Sunshine on Sgurr Nan Eag

[Cairngorm creeper]

This was our first time camping in Glen Brittle, a beautiful spot for a campsite nestling between the Cuillins and the silver sand of the beach.. The site was already busy, with no electric pitches left and we were lucky to find a levelspot. Apart from the unpleasant smells surrounding the toilet block it was nice site and it was very handy being able to walk from the site. We were up at 06:00 am and walking by 07:45. This was our first visit to the southern end of the Cuillin Ridge and I felt excited to explore an area I had not previously visited. We were still in recovery mood and although we were aiming for just the one summit I had serious doubts as to whether we reach the upper coire given our current lack of fitness.

The Route

The path starts at the campsite and soon we were looking down and out across the bay.

Glen Brittle Bay 7:50

The gentle incline on a good path allowed our aching muscles to warm up slowly as we admired Coire Lagan winding our way slowly to Coir a Ghrunnda.
It took us about 90 minutes to reach Coir a Ghrunnda. Some of the most magnificent rock scenery in scotland, with the slabs and tiers of grey brown rock building up to narrow apex of ridges and peaks. Sadly our photos completely failed to capture the scale and atmosphere.
The path followed the left of the baisin at the just below of the crags. The base of coire was scattered with rubble and boulders until eventually the grass gave way to impressive slabs with a tier of rocky shleves on left. We were concerned that we were heading too high and would miss the route to the upper coire so made our way down and ended up a an awkward boulder field. Made a not to stay high on the way back.

Coir a Ghrunnda 09:45

Route to Higher Coire

Staying to the left of the waterfall, which was a mere trickle, there was a short section of scrambling

Scrambling to reach Higher Coire

before we reached the higher coire where the clear green loch was ringed by famous peaks and the coire floor was scattered with incredible rock sculptures bfore dropping away dramatically.

Loch a Coir Ghrunnda, Casteal a Garbh Coire

10:55 and time for Brunch. Admiring Sgurr nan Eag

Amazing Rock Sculpture

Loch a Coir Ghrunnda and Sgurr Alasdai

As we enjoyed our brunch several guided groups arrived in the coire, all stopping to don harnesses before confronting the joys of the ridge.
Despite stopping to consult the map we followed everyone else up the loose scree and boulder path for a considerable distance before realising that if we stayed on this route we would miss out most of the ridge. We then had to take a scrambling traverse across enormous boulders to reach Bealach a Garbh Coire.
The direct scramble up to the ridge was looked very steep so continued round to the side and gained access more easily.

Transported to heaven

Heavenly Views

We were surprised to see that a path ran along side of the ridge most of the way, I always imagine narrow ridges to have near vertical drops on both sides and have yet to learn that very often there is one side with more gentle slopes and frequently a path.
We followed the crest which was, in places, very exposed on the left hand side, there was some easy hand traversing and narrow walking sections plus straight forward scrambling and a chimney.

Working our way up

Cuillin Ridge

Ridge

Ridge

More Ridge

Which far too soon and we were retrieving our walking poles for the final walk to the summit.

and then a path to the summit

13:15 Sgurr Nan Eag

The answer is blowing in the wind

What do you do when you reach the top

13:50 Time to go down

We intended to follow the path down, but good intentions pathe the road to hell and we nearly ended up there, having started down far to soon on a scree shoot. We could see steep ground below us as we made our way carefully down the unpleasantly loose stones and knew we needed to traverse round to find a safer route. We eventually located a path with some easy scrambling incorporated but it was not the path we started out on!

Back on route but not the path we followed up

Reaching the Coire with relief

Time for more tea, so Jeremy Jetboill strutted his stuff at the top of the waterfall but this time we had run out of food.
After scrambling down to the lower coire we looked for a higher path, skirting the crags. The walkers in front of us seemed to be descending into the boulder field and we met a lady on her way up, was flustered because the path she was following came to a dead end. Undeterred we made our way and found a path running along the base of the crags, much nices than the boulder fields.

17:25 Mouth of coir a Ghrunnda

A painful stroll back for Dick who had sore toes and swore never to wear rebel lites in the summer again. I had a few aches but given our pitiful state of fitness it was amazing that we made it at all. As we reached the river crossing we met someone in a much poorer state than us. A french gentlman who had limped his way down with a damaged and very painful ankle. Unfortunately we don't speak french and his english was not good enough to tell us exactly what happened. He had scorned the idea of calling mountain rescue despite his discomfort, and his friend had gone ahead to bring a car round to the campsite to shorten his journey. We walked with this valient fellow who was remarkably cheerful despite his predicament, unfortunately we had nothing to offer but our company as water bottles were dry and our food eaten but hopefully we eased his journey and he enriched ours.
Now back home with no sign of good weather for the week ahead, we are wondering where next?