prog99 wrote:That loose hold on pitch 3 was about the only loose hold I can remember on the entire climb - just sod's law that it was right at the crux!
I think its been loose for ages! Time will tell how long it's got.
Hopefully no one will be holding on to it when it finally does go!
Yes I remember the tradition for Lockwood's. The first climbing club I joined used to make a point of doing it every Christmas dinner meet (which was always in N. Wales) - or at least that was what they told themselves - I don't remember ever getting the chance to do it!
jmarkb wrote:Nice report!
It's probably just me, but I always seem to find Glencoe routes hard for the grade (e.g. compared to Glen Nevis). I think it's the rather flat holds and sometimes spaced gear that makes them feel just a bit insecure.
I went through a phase of climbing wet gullies and chimneys in my youth (mostly in the Lakes). I was cured of this affliction by an attempt on Clachaig Gully: we got past the main pitches but were tired, cold and scared and made a very sketchy escape out to the right. I would not go anywhere near The Chasm these days!
Thanks jmarkb
Some of the routes on Rannoch Wall - Grooved Arete, for example - are a bit run-out in places, that's for sure. Also 1st pitch of The Long Crack on the east face of Aonach Dubh, I seem to remember. The guidebook describes the last pitch of Agag's as being 'quite bold' too, though I think this would only feel bold to a leader for whom VDiff is his maximum grade. But then I guess it depends also on what sort of climbing one is used to. Lakes climbers will feel relatively at home in Glencoe as it's the same rock-type (rhyolite). Whereas Glasgow climbers who are familiar with the Cobbler will probably feel more at home on the mica schist of the Polldubh crags. Glen Nevis is such a friendly place to climb, though - some fine routes there.
