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Raasay adventuresTuesday 17th July 201822.7km
1806m ascent
7 hours 21 mins
I packed everything into my large pack and had a late start to let the weather clear. Parking up at Morvich I set off down the road and picked up the path heading for Gleann Choinneachain. I could see A’ Ghlas-Bheinn ahead
Coming around the corner I could see the ridge leading up to Beinn Fhada
And the Beinn Fhada ridges – on another occasion I’m going to go and explore them, they look amazing
I followed the zigzags up to where the path split before dumping my bag for the out-and-back to A’ Ghlas-Bheinn. Normally I don’t like an out and back, but I figured seeing as I was here anyway…. I felt like I was floating as I followed the path up to bealach an Sgairne which gave me a view down to Loch a’ Bhealaich
Wow that ridge….although I wasn’t hugely thrilled about how dark the sky was looking, especially as I’d left my waterproofs in my pack
I made easy progress upwards from the bealach – there was a clear path the whole way and although there were steep sections it was easy going. Unfortunately the weather started to come in…
It was spitting with rain but fortunately it didn’t come to much. Reaching the summit it was pretty windy and wild but at least I had something of a view!
I met the person ahead of me who turned out to be running the Ratagan Youth Hostel! She headed off in the opposite direction while I decided to wait a few minutes to see if it improved
The weather did clear a bit and I was able to see down to Morvich and out towards Beinn Sgritheall
Beinn Fhada
I headed back down and was able to see the corries of Beinn Fhada and my route ahead
Loch a’ Bhealaich and Beinn Fhada
Looking over Sgurr an Airgid to Skye
Beinn Fhada ridge
Beinn Fhada again
Loch a’ Chleirich
Looking back up to A’ Ghlas-Bheinn
The sun came out and was hitting the Fhada ridge and made it look even more awesome
Loch a’ Bhealaich, Sgurr Gaorsaic and Sgurr nan Ceathramhann
Back at the bealach it was an easy wander back to my pack. Putting it back on significantly slowed progress as I started towards Beinn Fhada
The path climbed up gradually into Coire an Sgairne – looking backwards
Climbing out the top of the coire I could see the ridge from a different angle
I could see across to the Sister’s ridge – this was what I had in store for tomorrow
It was turning into a wonderful evening
At last – summit ahoy!
A’ Ghlas-Bheinn
This is my route down
I had been feeling the weight of the heavy pack and was very relieved to take it off
Kintail is awesome
The Sister’s ridge with the Forcan behind
After a wee breather I set off again – following the ridge towards Sgurr a’ Dubh Doire before dropping off the side far too early
At least the views were good towards Ciste Dubh
The Sister’s ridge
It was an awkward and very steep descent from the ridge but I was very glad of the dry conditions – after rain this would have been a bog trot and slippery enough to send me flying
Down in the glen I reached the path which would at least be an easy walk along to Camban bothy, my home for the night.
I had a lovely evening, initially on my own before being joined by two cyclists who were cycling the
HT550 for the RAF100. Their story is
here. They were good chat and also offered me caramel waffles which I could hardly turn down especially as I was doing them a favour – less weight to carry the next day
Wednesday 18th July 201823.65km
1887m ascent
11 hours 15 mins
Camban bothy was a fabulous bothy in a lovely location. I had a great night’s sleep and good breakfast before heading out. I followed the track a little way back before cutting off to head up the Sreath a’ Ghlas-choire ridge onto Sgurr a’ Bhealaich Dheirg.
Looking back to Camban
It was steep going as I climbed higher – again mercifully dry
Looking back down Gleann Lichd – there was a wee bit of clag on the hills as forecast
Glen Affric
Glen Affric and the South Mullardoch hills
Am Bathach and Aonach Meadhoin, the first brother
I was finally on the ridge for real – this made for some easier walking
Ciste Dubh and Am Bathach with A’ Chrailleag starting to pop out behind
Looking ahead – the ridge for real
It looked awesome! I had decided that this sounded better than Ciste Dubh and the extra brother. I was beginning to think that I had made the correct decision
I could drop off the ridge and traverse around to the bealach so I was good as long as I didn’t go up anything I couldn’t come back down
Aonach Meadhoin – brother number one. Never leave a brother behind? Mebbe it would be ok on this occasion
The ridge was awesome – damp grass and the big pack made for a few awkward moments but I had such a good time on it
Nearly at the top I looked back to what I’d just come up
The final stretch to the summit of Sgurr a’ Bhealaich Dheirg
Aonach Meadhoin – a brother for another day
I did it
Looking back to the summit of Sgurr a’ Bhealaich Dheirg
Looking down towards Morvich – Beinn Fhada on the right, my route ahead on the left
The South Glen Shiel Ridge and the continuation of my ridge
It was a wee bit chilly so after a quick breather I was on my way – looking back to the ridge I’d just come up
Glen Affric
Onwards – Sgurr a’ Bhealaich Dearg had a second top
Another view of the ascent ridge, as well as Mullach Fraoch-choire behind
Ahead to Saileag
On top of Saileag I could see ahead to the Sisters – they looked pretty formidable
Ciste Dubh, Mullach Fraoch-Choire and A’ Chralaig
Jaxter on Saileag
The Forcan and Sisters ahead
South Glen Shiel Ridge and Sisters
I was approaching my only real bail-out option for today – dropping down from bealach an Lapain in between the two ridges. Once I started on the Sisters I had to finish
I don’t back down, and the bail-out was never really an option
As I started up the sisters ridge I looked backwards – it all looked very impressive and the cloud seemed to have cleared to turn it into a lovely day
The ridge narrowed and seemed to be harder work already – makes sense that the Sisters would be harder work than the Brothers
Looking back to the South Shiel ridge
Looking ahead
Ahead to Sgurr naa Spainteach and Sgurr na Ciste Dubh
Suddenly I heard a roar…and a couple of planes fly over from Glen Affric
Over Sgurr nan Spainteach there was a descent including a very awkward scramble for a short person with a big bag
which I ended up having to throw poles down and downclimb backwards which I hate doing
And then it was time for the final climb up to Sgurr na Ciste Dubh where I was rewarded with views of Skye
Looking back along the ridge – I’d come a long way!
South ridge
Time for a sit-down and a sandwich – I’d promised to reward myself with lunch on this summit
I was joined by a man going in the other direction and it was nice to have someone to chat to as we both ate and enjoyed the views
Ahead to Sgurr na Carnach
Skye was now completely clear and the sun was hitting the Cuillin ridge
And in the other direction – Ben Nevis
Sgurr na Sgine, the Forcan Ridge and Beinn Sgritheall behind
Doing my thing on Sgurr na Ciste Dubh
Forcan Ridge and Skye
I had a long way to go still so I carried on along the ridge, dropping down easily to the bealach. I met a group of people coming the other way who seemed very concerned that I was on my own
It was an easy climb and before long I was at the summit of Sgurr na Carnach which gave me wonderful views down Loch Duich
From Nevis to Knoydart
Forcan
Looking down the glen
Beinn Sgritheall and Skye
Sgurr na Carnach summit
As I stood enjoying the views I was joined by a couple running – they were going fast and light, the opposite to me
They headed off quickly while I used the views as an excuse for a break
Looking back to previous Sisters
My route so far
Dropping off Sgurr na Carnach there was some amazing sunlight hitting the sisters
It was a slow and steep climb to the top of Sgurr Fhuaran – but at least this was the final ascent, right
Finally at the top it was definitely time to enjoy the views. The clarity had been improving all day and it was really awesome now
Looking out to Loch Alsh
Three islands – Eigg, Rum and Skye
Looking down Gleann Lichd
Previous Sisters
The whole ridge
This ridge down to Gleann Lichd looks great – a good approach for another time
The views just kept improving
Applecross corbetts
Looking back
Sgurr Fhuaran summit
Sgurr nan Saighead and the continuation of the ridge
I dropped down from Sgurr Fhuaran and realised that my ascent wasn’t over for the day
I would also have to go over Sgurr nan Saighead as well
Looking back I had a good laugh at the phallic nature of this rock
Looking back to Sgurr Fhuaran
Skyyyyyyye
The path actually bypassed the summit of Sgurr na Saighead, but having got this close I decided I wanted to get to the top, so dumped my pack for a wee diversion. Might as well mount another sister
From there I headed downwards – there was a good path which did get fainter as it became more grassy
It got very steep and the long walk and heavy pack were starting to take their toll on my knees
It was getting hotter and hotter too
Fortunately the burn was low enough to get across but had enough for a drink – there was no water on the ridge!
Now on the path it was easier walking down the glen until the final knee-crunching descent to Morvich. I thought it would never end
Back at ground level I still had a couple of kilometres along the road back to Morvich
A’ Ghlas-Bheinn – where it all began
Back at the car I drove down the road and slept like a log
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