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Saileag was the one munro on the North Glen Sheil ridge that we hadn't visited. On the map it appeared an ideal choice for a winter walk but has proved to be more elusive and challenging than we anticipated
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Our first attempt was in January 2018, starting from the gap in the forestry (see map below) walking east to west, but we were post holing in deep snow from the moment we left the road and realised we were at risk of being benighted so turned back at Sgurr a Bhealaic Dheirg. We had another bash at the end of February 2018 when conditions were leaner, but were foiled by melting cornices on a narrow section of the ridge betweeen the two Munro's.
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For the past year Saileag has been sitting on the list of unfinished business, but with stable snow conditions in Kintail and a good weather forecast it was time to try again! It was well worth the wait!
Our plan was to follow our previous route, starting at the gap in the forestry leading up the sides of Meall a' Charra then head towards the North Glen Sheil Ridge and follow this to Saileag, returning the same way. We didn't anticipate encountering anything too challenging and if conditions were suitable we would take in Sgurr a' Bhealaic Dearg on the way back. Life does always go according to plan!
We arrived in Kintail late in the evening and spent the night in the carpark beneath Bealach na Lapain. Come morning the rucksacks and trekking poles were all out of the van and we were set to go before remembering that we were meant to be driving down the road. There was only one thing to do! change the plan and head straight up to the Bealach. We had previously considered the steep slopes of Bealach na Lapain a potential avalanche risk, but all the SAIS reports suggested that snow conditions were currently very stable, so fingers crossed it would not prove too steep.
- The route.
The start of the walk was surprisingly pleasant, the path weaving backwards and forwards across the burn.
- Lower down on the path to Bealach na Lapin
and one could always stop and admire Faochag across the road.
- Faochag and its more famous neighbours
Rather than heading for the lowest point of the bealach we were aiming for its righthand side so parted ways with the path crossing over the Allt Ach a' Mharc-Olaich. The ground became steeper as we followed the burn upwards and somewhere around 700m altitude the snow became unavoidable. The snow was not deep or hard but there were short sections where the angle of the slope had us daggering with our axes. I was surprised to find that I felt quite comfortable making an ascent in this manner and wondered where my usual escort of squeaking mice had got too. (They must have been lagging behind as they caught up with me later on!).
- Daggering our way up to Bealach na Lapain.
By 10:20 we had reached the ridge, topping out about 70m above the Bealach.
- Topping out onto the ridge
Here the snow was much firmer so crampons were donned. Although cloud was billing around the tops on the South Sheil Ridge we were enjoying almost continuous sunshine and blue skies on our side of the road!
- Saileag ahead
- The Sisters behind us
- South Shiel Ridge over the Road
11:30 and we were standing on Saileag's summit. It's cairn must be very small as it was nowhere in sight! I checked with Viewranger to check we were on the right hump before taking the summit photos.
- Saileag
- Saileag
We are not really hill baggers as such, regarding the route taken as important as the summits, so although ascending via Bealach na Lapain had enabled us to reach Saileag we still had unfinished business with the ridge to Sgurr a Bhealaic Dheirg.
Leaving the summit was easy enough
- Leaving the summit
There were impressive snow formations and cornices
- Impressive cornices
and some fun easy scrambley bits
- Easy scrambley bits
and then came the surprise arete.
The wind had changed direction dramatically in the last day or two and in doing so had blown snow from both directions to form a narrow arete on top of a rocky slab. The snow was firmish, but by no means rock solid and no sign of where the path would normally lie. We edged carefully along, what seemed the least steep side with ice axes plunged to the hilt on the far side of the arete unsure if there was anything solid beneath our feet or not. (Bring on the squeaking mice choir!).
- The arete
- The arete from the other side
It felt far more exposed than it looks in the photo's. I am not sure which was worse, watching my other half edging across or creeping along myself. At least when you are moving the concentration takes president over the anxiety. It was a great relief to reach the other side and breath!
The arete was decidedly the crux of the route but not long after getting our feet back on solid ground we reached a rocky section of ridge.
- Rocky section of ridge
As this is not mentioned in any route descriptions I suspect it is avoidable when not covered in snow. My OH tackled it straight on, with one or two tricky bridging moves, made harder by the crampons.
- Heading for the crest.
I tried traversing underneath the rocks but realised that regaining the ridge was going to be trickier than the top of it so climbed back upsome steep hard snow having just swapped one layer of difficulty for another.
- Emerging from my diversion.
Then with the excitement behind us we were able to enjoy the sheer splendour of the situation
- Looking along the ridge to Saileag
The wind speeds were increasing, and despite numerous attempts we could not catch the spindrift on camera. It did however make a splendid excuse not to totter out to Sgurr a' Bhealaic Dheirg! and to be honest my bravery supply was empty
. So we carried on down,
- On our way down.
enjoying the scenery and the cloud formations
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Feeling in need of nourishment we stopped to brew up, but it was a stop that didn't go well. The stove struggled in the wind and it took ten minutes to boil up some snow! Everything was blowing around and the cold was seeping through my belay jacket.
- An ill fated stop!
Glad to be on the move again and following the route towards Meall a'Charra, I discovered my phone battery was nearly flat, I neglected to put it in airplane mode! No more photos!
Before reaching Meall a Charra we headed down the side of the hill towards the gap in the forestry and on reaching the fence followed the eastern side of the stream down to the road having learnt from past experience that this is the easiest route across the rough ground.
A 3km walk down the road got us back to the van for 17:00.
Saileag may not be the most inspiring munro but in winter the ridge definitely provided us with an exciting day.
We have made something of a project going up and down the individual peaks in Kintail in winter and have found it an excellent area for exciting winter walks with stunning scenery and the added bonus of being able to plan shorter routes to fit the day light hours.