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10 days in Morvern & Mull - bikes, birds & a bothy

10 days in Morvern & Mull - bikes, birds & a bothy


Postby petelynn » Tue Jul 02, 2019 6:46 pm

Fionas included on this walk: Creach Beinn

Date walked: 20/05/2019

Time taken: 5 hours

Distance: 7 km

Ascent: 710m

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This is a 'round up' report of a ten night stay at Lochaline in Morvern, a couple of walks have been the subject of separate reports. I guess not many people stay for 10 days in Lochaline but I prefer to go where most others don't so Morvern with no Munros and only a few Corbetts and Grahams promised to be fairly empty of walkers and there looked to be plenty of walk routes, if mostly a bit low key.
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Monday 20/5/19 Creach Beinn (Mull)

After staying overnight in Oban the trip began with catching the ferry to Craignure. As we left the pier a white tailed eagle flew over towards the hills behind the town and flew with another one that was already there. A good start to bird spotting on this trip. A bit later one of the eagles flew over the ferry at about 200 ft up giving good views but my camera was in the car. From Craignure we drove round to Loch Buie looking for somewhere for Jim to Kayak for the afternoon. We eventually settled on Kinlochspelve and after Jim left I set off up Creach Beinn - I reckoned it would take 3 hours.

Imagemorverngeneral1 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Getting ready to head off with Creach Beinn behind.

It was a fairly obvious circuit straight from the car.

our_route.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts



Up the steep grassy slope and the view behind rapidly encompassed the whole of Loch Spelve.
Imagemorverngeneral2 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
On the horizon - the hills of Morvern to the left, then Lismore then the Appin hills

Imagemorverngeneral3 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Obvious route up the blunt ridge to the right of the gully

Imagemorverngeneral4 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Steep but no real obstacles

It was only just over an hour from the car to the top of the ridge then just a few minutes walk to the summit. Luckily the clouds were above both this hill and Beinn Buie but Ben More and the top of Ben Talaidh were in the cloud.

Imagemorverngeneral5 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
North to Ben Talaidh and cloud covered Ben More

There were good views from here but the distant hills on the mainland were all in cloud.

Imagemorverngeneral6 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Looking over Loch Spelve to Loch Linnhe

Imagemorverngeneral7 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Rocks and pools near the summit, Ben More hidden still

Imagemorverngeneral9 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Ben Buie looks a fine hill from the summit of Creach Beinn

The direct route south to the road from the summit looked too craggy for me so, after looking down and rejecting a couple of gullies, I descended down the south west ridge until an easier way down appeared.

Imagemorverngeneral11 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Looking back to the rocky bit I'd just skirted round.

Back on rough grass I heard a rusting sound, looked down to see an adder slithering away from my feet. It took a while to get back down to the road by the war memorial and I managed to bend one of my walking poles by getting it stuck between two rocks while vaulting a boggy bit! . But I arrived back only 5 minutes after my estimated time. We then caught the ferry from Fishnish to Lochaline and arrived at the Ardtornish Estate Bunkhouse where we spent 5 nights in the Bunkhouse Studio (self contained annexe to the Bunkhouse for 2 people - highly recommended).

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Tuesday 21/5/19 Ben Iadian, Morvern

Separate report https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=89874

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Wednesday 22/5/19 Circuit of Western Morvern by Bike

From the map there was an obvious circular route around the western part of Morvern by bike with half road, half off road tracks and a 1km 'missing link' just south of Doirlinn. We'd see if we could get through on the bikes and if not explore some of the forestry tracks. We set off straight from Ardtornish and followed the road up to Kinlochteacuis.

Imagemorverngeneral12 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Road to Kinlochteacuis, Ben Hiant on Ardnamurchan in distance

The isle of Carna almost blocks the entrance to Loch Teacuis from Loch Sunart giving two tricky routes in for all but the smallest craft. Doirlinn lies opposite Carna on the west bank of Loch Teacuis and also gives access to Oronsay at all but the highest tides. It is at the end of a 'destitution' road from Drimnin which would be our route west should we make it to Doirlinn.

Imagemorverngeneral13 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Carna from the track towards Doirlinn

Imagemorverngeneral14 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Eastern entrance to Loch Teacuis

The forestry track gave way to a decent path which led to Eilean nan Eildean which has some sort otter spotting hide. We tried to push the bikes along the foreshore but the tide was too high for that. A route through the birch woodland soon became unpushable so we retreated a bit to find a way over the hill.

Imagemorverngeneral15 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Track now becomes a reasonable path

Imagemorverngeneral16 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Path getting smaller

Imagemorverngeneral17 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
No more path, Jim off prospecting ahead

Imagemorverngeneral18 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Only 800M or so of this

Imagemorverngeneral19 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
House at Doirlinn now in sight

It was slow going pushing and carrying the bikes about 800 metres through the heather and tussock grass but it was soon over and we knew we could now complete the circuit. We had cycle the route from Drimnin a few years back. Sad to say there were a couple of extra hills I had to get off and push this time!

Imagemorverngeneral20 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
View over Oronsay and Loch Sunart from the track

We left the bikes and walked down to the cleared village of Auliston. This is a fantastic location at the junction of the Sound of Mull and Loch Sunart and must have been heartbreaking to leave (though I'm sure it was a hard life here).

Imagemorverngeneral21 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Auliston

It was now a fair old trek along the Sound of Mull to Lochaline then along the old road along the shore of Loch Aline past the silica mine to Ardtornish.

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Thursday 23rd May boat trip to Staffa and Lunga

We cycled in to Lochaline, left the bikes, caught the ferry to Fishnish and were picked up by a minibus for the trip to Ulva Ferry to catch a (crowded) boat trip out to Staffa and Lunga. On the way out we saw a pod of dolphins who appeared alongside the boat for several minutes. Arriving at Staffa we had an hour ashore. This was enough to have a look at Fingal's cave and a bit of a wander over the island. At Fingal's cave there had been a collapse of some of the basalt columns at the entrance and a repair was incomplete so you weren't supposed to go in. But it didn't stop everybody. Also a fast RIB with a dozen people on board reversed in and started blaring out Mendelssohn's Hebrides Overture and back at the pier we had to wait while out boat queued up behind another one to take us off. So a bit of a theme park experience. Lunga, however, was a different matter despite the number of visitors.

Imagemorverngeneral22 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Obligatory snap of Fingal's cave.

On Lunga there is a path over to Dun Cruit where the main breeding colony of guillemots is and most people headed straight that way. We set off up to the highest point (all of 103 Metres) before descending to the birdlife.

Imagemorverngeneral23 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Bluebells , looking to Dutchman's Cap.

Imagemorverngeneral24 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
From the highest point looking down to the rest of the crowd on the path.

Imagemorverngeneral25 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Puffins and Razorbills going about their business

The birds were extremely trusting of humans and sat around with people looking at them from just a few feet away. It was all quite mesmerising. The tour company got us back to Fishnish in time for the last ferry back to Lochaline.

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Friday 24th May Walk local to Ardtornish

We cycled and walked up to some lochans in search of wildlife and thought we saw a black throated diver but only a glimpse. Then cycled down to Ardtornish Castle and started the walk towards Innimore Bay but it was all under trees and windless so we retreated from the midges. I've included the photo below as it shows the similarities of this bit of the Morvern coast to the south coast of Mull.

Imagemorverngeneral46 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
South coast of Morvern from Ardtornish Castle, path to Innimore runs through woods at bottom of cliff

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Saturday 25th May Ardtornish to Eignaig

The forecast today was for rain from midday so a short bike/walk was in order. From the bunkhouse we cycled up to Loch Tearnait. I'd read that the Leacraithnaic bothy was having a new roof and had been closed for 4 weeks. When we arrived the working party were just taking down their temporary workshop ready to leave. Inside there were new ceilings as well and the place looked really good. We were generously offered a cup of tea and felt bad declining but we wanted to get on a bit ahead of the rain.

Imagemorverngeneral27 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
The Leacraithnaic bothy with shiny new roof and temporary workshop.

Imagemorverngeneral26 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Inside the bothy - very smart and welcoming

We took the bikes to the end of Loch Tearnait and set off along what was once a well engineered path but now rather came and went at times over the moor. The path moved up to higher ground above three lochans (Lochanan Dubha).

Imagemorverngeneral28 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Lochanan Dubha

After a deer fence the path became muddier from deer that had been channelled through by the missing gate.

Imagemorverngeneral29 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Muddy deer track

The path on the 250 metre descent to Eignaig disappeared regularly in heather and tussock grass but always reappeared and, in now steady rain, I came out onto the beach. This was a lovely spot and the beach was covered in a dazzling array of different stones - Basalt, Red granite, Quarzite and , most colourful of all, seaweeds.

Imagemorverngeneral30 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Cottage at Eignaig

Imagemorverngeneral31 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Colourful seaweed and stones

Although there was no-one about and didn't seem to have been for a while there was a pair of knickers hanging on the washing line and a bare light bulb unlit in the window. I set back off in the rain, still managing to lose the path during the climb and now the clag was almost down to lochan level.

Imagemorverngeneral32 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Dreary trudge back in the rain.

I reclaimed my bike and got very dirt spattered on the downhill ride in the pouring rain. Once smartened up we moved from the Ardtornish bunkhouse to an Airbnb in Lochaline.

Sunday was wet all day but fortunately we had arranged to visit friends who recently moved to Resipole and enjoyed a roast lunch.

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Monday 27th May South side of Loch Sunart past Laudale House

This was a bike ride so not much to report for Walkhighlands. Loch Sunart is one of the most beautiful sea lochs and this South side has no public road for the western two thirds, unlike the north side. We cycled, from one of the few parking spaces towards the end of the public road, for about 16Km to Glencripesdale and then back. For a lot of the time the view was restricted by the woodland the track passed through. At Laudale House we followed the signs to pass along the foreshore rather than through the grounds of the house. This route could be combined on foot with either of the tracks/paths from Glencripesdale to Kinlochteacuis to make a excellent one way walk.

Imagemorverngeneral33 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Loch Sunart looking NE to Sgurr Dhomhnuill

Imagemorverngeneral34 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Loch Sunart from Glencripesdale. Rois-Bheinn group on left, Bein Odhar Bheag centre and Beinn Resipole on right

Imagemorverngeneral35 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Near end of public road. Sgurr Dhomhnuill to left Garbh Bheinn on the right

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Tuesday 28th May Glen Galmdale Round

Separate report here:-

https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=90055

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Wednesday 29th May Above Loch Teacuis again

Jim decided to kayak from Kinlochteacuis again up to the top end of Loch Sunart so I'd got about 5 hours to walk before driving round to pick him up. As we'd found out earlier in the trip we'd have no mobile signal so I'd need to be reasonably prompt at the other end. I thought I could head up to Sithean Na Raplaich and down again. I decided to set off up a very steep slope that had been clear felled. Getting off the forestry track was the first obstacle as brash from the felling (which must have been years ago) was piled up and my legs kept disappearing into it so it took 5 minutes to go the first 10 metres. Then it was very steep but the stumps of the felled trees made useful handholds.

Imagemorverngeneral36 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Looking down the felled slope I've come up.

Once up the steep slope it was more heather and tussock grass but with a number of very strange installations for what purpose? I've no idea.

Imagemorverngeneral37 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Strange installation, Beinn na h-Uamha behind

Imagemorverngeneral38 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Again good views over Carna, Loch Sunart and Ardnamurchan to Rum

Imagemorverngeneral39 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Sithean Na Raplaich

I faffed around a bit heading north looking for the best views and it became apparent I wouldn't have time to get up and down Sithean Na Raplaich. I didn't fancy going back down the slope I'd come up so I looked for a way back through the forestry.

Imagemorverngeneral40 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
This fence leads into what looks like a fire break

Imagemorverngeneral41 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Of course progress was impeded by fallen trees

I checked my GPS a few times to see if I was getting near the track shown on the map which would take me down to the Loch.

Imagemorverngeneral42 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
This doesn't look like a track but it is clear and heading in the right direction.


Imagemorverngeneral43 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
And after not too long here is the start of the track

After a while I came to another clear felled area. Now I know clear felled forestry is not a very popular terrain for walking but emerging from the tall forest there was suddenly views and birdsong and sunshine. In fact it felt a bit like being in the Correze region in central France where we have relations.

Imagemorverngeneral44 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Clear felled area

The track then wound its way down the hill back to Loch Teacuis

Imagemorverngeneral45 by Peter Lynn, on Flickr
Heading down to the end of the walk with Ben Iadain (my first walk on Morvern 8 days ago) on the left and Beinn na h-Uamha (the one that got away) on the right.

A great stay in an absorbing but underappreciated area. I'll be back but I won't be looking forward to the tussock grass which has replaced bracken as my least favourite vegetation.
petelynn
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Posts: 53
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Re: 10 days in Morvern & Mull - bikes, birds & a bothy

Postby Collaciotach » Tue Jul 02, 2019 11:03 pm

'S math a rinn sibh :clap: . Well done i know the route to Doirlin and there is an old cart track lower down toward the shore but a gap of around 300m between it and the wee hide at Eilean nan Eildean ...difficult to find. :wink:
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Collaciotach
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