Our previous walk a few months back involved a first proper Southern Uplands hike for Iain as we "enjoyed"
a long, tough day on Hart Fell and White Coomb. I suspect this walk may have slightly broken Iain due to involving a lot of grassy slopes with no paths and little in the way of rocks to climb. When I received a text during the week showing sunshine in Glen Coe all Saturday with the suggestion of heading for Bidean nam Bian it became apparent that there was a requirement for the big rocky peaks so that Iain could find his mountain mojo again! 
I couldn't agree with this choice quickly enough, it was a "hill" only in the loosest sense, it's more a mountain range, a behemoth full of nooks and crannies to explore, a varied and bulky brute of rock that just entices and entrances you. That's how I felt anyway and I was dying to get up there for the first time, perhaps it was my MacDonald blood and wanting to return to my ancient roots as if guided by some inner memory that had me buzzing about this walk but like Iain I have found myself completely hooked on Glen Coe already.
With winter walking hours now in effect it meant an early start and we left just after 7am. Our usual brekkie stop was closed so we decided it wasn't too far until the Green Welly so it made sense to stop there for a cooked breakfast ahead of a big day out and the pit stop duly delivered.
Beinn Dorain, the Black Mount and Ranoch Moor were looking glorious on the drive up as was Buachaille Etifve Mor and Curved Ridge which we loved climbing at the end of June, leading to the now usual quotes of "I still can't believe we climbed up that way" as we drove past.
As we approached the car park for Bidean nam Bian it towered above us as the excitement built and I had the luxury of being a passenger so took a first shot of the giant mountain of mountains...
DSC_0001.1 20181117_093227 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWe found a space and saddled up. Iain said he wanted to go up the lost valley as he didn't fancy descending that way if we were going to end up coming off the hill in the dark. I didn't care what way we went, just let me at it!
DSC_0001.3 by Chris Mac, on Flickr
DSC_0002.2 by Chris Mac, on FlickrLooking west up Glen Coe as we walk towards the Lost Valley:
DSC_0002.4 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThe rays of the morning sun were coming from the Black Mount direction making it a scenic start to the walk. Lost Valley up ahead, home turf for this MacDonald, no cows in tow but i'm a Taurus so that will do!
DSC_0002.6 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWe follow the good path towards the bridge that crosses the River Coe, Beinn Fhada, Gearr Aonach and Aonach Dubh making us feel insignificant on the way while also enticing me with scrambling routes to be explored another day:
DSC_0002.7 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWe're soon heading uphill and into the steep sided valley:
DSC_0003.6 by Chris Mac, on FlickrIt ws like entering another world...
DSC_0003.9 by Chris Mac, on FlickrFinding our way through the maze of boulders and trees, no wonder Iain doesn't fancy this as a potential walk out in the dark but i'm more than happy with the choice to hike clockwise and start with the hidden den of my ancestors. It would also prove to be an inspired decision later on...
DSC_0004.5 by Chris Mac, on FlickrSome more hands-on action early on:
DSC_0004.9 by Chris Mac, on FlickrOn the right as you ascend the valley the massive rockfall that covers the valley floor looks immense, imagine being up on the ridge whenever that happened...
DSC_0005.0 by Chris Mac, on FlickrStob Coire Sgreamhach comes into view again, having first been seen from the road, looking lovely in the morning light which has been illuminating the ridge tops:
DSC_0005.3 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWe start heading down onto the large flat valley floor as three walkers can be seen heading our way:
DSC_0005.9 by Chris Mac, on FlickrLooking back down the Lost Valley:
DSC_0005.94 by Chris Mac, on FlickrContinuing up the valley we start to follow a path on the left then have to cross the Allt Coire Gabhail:
DSC_0009 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThis part should be fun I thought and it certainly would be... instead of taking the path higher up the valley on the right we headed along the lower path following the Allt which made for a much more scenic route and involved some hairy paths, steep gorges and mild scrambling next to ravines, exciting stuff!
DSC_0016 by Chris Mac, on FlickrNote the faint path on the right:
DSC_0031 by Chris Mac, on Flickr
DSC_0034 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWe have to head down and cross the water before climbing up back onto the path:
DSC_0042 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWe pressed on up the rocky path, stopping for the occasional quick breather and water intake. We were romping uphill in good time even if Iain was a bit out of practice. He then started getting excited and babbling on about potential Brocken spectres on seeing some mist building higher up...
DSC_0062 by Chris Mac, on FlickrAt last the summit of Bidean nam Bian comes into view as Iain is getting flights of fancy, saying that if we get a cloud inversion and golden eagle sighting too then it might turn out to be the best walk ever...
DSC_0065 by Chris Mac, on FlickrI can just picture the Spaniard (Sean) having a sword fight on these steps...
DSC_0082 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThe final section is quite steep and rocky with more scrambling so we were in our element:
DSC_0091 by Chris Mac, on FlickrLooking back down the Lost Valley, quite a way we've come so far. Mountain peak shadows and sunlight are already making the scenery memorable with Stob Coire nan Lochan on one side and Beinn Fhada on the other:
DSC_0122 by Chris Mac, on FlickrAlmost there... in the red jacket a Polish sounding guy came down towards us and we chatted briefly. He was absolutely loving his day out so far and was on his way to meet a friend and do Ben Nevis tomorrow, very excited about the promise of a view from the top as it owed him... that sounded familiar!
DSC_0138 by Chris Mac, on FlickrFunnily enough we'd meet two older gentlemen later on who had compleated and were now bagging hills that owed them a view, turns out i'm not the only one that has a list of them!
We scramble up some loose scree on the final section before turning left and heading up the eroded cleft/gulley/path onto the top of Bealach Dearg. The view takes our breath away, or maybe it was the climb, so we stop and gawp while chatting to another walker who is sitting having a break.
The views will be even better from further up so it's a quick ascent up the rocky path to Stob Coire Sgreamhach, a bonus shot of Beinn Sgulaird, Beinn Fhionnlaidh and Sgorr na h-Ulaidh on the way:
DSC_0209 by Chris Mac, on FlickrStob Coire nan Lochan, Aonach Eagach and Ben Nevis to the north:
DSC_0218 by Chris Mac, on FlickrStob Coire Sgreamhach summit looking north east:
DSC_0234 by Chris Mac, on FlickrIain catching up, Fraochaidh, Beinn a' Bheithir and Bidean nam Bian to the west:
DSC_0242 by Chris Mac, on FlickrGlen Etive, Lochan ure, Beinn Starav, Ben Cruachan, Loch Etive, Beinn Trilleachan and the view south, absolutely stunning!
DSC_0251 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThe view east isn't bad either, looking down Beinn Fhada with the two Buachaille's:
DSC_0258 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThe Black Mount Munros with the Great Wall of Rannoch and Crianlarich Munros in the background:
DSC_0263 by Chris Mac, on FlickrAnyone walking in this area today is bound to have had a cracking day out although further south and east is shrouded in clouds...
DSC_0266 by Chris Mac, on FlickrStob Gabhar looks a fine mountain, Beinn an Dothaidh, Beinn Dorain, Stob Binnein and Cruach Ardrain amongst the peaks visible in the background:
DSC_0268 by Chris Mac, on FlickrLoch Etive:
DSC_0275 by Chris Mac, on FlickrTime for a summit video from Stob Coire Sgreamhach.
Looking south west:
DSC_0289 by Chris Mac, on FlickrOur route ahead:
DSC_0299 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThe summit was quite busy now as other walkers appeared from the three ridges that terminate at the summit:
DSC_0301 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWe dropped a bit lower down and sat to enjoy a well earned lunch break:
DSC_0308 by Chris Mac, on FlickrAs we finished then walked over and looked down to the Lost Valley Iain suddenly took off down the hillside...
DSC_0346 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThat's not mist it's dust as he speeds downhill!
DSC_0358 by Chris Mac, on FlickrHe said conditions were ripe for a Brocken spectre and sure enough as we went further down it happened!
DSC_0361 by Chris Mac, on FlickrFantastic and a first for me:
DSC_0366 by Chris Mac, on FlickrI watched and waved at my shadow projected across onto Stob Coire nan Lochan, observing how more mist made it and my rainbow halo stronger:
DSC_0371 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThis isn't Iain's spectre it's mine, Iain was seeing one of himself but it looks good:
DSC_0377 by Chris Mac, on FlickrIt did also occur to us that we had a mini cloud inversion to the north..."just a Golden Eagle next and we've got the set!"
DSC_0385 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWaving at my spectre:
DSC_0394 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWe kept on down the hillside and the spectres followed across in the shadow world...
DSC_0399 by Chris Mac, on FlickrIt's a shame people down in the valley can't see this projected from where they are:
DSC_0400 by Chris Mac, on FlickrI took a video of the Brocken spectre and it would be a constant companion all the way along from one Munro to the other, common as muck.
Having had our fun it was time to continue along to Bidean nam Bian:
DSC_0407 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWe reach Bealach Dearg again and begin the ascent:
DSC_0430 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThe mist was still coming and going below us as the sun warmed one side of the hillside while making the other mysterious, dark and foreboding down below in the Lost Valley. If you want one mountain walk that has enough scenery and variety to make you think you are in a Lord of the Rings film or Highlander then this is it:
DSC_0437 by Chris Mac, on FlickrCairns on the way:
DSC_0448 by Chris Mac, on FlickrIain walking in the clouds. the mist that had been slowly building on Stob Dearg in the background developed into a full blown cloud hat and would remain there for the rest of the walk, not good for anyone heading up Curved Ridge today!
DSC_0452 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWe were treated to more Brocken spectre's en route, Bidean seems well suited to them if conditions are right around this time of year, we might have to make this an annual pilgrimmage:
DSC_0459 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWe've lost count now and there would be more to come!
DSC_0466 by Chris Mac, on FlickrAlmost there...
DSC_0467 by Chris Mac, on FlickrSummit up ahead as some walkers ascend from the northern ridge and the view north west opens up:
DSC_0489 by Chris Mac, on FlickrBidean nam Bian summit ridge in shadow against Stob Coire nan Lochan, our way back down but not until we've had a well earned break and taken more photos and videos:
DSC_0492 by Chris Mac, on FlickrFinal section:
DSC_0498 by Chris Mac, on FlickrBoth the sun and ourselves had moved further west so now the reflections were lighting up Loch Etive, it was beautiful and everyone seemed to be enjoying it:
DSC_0512 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWe chatted to a few people about seeing Brocken spectres all the way along the ridge and they replied that a few other people had excitedly said the same thing to them and I said the chances are they will see them too if they head down that way.
Bidean nam Bian also owed Iain a view, he'd been up it twice before in limited visiblity, he couldn't have picked a better day for the hill to make amends:
DSC_0513 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThe summit was fairly small and rocky with a few people already snacking around the cairn so we decide to head along to the neighbouring mound further west for a better view:
DSC_0530 by Chris Mac, on Flickr
DSC_0561 by Chris Mac, on FlickrMost of the west coast of Scotland, what a viewpoint...
DSC_0569 by Chris Mac, on FlickrMull bathed in later afternoon light to the south west:
DSC_0572 by Chris Mac, on FlickrTo the north west we can make out Skye, superb!
DSC_0574 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThis was only our second break other than lunch on Stob Coire Sgreamhach so we soaked in the view and discussed options. Iain was also on a summit camp recce and really wanted to stay for sunset but was being realistic.
We got chatting to the two older gents who were heading further along to bag Stob Coire nam Beith. We thought about it and decided we'd be cutting it a bit fine, the gut said we were more than satisfied with our walk so far and it might be time to start thinking about heading home even if we did want to just move in permanently and become pals with the ravens.
Our route out back to Bidean's summit then down the ridge to the Munro top Stob Coire nan Lochan:
DSC_0587 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThe two gents heading along the ridge:
DSC_0592 by Chris Mac, on Flickr
DSC_0598 by Chris Mac, on FlickrBack at Bidean nam Bian summit, one final shot south, Ben Lui far left, Mull far right and a whole load of hiking inbetween:
DSC_0612 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThe ridge down to Stob Coire nan Lochan was steep and rocky so progress was rapid and we were soon ascending again:
DSC_0645 by Chris Mac, on Flickr
DSC_0647 by Chris Mac, on FlickrIt looks worse from this angle but presents no problems:
DSC_0656 by Chris Mac, on FlickrSummit shots from the Munro top, mini-sort-of-cloud-inversion closing in from the east:
DSC_0662 by Chris Mac, on FlickrStob Coire Sgreamhach in shadow:
DSC_0664 by Chris Mac, on FlickrA couple of walkers heading up the ridge between the two Munros with the Munros to the south east showing off in the late afternoon light, wow!
DSC_0675 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWe could see some of the route down but were in no hurry to leave the summit as an approaching sunset was improving visibility and conditions with every passing moment:
DSC_0677 by Chris Mac, on FlickrTalk about an airy perch... looking down on the car park from Stob Coire nan Lochan, maybe not a summit for vertigo sufferers!
DSC_0680 by Chris Mac, on FlickrBen Nevis, the Mamores and Aonach Eagach are now a lot clearer than earlier and continuing to impress and dominate the view north:
DSC_0684 by Chris Mac, on FlickrIt was silhouette time looking south:
DSC_0689 by Chris Mac, on FlickrIs that the same two guys on the other Munro top?!
DSC_0710 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWe decide to head off again only to be met with another wall of mist escaping from Coire nan Lochan this time, there goes even more visibility for the section with the least path, curse our timing...
DSC_0732 by Chris Mac, on FlickrIt quickly dawned on us though... "hmmm looking at the angles and where both the sun and ourselves have moved to... we're in a prime Brocken spectre position again!"
DSC_0733 by Chris Mac, on Flickr
DSC_0735 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThe scenery was very dramatic as crags and cliffs dropped away below us with mist rising up and shadows projecting in front of us:
DSC_0736 by Chris Mac, on Flickr
DSC_0738 by Chris Mac, on FlickrSunset was continuing to dance across the hillsides to the west:
DSC_0739 by Chris Mac, on FlickrGetting ready to meet our spectres...
DSC_0741 by Chris Mac, on FlickrI was alerted to movement to my left, we had disturbed a Ptarmigan, unfortunately without any snow at all on the hill. At least I finally got to see the transition stage between summer and winter coat as the grey speckles on the top help it to blend in with the rocks, impressive:
DSC_0745 by Chris Mac, on FlickrA panorama of Iain in his element:
DSC_0750 20181117_145841 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThen it happened again, we reached the optimum position on the ridge and our Brocken spectres returned to say cheerio!
DSC_0754 by Chris Mac, on FlickrBoth our shadows in this one:
DSC_0755 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThis is probably the clearest shot I got, brilliant, although if i'm being perfectly honest and having had them for most of the high level ridge walk we were taking it for granted a bit now... apologies to those that haven't experienced one yet!
DSC_0762 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWhat a way to finish the ridge!
DSC_0769 by Chris Mac, on FlickrOk excitement over again, now the fun part, some mist navigation down in Coire nan Lochan...
DSC_0772 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThat was just one side though, sunset was still working its magic to the west on our left hand side:
DSC_0776 by Chris Mac, on FlickrMull and Fraochaidh in sunset:
DSC_0781 by Chris Mac, on FlickrBy now we felt as if we were onto the third and final Lord of the Rings film...
DSC_0788 by Chris Mac, on FlickrRoute navigation on the phone would soon be required:
DSC_0791 by Chris Mac, on FlickrBut not before Iain raced off again!
DSC_0792 by Chris Mac, on FlickrStill chasing that final final Brocken spectre, or the cursed Golden Eagle that we were now jesting had ruined this perfect walk due to being a no-show!
DSC_0795 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWe was now misty, murky and boggy, why on earth did we leave the ridge for this?!
As we followed my route, luckily my phone still had loads of battery power due to staying in flight mode while track recording, we found and followed faint traces of path through the mini-lochans and large puddles. Iain then did an expert "skiter" slipping on an easy stretch of grass but managed to hold himself up on all fours like he was playing twister, saving a wet behind from ruining the return of his mountain mojo!
well saved!I chanced a look up at the mist and it started to clear.... revealing the jagged peaks and crags of Stob Coire nan Lochan and Pinnacle Ridge... I pointed up and gasped as Iain did the same and said wow!
DSC_0801 by Chris Mac, on FlickrIt's like Mordor said Iain, a phrase i've used myself on more than one occasion:
DSC_0802 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWe were soon lower down and the mist was starting to clear:
DSC_0804 by Chris Mac, on FlickrIt's an easy direct line back to the finish now... just the small matter of 2000 feet to descend in just 2.5km! Well it shouldn't take these two auld mountain goats long.
DSC_0808 by Chris Mac, on FlickrGearr Aonach on our right as we make our way down the path, glad to be out of the bogs of Mordor:
DSC_0813 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThe walk down is also stunning on the walk that just keeps on giving as we pass more waterfalls, this massif has plenty in every nook and cranny:
DSC_0818 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThe last of the sunlight now hitting Am Bodach on Aonach Eagach:
DSC_0823 by Chris Mac, on FlickrMore waterfalls:
DSC_0832 by Chris Mac, on FlickrMunro top peeking through, it wasn't that long ago that we were all the way up there:
DSC_0848 by Chris Mac, on FlickrOn the way down we agree that this has easily been one of the best walks of the year, just pipped by Curved Ridge and Buachaille Etive Mor at the end of June, easily more enjoyable than our memorable blizzard adventure on Ben Ledi in February and definitely not half as scary as being chased of Meall an t-Seallaidh by lightning!
DSC_0855 by Chris Mac, on FlickrA final video heading down Coire nan Lochan.
Sunset on Aonach Eagach:
DSC_0860 by Chris Mac, on FlickrThe ridge turning red:
DSC_0867 by Chris Mac, on FlickrRiver Coe:
DSC_0880 by Chris Mac, on FlickrIt looked like our timing had been impeccable as we approached the car park with twilight now in full effect as Bidean nam Bian grew more dark and foreboding behind us:
DSC_0889 by Chris Mac, on FlickrWe made it back to the van in 6 and a half hours which was pretty good going although at the end of the final descent my legs wobbled like jelly for a short while due to the steep descent at our usual pace. As the last light faded Iain drove to Ballachulish where we had coffee with a friend before heading back home. As we passed through Glen Coe again in the pitch black the silhouettes of Bidean nam Bian, Stob Coire Raineach and Stob Dearg all stood out, just, in the faint moonlight and it was a fitting end to one of the most spectacular days we've had on the mountains.
Still, no fecking Golden Eagle...!
