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Despite having known since 2nd year that my university's 4th year involved a trip to Harris, I had only begun researching what I could climb there about 2 months in advance of leaving. Upon finding out that we were to be located at the Scaladale Centre (sadistically close to An Cliseam), the Outer Hebrides' only Corbett was instantly made top of the list. Our day off was by far the worst weather of the week so the trip was left to our second last day, where we got back at 15:30 and Jack (who had decided to come last minute) and I departed at 15:50. Either way you cut it, it was going to be interesting.
We began the walk up Gleann Sgaladail which, due to a ton of rain earlier in the day, was completely sodden. Jack's feet were kept dry by the use of gaiters; mine by leaping from grassy tussock to grassy tussock. The path was relatively straightforward until about halfway up, at which point it completely disappears and we ended up on either side of the river with both of us looking for a way across for 10 minutes. I'd recommend never crossing it and following as closely to the bank as you can.
Up Gleann Sgaladail:
The top of the glen was marked by slightly drier ground and small drumlins. We could just spot a path up the first target of Mullach an Langa, but it had disappeared by the time we got there. The ascent was not too bad but Jack hadn't been a long hillwalk in quite a while so took a few short breaks. After slightly levelling off, a large Lewisian gneiss scree sheet marked the final push up to the small cairn.
An Cliseam on the way up:
Jack with Liuthaid (from earlier in the week) in the background:
Down to Loch an Siar and the Sound of Taransay:
Summit Mullach an Langa:
Over to the next top:
After having stolen 10 packets of Borders biscuits, we had two each on the summit followed by flask tea. The views were unbelievable. The next stop of Mulla bho Thuath looked a bit intimidating but we were at the top in no time, although going slightly off course before reaching the top in light clag.
Up Mulla bho Thuath:
Looking back to MaL:
We briefly stopped to admire the shifting cloud but as the rain had slightly started, we wanted to get to lower ground. The clag had completely disappeared by the time we reached the bealach, where the first enjoyable technicalities arose and even more photos were taken.
Ridge up Mulla bho Dheas:
Over to Loch Brúnabhal:
Back up S ridge of MbT:
Jack looking into the glen:
In the clag:
We had a proper break again at the top of Mulla bho Dheas where we could admire the seemingly never less impressive view. We could see most of the places we had been that week with the North Harris Trust. Jack noted a few times how glad he was to have decided to come.
Into Gleann Lacasdail:
Giolabhal Glas:
Over to west Harris:
Both of us had been eyeing up the peculiar descent off MbD since the ridge made itself known to us in Gleann Sgaladale, and I had warned Jack of it's potential to be a bit dodgy. I had seen signs to keep to the left, but in the end following the path straight down and through a small chute on the left proved not too challenging. Jack did require me to take his rucksack for him as he got down. I'd rate it as a high Grade 2 (although that is rather subjective) and the average flexible person should have no trouble with it. If you did happen to fall, the drop itself is about 4m onto slidey grass and not off the ridge. The path continued behind us so perhaps we missed the easier turnoff.
Although obscured from view, the chute is to the left of the grassy rake just right of centre, where the path continues:
The mini-top of An t-Isean was reached in no time, but was also quite steep despite it's brevity. It was the only hill of the day to have no summit feature.
An Cliseam from An t-Isean:
Sunlit rain sheets:
Evening colours:
We looked on, somewhat in awe, of our target ahead: nearly 100m down and nearly 200m up; the highest point in the Outer Hebrides, 35th most prominent point in the British Isles and (possibly) our goal of being the highest people in the whole Hebrides. Trying not to stop for too long, both of us began the descent, with sheep looking down on us from above. The whole ordeal took around 45 minutes.
Looking back to Mulla bho Dheas and An t-Isean:
Half way up:
After an enjoyable maze through the huge scree, we reached the summit cairn and trig, celebrating with a handshake, a "well done" and numerous cups of tea and biscuits inside the shelter, away from the cold wind. With the fading light, the atmosphere (both physical and mental) was very unlike most other hillwalks I have done.
The summit looking towards Loch Langhabhat and the fjord of Loch Shìophoirt:
The dark descent:
We had waited about quite a while at the summit (although not as long as the above image may suggest) and had to make the decision to alter the WH horseshoe route and go S onto the road. It would take longer but once on the road, we knew we couldn't get lost. This ended up being an extremely sensible idea as we were barely halfway down before it was very dark. Although we both fell numerous times, slipping on the ground; indistinguishable from water at most points, and falling into holes; our hopes being kept alive by sporadic car headlights getting slowly closer (one of which was the rest of the group coming back from Hushinish), we eventually reached the road.
I had seriously underestimated the length of our diversion and the road seemed to never end. Cars, oncoming or otherwise, lit the way behind and ahead. I mistook our destination a handful of times before Jack became audibly impatient. The one wonderful upside was the night sky which was the most lit I have ever seen it. The Milky Way was in full view for the first time in my life. After some worried messages from other pals (and us saying we'll be back in 40 minutes when in fact it was double that), we eventually saw the lights of the centre beckoning below. On the final bend, Jack startled me by pointing out a sheep on the road - he had been wanting to catch one for the whole trip. Unable to pass up the opportunity he ran up behind it and grabbed it, pulling it to the side of the road. In tears, I got my camera out and took a photo (I wont share that here). Although clearly shaken, the sheep trotted off back into the heath.
In hysterics the rest of the way back, we clambered into the common room where staff and students were on hand to look at photos and make our dinner, not quite ready for the early start for our last working day. A wonderful end to a wonderful trip.
