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Getting stuck on an ice-covered mountain slope without crampons and ice axe is not exactly any climber's dream, but on the other hand, nobody wants to carry the extra weight when there is little chance it would be useful. Most times we are just being overly cautious, packing the winter gear in even if there is little snow to see on the mountain. This time though, we decided to leave crampons and axes in the car. Did we regret it? You'll see soon.
It was a grey, gloomy Saturday but with winds very low we couldn't resist the temptation and decided to travel up to the Far North to re-visit a good Graham, Ben Stack. A very appropriate name, one might say. Who would want to get stuck on Ben Stack?
Our route followed the usual way this hill is climbed, up its eastern ridge called Leathad na Stioma. During our previous visit here (in 2011 if my memory is correct) we used the same route and back then there was hardly any path. Many pairs of feet must have trodden up and down the eastern slopes of the Graham since, because to our surprise, we found a path, in more or less boggy shape, all the way to the summit.
The walk starts form the car park for Arkle & Foinaven (just off A838, 1.5km north of Achfary). There are great views to the southern cliffs of Arkle from the very beginning:
A new TV mast has been added recently and the access track to this mast can be used to avoid the initial boggy ground:
From the end of the good track, we picked a boggy path which was more annoying than helpful; it has rained the previous night and the ground was squelchy and waterlogged (at least on lower slopes). We followed the rocky spine, patiently avoiding more boggy sections. Forecast was for cloud to thin and break in the afternoon so we hoped we'd get at least some summit views. For now, we were happy with nice vista east to Loch More:
Loch Stack and Meall Horn behind, still in wintry outfit:
The rocky rib can be followed half way up the hill. Even without a path, easy navigation:
At some point we entered the cloud and the views around were restricted to misty shapes, but it didn't stop me from exploring rocks when possible:
At the height of about 550m, the slope becomes less steep for a short distance. The final ascent, which is steep again, can be seen behind me, emerging from the cloud:
At this point we began to wonder if leaving crampons behind wasn't perhaps a mistake. If there was ice higher up (and in the mist it was impossible to judge from below) we might have to turn back just below the summit, as the final ascent is on steep slopes. There was no other way to know but to keep climbing.
The faint path continues up the steeper section. First, there was little snow around and the ground was not frozen:
...later we encountered more snow, but thankfully, it was soft:
Summit in sight!
Deep, soft, almost slushy stuff just below the summit. No crampons needed. Good, we won't get stuck on Stack!
As we neared the top, the cloud began to drift away and from behind the curtain, the views started to emerge. We timed it just right for the summit spectacle!
The summit area is divided by a deep trench. The highest point is at the end of the right-hand side "wall", just past a curiously looking aerial mast.
Let's find the true summit:
Posing by the aerial:
Looking west from the summit cairn:
View back east to the mast and the trig point, which is situated on the other side of the trench:
We noticed there was next to no wind today. It meant a longer break on the summit. I posed with Lucy on her 81st Graham:
Views were far from perfect, still some cloud surrounding the higher mountains, but at least it wasn't another "cairn in the mist" experience! The most interesting view was north to Arkle and Foinaven behind it:
Loch Stack, Meall Horn and Meallan Liath Coire Mhic Dhughaill:
Time to start the descent! Because the snow was soft, there was no danger as long as we didn't do anything stupid on steeper sections:
Panoramic view of the far north Corbetts:
Zoom to Foinaven:
We descended without any misadventures to the saddle at 550m. Looking back at the summit cone, now free of clag, I said thank you to my lucky star. On a very frosty, icy day, this slope without crampons could be lethal, but today it was simply too warm for the soft snow to freeze.
One last look at Arkle:
We retraced our steps back down the wet slopes. The whole excursion took just over 4 hours. It's not a long walk but I like this hill, just as I like most mountains in this aea. Arkle, Foinaven, Meall Horn, MacDhugall's Hill, Ben Hee, Cranstackie... Each one of these names brings back memories and I'd love to return to them all, maybe try new routes, different approaches, tackle some in winter conditions... But as for winter 2018/19, this was our last wintry adventure (unless we have a big winter return in April
). The following weekend, we went east to repeat a nice Corbett, and all snow was well and truly gone from the lower hills, even the Cairngorms looked like it was all melting rapidly. But this story will be the subject of my next TR