free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
Our day on Ben Lui had brought Karl and myself late back to the Corran Bunkhouse where we were staying. We didn't relish preparing for an early start the next morning, but, on the other hand, the forecast was quite good and we didn't want to miss an opportunity. As it turned out, it was sleeting quite heavily, so we used this as a convenient excuse to have a rest day
We went to Ballachulish for coffee and cakes, then on to the Ice Factor at Kinlochleven, where we amused ourselves on the climbing wall, consumed copious mugs of tea, and checked out the forecast for Thursday 31st. The staff at the desk helpfully offered to print out an update for us. We could hardly believe our eyes as we scanned it: no precipitation, 20 - 25 mph winds on summits, 90% chance of cloud-free Munros!
Couldn't ask for better than that. However, with a considerable build-up of fresh snow, we knew that whatever we did was going to be hard work. Our safest bet, and best chance of getting anywhere, would be to keep to the ridges as much as possible, so we decided on the Mamores - Binnean Mor and Na Gruagaichean, starting from Kinlochleven. We may well be defeated by the sheer exhaustion of endless wading, but given the forecast, it was worth giving it a go.
Next morning we were up at 6.00. Quick breakfast while the car defrosted and we were off to Kinlochleven again, just a short drive away. We parked at the MacDonald Hotel and set off walking by 7.40. The sky was virtually cloudless, but surprisingly there was a brisk breeze. Our chosen approach, up the West Highland Way then along the road to Mamore Lodge, was a bit counter-intuitive, since it begins in the wrong direction and is a lot longer than the path leading directly towards Loch Eilde Mor. But from previous experience we knew the latter to be badly eroded and a bit of a slog. Whether our circuitous evasion was worth it remains a moot point, I guess. Anyway, the snow on the Lodge road had been compacted by the passage of vehicles, and two or three 4x4's passed us as we walked along. The rosy glow of the morning sun began to creep onto the mountain tops.
![DSC04032.JPG]()
- Morning sun on Am Bodach
Eventually all the vehicle tracks stopped and we ploughed our way through the virgin snow, following the line of the buried road. At the high point of the road, the path to Coire an Lochain and the eastern Mamores goes off the left. We were looking out for it, but of course it was nowhere to be seen under the thick blanket of snow, and the only footprints to be seen were our own. So we forged our own route. This was where the hard work started!
![DSC04035.JPG]()
- Deep snow leading to Sgor Eilde Beag
We were glad when we reached the burn, as the path on the far side of it was visible, as was the distinctive diagonal rise to the shoulder of Sgor Eilde Beag beyond it. The going was least arduous on the wind-blown raised parts, where the underlying vegetation poked through. Elsewhere we were wading up to our thighs. It was slow, hard going.
![DSC04036.JPG]()
- At the Allt Coire nan Laogh, looking south to Buachaille Etive Mor.
But the views were so breathtaking that the effort hardly seemed to matter.
![DSC04039.JPG]()
- Loch Eilde Mor and Rannoch Moor
Eventually we reached the end of the rising traverse path and it was time to hit the steep slopes of Sgor Eilde Beag. The steepness made for even harder work. It was certainly a relief when the gradient eased off and we reached the top. And again, the views made it all worthwhile.
![DSC04044.JPG]()
- Sgurr Eilde Mor from Sgor Eilde Beag
![DSC04049.JPG]()
- South-east from Sgor Eilde Beag
![DSC04050.JPG]()
- Karl on Sgor Eilde Beag, the Glencoe peaks behind.
![DSC04052.JPG]()
- Zoom in on Glencoe peaks
![DSC04053.JPG]()
- Na Gruagaichean
![DSC04055.JPG]()
- Buachaille Etive Mor and the Black Mount
It was realtively easy going from Sgor Eilde Beag to the south top Binnein Mor, which we reached at about 12.40pm. The views now opened out to the north.
![DSC04058.JPG]()
- Ben Nevis from the south top of Binnein Mor
![DSC04059.JPG]()
- Binnein Mor from the south top
We left our rucksacks by the cairn on the south top and headed out along the splendid, corniced ridge to Binnein Mor's summit - Karl's 50th Munro. The ridge was too beautiful, interesting and exhilarating to feel like hard work.
![DSC04060.JPG]()
- BM south top and the ridge to Na Gruagaichean, from summit of Binnein Mor
![DSC04062.JPG]()
- Sgurr Eilde Mor from Binnein Mor
![DSC04063.JPG]()
- Binnein Beag and the Grey Corries, from Binnein Mor
![DSC04064.JPG]()
- The summit ridge of Binnean Mor, looking north
After taking in the incomparable views we followed our own footprints back along the ridge to the south top, where our rucksacks were waiting for us.
![DSC04066.JPG]()
- Ring of Steall
Our next priority was to stop for food and drink. We thought we might find a sheltered spot along the ridge a bit, but the best we could find was in the shade and not very sheltered; with hindsight we'd have been better off stopping at the south top. Not to worry. We had a good view of the ridge up to Na Gruagaichean, and thought it looked narrow and exposed enough to warrant getting our ice axes out - an axe and a pole seemed the best idea.
![DSC04068.JPG]()
- The ridge to Na Gruagaichean
The snow on the ridge was incredibly deep and we sank well up to our thighs. Plunging the shafts of the axes as far down as they would go gave some security, while the poles added a bit of stability. It was very slow, exhausting work, but satisfying too. It was past 3.00pm by the time we reached the summit.
![DSC04069.JPG]()
- Binnein Mor from summit of Na Gruagaichean
![DSC04070.JPG]()
- NW top of Na Gruagaichean from summit
![DSC04071.JPG]()
- Coire a' Bhodaich
The descent to col between the two tops was quite steep, with loose snow on slabby rocks. An awkward and fairly exposed bit near the bottom had us donning our Microspikes. The climb up the other side was quite steep too!
When we reached the NW top, the sun was sinking behind the mountains and the shadows gathering in the corries. We began the descent of the easy west ridge, heading towards the sunset.
![DSC04073.JPG]()
- Sun setting behind Am Bodach
![DSC04077.JPG]()
- Alpenglow on the Grey Corries
From the col we followed the line of the stalker's path, visible under the snow, which cut back sharply into the depths of the corrie. Probably it would have made more sense to have taken a more direct line down into the head of the valley, but we rather slavishly followed the snow-filled path, even when it began rising. The snow here was deeper than ever, a real wading job, which of course was very time-consuming. By the time we got down to the floor of the corrie, the light was fading fast. Fortunately the high albedo of snow meant we could see well enough to get ourselves down to the path in the floor of the valley - though by a much steeper route than we ought to have taken.
Eventually a wooden barn-type structure emerged out of the gloom, signalling the gate that led to the road we'd walked up. Full circle.
Back at the Hotel we had a chat with our mate behind the bar and ordered veggie haggis, neaps and tatties and a Dark Matter rum each, all of which went down remarkably well. We were both knackered, but well pleased with a long and superb day.
