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NW pub and bothy crawl (with some hills for funsies)

NW pub and bothy crawl (with some hills for funsies)


Postby Jaxter » Wed Jul 03, 2019 11:23 am

Route description: Beinn Dearg, Torridon

Corbetts included on this walk: Beinn Dearg (Torridon), Little Wyvis, Meall na Leitreach, The Sow of Atholl

Grahams included on this walk: Beinn a'Chlachain

Date walked: 16/10/2018

Time taken: 27 hours

Distance: 93.65 km

Ascent: 4432m

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Day before - The "Old Man" and The Ben

Tuesday 16th October 2018 - Uags
10.91km
327m ascent
3 hours 30 minutes

From Fort William I drove north; I’d forgotten about the Stromeferry road closure but managed to turn up at the end of the queue as the convoy was starting to move and barely touched the breaks :lol:

I waited in Lochcarron for Malcy before we headed over Bealach na Ba and parked up at the pier at Toscaig just before 8pm. It was dark and although it wasn’t currently raining we put waterproofs on anyway before walking the couple of kilometres back up the road to Toscaig. It was raining on and off but was generally a nice walk, despite it being completely dark and very squishy underfoot.

As the evening progressed the rain stopped and the moon came out. It was a beautiful clear evening and we could see lights across the water on Skye.
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Eventually we were making the final descent towards Uags; we found our way through the trees and there was the bothy, surrounded by hundreds of deer eyes reflected in the lights of our headtorches :lol:

It was just before 10 and when we walked in there were two guys asleep in front of the fire. It wasn’t too cold se we took one of the upstairs rooms and made ourselves comfortable with dinner, cake and custard and of course….four-candles :lol:
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Wednesday 17th October 2018
We awoke the next morning and I nipped out for a pee. I immediately ran back upstairs for my camera and to let Malcy know that it would be worth his while getting up 8)

Running back outside I could see across to Skye
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Modelling my trendy red sparkly flip-flops 8)
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Sun hitting the Skye hills
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Uags Bay
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Uags bothy
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Malcy finally got his ass out of bed and his horrible boots on (no flip-flops :lol: ) and we had a wee wander down to the beach, taking care to be careful - although it was a 4G bothy we reckoned Torridon MRT wouldn’t thank us for a call-out thanks for walking around in flip-flops :roll:
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Raasay and Dun Caan
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Uags bay and the bothy
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A wee rainbow behind Eilean Mor
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We had initially planned to climb the Applecross corbetts but Uags was such a gorgeous spot that we didn’t want to rush off. I suggested that we could just have a pub lunch. This suggestion seemed to go down well :lol:

We took our time over breakfast before packing up and heading out. It was a stunning walk and we enjoyed the views that we’d missed on the walk in, as well as congratulating ourselves for finding our way in the dark the night before :thumbup:
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Looking back to Skye
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Toscaig
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Given that we could see where we were going now we decided to cut directly down to Toscaig so avoid walking along the road. It was a bit off-piste but it avoided the mental river crossing that I nearly fell in the night before :lol:
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We drove up the road to the Applecross Inn and enjoyed an amazing lunch. There were a few showers and we were glad to be inside 8)
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Beinn a’ Chlachain
11.56km
706m ascent
3 hours 30 minutes

Over lunch we looked at options for the afternoon – we didn’t have time to get around the corbetts but we needed to burn off lunch. Malcy suggested Beinn a’ Chlachain – a Graham just across the bay.

We headed up the path to gain a bit of height. Looking back towards Applecross was stunning 8)
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After a short distance we left the path and headed up pathless grassy bog. Fortunately the views more than made up for this :lol:
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It was a steep climb but eventually we were on the ridge which made the going slightly easier and the views incredible 8)
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It wasn’t easy terrain to walk on so we weren’t making very fast progress :lol: Or maybe it was lunch slowing us down :roll:
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Spoiling Malcy’s photo :lol:
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Looking across to the Applecross Corbetts – not their best angle this side :lol:
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We were still dodging the odd shower but the views were still pretty striking
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Loch nan Eun
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We came to an impassible crag – we managed to dodge right to get down it. Looking back it was an impressive wall that ran almost all the way along!
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As we climbed it became rockier and we were able to walk over more solid ground
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Looking towards Torridon
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Applecross corbetts
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It was a long ridge but eventually we were on the final pull to the summit. It was pretty windy but they views were still great 8)
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Beinn a’ Chlachain summit
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Malcy might be stuck…. :lol:
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Nope, just attempting to change his facial expression :wink:
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To avoid going all the way back down the ridge, and make it into a circular route we decide to drop down – slightly backtracking around the coire we found a steep but passable route down
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I may have misjudged my footing :roll:
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Looking back up to the coire
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Looking down into Strath Maolchaluim
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Down on the track it was nice to get the waterproofs off and have something a bit more solid to walk on :lol: It was an easy stroll back down the glen – looking back up to Beinn a’ Chlachain – a pretty impressive mountain 8)
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We passed Hartfield House – I suggested that this would be a good venue for our next meet. I’m pleased to report that Malcy has delivered :wink:

Back at the car it was time to find some accommodation for the night. First of all we passed the bay at Applecross…
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Back over bealach na ba (much more comfortable cycling than driving :shock: ) and stopped for some views this time 8)
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Beinn a' Chlachain.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts



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Coire Fionnaraich
7km
176m ascent
1 hour 40 minutes

We picked up my car from Lochcarron and drove the short distance to Coulags. It was dark – another bothy walk-in then :roll:

It started raining too! But none of that mattered when we arrived at Coire Fionnaraich. We settled in, got the fire going (Malcy somehow managed to smoke the place out but eventually got it under control :lol: ) and got some dinner on.

I produced some sparklers which was fun 8)
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Thursday 18th October 2018

The next morning we had a nice breakfast, got our act together and had a nice easy walk out.

Looking back to the bothy
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Sgorr Ruadh
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An Ruadh-stac
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Coire Fionnarich.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts



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Beinn Dearg
16.91km
1179
6 hours 20 minutes

Beinn Dearg, my nemesis. Well, not really. I’d made an attempt in crazy winter conditions in January and had made the sensible decision to turn back. We decided to have a crack at it without the snow…but also to do the circular route which included some scrambling on the way up.

“It’s easy, I came down it in the snow” said Malcy.

We drove around to the Beinn Alligin car park, shuffled our rucksacks again and headed off.

Looking up the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuil gorge
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It was overcast but the weather was set to improve – the forecast had promised clear summits and dry rock – perfect for a Torridonian ridge :thumbup:

Ben Alligin was almost free of cloud
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Beinn Dearg ahead looked clear
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It was an easy and familiar walk up the path, and we managed to fill the time with plenty of chat (I’m sure Malcy was wondering when I’d run out of things to say…it’s not likely to happen :lol: )

The obligatory photo of Beinn Alligin and the waterfall
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Beinn Dearg looked a bit closer now, and pretty impressive :shock:
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We were going anti-clockwise so followed the path to the right around the back of Liathach. We could see Beinn Eighe ahead, and the first of today’s rain showers. Fortunately it passed through fairly quickly and painlessly.
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Beinn Dearg almost looked even more impressive with the mist hanging on the ridge
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Looking back down towards Torridon
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As we walked around we were looking directly up towards the impressive buttresses of Beinn Dearg – the overcast weather made it look dark and imposing :shock:
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Eventually we had walked far enough – we left the path and bashed across grass and rocks before heading steeply uphill towards the ridge. I was wearing my new boots so my feet were staying dry. Who’d have thought :lol:

Looking down the glen towards Sail Mor
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Looking up into Coire na Caime on Liathach. Malcy suggested a visit to this corrie on a different occasion which sounded awesome 8)
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I was finding the ascent quite hard work but we realised later on that it was more likely some weird psychological thing where I knew I’d failed on this hill before…. :shock: Malcy was suitably sympathetic and told me to man up :lol:

We paused to add waterproofs thanks to another rain shower and Malcy used the opportunity to eat. To his credit he offered me a pie which improved things. Unfortunately I then managed to fall over on top of it. Disaster! It was a relief that pies still taste good even if they’ve been flattened :lol:

We made the ridge and we could see the impressive Torridonian slabs
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Baosbheinn and Beinn an Eoin
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Beinn an Eoin – impressively pointy and hard to believe from this angle that I’d camped on the summit in February!
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We were now exposed to the wind which meant we had to stop to put our gloves on. This didn’t go well for me :lol:
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Our route ahead
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Looking back to Carn na Feola and Beinn Eighe – we had decided to leave that top as the weather was clagged in and were beginning to regret that decision now :roll:
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It wasn’t hanging about weather – although it wasn’t raining it was cold! The views towards Slioch and the Fisherfield were lovely though
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Looking back again – the familiar grey of Beinn Eighe now visible
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Beinn a’ Chearcaill which Slioch behind
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Malcy’s Liathach corrie
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As we climbed we were heading into the cloud – it seemed a bit stubborn but we hoped it would shift as forecast. Soon we were able to see the scrambles ahead, I knew it was three rocky shelves to scramble up. I assumed it would look easier when we got closer :roll:
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Hmm…. :shock:
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The cloud was coming in…oh dear….
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Beinn Eighe disappearing too
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All hopes of easy scrambles with nice dry rock and no wind were dashed :lol: Looks pretty impassable to me :shock: :lol:
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We approached it…Malcy’s first reaction was “oh S***” although he fortunately didn’t mention this to me until later :lol: He went first attempting to find a way up for short people :lol: It wasn’t dignified (on my part anyway :shock: ) but we managed to find our way up. It wasn’t even that bad :roll: but my brain was playing tricks on me :roll:
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From there it was still a bit of a trek to the summit – there were still a few awkward bits – the rock was a wee bit slippery so we left the crest on a few occasions, but the grass was wet which made it even worse :roll: After I nearly sent a loose rock flying we went back to the ridge :lol:

We finally made it to the summit. It was cold, windy, raining and there were no views :angry: Still, we had done it, and in difficult conditions too.
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The ridge actually continued over some more rises, some more significant than others before properly starting to descend. It was actually an enjoyable walk despite the conditions :lol:

Malcy found a big hard pointy thing to jump on
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As we dropped out of the cloud we could see across to Beinn Alligin, also in the cloud :lol:
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Loch Torridon
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Looking back
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We both thought summit camp when we got to this flat area :lol:
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Looking out towards Gairloch where it was actually sunny 8)
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The ridge continues – what a belter, despite the cloud 8)
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Beinn an Eoin, Beinn a’ Chearcaill and the Fisherfield hills
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Baosbheinn
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Zoomed to An Teallach
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We reached the final point on the ridge, Stuc Loch na Cabhaig from which the descent is what I’d begun to come up in January. Despite the lack of snow it was a tricky descent – very steep and rocky in places which danger of going flying or breaking ankles at every step :lol:
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Looking back up to what we’ve come down :shock:
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The Horns of Alligin
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Looking down to Loch Torridon
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Don’t fall off that :shock:
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Looking across to Baosbheinn
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Malcy forging ahead (and wearing trousers :shock: )
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Eventually we were on the flat and able to squidge our way onto the path which got gradually better underfoot as we continued.

Looking down the glen to Beinn Eighe and Liathach
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It was an easy trek back to the car – Beinn Dearg, nemesis no more 8)


Beinn Dearg.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts



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Craig
9.17km
315m ascent
2 hours 40 minutes

We drove the few miles further along the road towards Lower Diabaig – I’d not been down here since my first visit to Torridon in 2015! We reached the end of the road, left the car and headed off along the path.

We saw a head torch light coming towards us who fortunately called to us and told us we were on the wrong path :lol: We were very grateful as it would have been a while before we’d noticed :lol:

It was an easy walk – although it was very windy in places we were a lot more sheltered than we had imagined it would be. Eventually we were making the final descent down towards the bay – then we saw a light in the window! There were people already in the bothy and they’d got a great fire going which was very welcome. We enjoyed a nice evening (except when Malcy send me out in the rain and mud to fetch water :roll: ) and then a good sleep

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Wednesday 18th October 2018

The following morning we were very glad to discover that the bothy had an actual flushing toilet complete with loo roll :lol:

Although the forecast was dreadful, looking out the window it didn’t seem to be as bad as suggested. We got outselves together and headed out – looking back to Craig bothy
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And out to sea
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Redpoint
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Malcy clearly not feeling himself – trousers :shock:
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Looking across the Loch to Fearnmore
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Back at the car we could see down to Loch Diabaig
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And out to sea
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We had to stop at this viewpoint – David Main got a better version of this shot, but it was a great view 8)
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We did another check of the weather over lunch at the Torridon Inn and it was implying the apocalypse was nigh, although driving through sunny autumnal Torridon it didn’t seem likely…. There were a few photo stops en route 8)

Loch Torridon
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Torridonian corbetts
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Looking back to Torridon
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Looking up to the Liathach pinnacles
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Sgurr Dubh and Loch Bharranch
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Loch Clair – this definitely needs further exploration
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Looking back up to Sgurr Dubh
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The weather starting to turn, but Torridon is still incredible 8)
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Of course I had to stop at the Kinlochewe viewpoint 8)
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And another look at Sgurr a’ Mhuillin, the mysterious mountain, now conquered!
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craig.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts



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Friday 19th October 2018 – Little Wyvis
10.75km
724m ascent
2 hours 25 minutes

I finally got going and arrived at Silver Bridge where Malcy claimed he hadn’t been waiting too long, although I think he was being kind :lol: Boots were on and we crossed the bridge over a very impressive Black Water
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We followed the track through a couple of zigzags before beginning to gain some height. The afternoon light was incredible 8)
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Wee lochan
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Ahead to Little Wyvis
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Looking back towards Torridon
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We met some large furry friends….I don’t think they wanted to harm us but they were very big :shock:
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It was easy walking and we gained height quickly. The views were worth the effort 8)
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Fannaichs
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Out towards Seana Braigh
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We were pretty surprised to see a car coming towards us although the wind had picked up so we didn’t see it until it was pretty close :lol:
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We left the track and walked the last few metres to the summit. It was incredibly windy and we were getting blown around all over the place.

Ben Wyvis
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Dornoch Firth
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North
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Lochluichart
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Carn Chuinneag
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Struggling to stand in the wind :lol:
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It was beautiful but very cold so we hurriedly added some more layers before heading off. It was so windy that we were struggling to hear each other (definitely a good thing for Malcy :lol: )
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The light started to go creating wonderful colours 8)
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Back at the car we made use of the toilets before heading to a secret location for a cosy night that turned out not to be as cosy as hoped as we failed on the fire. Malcy’s fault of course, what a numpty :lol:


Wee Wyvis.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts



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Saturday 20th October 2018 – The Sow, Meall na Leitreach & Duinish bothy
27.35km
1005m ascent
6 hours 45 minutes

We had been kicking about several plans for this expedition, depending on what the weather had decided. It was pretty changeable but seemed to be suggesting Saturday would be relatively nice and Sunday pretty horrible. So we ditched Sunday’s round of Sgairneach Mor and friends in exchange for an extra out and back on Saturday.

We weren’t early, but we weren’t too late either. We set off from the parking area towards the railway (realised we could have parked there and saved ourselves a few minutes walk :roll: ) before passing Dalnaspidal Lodge and heading off down the track.

The Sow
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We followed the track before taking a right turn up another good track just before the second bridge. This got us some height but we had to leave it as it was heading up towards Coire Luidhearnaidh.

Looking back – the mist was swirling about a bit
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The track deteriorated now – it was pretty sloshy underfoot and a bit slippery too :roll:
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A wee rabbit
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It was an easy walk and got drier underfoot as we climbed higher. Reaching the top we were treated to the views of the inside of a cloud but we had a wee wander and it cleared a little to the North – Drumochter is impressive from this angle 8)
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The sun was trying to come out
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The Sow summit
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There weren’t many circular route options around here without including more hills so we headed back down the same way we had come – Loch Garry visible ahead
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Looking back up
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Looking up towards Drumochter
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Looking back to the Sow
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I managed to persuade Malcy not to get too distracted by the field of sheep we had to walk past, and we were back at the cars.

A quick reshuffle of bags and we were heading back towards Dalnaspidal Lodge (past the sheep again :roll: ) and back across the bridge.
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We crossed over the Dam and headed up Meall na Leitreach – it was another very squishy path but my new boots seemed to be up to the challenge.
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Before long the cloud came in and the wind was brutal meaning we weren’t having the easiest of times with our big packs :roll:
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We kept climbing and eventually reached the ridge. Given the conditions on the way up we had expected the top to be utterly horrible, but it wasn’t actually all that bad (not saying it was nice or anything :lol: ) and we easily made the summit which was just off the path.
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Malcy was trying to make a big deal about this being my 100th corbett because he knew it would annoy me as I don’t care about numbers :lol: I don’t know why I hang out with this asshole :lol:

We followed the path along the top – eventually it started dropping down but given the lack of visibility we were trying to be careful not to follow it aimlessly. It seemed to be dropping us into the corrie so we started to bear a little further right. Eventually we were out of the clag and were able to see the way ahead. Spot the bothy!
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We spotted the river ahead – fortunately we knew that we didn’t need to cross the huge river but that still left another which was an unknown quantity….we headed towards it and came upon a big trench of dark sludge. No way across that :shock:

We headed upstream – Malcy was convinced we would find a way to get across, and fortunately he was correct on this occasion :lol: Some muddy tussocks provided very wobbly stepping stones and we made it :thumbup: (although what Malcy failed to photograph was the undignified climb out of the burn….)
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Looking towards Loch Garry
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We had now been plodding our way through bog and tussocks for some time and although we could see the bothy it didn’t seem to be getting any closer :shock:
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“When I reach the track I’m going to kiss it!” although getting up was a bit of a challenge :lol:
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But now on the track it was the final stretch 8) We picked up some water – although I wasn’t sure if Malcy was also taking a dump :lol:
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Bothy ahoy 8)
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We were very happy to arrive at Duinish Bothy – currently unoccupied. We made ourselves at home, added some more layers and got a brew on. The weather was howling outside (answering the call of nature was not a pleasant experience :roll: ) but we got a fantastic fire on (one of our better efforts) and passed a very enjoyable evening in the warm and dry 8)
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Sunday 21st October 2018

The next morning we had a leisurely breakfast before heading out. It was raining a little but not quite the apocalypse that was forecast.

Good job we didn’t need to get across this river :shock:
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Malcy warned me about the section from the footbridge to the end of Loch Garry – a boggy mire of misery. We decided to stay a little higher to keep out of this which was a bit trickier underfoot but nothing awful.

Looking back towards Duinish
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Malcy getting ahead when I stopped for a pee :lol:
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Before too long we were at the end of Loch Garry and on solid ground. Yay!
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Looking back it actually looked like a nice day at times!
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We made it back to the cars at lunchtime and it was a relatively easy drive home for both of us. Having been away the entire week it was good to have an evening to prepare for the return to work the next day…shudder…. But wonderful memories of a brilliant week 8)


sow leitreach and duinish.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

Last edited by Jaxter on Wed Jul 03, 2019 9:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Jaxter
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Re: NW pub and bothy crawl (with some hills for funsies)

Postby Mal Grey » Wed Jul 03, 2019 9:12 pm

Good grief, brain overload, I can't cope with all those different walks, sometimes more than one a day. I think.

Proper way to spend a week! :clap: :clap: :clap:

Have to say, the bothies seemed to somewhat outnumber the pubs!

Uags is one of my very favourite places to spend the night.
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Mal Grey
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Re: NW pub and bothy crawl (with some hills for funsies)

Postby Jaxter » Fri Jul 05, 2019 9:31 am

Mal Grey wrote:Good grief, brain overload, I can't cope with all those different walks, sometimes more than one a day. I think.

Proper way to spend a week! :clap: :clap: :clap:

Have to say, the bothies seemed to somewhat outnumber the pubs!

Uags is one of my very favourite places to spend the night.

It was pointed out to me that I'd missed out one of the pub visits (now edited!) which was ironic given the title :lol: :lol:
Uags is brilliant isn't it - definitely one to return to plenty of times. I suspect you'd canoed there?
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Jaxter
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Re: NW pub and bothy crawl (with some hills for funsies)

Postby Mal Grey » Fri Jul 05, 2019 11:09 am

Jaxter wrote:[
It was pointed out to me that I'd missed out one of the pub visits (now edited!) which was ironic given the title :lol: :lol:
Uags is brilliant isn't it - definitely one to return to plenty of times. I suspect you'd canoed there?


Actually, not one I've canoed to, we walked in on the last winter trip in 2018. Two nights just living there, didn't do a report but wrote about it on my little blog if you're interested; https://www.wildernessisastateofmind.co.uk/post/a-room-with-a-view-2-nights-at-uags-bothy

The only one I've paddled to is Glencoul, which is possibly even better! https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=80193

Will now have to re-read your post to find out about the other pub!
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Mal Grey
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Re: NW pub and bothy crawl (with some hills for funsies)

Postby Sgurr » Sat Jul 06, 2019 3:15 pm

Just goes to show once More that you are far more intrepid than me. I was on the edge of my comfort zone climbing Beinn Dearg in the dry.
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Re: NW pub and bothy crawl (with some hills for funsies)

Postby Jaxter » Tue Jul 09, 2019 9:18 am

Mal Grey wrote:
Jaxter wrote:[
It was pointed out to me that I'd missed out one of the pub visits (now edited!) which was ironic given the title :lol: :lol:
Uags is brilliant isn't it - definitely one to return to plenty of times. I suspect you'd canoed there?


Actually, not one I've canoed to, we walked in on the last winter trip in 2018. Two nights just living there, didn't do a report but wrote about it on my little blog if you're interested; https://www.wildernessisastateofmind.co.uk/post/a-room-with-a-view-2-nights-at-uags-bothy

The only one I've paddled to is Glencoul, which is possibly even better! https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=80193

Will now have to re-read your post to find out about the other pub!

Just got around to reading these - must have missed your Glencoul one the first time around. Looks absolute magic 8) Perhaps I should invest in a Canoe...and learn how to use it :lol: :lol:


Sgurr wrote:Just goes to show once More that you are far more intrepid than me. I was on the edge of my comfort zone climbing Beinn Dearg in the dry.

I don't think I'd have had the balls if I'd known beforehand what it would be like. I clearly need to start taking Malcy's "it'll be fine" with a pinch of salt :lol: :lol:
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