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Eigg - Finger of God, Sgorr an Fharaidh and Singing Sands

Eigg - Finger of God, Sgorr an Fharaidh and Singing Sands


Postby KatTai » Sun Jul 28, 2019 4:15 pm

Route description: Sgòrr an Fharaidh and the Finger of God

Date walked: 25/07/2019

Time taken: 6 hours

Distance: 20 km

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Thursday on Eigg looked like it was going to be a scorcher so it was an early start to get a walk in before the heat of the afternoon, hopefully getting back in time to catch the ferry to the mainland. The early start certainly paid off with a spectacular sunrise.

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sunrise


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The hills are on fire!


Following the track, we cut across to the old Manse to join the road across the island to Cleadale. It was cool and shaded and we made quick progress along the road taking just under an hour to reach Cleadale where we turned off just before the B&B onto a narrow, steep path heading up.

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There's a path there somewhere...


Grassy zig-zags made it a bit easier, but it was still steep going the route ahead hidden in the bracken guiding up us to a gap in the escarpment where we could climb through to the top looking back down onto Cleadale below.

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Looking down at Cleadale


Up here the path was mostly easy to follow. In some places there were two path options, one right at the edge of the and another a bit further away though these converged at points. We soon reached the Finger of God.

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The Finger of God


Continuing on we followed the mostly clear path, in some places it was faint and it crossed some boggy ground that was very wet after the previous days rain. In fact it was just generally boggy everywhere we went on the island! The path led towards the summit of Sgorr an Fharaidh, with views stretching across Eigg and over to Rum.

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Sgorr an Fharaidh


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Moss found a nice posing spot


On the other side were a pair of ravens who soon flew off as we followed the path along passing a trig point on the way as we headed towards Dunan Thalasgair where I had a brief glimpse of a Golden Eagle! Came and went too quick to get a photo. Closer to Dunan Thalasgair the same or a different eagle was spotted just going into a stoop down the escarpment.

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Trig point


I missed spotting the grassy descent track (too busy watching out for eagles), but soon realised and retraced my steps back to find it. As it had been going up, going down was steep the path hidden by heather in places, but it was aided by some zig zags that made it a bit easier. Down we headed, the Singing Sands below us following the path that headed across some boggy ground. I suspect at some point we should have maybe gone more to the left to get on the other side of the burn earlier as we ended up on a clear track but with water blocking our way and no way across it, or maybe there was just no easy way. I was in the right spot according to my GPS anyway. I decided to just try and head for the Singing Sands, cutting across towards a prominent rock a piece of wood providing a "bridge" across the burn. Following the burn whilst trying to stick to drier ground, we reached a fence and again roughly followed that while trying to avoid the boggiest areas. Eventually we reached a clear track that joined the route to the Singing Sands.

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Singing Sands


I wouldn't describe the noise of the sand as "singing". When Moss took off towards the water it sounded like she was wearing squeaky shoes :lol: She enjoyed a bit of the swim though some of the waves were pretty high, and then we explored the beach which had some fascinating rock formations carved by the water and some caves dripping with fresh water into pools.

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What are you doing down there?


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There were little cairns near to the caves, or if you are Moss, games of rock-jenga...I think those that disapprove of these being left may appreciate this :lol:

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What's this doing up here?


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Rolling stone...


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Aw,it fell off!


Moss played in the sand, sometimes making it squeak as she did so, and finding things to play with on the beach including some seaweed and a spade!

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Rolling in the sand


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Someone get the WD40...


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Happy now?


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Moss running off with the mermaids wig


She didn't want to let the spade go, but she did drop it at the stile as we were leaving the beach where there was a pile of already collected debris. Perhaps someone would return looking for it, though I doubt it, but hopefully if not someone was intending to come along with something to collect the other rubbish. At the time I hadn't known there was a bit to deposit rubbish found on the beach just along the road to Laig Bay where we could have taken the spade. So if you do collect some litter on the beach, there is actually somewhere to leave it.

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Mine...


We followed the path by the coast until it turned to pass through a gap in the wall the clear track leading round and...oh dear...right to a herd of cows and calves. The calves were in a line right across the track with the adult cows either side. The gate we wanted to reach was on the other side of this line of cows and there was no walking around them. There was just one option, we had to go through them. Sticking close to the corral I moved forward the calves showing little intention of moving but as we got closer they did stand slightly to the side to allow us passed. They started to follow them, but I told them "Away!" and held out my hand and they stopped. I was relieved to make it to the gate and out onto the road!

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Cows and calves (this was after we passed through them!)


We still had plenty of time to spare, so headed down to Laig Bay (which is when we found the bin for rubbish found on the beach, though this was overflowing) and had a walk along the beach there - no squeaky sand here!

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Leave only footprints...


Back up onto the road, we started heading back across the island. The taxi driver did very kindly stop to see if we needed a lift, and it was tempting! But we decided to just walk back checking out the old shop display on the way, the wee soap shop and stopping off at the standing stone where instead of having Moss posing for the camera I had a little lamb posing instead!

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Posing lamb


At the Manse we headed through the gate following the track back down to our tent. The ferry was arriving on Eigg for the first time, it was going to Muck before returning to Eigg again so we had plenty of time to take down the tent. Moss helped...

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All packed up we headed along to the pier. The cafe was busy with people that had came off the ferry and I had a chance to look around the craft shop before heading along the pier to sit in the shade and the quiet while waiting for the ferry to return.

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Ready to head home!


It was a great trip to Eigg, a beautiful island with lots to explore, a dog-friendly cafe, a place to charge a phone (or camera battery), a shop stocked with essentials, toilets, showers and a tap to refill bottles with water. And I have to say, I think I had the best company for the trip too :wink:

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KatTai
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Re: Eigg - Finger of God, Sgorr an Fharaidh and Singing Sand

Postby LoveWalking » Sun Jul 28, 2019 4:46 pm

Lovely report and some gorgeous photos.
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Re: Eigg - Finger of God, Sgorr an Fharaidh and Singing Sand

Postby Jaxter » Mon Jul 29, 2019 11:24 am

I love Eigg 8) 8) Fabulous photos :clap:
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Re: Eigg - Finger of God, Sgorr an Fharaidh and Singing Sand

Postby The Rodmiester » Mon Jul 29, 2019 1:53 pm

Good boy Moss, knock them all over.some lovely photos especially of Moss on the beach and on the ferry home.😀
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Re: Eigg - Finger of God, Sgorr an Fharaidh and Singing Sand

Postby KatTai » Mon Jul 29, 2019 6:15 pm

The Rodmiester wrote:Good boy Moss, knock them all over.some lovely photos especially of Moss on the beach and on the ferry home.😀


She does find knocking things over very entertaining, anything that looks knock-overable is fair game and these were definitely fair game :lol:
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KatTai
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Re: Eigg - Finger of God, Sgorr an Fharaidh and Singing Sand

Postby litljortindan » Wed Jul 31, 2019 8:16 pm

Did part of your route a while ago but missed out on the singing/squeaking sands. I thought Sgorr an Fharaidh was an excellent wee hill though. Brilliant photos of Moss, great company indeed by the looks of it.
Thanks for a reminder to go back to Eigg!
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Re: Eigg - Finger of God, Sgorr an Fharaidh and Singing Sand

Postby dylancoutts » Tue May 25, 2021 11:40 pm

Great report! Can I ask where you camped? Thank you.
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Re: Eigg - Finger of God, Sgorr an Fharaidh and Singing Sand

Postby KatTai » Wed May 26, 2021 10:37 am

dylancoutts wrote:Great report! Can I ask where you camped? Thank you.


There's a grassy 'wild' camping area a short walk north of the pier at Na Gurrabain where we camped :)
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