cooking some dinner, it was 2230hrs, and then sleep, some day !!
Now rewind back to the Marine, his alternative route and to meet us at the bealach after the first top. He had had his own adventure. He had made good progress up the snow slope, as expected, probably would have arrived at the bealach before us. But part way on the ascent he stopped for a break, at which point the slope avalanched, carrying him with it. Fortunately, escaping with just bruises, painful nonetheless, it could have been a lot worse, he made his way around to Coulags at a lower level, to then have the agonising wait for the rest of us.
I think we slept well that night.
The walk out in the morning was pleasantly calm after the previous days events, with one additional highlight in meeting Danny Macaskill riding in with some friends, it’s a small world.
So it was certainly a day to remember, a story to tell, one of many.
"I think the reason people hold onto memories so tight is because memories are the only things that don't change, when everybody else does" Anon
