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It's only been a few months since our
winter visit to An Caisteal and I can still remember the joy we had cramponing up the Twistin' Hill in the blazing early April sun. It was an extraordinary trip and we both loved it, despite not adding Beinn a'Chroin to the tally, but of course, safety came first. The traverse between the two Munros was too dodgy in winter conditions, but we didn't cry over it. It gave us an excuse to re-visit this route, climb the second Munro and above all, have more fun twisting on the northern ridge of the Castle
We followed the usual route from Glen Falloch up the Twistin' Ridge, traversing both Munros with some scrambling (albeit easy) involved. Glen Falloch was wet-wet-wet but that's not unusual, especially for this time of year. Weather was unsettled with passing showers, but mostly conditions were good with some sunny spells and low winds.
Starting from the layby on A82, we followed the beaten track into Glen Falloch. We saw even from the glen, that the slopes of An Caisteal were busy with walkers, single ones, pairs and larger groups. One party crossed the river and aimed for Cruach Ardrain which gave us an idea about an alternative route for this one. Kevin has done it (and Tulaichean) in the past, using the southern approach, but the route from Glen Falloch looks more convenient if we want to do this duo in a single day, driving from Inverness. But that's a plan for next year.
Back to An Caisteal, I was eager to tackle the steep slog up Sron Gharbh again:
We took a slightly different line of ascent this time, but I don't think it makes much difference, the ground is just as wet everywhere
Higher up, we picked a well worn path. Kevin was in good shape and he was charging up the slope with the speed of light, making me struggle as I did my best to keep up with him. I'm glad his injury is history now, but he should wait for his wife sometimes!
Having climbed roughly 350m, we marched past a large group of young walkers (students, guessing by what I heard from their conversations). It made me feel better about myself, if I can still overtake teenagers up the hill, that means, there is still life in my old bones!
Looking down the busy ridge from near the top of Sron Gharbh:
View west along Glen Falloch:
The Twistin' Ridge awaits
I know, I know, it's better in winter conditions, but never mind...
The wind was not too bad higher up, but t had a cold edge, reminding us that winter is not far away! We stopped about half way along the ridge to dig up hats and gloves. Both in front and behind us, fellow walkers enjoyed the climb:
The cloud was drifting just above summits and it looked like it may bring a passing shower, but overall, conditions were good, typical Scottish autumn with all the shades of orange brown and yellow... plus an occasional black in the shape of Black Panther
As we neared the summit, the views got better despite the drifting cloud. Behind us, Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy hills:
The first portion of very easy scrambling, just below the summit of An Caisteal. This is nothing more than a large, rocky step. Funny, I didn't remember it from the winter visit. Must have been completely covered in snow and we just walked up it in crampons
Kevin approaching the first scrambly section:
Panther as seen from above
View north-west with Ben Lui group in the foreground:
We stopped on the top of the large outcrop (this is the literal castle) to take some more photos. The true summit was now only a short walk away:
Our second target looked very steep but we wouldn't let Beinn a'Chroin intimidate us the way it did in spring!
Looking back to the castle outcrop, Bridge of Orchy Munros in the background:
The summit has two cairns, the northern one is marginally higher, but the southern one has better views towards Loch Lomond and surrounding mountains:
A wider pano of the southern view:
Beinn Dorain and the Tyndrum Corbetts:
After a quick photo session on the summit, we descended a short distance along the path and found a large boulder, protecting us from the wind. It was time for a well deserved cuppa and as we enjoyed our picnic, we studied the ridge connecting An Caisteal and Beinn a'Chroin. We had mixed memories from the previous visit. The traverse is rocky in places and the bad step defeated us in winter conditions, but now it should not be a problem... At least that's what we hoped!
After lunch, it was time to face the menace!
The descent path from An Caisteal is eroded and slippery, but it felt so much easier in summer conditions. We hopped down like a pair of eager rabbits
Loking back at An Caisteal:
Patches of blue sky above southern Scotland:
OK, so this is the bit that we chickened out of, let's see how we manage this time!
Panther studying the rocks:
2018-09-23 an caisteal 103 by
Ewa Dalziel, on Flickr
Panoramic view of Beinn a'Chroin from the bealach connecting the two Munros:
We crossed the bealach and followed the well worn path up to the bad step. I was a little apprehensive...
We reached the bottom of the bad step and with one look I knew, we had made the right decision the previous time, not even attempting it in full winter conditions with loads of loose snow and ice-covered rocks. It didn't seem so drastically difficult now, but I allowed Kevin first so he would find the footholds and guide me up after him.
I always find it easier when scrambling after somebody else. It's a matter of confidence, I think. Knowing that someone has just done it and they managed without any problems, gives me a positive boost.
Hmmm, first let's have a good look...
The bottom part of the bad step requires a good stretch over a small overhang:
...but once past that, the rest of the scramble is much easier:
When Kevin waved me up, I stretched my leg as high as I could, almost splitting my trousers. It took me a couple of attempts to find the most comfortable position as the rock was wet, but once I hauled myself up the overhang, I was Ok with the rest of the scramble. As we emerged above the bad step, we met three other walkers going in the opposite direction, they were waiting for the traffic to pass, so they could scramble down
Suddenly, it started to rain, but it was just a shower. We continued the ascent, now easy, with one more rocky step but this one hardly a scramble. Basically, if you can manage the bad step, there would be nothing else troubling you further along this route.
As the rain passed, we emerged on the ridge itself. It is not as long as the Twistin' Hill, but still offers an interesting traverse:
We reached the true summit, which is on the middle of the three tops, but the cairn here is small and there was nowhere to sit, so we decided to take a break on the northern top, where facilities for a longer break are much better
Before we left the summit, we were gifted with a 5min rainbow:
We traversed to the bigger cairn on the northern top and stopped here for a 10 min rest. This was once considered the summit; views are indeed better from here.
Back to An Caisteal:
NW along Glen Falloch:
View back along the ridge:
Panoramic snap of the ridge of Cruach Ardrain, the next target. Ben More behind:
Due north:
With Lucy (her 92nd Munro) on my M no. 244. Possibly the last new Munro this year (only a handful left to do, most of them down south or on Skye):
A second shower charging towards us!
Having finished our tea, we dressed up in waterproofs, and just as well as it began to hail! Thankfully, the freezing shower didn't last long and we could enjoy the descent down the northern ridge of Beinn a'Chroin without getting soaked
2018-09-23 an caisteal 163 by
Ewa Dalziel, on Flickr
Back in the glen, we were reminded, that this was a wet country!
The famous Punk Rock
View back to Beinn a'Chroin from the soggy path:
The walk back to the dry land took us more than we anticipated, as we had to fight our way across big puddles of water and countless wee streams. Glen Falloch is one of the soggiest, squelchiest glens I've ever walked, but the two mountains are worth the pain on the return route!
......................
Summing up, this is a brilliant traverse but if you are not a confident ice scrambler, leave it for a dry summer day. I don't know why I assumed that all southern hills are BHL's. These two definitely are not. It's first class hillwalking, even in unsettled conditions.