Steeple the Steep Way

[dav2930]

The story behind this trip really begins over forty years ago, when, as a young teenager, I discovered the books of A. H. Griffin. Drawn into their enchanted world of sunny fells and dramatic crags, I fell under the spell not only of Harry Griffin's evocative prose, but also of Geoffrey Berry's black and white photographs, which illustrate the books. One of these photos, which appears in The Roof of England, shows a view across Mirk Cove to the east face of Steeple. I was fascinated by this scene of rock and scree, shadowed recesses and sunlit aretes, and longed to explore the reality of it. A slender rib of rock rising straight up the middle of the lower part of the face suggested the possibility of a route. It was hard to tell whether this would turn out to be an easy scramble, or serious enough to require climbing equipment, or else dangerously loose or impossibly difficult.

Geoffrey Berry's photo of Mirk Cove with Steeple on the right.

In those days my opportunities to get out into the hills were confined to family holidays. My parents did allow me to go off on my own, though, surprising as that seems looking back on it now. At first I was content to follow the standard routes up the fells, but my desire to explore craggier terrain soon had me venturing onto easy scrambles, which led to my joining a local climbing club. This gave me the chance not only to learn the basic skills required for rock climbing, but also to go on trips independently of family holidays. Most of these club trips were to the Derbyshire Peak and North Wales. Only rarely did we visit the Lakes, and even then, the east face of Steeple never featured on anyone's itinerary. Hence, my early dream faded into the background, eclipsed by the more usual aspirations of climbing punters. Indeed, as I became more familiar with guidebooks, I never noticed any mention of climbs or scrambles on Steeple.

And so the situation remained for decades. Until, that is, I bought the new FRCC Wired Guide to Lake District Rock just a couple of years ago. Thumbing through its glossy pages, I found myself staring in amazement at a full-page colour photo of - you guessed it - the east face of Steeple. More significantly, overlaying the picture was a yellow line showing a route up the face, which followed the very rib of rock that I'd noticed in Geoffrey Berry's photo all those years ago. On the same page was a description of the route in six pitches, totalling 160 metres in length, awarded two stars for quality and graded Very Difficult. First climbed in 1957, it is named, aptly enough, Steeple Buttress.

Topo and description of Steeple Buttress copied from FRCC's Lake District Rock.

So it was that, after half a lifetime, I determined to make my youthful dream a reality. All I needed was a suitable opportunity. I considered trying it solo, but binned that idea when I checked out the route in the UKC logbooks. The overview there gives Steeple Buttress a grade of Severe and describes it as 'A serious mountaineering route with an alpine feel. Excellent views - but friable rock and often not ideal protection / belays.' Only seven ascents were recorded and all the comments read like warnings - '...limited protection and harrowing in parts'; 'Only the top pitch has good protection. Several belays are marginal and the rock is very friable. Quite a serious undertaking for a VD leader seeking a mountaineering day.'...etc.

The long, hot summer of 2018 had given Karl and myself a good climbing season, but as it drew to a close our thoughts turned to easier, more mountaineering style climbs that could be combined with walking over the tops. Steeple Buttress fitted the bill, so I suggested it to Karl with the relevant caveats. Unfortunately the weather through September turned wetter and windier, so the idea was shelved for a while. But then the forecast for Saturday 29th was looking pretty good, albeit with chilly temperatures. It was Karl who thoughtfully pointed out that this might be a chance to do the Steeple route - quite possibly our last realistic chance of the year. The decision was made. Our plan was to meet at the Bowness Knott car park in Ennerdale and cycle up the forestry track to the bridge, then walk up over Lingmell and into Mirk Cove. The climb would then take us to the top of Steeple, from which we'd continue over Scoat Fell and Haycock before descending back into Ennerdale for the bikes. It promised to be a grand day out, all being well.

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We'd arranged to meet in the car park at 8am, but both of us arrived early. It was about 8am by the time we set off on the bikes. The sky was cloudy but the breeze was light and the ground dry. In order to reduce the overall weight to be carried, we'd kept the climbing gear to a reasonable minimum. It was a pleasant ride in the cool, morning air and we were surprised, almost disappointed, to reach the bridge so soon. A good track continued to a cattle grid and gate, where we left the bikes. Walking through the plantations towards the Woundel Beck, we were pleased to see a footbridge over it, which wasn't shown on our obviously outdated maps. A few hundred yards along the track from there a thin but definite path led up through a clearing in the plantations that cloaked the steep hillside. After a long, steady plod up here we emerged at last from the trees onto the open fell and began the pleasant traverse over the heathery undulations of Lingmell.

Ennerdale water from the top of the plantations.

Disappointingly, the clag had descended onto Pillar, Steeple and Haycock. But by the time we reached Low Beck the tops were clearing and the cloud beginning to break up a bit, to our relief. It was quite windy up here, but we figured that it might be more sheltered in Mirk Cove.

Pillar, Steeple and Scoat Fell, from Lingmell. Cloud base beginning to lift a bit.

From Low Beck the trail led across the hillside to where the path up Steeple's north ridge went off to the right. A slighter path continued horizontally towards High Beck and Wind Gap Cove, which we followed. After a while, though, it petered out in the rough grass and heather, leaving us to find our own way up into the cove. With hindsight we probably would've been better off going up the north ridge for a bit then striking off left to enter the cove at a higher level.

Wind Gap Cove, with Mirk Cove up to the right.

Never mind. As we reached the edge of Wind Gap Cove we kept to the grassy slopes on its right side, which allowed a rising traverse to be made to the mouth of Mirk Cove. We crossed some bouldery ground and found it easiest to keep to the floor of the cove, which rose gradually.

Mirk Cove, with steeple on the right. The climb follows the left profile leading to Steeple's summit.

Mirk Cove is described in the climbing guide as 'one of the most beautiful and remote coves in the Lake District'. At the back of it the start of the climb was quickly and easily reached. We checked the topo to make sure we were in the right place then parked ourselves on the grass at the foot of the rocks, put on some extra layers, geared up and consumed some nosh and liquid. There were some wet streaks on the crags above, but the line of the climb, which is defined in its lower half by a long, narrow rib, looked dry enough. Though it was chilly, we were indeed sheltered from the worst of the wind, as we'd hoped. We soaked in the wild atmosphere of this remote place, sombre and forbidding as it was today under grey clouds, with the croaks of the ravens echoing from the dark crags. But we had a long climb ahead of us, so we didn't overdo our dallying.

Looking up the east face of Steeple, approaching the start of the climb.

The first rocks were wonderfully rough and very easy-angled. There was a lot of grass around, but this could be avoided for the most part. The easy scrambling went on and on without any need to place protection. As I approached the foot of the rib I could see it was exactly as the guidebook describes it - slightly undercut at the start. Reassuring as this was, Karl called up to say I was nearly out of rope. That wasn't supposed to happen. It was a 50 metre rope and the first pitch, which was meant to be 35 metres, was supposed to continue a long way up the rib. Well, I couldn't argue with the fact that I was nearly out of rope, so I arranged a marginal belay and let Karl come up. The guidebook writer had evidently made a mistake.

No matter, we were clearly on the route and knew exactly where we were on it. With Karl belaying I continued up the rib - nice, easy climbing on solid, rough rock. After about 30 metres or so I came to a very distinct square ledge at the foot of a flat wall with a crack in it. All this unequivocally fitted the guidebook description of the stance at the top of pitch 1. Great, we were definitely on route and the belay - a hex in the crack - was excellent. It was just slightly irritating, and potentially confusing, that the length of 35 metres given for pitch 1 refers only to the undercut rib, while the description and topo includes the scrambling approach as if were part of the pitch, which would make it about 75 - 80 metres long.

So far, the climbing had been little more than scrambling. The next pitch (pitch 2), looked a bit more difficult, at least to begin with. The first 10 metres were perhaps a little more technical than one would expect on a VDiff, and there was no protection to speak of. But the rock was perfect and the climbing very enjoyable. Better holds soon arrived and the angle eased, giving easy climbing up lovely, rough rock. However, the block belay at the top of the pitch, just below a horizontal intrusion of banded rock, would have been safer had it been attached to the mountain! Obviously this was one of the less than ideal belays that UKC warns of. As Karl came into view I called down - "Nice climbing isn't it?", to which he replied, "It would be if I could feel my bl**dy fingers!". It was pretty chilly, I had to admit.

Pitch 2 of Steeple Buttress.

Above the banded intrusion the rock was smoother and more shattered. It was also steeper, at least for the first part of pitch 3, which went up a cracked, vertical wall. Fortunately it was reasonably well protected, and after a tricky move or two at the top led onto easier ground. The rocks became more broken and gave way to a grassy rake, which was quite damp.

At the grassy rake above pitch 3, Karl coming up.

An easy scramble up rocks on the edge of the grass, overlooking a big drop, constituted the official 4th pitch. The two remaining pitches above here went up a sort of shattered tower on the left. Pitch 5 gave good climbing up a wall and arete, with good protection but some loose rock requiring care. It finished up a steep little corner with an awkward exit onto a grassy ledge. There were two bits of rock embedded in the wet grass and moss, but both were loose, so the squelchy vegetation itself had to serve as the handholds.

Immediately above, the final pitch went up a slim groove to the left of a wider, evil-looking corner. We were very glad the route didn't go up the corner, but the slim groove, with a wide crack in the back of it, was vertical, slightly damp and quite tricky; it certainly seemed more difficult than the average VDiff. Luckily it was well protected with large hexes.

Looking up the final pitch.

On these final two pitches I felt vindicated in deciding against soloing the climb, as I think it would have been a hairy (and scary) experience. A rope and a few nuts and slings made all the difference.

Karl at the top of the slim groove on pitch 6

After the groove, easier rocks led to the summit. Apparently you can belay from the summit itself, but in view of the wind it seemed wiser to belay a bit lower down, to make communication easier. From there it was a short, easy scramble to the top.

Looking down the east face from the summit of Steeple

Having been on the climb for about 3 hours, it was nice to stand on the open, flat ground of the summit. The sun was shining but it was very windy, so it wasn't a place to linger. A few photos, climbing gear put away, change back into our walking boots, and we were off down the south ridge looking for a sheltered spot for lunch.

Big smile from Karl on summit of Steeple.

Black Crag and Pillar, from summit of Steeple.

The ridge to Scoat Fell

At the col between Steeple and Scoat Fell we found a nice little grassy ledge that was sheltered from the wind, just down on the east slope, giving us grandstand views down into Mirk Cove and across to Pillar. The top of Great Gable peeped above the ridge of Black Crag. Karl had thought to bring a hip flask of brandy, which enhanced the flavour of our coffee considerably!

We reflected on the climb, which we'd thoroughly enjoyed. It certainly wasn't perfect as a rock climb, being somewhat discontinuous and broken, but as an adventurous mountaineering route up a craggy fellside, it's well worth seeking out. Probably not recommended if VDiff is at the upper limit of your climbing experience, though.

Black Crag and Pillar from our sheltered lunch spot.

The walk up the ridge to Scoat Fell was very pleasant, giving great views looking back to Steeple.

Steeple from the edge of the Scoat Fell plateau. The entire line of Steeple Buttress can be seen.

But as we walked along the edge of the plateau the clag descended on and off restricting views from the summit.

Summit of Scoat Fell

It was a nice walk along to Haycock, though the ceiling of grey cloud continued to restrict the views as it lowered onto the summits. A new fence had been erected along the ridge to protect the Ennerdale rewilding project from straying sheep. They really need to get rid of the suffocating spruce plantations first though, much of which remains.

Shelter on the summit of Haycock

Little Gowder Crag was next, the descent over the other side of which has the added interest of a couple of little vertical outcrops neatly interrupting the line of the drystone wall (easily avoided on the right). We followed the wall a bit further, then veered off to the right to catch the blunt ridge between Deep Gill and Silvercove Beck descending into Ennerdale. A neat path led us through the heather down to the woodlands.

Descending the heathery ridge back into Ennerdale.

Iron Crag

These woods were surprisingly natural looking and touched in places with the browns and golds of Autumn. A smart wooden footbridge in a picturesque spot got us across Woundell Beck and back to the bikes.

The Woundell Beck at the footbridge

An excellent end to the climbing season, we agreed, and a very statisfying day out. As we cycled back to the car park, I felt rather chuffed to have fulfilled such a sketchy ambition from the very beginnings of my life as a hillgoer, which could so easily have been buried by time. And I felt very grateful to A.H. Griffin for the big part his books played in inspiring that life, which has been wonderful. My love for the hill country has never waned in all those years. If anything it has deepened as I've come to understand how it cultivates the sort of values and strengths which protect against the toxic quagmire of our consumerist economy, and the lies of the politicians who espouse it.

We finished our day with a pint of dark ale in Ennerdale Bridge, which went down a treat as we bounced around a few ideas for the coming winter. Every season has its challenges and joys.

[johnkaysleftleg]

Really enjoyable report of what looked an exciting route. So glad you got to realise a childhood ambition.

[martin.h]

Hi Dave,
That was you? wow. We could hear you both talking to each other when we were dropping into wind gap, we couldn't see anybody behind us and were wondering where the voices were coming from, then we saw you, about half way up your climb, this was about 12:30pm, it looks a pretty impressive route, well worth a pint of dark ale, I say
Nice one!

[Mal Grey]

Enjoyed that, a very "old school" route by the sound of it! Nicely described, took me back to my own modest explorations of some of the lakeland corries 30 years ago.

[dav2930]

Really enjoyable report of what looked an exciting route. So glad you got to realise a childhood ambition.

Thank you JK, glad you enjoyed the report - I enjoyed writing it. It was one of the few childhood ambitions I have managed to realise.

Hi Dave,
That was you? wow. We could hear you both talking to each other when we were dropping into wind gap, we couldn't see anybody behind us and were wondering where the voices were coming from, then we saw you, about half way up your climb, this was about 12:30pm, it looks a pretty impressive route, well worth a pint of dark ale, I say
Nice one!

Hi Martin, well I never! I'm amazed you could hear us talking from Wind Gap, that's quite a long way off! I guess the wind was blowing in that direction though. We noticed a few folk walking on the ridge while we were climbing; little did we know that two of them were fellow Walkhighlanders! Great stuff

Enjoyed that, a very "old school" route by the sound of it! Nicely described, took me back to my own modest explorations of some of the lakeland corries 30 years ago.

Thanks Mal. Yes, "old school" is a good description for it. You'd expect the first ascent to have been way back in the 1890's, not 1957 - the height of the Brown / Whillans era! There are some wonderful corries in the lakes. One of my favourites is Birkness Combe above Buttermere - some great climbs there. I'd be interested to hear about some of your explorations Mal.

[trailmasher]

Well done on your climb related in a great report:clap: in a most wild and wonderful part of the LD

[dav2930]

Well done on your climb related in a great report:clap: in a most wild and wonderful part of the LD

Many thanks TM. It certainly is a wild and wonderful part of the Lakes

[Alteknacker]

A massively enjoyable report on every level - wonderful .

I'm embarrassed to realise that I've passed this by 3 times while walking the Wasdale Horseshoe, without realising what treasures lay below to the north.

On the one hand, I feel really inspired to try this one...
... but on the other hand it seems to contain all the things I dislike/fear - friable rock, and soggy greenery...
"Excellent views - but friable rock and often not ideal protection / belays."
"There were two bits of rock embedded in the wet grass and moss, but both were loose, so the squelchy vegetation itself had to serve as the handholds."
“…but some loose rock requiring care.”
"There were two bits of rock embedded in the wet grass and moss, but both were loose, so the squelchy vegetation itself had to serve as the handholds."
“…but some loose rock requiring care.”

But I wondered how it compared with, for example: Person y Clogwyn, or Cyfrwy Arete, or the Cuillin Ridge? Certainly the first of these has some pretty friable rock, and there are some quite exposed pitches with some technical aspects on CA?

Crazy to think of soloing?? You say: "On these final two pitches I felt vindicated in deciding against soloing the climb, as I think it would have been a hairy (and scary) experience."

BTW: "My love for the hill country has never waned in all those years. If anything it has deepened as I've come to understand how it cultivates the sort of values and strengths which protect against the toxic quagmire of our consumerist economy, and the lies of the politicians who espouse it." Hardly a day goes by when I don't reflect on how lucky we are not be defined by this b######s.

Thanks again for posting this beauty

[dav2930]

On the one hand, I feel really inspired to try this one...
... but on the other hand it seems to contain all the things I dislike/fear - friable rock, and soggy greenery...

But I wondered how it compared with, for example: Person y Clogwyn, or Cyfrwy Arete, or the Cuillin Ridge? Certainly the first of these has some pretty friable rock, and there are some quite exposed pitches with some technical aspects on CA?

Crazy to think of soloing?? You say: "On these final two pitches I felt vindicated in deciding against soloing the climb, as I think it would have been a hairy (and scary) experience."

Many thanks for your generous comments AK.

I'm chuffed that you enjoyed this report so much and I'll try to answer your questions with as much candour and consideration as I can.

It's a shame I haven't done the Cyfrwy Arete (or the Clogwyn y Person Arete), so I can't give you a comparison. I imagine the Clogwyn y Person is considerably easier, as it's graded Diff rather than VDiff. As for the Cuillin Ridge, I'd say Steeple Buttress, especially the top part, is more difficult and serious than Naismith's Route. I believe you've soloed the Thearlaich-Dubh gap (?), which is quite something as it's a notorious thrutch (especially if damp), but is a different kind of thing from what you'll encounter on SB.

As I've tried to point out in the report, it's probably not a good idea to approach SB on the assumption that this will be a typical VDiff experience. The comments in the UKC logbooks bear that out. Plus, the grading of SB is a moot point. UKC gives it Severe. Bearing in mind that it was chilly and a bit damp on the upper part when we did it, I thought the top pitch was technically more difficult than the crux of Bowfell Buttress (which I've soloed many times). The latter, traditionally graded VDiff, is now graded Hard Severe. On that basis, the top pitch of SB is at least Hard Severe! However, I don't think BB is Hard Severe. Personally, I'd give it Mild Severe, and I'd give SB the same grade. But that takes into account that pitch 6 is well protected for the leader, so there'll be a big difference between leading it and soloing it. That's a shame really, since there's much less difference between leading and soloing the lower part of the climb (up to pitch 3).

If you're used to dealing with loose rock (testing holds before using them), as on the Cyfrwy Arete, then that might be less of an issue. However, I thought the top-out of pitch 5 was precarious and I was pleased to have a good nut placement just below. Again, though, the dampness will have made it feel that bit more precarious. So the obvious advice would be to wait for a warm, dry spell in summer before attempting a solo. Not that I would ever actively encourage anyone, even an experienced climber, to solo any rock climb. For let's be quite clear about it, soloing rock climbs, even relatively easy ones, is a very dangerous thing to do. Bear in mind that on a long climb, it only takes one move to stop you, and you could find yourself in big trouble. No doubt you'd carry a rope and a few slings with you, just in case you needed to bail out; on SB you'd have to be very careful with anchor points though. Having said that, it did appear to us that it might have been possible to avoid the final two pitches by a continuation of the rake up to the right. I can't be sure of that though, so I wouldn't bank on it.

In conclusion, I don't think it's necessarily crazy to think of soloing SB, but I do think a much more sensible idea is to climb it with a partner, rope and gear first, so you can experience for yourself exactly what you'd be letting yourself in for. I couldn't possibly encourage you to solo a big climb you've never done before whose grade is so debatable. I do understand your case though. If only SB were really suitable as a solo, what a brilliant day out it would make when combined with a long walk around the tops!

Thanks again for your comments mate. I'm really heartened by your interest in the climb I've described, and I hope you do get the chance to do it sometime - safely!

[Alteknacker]

Many thanks for your thorough and comprehensive response to my query, Dav.

I've now done a bit of reading and memory refreshing. I'd forgotten that the Parson's Nose is graded Diff, rather than V Diff., and I was really thinking that the climbs I mentioned were V Diff (except the TD Gap). I didn't find the Cyfrwy Direct route too bad, but then the rock seemed reasonably good, and no gardening is necessary!

Anyway, my conclusion after reflecting on your comments is that it's probably a step too far on to the wrong side of risk. Still, it got me digging out my LD books - Stephen Goodwin, and Jon Sparks and Judith Brown - so once my shoulder's recovered enough (end of next summer), I think I'll be trying a few simpler routes from these books.

Ref your other questions:
I don't have a climbing partner, so that option isn't really open.
I do take rope and gear, but that's really for emergencies.
Yes, I have soloed the TD Gap (twice), but that's really quite contained - it felt to me like you'd have to work quite hard to fall while climbing it. I'm sure you're right when you say it's a different thing to SB. BTW I haven't soloed Naismith's Route.

Finally, do please keep writing up your climbs!

Thanks again for the advice.

[Guinessman]

Excellent trip and report Dav of one of the quieter corners of the Lakes. Though I've never explored that coire I've descended a few times from Pillar when time was pressing, into the coire when doing winter rounds from Gatesgarth and always been struck by the magnificence of the whole coire. It is arguably the one place in the Lakes like a highland coire.

[dav2930]

Excellent trip and report Dav of one of the quieter corners of the Lakes. Though I've never explored that coire I've descended a few times from Pillar when time was pressing, into the coire when doing winter rounds from Gatesgarth and always been struck by the magnificence of the whole coire. It is arguably the one place in the Lakes like a highland coire.

Thanks GM. I agree, Mirk Cove is probably the nearest thing the LD has to a Highland coire and is certainly one of the finest corries in the Lakes - well worth exploring. This trip was the first time I'd actually been in it. It'd be fab for a wild camp.

[Chris Henshall]

Stumbled across this when I should have been doing other things and really enjoyed the read; thanks for posting, albeit a few years ago now. I have never been into Mirk Cove but, like you, I remember reading Harry Griffin's books and seem to recall that he mentions in one of them ("In Mountain Lakeland"?) that a couple of guys spent some time camping in Mirk Cove and exploring the routes there; very likely that they were the first ascensionists of the buttress in 1957.
At any rate, I'll make an effort to get to Mirk Cove at some point in the not too distant future; possibly shared with some more exploration of the north side of Pillar (Great Doup, Hind Cove, etc.) in the course of a long summer day. In the meantime, off to dig out "In Mountain Lakeland" and see if I can find the reference!

[dav2930]

Thanks very much Chris, glad you enjoyed this report! Nice to know that you too have been inspired by Harry Griffin's books; they were quite formative for me. I remember In Mountain Lakeland being one of my favourites, but I don't actually own a copy - must have a rummage in a second-hand book shop sometime.

Mirk Cove is wonderfully wild and remote and well worth exploring. Sounds a great idea to combine this with a look at the north side of Pillar, which is magnificent. Last time we were there we climbed on the rock; we did North West Climb on the Low Man and had intended to descend the Old West to do Rib and Slab up the west face of High Man, but at the top of Low Man the mist came in, it turned distinctly chilly and the time was getting on, so we just headed straight up the Old West to the top of High Man, then abseiled into Jordan Gap. We'd strategically left our boots and sacks at the neck behind Pisgah, so we could continue up to Pillar summit and back down to Wasdale Head. We didn't quite achieve our whole objective, then, but we had a great day out all the same, and still have Rib and Slab to do! There are so many fantastic adventures awaiting in this area!

[Chris Henshall]

Dav,
Thanks for responding so swiftly! I went and had a look at "In Mountain Lakeland" (bought, my notes inside the front cover say, in Grasmere on a family camping holiday in 1974) and couldn't find anything but then found the quote in "The Roof of England" - which, shamefully, the inside front cover tells me was stolen from my school library in, I'd guess, 1975 or 76...
That aside, published in 1968, Harry Griffin wrote, "Some years before the last war three or four climbers spent eleven days camping in Wind Gap or rather in the cove just below the col on the Ennerdale side and produced about a dozen new climbs on Black Crag, the fine precipice just to the east of Steeple. Wind Gap Cove is a fine, upland corrie ringed by a half mile circuit of crags. This is real mountain country and it is only one of a whole series of coves that flank the Ennerdale side of the Pillar range. Mirk Cove, separating Steeple from Scoat Fell, is perhaps the finest of them..."
I notice that Black Crag, these days, only has seven routes listed on UKC (and one of them is an E1 unlikely to have been climbed, as Harry Griffin had it, "before the last war"). I also notice that Steeple Buttress is now given Severe on UKC - but all trad routes seem to get upgraded these days!
Anyway, mountaineering days like the one you describe are superb. I've managed a grand total of five climbing trips to Pillar over the years (including a memorable outing taking my son and two of his mates up the Slab and Notch with a rope which was about ten feet too short for comfort!) and I took four students up Great Gable by various combinations of Napes Needle, Needle Ridge and Eagle's Nest Direct in early July this year. Time well spent!
Off to Portland for a few days sport climbing tomorrow - very different - to see if I can still crank out 7a in my mid-60s. I suspect that the answer will probably be no - at least clean - but I still value those skills which I first picked up in the Lakes in the early 70s.