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I have been thinking way too long on how to start this report. Let's just say I am a big enthusiast of Scottish nature and mountains and I am not lucky enough to live in Scotland so I travel every year from the Czech Republic to Scotland to enjoy a bit of Scottish hills
. And because I will probably not be able to travel there this year I was feeling sad lately
.
That is maybe the reason why I write this report. To remind myself of the great time I have traveled through Scotland in August/September 2017 when the window in my busy schedule has finally opened
.
So on 29th August 2017 I packed my gear and headed for Prague Airport. I arrived to Edinburgh airport quite late, I rented a car and I set off for Braemar where I planned to stay overnight. But I was too slow I guess, the campsite was already closed when I arrived
. So I just bought supplies and went on to look for some suitable wild camping spot which I found near the main road towards Ballater.
Next morning I woke up early. Very early
. I was so looking forward for my Scottish adventure I could not sleep any longer.
I drove straight to Glen Muick. I wanted to do the White Mounth - first day, long day
. I parked the car and wanted to pay the parking fee but the machine accepted only coins!
I had only three pounds in coins and it wanted four!
So I jumped back to the car and drove back to Ballater, where i got change for the machine, and then back again, paid the fee and got ready for the walk.
I remember it was very fine day, little bit windy but almost no rain, perfect for such a walk. I was so happy to be in Scotland again.
I read a lot about Lochnagar and its beautiful crags and loch. I also read that it was climbed by the Queen Victoria herself, so it must be a truly extraordinary mountain
. When I came under Meikle Pap I immediately knew why it is so popular. The view was just brathtaking!
I climbed Meikle Pap to get even better view and got some pictures from there. The wind was quite strong so I soon decided to continue up the path towards the top. The views from the top were beautiful I particularly liked the stone with the directions and names of the mountains in the view.
- Lochnagar from Meikle Pap
- Top of Lochnagar
Soon I set off for the second Munro, Carn a'Choire Bhoidheach. Its summit is not very distinctive but the corries to the north of the summit are quite nice
.
- Carn a'Choire Bhoidheach
From there it was a pleasant walk down the hill and then up again towards the Carn an t-Sagairt Mor. I didn't know which of the cairn marks the very top so I touched both just to be sure
. Later I found out it is the first one when you approach the top from the south. I surveyed the debris of the plane which had crashed here in 1956, very interesting. When I decided to countinue I found out I lost my beanie on the way to this top. I was looking for it on the way back to the col and eventually found it near the path! I was quite lucky (or my ears let's say
).
- Carn an t-Sagairt Mor
- Debris of a plane
I continued towards Cairn Bannoch, a nice top with not very dramatic views but its stony top gave me a chance to have a snack and a short rest.
- Cairn Bannoch
Then it was only a short distance to get to Broad Cairn. There I finally met some people. I must say the view was very nice and I understand why this mountain is also very popular. I spent only a while on the top and set off for Spittal of Glenmuick because I wanted to have enough time to find a nice campsite.
- Broad Cairn
I think it took me slightly under 8 hours to walk the White Mounth. I had enough time to travel west (good forecast for the next couple of days) so I jumped into the car and drove to Invergarry where I spent the night in Faichemard farm campsite, really nice place
.
Next morning I set off for Isle of Skye. In 2016 we managed to climb 3 Munros there in good conditions (but in April) and I hoped maybe I could do some more
. But the weather wasn't as I hoped to be so I decided to do Marsco. I always liked the silhouette of this mountain and always thought what a view must be from there. The top was cloud clear when I started the walk from Sligachan. Soon, few showers came by but by the time I came to the bealach the rain stopped. I climbed the very, very steep part to the ridge and then enjoyed one of the finest ridge walks
. Marsco is an extraordinary place. I could see Cuillins and Bla Bheinn (when the cloud cleared for a while) and also surrounding smaller hills and Sligachan. But soon clouds came in and it was time to go back. I said bye bye to the sheep on the grassy ridge and walked back carefully. I got soaked on the way to the car but it was worth it. Marsco was truly a fine experience a mountain with great character.
- Top of Marsco
- Wildlife from Marsco
- Sgurr na Stri
- Bla Bheinn
I spent the night in Glenbrittle campsite as usually
.
Forecast for the next day said no showers so I decided to do a bit of scrambling and try Sgurr a Mhadaidh and Sgurr a Ghreadaidh. The way to An Dorus was quite good, no difficulties. I wanted to do Sgurr a Mhadaidh first because it is the easier one and see how hard it will be. The cloud was covering the tops but I could see Loch Coruisk from An Dorus. So I scrambled to the top of Sgurr a Mhadaidh, a fine experience although the top was not clear
. I had a snack near the top and waited for the top to clear but it did not
. So I descended to An Dorus and met a couple of guys who just descended from Sgurr a Ghreadaidh.
- An Dorus
- Sgurr a Mhadaidh top
Now I must say the first part of the scramble is really scary (especially on the way back
). The scramble to the top of Sgurr a Ghreadaidh is more difficult than on Sgurr a Mhadaidh in my opinion. I soon encountered the Wart, it was majestic and even intimidating in the shroud of mist
. But I soon reached the summit and even there were no views I felt great
. I descended the same way and then enjoyed well deserved rest in the campsite.
- Sgurr a Ghreadaidh top - almost there
The next day I decided to drive to Torridon and climb Beinn Alligin. I was curious if the weather will oblige this time, to be honest I have never had a nice day in Torridon during my holidays
. So I set off and when I arrived to Torridon, the weather was just the best you can wish. That also meant the car park was already full when I got there, so I had to leave the car little bit further near the road. I started soon after I parked but the hurry took its toll because I forgot to take my camera!
. I realized that I forgot it after 1 km so it was not that bad. It was still ok to go back and grab it.
The walk up Tom na Gruagaich is great, in the last part it feels like a staircase
. When I got to the top, the weather was just great and I enjoyed beautiful views all around (especially Liathach). I continued towards Sgurr Mor and met a lot of people going in the opossite direction. When I got to the top of Sgurr Mor the weather improved! The views were breathtaking with Baosbheinn to the north, horns and Beinn Dearg to the west. I decided to do the horns and so I descended on the west side of Sgurr Mor and soon the fun began. The horns were not difficult and to do it in these fine conditions was like a reward for the not very good days I experienced in previous years.
And Sgurr Mor looked so majestic from the horns!
- Tom na Gruagaich and me:)
- Sgurr Mor and Baosbheinn
- Baosbheinn
- Horns
- Beinn Alligin
- Waterfall:)
I spent the night in Torridon campsite and next day set off for Ben Wyvis. When I arrived to the parking lot, no cars were there. First part of the walk was easy but when i got to the top of An Cabar the wind had almost swept me from the ridge
. To be honest I have never experienced such strong wind in my life. I was walking towards the top and was leaning in 45 degrees angle
. But soon I got used to it. Ben Wyvis is a fine mountain, pity I did not get many views
but the experience with the wind has made for it
.
- An Cabar views
- Ben Wyvis top
The funny thing was I met a lot of people on the way back. I told everyone that the wind is very strong but everyone was like, 'aye that's nothing'.
I moved to Ullapool and slept in a B&B. I wanted to do Cul Mor next day but the weather was very poor so I just walked the Knockan Crag circle and then drove towards Faichemard campsite once more. Then I enjoyed a bit of rest.
Final day was also poor in weather and I was thinking what to do
. I later thought it would be better to try some lower hill and chose Pap of Glencoe. I drove to Glencoe and saw that top was visible, good choice I thought. When I climbed to the top it was still clear and there were beautiful views all around. And I was lucky to see a nice rainbow on the way back to the car.
- Views from the Pap
- Rainbow:)
I flew back to the Czech Republic the same day
. It was a short holiday but very intense and I enjoyed every bit of it
.
It is interesting how I could easily remember these detailed memories even though I did not take any notes or anything. I guess the pictures help
. I think I wrote this report to preserve those memories.
To be honest my lifetime dream is to climb all Munros and as many other Scottish hills as possible. I do not know whether I will manage to do it but I will do my best
. I climbed 10 Munros this holiday so I will make it maybe in 30 years
I want to thank you for your time and patience in case you made it and read the whole report. I hope the report was not boring. I thought my adventure will be worth sharing and maybe someone will find it interesting. I am always happy to read the reactions of the people who love the hill as much as I do
.
Cheers
A short summary:
30.8. White Mounth
31.8. Marsco
1.9. Sgurr a Mhadaidh and Sgurr a Ghreadaidh
2.9. Beinn Alligin
3.9. Ben Wyvis
4.9. Knockan Crag
5.9. Pap of Glencoe
And a short video of the trip
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBJslf3abdM