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Friday 12th July – Ratagan – Skye Cycle 72.51km
1187m ascent
4 hours 50 minutes
We actually arrived in Ratagan on Thursday night with plans to go to the bothy at Surdalan, but we were so late leaving that when we popped into the hostel to drop off our chicken for the next evening it was dinner time and J-Dawg was dishing out homemade lasagne. It would have been rude to refuse
The following morning we (or rather I) realised the consequences of our laziness – I’d have to cycle up the Ratagan pass
We left the tent up to dry off, dropped the car at the hostel and set off on the bikes. It was almost immediately uphill, initially relatively easily but it just got steeper and steeper
We did it – the top of the Ratagan pass
From here it was a delightful freewheel and the easiest 5km of cycling ever all the way down to Glenelg
From here it was a lovely cycle around the coast
We missed the ferry by mere seconds, but one of the people who had just got off said that they’d had to shoot because an ambulance was coming over
We had time for a quick cup of tea at the lighthouse before, sure enough, across came an ambulance, blue lights and all
Once the ambulance was clear we were able to board the ferry – it was all pretty exciting really
Beinn na Caillich and Sgurr na Coinnich – Skye
Across the ferry it was time for the 2nd horrendous climb of the day – no kidding
We were overtaken near the top by our friendly local ambulance on his way back
Looking back down
The views from the top were fantastic though – although the tops were in clag we could see the Red Cuillin
From there it was an easy descent to the A87 and quickly along to the Skye bridge (passed again my our friendly local ambulance driver) – I’d thought this would be a big climb but it felt really easy compared to what we’d done already
Looking back to the Skye bridge
We stopped in Kyle for a quick ice cream and Malcy needed to stock up on beer as he’d drunk most of his the night before
From here we cycled up the Plockton road before cutting back to Balnacara, then along the A87 to Dornie for a wee snack and a view of Eilean Donan.
Then it was up the Carr Brae hill – this was an optional hill but I could hardly let Malcy have the satisfaction of getting more ascent than me
A lovely speedy descent and a quick shoot around the A87 got us back to Ratagan, picking up the now dry tent on the way
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Saturday 13th July – Biod an Fhithich7.21km
632m ascent
3 hours 35 minutes
A relaxed start to the day was required as I was feeling pretty tired – actually more to do with the cycle than the late night; seems I’ve become a bit of a wuss in my old age
We drove the few miles down the road to the correct layby, crossed the road and headed up the familiar path to the Forcan ridge – Biod an Fhithich looking impressive
The path made gaining height easy and before long we had great views up the glen
Looking down the glen – the wee Sgurr an t-Searraich prominent
There were several people ahead of us and as we approached the top of the path we thought we might be catching up Bod and Val
At the bealach we could see across to the impressive Forcan Ridge – if the conditions held out we could always consider it
Reaching the bealach we turned right along the ridge which took us steeply uphill until we met Bod and Val. We stood around chatting for a while before realising we were all climbing the same hill anyway and should probably get on with it
At the summit we could see all the way down to Loch Duich
Sgurr na Sgine
Sgurr Mhic Bharraich
Summit of Biod an Fhithich
Glen Shiel
Loch Duich
Look, we have friends!
Bod and Val leading the way down
The Forcan was clouding in so we were less tempted to do something stupid and carried on down the path
Apparently this is an orchid
Looking back up to Biod an Fhithich
Heading down the hill – some lovely light on the hills
Glen Shiel
Not sure why he’s grumpy
Back at the cars, Bod and Val were heading for some dinner and we were off for a wee cycle before tea and the quiz
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Totaig Cycle15.6km
89m ascent
1 hour 5 minutes
It was a nice easy cycle down to Totaig where we took a wee wander along the track. Easier on the way back as we had the wind behind us
We were back in time for a cup of tea, a shower and some incredible dinner before storming to victory in the quiz in spectacular style
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Sunday 14th July – Am Bathach, Ciste Dubh & Aonach Mheadhoin17.13km
1694m ascent
8 hours 5 minutes
It was another lazy start – the sun was shining as we tidied up and left the youth hostel and drove the few miles up the road to the Cluanie. It was incredibly hot and we added suncream before heading off for a short distance along the road.
Loch Cluanie
We reached the usual parking area for these two hills, followed the fence along before picking up a good path upwards. It was steep going from the off
Looking back down to Loch Cluanie – the views opened out as we climbed
Sgurr an Fhuarail and Aonach Mheadhoin
It was a steep climb and hard going in the heat. Slowly, steadily we reached the ridge – although it was now much easier going we could see all the way to the summit
At the summit of Am Bathach we could see ahead to Ciste Dubh – and what an impressive hill it is
The ridge from Camban up to Sgurr a’ Bhealaich Dearg which I’d climbed up a year ago
Malcy enjoying the views
Summit of Am Bathach
I thought I'd do a bit of stretching to make sure everything was ok for going downhill. Turns out Malcy thought I was saluting the cairn
We descended Am Bathach towards the bealach – it was steep going
Crossing the bealach we met a guy sitting enjoying the sun – what a spot for it! As we started up Ciste Dubh we could see the back to where we had just come down
The Sgurr a’ Bhealaich Dearg ridge
We picked up a path which we followed steeply upwards – it led us into an awful lot of mud and squish but soon enough we were out of the worst of it and onto a better path
Aonach Mheadhoin
On the Ciste Dubh ridge the walking became easier and the views even better – I knew it was a good hill but never expected it to be this good
Beinn Fhada
The Five Sisters
We were now high enough to see Ben Nevis
We could now see the final climb to the summit of Ciste Dubh – wow
And finally at the summit the views were incredible in all directions – the 5 sisters
Summit
Looking back down the ridge
Beinn Fhada and A’ Ghlas Bheinn
Sgurr Gaorsaic and Sgurr nan Ceathramhnan
A’ Ghlas Bheinn with the Applecross corbetts behind
Skye visible behind some sisters
The Eastern Mullardoch hills
Malcy lay down and went to sleep (it was a bit warm and he’s quite old
) while I played with the big lens seeing as I’d accidentally carried it all the way up
Torridon
An Ruadh-Stac and Maol Chean Dearg
Ben Nevis
The whole Nevis ridge
Forcan ridge
Ladhar Bheinn
The South Shiel ridge looking fantastic in the sunshine
Altbeithe youth hostel
Mullardoch hills
Malcy finally woke up and it was time to get moving….the views down the ridge were incredible and we had a long way to go
Malcy wanted to climb up this ridge – I decided to pick my battles
Aonach Mheadhoin and Sgurr na Bhealaich Dearg
Malcy on his wee top
At the top of the steep section we cut off further right down a rocky spur
Ascent ahead
At the burn we refilled our water bottles before starting uphill – it was hot and we were tired
As the ridge narrowed we picked up a path which became more and more interesting and rocky. Looking back we were trying to gauge how much further we had to go
And then we were on the summit of Sgurr an Fhuarail – this ridge would be our route down later on
But first we had to get out to Aonach Mheadhoin (and back). Well, we didn’t have to but figured we may as well now we were here!
Torridon on the skyline
Sgurr a’ Bhealaich Dearg
Reaching Aonach Mheadhoin the views were incredible – and I was so excited to be sort of properly on a ridge for the first time in ages (injuries suck!)
South Shiel ridge
Brother number 2 – Sgurr a’ Bhealaich Dearg
Looking down Glen Shiel
We shared a Twirl and sat enjoying the views for a while. It had been a long day
Loch Cluanie
Aonach Mheadhoin summit
Ciste Dubh
South Shiel and Ben Nevis
A quick up and down brought us back to the top of Sgurr an Fhuarail
Mullach Fraoch Choire and A’ Chralaig
We headed down the ridge – it was steep but well pathed all the way – looking back
Ciste Dubh and Am Bathach
Am Bathach and A’ Chralaig
We managed to completely lose the path (well done Malcy
) but at least the steep lost us height quickly
Loch Cluanie
We did manage to find the path again but it couldn’t hide the fact that it was a brutal descent and a bit of a knee-cruncher
Looking at the Cluanie we decided that we had no intention of cooking and really really wanted food. Malcy reckoned he could get down for half 8 (a guess that they might serve food til then) so he took off at a heroic trot leaving me to take a slightly more careful pace
Fortunately they were still doing food (actually until 9.45 apparently!) so we enjoyed a wonderful meal before heading along the road back to the car and to whack the tent up (successful) to escape from the midges (unsuccessful
)
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Monday 15th July – Meall Dubh11.91km
690m ascent
4 hours
It was already roasting hot when we woke up – it was going to be another scorcher
We eventually had to risk the midges and got up. There were quite a lot of them so we chucked everything in the car and got going. There was barely a breath of wind in the air and it was already stifling when we parked up at the layby on the Invermoriston road
We suncreamed ourselves and set off up the windfarm track – Meall Dubh ahead
It was slow going and we were dripping with sweat even walking slowly – views down the glen to Beinn Loinne and Sgurr na Conbhairean & friends
The trees were sheltering us from any hope of a breeze
We passed the high point of the track and looked for a good spot to leave the track. It turned out to be a terrible point as we found ourselves bashing through terrible ground
And then across the burn where we refilled our water as we were melting already
We did pick up bits of path after the crossing which helped for a while – the huge cairn on the skyline marked our destination
The impressive crags of Beinn an Eoin
We lost the wee bits of path and ended up bashing through all sorts of rubbish ground - we were trying to avoid too much heather but just ended up faced with more
Finally we were on the last pull up to the summit – and a path! Which brought us to some fabulous views down to Loch Loyne and Loch Cluanie (and a wind farm
)
As we approached the summit cairn (not actually the summit) the sun decided to go in…typical
Beinn Loinne, Loch Cluanie and the many ridges of Kintail
Cairn climbing time
Gleouraich and Spidean Mialach
Meall Dubh summit
We were feeling very lazy and sat for a while, but due to the breeze (where was that when we were melting on the way up!) it was a bit chilly. And someone had a train to catch tonight so we headed back down, trying to stick to the ridge this time
Wind farm
We took a slightly less awkward route down (turns out we were never more than a few metres away from our outward route
) and were very relieved to meet the track again
As we dropped lower and lower the heat again became oppressive
Back at the car it was time to get the hot boots off (emptying a mountain’s worth of heather out!) and getting the windows open for the roasting drive home. A fabulous weekend, but who turned the sun on
