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Since moving to Edinburgh last year we've been inching further south during our explorations of the Border regions. Last month we finally got beyond the border itself, on the coast path between Berwick-upon-Tweed and Eyemouth. Unlike the WH route, we walked from south to north to keep the sun behind us, so in the morning we parked in Eyemouth and hopped on a bus to Berwick.
The bus deposits us in Golden Square right at the heart of Berwick-upon-Tweed. The town seems bustling and very attractive - we'll have to come back another day to explore it properly. But for now - straight down to the north bank of the River Tweed and along the ramparts towards the long pier, with good views back to an array of road and railway bridges.
Lots to see up to now, but beyond the pier we're glad to be walking with our backs to the chilly southeasterly wind rather than into it. Into the countryside, past the coastguard tower and the next interesting spot is the little beach at Fisherman's Haven.
Steep steps regain the clifftop from the far end of the beach, and that's the last sand we'll see until the end of the day. The next section of coastline is quite impressive, with sheer cliffs, caves, arches and seabirds starting to nest. Seagulls, kittiwakes, fulmars, shags, razorbills, rock doves, oystercatchers, waders, swans, eiders & other ducks all seen during the course of the day.
After a couple more miles the coast path and cliffs come close to the East Coast mainline and things get a bit less interesting for a while.
Marshall Meadows Bay - the caravan park has an old blowhole / sinkhole with a tunnel leading through the cliffs to the shoreline.
Scottish Border!
If we'd been half-expecting a change in scenery over the border, none materialised - except that the ground had a lot more sheep poo on it. And here were the culprits:
Above Lamberton Beach the path squeezes through a particularly narrow neck of land between cliffs and railway:
Abandoned buildings:
After the buildings at Lamberton Holdings we join a minor road for about half a mile through fields:
Next a path leads down through the field, with sheep and lambs lettered for identification, to steps which descend steeply to Burnmouth. Burnmouth has four or five separate parts - mostly strung along the foot of the cliffs, but with a larger part at the top of them. Harbour:
Looking back after leaving the village from the top end:
The next section is probably the highlight of the walk, with increasingly high cliffs towards Blaikie Heugh.
Finally, a long and gradual descent into Eyemouth, visible on the horizon. A path is marked out on the seaward side of the golf course - staying on the coast for longer than the WH route suggests - until just before Eyemouth Harbour, with its resident seal present.
Back in Eyemouth, there's just enough time to explore Gunsgreen House - a smuggler's mansion - before it closes, but no time for the town museum.
Eyemouth:
Over a hundred bronze women and children gaze out into the North Sea, waiting for the local fishermen who were killed in the storm of 1881.
