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Tuesday 20th July – Lochmaddy to South Uist
53.47km
257m ascent
3 hours 30 minutes
We had been watching the forecast for the Western Isles for a while and when a weather window of a couple of days synced up with Malcy’s holiday we chucked the bikes on the car and off we went – arriving at Uig I discovered it was much simpler travelling with bikes as we strapped on our stuff and rolled on
Cycle tour was a go
The weather was already incredible as we left Uig
The Cuillin
The Northern end of the Trotternish
After stocking up on calories (the Calmac mac n cheese is incredible) we enjoyed the last bit of the journey as we pulled into Lochmaddy on North Uist and tried to orientate myself on a new island – Ben Mhor (South Uist), Eaval and North & South Lee
Once off the ferry we topped up water at the terminal and off we went – a perfect evening of weather and lovely quiet island roads
Eaval
Skye Cuillin
As one would expect going south, we were into the wind but we had fresh legs and it was a gentle breeze (we hoped it kept up when we camped
) – the first causeway across to Benbecula was reached
At the south tip of Benbecula at Creagorry we stopped at the Coop for a Unicone (a recent discovery of an amazing icecream that only the Coop seem to stock). We had done 20 miles so it seemed justified
This is a classic case of mine’s bigger than yours
Although on this occasion, Malky to his credit has a much bigger load
Across the causeway to Beinn Mhor on South Uist
Hecla, Beinn Choradail and Beinn Mhor
We had identified a nice beach to camp at and headed down the Tobha Beag road until we found a spot
We set about pitching the tent and getting some hot chocolate on. As we’d had a big meal on the ferry we had a lazy dinner of sandwiches before watching the sun start to set
There were a few midges around but fortunately the breeze was relatively constant. To warm up we went for a wander along the beach
It was time for some cake and custard before setting in for the night
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Wednesday 31st July – South Uist to Barra
74.56km
773m ascent
4 hours 45 minutes
The next morning dawned – the tent very quickly turned into a greenhouse and we were forced to brave the midges outside. As is often the case the worst of them were in the sheltered tent door area and once we were out there were barely any
At one point we had thought to climb Beinn Mhor but I was concerned about the terrain setting off my knee as I was in trainers and without poles so we decided to cycle to Barra instead
Approaching Eriskay
After a quick stop for some tea at the café in West Kilbride (rather nicer than its namesake on the mainland
) we were across the causeway to Eriskay
Beinn Sciathain
1.91km
124m ascent
41 minutes
As the Barra ferry didn’t leave until 1 we had time to sneak up Beinn Sciathain, a wee lump of 185m
The ferry arriving
Malky leading the way
Looking over to South Uist
Causeway
20 minutes later we were on the summit
Dodging the bogs again, it was a quick trot back to the bikes for a nice roll down to the ferry
Ahead to Barra
“Barra is a bit hilly” warned Malky – for once I reckoned he had actually made it out to be more difficult than it was (or maybe I’m just getting fitter
)
The one big hill from Brevig was a bit of a stinker right enough, but the road was actually making life easier for us as we were using the top of the hill as a start point to nip up Sheaval (or Heaval on the map)
Sheaval2.29km
254m ascent
1 hour 20 minutes
We followed a couple of gates which led us onto a path, boggy in places but we were able to dodge the worst bits to stay dry. The views back to Castlebay were pretty good already
Malky decided to ignore the path after a while and headed straight up – steep ascent isn’t a problem for me anymore but we would definitely be taking the easier route down
Unfortunately as we reached the summit the cloud came in and we didn’t get any views
Typical
It was chilly up there and we did wait a while but the cloud seemed to be stuck…we did get some views back to Brevig as we dropped out the cloud though
The statue and Castlebay
We followed a steep but relatively decent path down and only had to dodge a few bogs on the way back to the bikes. From here we free-wheeled into Castlebay and stopped at the Coop for a unicone (as well as a couple of more important things like apples and pork pies
)
There’s a castle in the bay – hence Castlebay
As we were so close it seemed a shame not to visit Vatersay so we climbed up and over the hill (ouch) before crossing yet another causeway onto another new island
There’s a nice beach on Vatersay as well as a community centre with a café (although it had closed by the time we got there) as well as toilets and showers
After brewing up a hot chocolate we were back on the bikes to get back over the hill
Sheaval almost clear…
Malky looking tired
This is a gradient of 1 in 9 but it looks funny
Back on Barra we continued on our circuit – we were both feeling quite tired and hungry by now but it was worth a wee stop to put a call into Malky’s distant relatives on North Uist for the next day…
One more bit of a hill and we were back on the ferry road which we followed a bit further out to have a nosy at the airport – the only airport where the landing strip is actually a beach (tide currently in so no planes)
A short push of the bikes had us a cracking spot – the tent up and dinner on made us very happy
There was enough of a breeze to keep the beasties away all evening and we were able to relax. The next day was going to be a big one
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Thursday 1st August – Barra to North Uist
86.03km
543m ascent
5 hours 45 minutes
Fortunately we had a good sleep – a slightly lower temperature meant the tent was less of an oven – and we woke up refreshed to a beautiful morning
When you’re not quite sure if you pitched on a beach or an airport
A combination of breakfast and no midges made for a happy start to the day
Back on the bikes we passed the baggage reclaim at Barra airport
It was a few easy miles around to the ferry terminal where we had time for a quick cup of tea before hopping on the ferry – there were plenty of cyclists here, mostly doing the standard south to north route. The ferry journey was incredible – it was turning into an even better day
Looking back to Barra – of course Sheaval is clear now
Plenty of seals out and about enjoying the sunshine
Back on Eriskay but it could have been the Mediterranean
There was the small matter of the steep hill to climb over, although the views were definitely worth it….
Before basically a freewheel to the causeway (that’s Easabhal straight ahead)
Look, no feet
Caring for otters and stegosaurs alike
Back on South Uist Malky felt a burning desire to bag Easabhal so dumped his bike and ran off. I had decided that today was going to be long enough as it was
and headed along the coast a few miles to the West Kilbride café for a pot of tea
Looking back to Eriskay
An hour later sweaty mess Malky showed up with an extra Marilyn added to his count and, after finishing off my last cup of tea, dragged me back to my bike
It turns out that South Uist is long – like, really long. And when the wind has switched around and is blowing the wrong way it feels even longer
Fortunately the views were stunning – the impressive ridge of Beinn Mhor appearing
Hecla, Beinn Choradail and Beinn Mhor
Malky insisting that South Uist will end at some point
And it did – eventually we were on Benbecula and had a quick stop at the Coop for a few more provisions, although for some reason we forgot to have a unicone
In order to make it a bit different we went around the coast of Benbecula – apparently it was less hilly, but either way there were some lovely beaches along the way
After a quick stop at the airport café for some tea and cake (this one had an actual runway and was quite odd to see people walking around in suits
) gave us enough energy for a quick spin out to Flodda – a wee island off the East coast of Grimsay
Back on the main road we passed through Grimsay and onto North Uist – The Lees and Eaval looking lovely in the early evening light
From here the wind was starting to get really annoying and the road seemed endless but eventually we were at the Baleshare turn-off and after a quick spin out to the island….
….we arrived at Malky’s lovely relatives who very kindly gave us a shower, amazing food and a bed
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Friday 2nd August – North Uist to Harris
53.45km
420m ascent
3 hours 5 minutes
We had planned to cycle to Lochmaddy and head home either the previous day or certainly today, but following a check of the weather and much poring over maps we had a better idea! We fortunately thought to check the ferry times to find that they were altered because of the low tides, which actually worked out even better for us. We had had a great sleep and were treated to a huge breakfast before we were allowed to leave which set us up nicely
Finally on our way just before 11 we decided to follow the west coast of North Uist (again for a bit of variety) but we cut over the “Committee road” Rob had recommended to cut out a bit of brutal into the wind-ness
There were great views as we dropped down towards Solas
From here we were back into the wind
Traditional blackhouse
Harris in the distance
Beinn Mhor (North Uist)
2.71km
163m ascent
1 hour 5 minutes
We had plenty of time before the ferry so dumped the bikes and headed up Beinn Mhor (the North Uist one
) This is the sort of hill that would probably be a bit of a bog-trot after wet weather but the ground was beautifully dry for us and the views back were magic
Berneray and Harris
At the summit we could see across the whole of North Uist (apparently largely water!) to the Lees and Eaval
Summit of Beinn Mhor
A slightly heathery smash down saw us back at the bikes and heading off towards Berneray, past some wonderful beaches
Across the causeway we were on Berneray – we double-checked the ferry times before heading for some food (the Berneray Bistro is highly recommended) and a quick explore of the island
Berneray and Roinabhal on Harris in the distance
There’s a handy tap at the Berneray ferry terminal so we were able to replenish water supplies before getting on the ferry – again plenty of cyclists and some familiar faces. The ferry journey was stunning – the weather had got even hotter and we were wishing the suncream wasn’t downstairs on the bike
Ahead to Harris
Back to Berneray and North Uist
Although the distance across the Sound of Harris isn’t that far, the ferry took an hour as it has to take a really wiggly route through shallow water
Eventually we were on Harris (this had never really seemed like an option at the start
) and after a quick stop in Leverburgh for an icecream (no unicones sadly
) we were off up the big hill which didn’t actually seem so bad
A slightly drunk Ceapabhal above Northton
The wind had finally spun around and was behind us as Malky leads the way towards Scarista
THAT view from the Golf Course
Another short push of the bikes found us a stunning camp spot above the cliffs with views back to Ceapabhal
We were relatively early camping so settled in with a hot chocolate before getting dinner on
Malky catching up with Facebook
Looking north to Taransay and the big hills
Unfortunately the breeze wasn’t quite constant enough to keep the beasties away all the time and we had a few frantic moments as we struggled to get head nets on
But it was worth it for the stunning Harris sunset
Ceapabhal (my
summit camp spot back in April)
North
We enjoyed a last hot chocolate as the sun dipped behind Taransay
Malky contemplates life
It was time for bed – if possible the next day was to be even hotter
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Saturday – Harris to Tarbert (via Aird Asaig)
33.26km
379m ascent
2 hours 50 minutes
We woke up to another hot tent and although there were bits of breeze again the beasties were always lurking. We had a leisurely start and enjoyed sitting out for breakfast – we were always alert but soon the breeze picked up enough to allow us to enjoy the morning.
Finally packed up we took our time meandering along the road enjoying the best spots – this was my third trip to Harris this year so I was familiar with the places to stop. As for Malky, well he’s a (Harris) veteran
Across towards Luskentyre and the big hills
Seilebost and Beinn Dubh
It seemed a shame to leave the beaches so soon so dumped the bikes and wandered out for an early lunch on Seilebost beach
We could put off the big hill no longer – this is the one I’d been dreading
Tired legs weren’t massively impressed with the hill over to Tarbert but it wasn’t as bad as it had looked (except for coming around the corner and realising there’s more, over and over again
) but the views were worth it
From here it was a glorious descent down into Tarbert….until disaster struck when I hit a rock and got a flat tyre
It had to happen sometime and we’d been remarkably lucky up until now. Malky decided he could patch it…..half an hour and two patches later we just put a new tube on
An easy roll had us into Tarbert where we had a quick diversion to the toilets to wash our now very mucky hands (and I’d somehow managed to get grease down my legs too
)
Oooooh….let’s go there
Sgaoth Aird
10.92km
870m ascent
4 hours 40 minutes
The ferry we had decided to get wasn’t until 21.10 (and was already going to be delayed half an hour) so we decided to cycle a few miles further down the road and go up the Giolabhal Glas horseshoe, a walk I’d been eying up since my first visit
Malky hadn’t thought I’d go for it as it was steep and pathless but hey…if I buggered my knee coming off it was only 5km back to the ferry
We dumped the bikes near the Huisinish road turnoff and headed steeply up – the ground underfoot was pretty good; a bit heathery in places but enough grass and rocks to make it fine. And after a dry spell any wet sections were easily avoided. We gained height quickly
We dodged just to the right of these bad boys
It didn’t take us long to reach the ridge which made the going a little easier and gave us a bit of a breeze
Clisham and Mulla bho Dheas
I attacked a big rocky wall before the going got easier and less hands on – it felt good to be on a proper hill
Looking across to pointy Sgaoth Iosal, the last peak on the ridge
Back down the ridge to Loch a Siar
Uisneabhal Mor down to Huiseabhal Mor
The first peak – Gillaval Dubh – gave us views of the rest of the horseshoe
A lovely looking ridge-line
Down towards East Loch Tarbert
Look at those cliffs
A window to Clisham and Uisneabhal Mor
Views as we climbed towards Giolabhal Glas – the peak the horseshoe is named after (and where the trig sits) but not the highest point
From Giolabhal Glas we could see Tarbert below as well as out to Scalpay
Scalpay
North Skye
It was an annoyingly big drop between Giolabhal Glas the next peak, Beinn na Teanga
Past a wee lochan
The big hills
Balls…
There was nothing fast about this ascent, although it wasn’t as bad as it looked once we got on with it
Malky took a more straight-ahead approach where I zig-zagged a bit
Again, the views were worth it
Looking back
Ahead to Sgaoth Aird
Lochannan Lacasdail and Todun
We had a quick stop at the Bealach Garbh for a very melted chocolate bar before attacking the (almost) final ascent
Looking back
This ascent was far more gradual than the previous ones, so it felt like it was going on forever
Skye in the distance (not very clear on the wee camera)
Finally there we discovered that the summit was actually the worst viewpoint and stuck to the edges – Beinn Mhor on South Uist is visible in the distance with Eaval (N Uist) and Roineabhal (S Harris) in front
Storms brewing over Skye
Sron na Toistear and Todun
Loch Seaforth and Pairc
Closer to the biggies now
Figured we better visit the summit
It was still unbelievably hot
Sgoath Iosal – the final peak; not strictly necessary but it would be rude not to
Clisham
Looking back
I couldn’t get over how awesome Clisham looked from here – it had been super hazy when I was up there in April
From Sgaoth Iosal we could see straight down to the road and out to Pairc
Some impressive cliffs
Loch a Siar and the biggies
Clisham again (sorry!)
A windfarm (just for you, Fife Flyer
)
Giolabhal Glas
Loch a Siar
“Why don’t you go stand on there” said Malky
Should probably have given him my camera
We followed the nice grassy ridge along as far as we could until we hit the cliff of Sron a’ Sgaoth
From here we had a lot of height to lose and very little distance to do it in…not great for my knees
A combination of slow zigzags and careful route-finding got us down a steep section before Malky picked up a wee traverse which took us across to a better section and down onto the road which climbed so steeply up we were able to drop down onto it at about 100m
Looking back we could barely believe what we’d come down – dry feet and uninjured knees too
It was an easy walk back down the road to the bikes
Here we drained the last of the (very warm) water before the cycle back to Tarbert – we got as far as the Aird Asaig garage before we stopped for icecream
Back in Tarbert we dumped the bikes and covered up as the midges were about every time the breeze dropped
The ferry was still delayed so we had plenty of time to cook up the last of our noodles and sausage for dinner
It’s here!
Owing to an engine fault we were even more delayed which meant we were treated to a wonderful lightshow over Tarbert as we left Harris
The unfortunate downside of the late-running late ferry was arriving into Uig just before midnight and a three hour drive back to Inverness which got us home in the middle of the night. But I think we would both agree that it was a small price to pay for a fabulous trip
The stats for anyone interested - total cycle distance of 300.77km with 2372m ascent. Probably earned a day off